Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Idle Very Rough Like A Misfire
Jan 2, 2015
I got a 97 f150 4.2l from my neighbor. he takes good care of his vehicles. he sold it to me cuz it started to idle very rough like a misfire. it is hard to start when cold spits sputters and pops. once started idles like it wants to stall, then will idle normally then back to rough. back and forth like that. runs like a champ when going down the road . check engine light was on took it to auto store they checked codes . said bad o2 sensors so i changed them. still same issue. neighbor changed coil packs checked spark plugs and wire. every thing fires good. i changed iac. still didn't fix problem. could this be a bad egr valve or sensor? if so how can i diagnose this? he also thought was a clogged cat and bored it out. tight budget can't afford to take it to a mechanic. Was told spray carb cleaner spray around engine to check for leaks that did nothing at all...
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2000 5.4l lariat. My cylinder 1 for 2 years has been poping p0301code and has a rough idle at start for about 30 seconds. It also has a little white smoke for that 30seconds. new cop, new spark plug, new spark plug pig tail, swapped injectors to different cylinders multiple times to change code no luck. Compression dry and wet are at 200 and all cylinders are within10%. I had a dorman intake manifold installed 4 years ago and the code came a few years after. Im thinking intake manifold gasket is bad between cylinder 1 and the heater bypass tube allowing coolant to slowly leak down into the cylinder causing my rough start. I looked through the injector hole but could not tell. With all the info I have given is there any other places or things that it could be before I do a gasket replacement or is all my tests leading to the intake manifold gasket...
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My 2003 F150, 5.4L has been having some rough idle/misfires issues both at idle and under load.
I have fixed one big vacuum leak, replaced the PCV valve, new sparkplugs, seafoam and heet in the gas, replaced fuel filter, tested the fuel injector resistance. Coolant levels have not changed. The truck burns about a quart of oil every 1000 miles or so. The white exhaust is heavier than condensation, but it comes and goes. The rough idling comes and goes as well, and it usually happens under load and the CEL flashes.
The codes I get are random cylinders, po303, po308, po171, po174 were the most recent but there have been other cylinders as well. I clear the codes after each attempt to fix it and they come back different.
I notice that there is a small exhaust leak that drips water just behind the engine, and when I shut down the truck a lot of water will pour out of an area just behind the cab on the passenger side as well as out of the bottom of the muffler (small hole, looks drilled).
Usually the rough idle occurs after filling up the tank, but from different stations so I do not think it would be watery gas. I use Heet every fill up as well. Also, there is a sulfur smell after the rough idling occurs (catalytic converter?).
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Replaced the spark plugs and wires a couple months ago. Started skipping yesterday throwing the #4 misfire code so I replaced the coil pack, reset the check engine light but it's since came back on and has a rough idle and loss of power. By the way, it's a 97 F150 4.6L 4x4 with 200,000 miles.
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126000kms on 03 explorer 4.6 truck started. Running rough at idle and under load.... Code came up for cyl 8 injector. Replaced injector... problem still there. Switched cop and plug with another cyl and plug.... same code and cycl 8 is definitely not working. Would a generic problem always affect i cylinder. I even checked wire clip on for injector... it appears ok. There is power to injector wire clip.
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I'm working on my 99 f-150. I replaced all my spark plugs and coils after I got a misfire on cylinder 3 reading on the scanner. The truck was running ok but two weeks later it started to ride rough again I checked the scanner and got the same reading for a misfire on cylinder 3. Why its giving me the same misfire again? Could my injector cause that misfire? What about the egr valve?
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I have a 99 F150 Lariat 4x4 with a 5.4, 150,000 mile on it. About 2 weeks ago I blew spark plug out on #2, and a friend who said he has heli-coiled a bunch of these tried to do mine and ruined the head. Anyway, I called a local engine shop and got another PI head, only I used my cam in it. Torqued it as per the book, etc... Mind you that the engine ran perfect before all this.
Got it back together with all new plugs, new exhaust manifold, and 2 new COP's. When I start it-it runs rough for about a min, then straightens back out to run perfect again, and after a few seconds you can hear a solenoid click, then it goes back to missing again. This goes on and on... I went through all the vacuum lines and checked them, checked the egr valve, put on a new IAC, new PVC, cleaned the MAF, and checked everything else with a DVM.
I took it out and drove it.... Runs good for a minute, then it goes back to missing, then back to smooth again. This just keeps going on and on. I noticed when I hear that click, it sounds like a mad rush of air being sucked in, but I cannot locate it. I ordered a new set of COP's to try next. I can understand if it just plain missed all the time, but this it intermittent. Also, the only code I can get is a too lean on bank 1, so I replaced the 90's and the pvc valve. Now no codes but still in and out of missing. It ran perfect before the new head.
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Here is my situation : I have a F150 1999 4x4 ext cab with 326 000 km. A little while ago I got a P0401 code so I decide to clean the TB first and at the same time change plugs and wires since they were overdue. The same code came back and a misfire. Ordered EGR valve, DPFE sensor and selenoid. Realize that I had ordered crappy plugs by mistake. I change all plugs. Had to wait for the EGR valve and others to arrive. I drove the truck for a while since I did not have the time to change the valve and others, during that time the misfire did not come back. Yesterday I change the EGR and others. Today I get a truck that runs really rough and got new codes , P0305 and P0174. I'm really confused now on what should be my next step, should I change the coils, can a P0305 cause a P0174. Should I change vacuum hose going to the EGR , selenoid and DPFE.
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So my truck started to intermittently misfire about a month ago . I changed the spark plugs wires at first and it seemed to get better but it still had a misfire . I replaced the spark plugs and ignition coils and the misfire is still there . Up until the other day it was a noticeable issue but still drivable with . On my way home from work it got alot worse and started to misfire any time I tried to accelerate and now is noticeable at idle now as well.
I checked the fuel injectors resistance and they are about 14.8 ohms . I am not getting any codes for a misfire . I tried to pull the fuel injector connectors to try to find the source of the misfire but could noticeable change in engine rpm. Where to go from here and what I should check first? Would a clogged fuel filter cause something like this ?
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Ford F150 1999 5.4 XLT... I've had this truck since may 2013 from the 2nd owner who only drove it
occasionally to make sure it ran. For the last 5 weeks there have been two occasions where my service engine light appeared...once on 12/28/15 and again today. Both read cylinder 4 misfire. Upon searching this piece which I'm assuming is the boot that covers or houses the spark plug is very unsecure and causes a shaking feeling as I accelerate or idle. Being so far back I can't reach it with extensions on a ratchet and barely fit my hand back there. Having to consider taking it into a shop for further analysis and repair but I'm trying to save as much money as possible as I am in between jobs since mid January. I have a picture attached...
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My 2003 f150 5.4l has developed a slight stutter when I turn from a stop or go from reverse to drive or vise versa. I had thought it was the IAC so I replaced it but the issue is still there. There are no engine codes and it does not miss fire at idle or while driving. The problem appears to be happening only when the a/c is on. Could the belt be the cause?
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I just acquired a 2003 with 5.4 L. Did all new plugs and coils, cleaned MAF sensor, changed air filter, oil, transfluid and filter (obviously not related).
Upon start up and idle the truck has is rough, enough that it will vibrate the whole truck SLIGHTLY. Once in gear and warm, it smooths out and is fine. Unit the next stop and start.
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I bought this truck used and when it's in drive the engine idles rough and seems about to stall when the ac is on at a stop sign or red light.. I've tried it w/o the ac on and it seems a little better but not as smooth. Idle in park is fine.
When I should start looking? Spark-plugs? spark plugs wires, disturber cap, fuel filter etc...
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2000 Ford F150 1/2 ton 2x 5.4L... Last year, I started having a problem where when the temp dropped below 50 degrees outside, my F150 would idle really rough and sometimes stall out. The CEL came on and reported some codes that I don't remember but pointed to bad air/fuel mix. I consulted a friend and he suggested changing out the IAC. I did that just towards the end of the cold weather spell we were having and the engine ran great so I assumed it was fixed.
Well, the temps have been below 50 for 8 days now and ever since the temps dropped the problem has come back. I took it to AutoZone to have the codes read and they gave me the following:
P1151 - Lack of O2 switches -bank 2 sensor 1 : ECM could not adjust fuel trim because of a lean or rich condition
AND
P0171 - Fuel trim bank one condition : The powertrain control module uses the oxygen sensor to calculate the Air/Fuel ratio of the engine. The computer recognized a rich or lean condition on one engine bank only.
Both printouts that they gave me mentioned the following:
Poor fuel pressure
Bad or Malfunctioning MAF sensor - Dirty/defective
Oxygen sensor defective
Fuel injector problem - Leaking or fuel pressure high/low
Vacuum leak on engine
I again called my mechanic friend and he suggested cleaning the MAF and if that didn't work replacing the MAF. I cleaned it and the problem was better but still not fixed.
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I have a 2000 F-150 5.4 L. I was driving from home and seconds after the engine went into a rough idle that wouldn't let me accelerate. I scanned it and gave me multiple transmission trouble codes, about 15. I checked the wiring, the transmission fluid and it all looked good. So, what could be the problem?
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Bought the truck knowing it needed a little work because it sounded like a diesel when running. So I had the timing chain, tensioners, water pump, etc. replaced and that fixed that problem. Then, a couple days later, a spark plug blew out of the engine. So, I go to do a full tune-up to find out that 3 of the 8 cylinders already had heli-coils in them.
I pulled those three and bored out and re-tapped the cylinders using the Cal-Van inserts. This has worked beautifully so far. I also replaced all of the other plugs as well with double platinum plugs. I also replaced all COPs. This got the truck running again and it drives great. No loss of power whatsoever. It just runs like a dog at idle. As soon as I give it throttle it smooths out completely.
It seems like the problem gets worse as the engine starts to get up to normal operating temp. Basically, if I am idling, in gear or in park, the truck shakes pretty bad. It kind of feels like it's starved for fuel or barely missing. I do not have any codes though and if it is a miss, it is completely gone under throttle.
Other things I have replaced within the past couple of weeks:
EGR
EGR vacuum solenoid
DPFE
Both PCV elbows
PCV valve
Air filter
Harmonic balancer
Other things I have done:
Cleaned IAC
Cleaned throttle body butterfly (including EGR ports)
Checked TPS voltage
I'm sure there are other things that I am forgetting.
The idle seems low to me but I'm not sure what is considered standard for the 5.4l. Mine idles around 600 in park once engine is warm and the needle doesn't move despite the roughness felt. Just going by the tach, you would think that the idle was smooth as silk.
Truck info:
2000 Ford F-150 XLT
5.4L V8 2V
150k miles
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I recently picked up a 2wd 2002 F-150 with a 4.2l V6 that has just over 300k miles. The CEL is on and I'm getting P1131, P1151, P0316, P0305 and an occasional P0301. It has a very distinct misfire from around 1,000 rpm and smooths out between 1,500 & 2,000 rpm, the idle rpm occasionally bounces (sometimes enough to stall), and the idle is sometimes rough.
I have replaced the plugs, wires, fuelfilter, and replaced a leaking PCV hose. As I have changed things the symptoms have improved some but they are still there. While capturing some livedata it kept going out of CL and into OL Fault. When it would the idle quality was crap and the miss was much more significant. I would have to put it into D hold the brake and run the RPM's up to just over 1k to get it back into CL.
After I got done with the data stream at idle, I set the parking brake held the foot brake and put the truck in D then ran the rpm's up to around 1,200 & held it there. The truck stayed in CL but it would cycle between misfiring for 5 - 10 seconds then clear up and run smooth for 20 ' 30 seconds, every time it cycled there was an audible click that could be heard. Also, the AC was off the whole time.
Live DataStream @ Idle: CL
CalculatedLoad Value - 12.9- 14.1%
EngineCoolant Temp - 103degrees C
Short TermFuel Trim B1 - 32.8%
Long TermFuel Trim B1 - 0.0%
Short TermFuel Trim B2 - 32.8%
Long TermFuel Trim B2 - 0.0%
Engine RPM - 816 . 846
[Code] .....
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I bought a 99 f150 lariat 4x4 with the 5.4 from a guy who said that it needed an oil pump. He said it lost pressure coming into work, he turned it off and coasted in. I towed it home and replaced the battery and bought a new oil pressure sending unit just to be sure it wasn't that.
Those things are so hard to get to. Finally I got an oxygen sensor tool on it and it was only hand tight. Rather than take it off I just tightened it up and started the truck. The dash guage read normal but the truck was idling so badly. Steady at about 1000 rpm and tooth rattling. 1500 with the foot on the pedal it evens out but still rough. Not sure if this was a good idea but I took it around the block. No power under 2500 rpm. Barely moving even. Just felt like there was no throttle response at all and again very rough.
Got it home and parked it. Now I'm wondering what to do to fix the Idle and power problem. Where to start would be great. And input on the oil pressure sending unit too. I suppose I'll have to get under there and replace it at some point anyways.
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My daughter has a 2010 F150 with 5.4, when pulling her horse trailer or extended idling her truck starts running rough, so far her husband has changed the fuel pump and 2 coil packs, no luck.
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I recently inherited a 99 Expedition 5.4 with 90k miles. I'm trying to fix it up so I can sell it. Like the title states, the truck runs rough but there's no check engine light on. I did some research and ended up replacing the PCV elbow and that made it run better for a while but now it's back like it was. It won't die, just a really rough idle and a miss while driving. I imagine it's probably a (or a few) coil pack(s), but I have no way of knowing which one(s) to replace. I would think that would illuminate a CEL though. I'm also having problems with the AC. Upon inspection, I found that the compressor clutch assembly was completely gone from the front of the compressor. I replaced the whole clutch assembly, then voided the system of Freon and refilled it to spec, still no cold air. The compressor clicks on and off like it's low on Freon but it can't be. I'd just sell it as is but in south Louisiana a working AC is a huge selling point!
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I am having a problem with my 1997 f150 4.2 v6. The engine is running rough at idle and while driving. It's running so rough that it vibrates the entire cab of the truck. I found water in the oil when I was trying to fix the problem. I have since had the heads redone and replaced all of the gaskets thinking this was the reason for the rough idling and rough driving. It wasn't; doing this fixed the water in the oil but still I have the rough running engine at idle and driving.
I have replaced the EGR valve, plugs and wires, pcv valve, replaced the coil pack, fuel filter and air filter (everything has been replaced with ford recommended parts because I have read that the engine I have doesn't like after market parts). While driving the engine vibrates and sound as if it's going in a cycle in a rhythmic sort of way (like a washing machine goes in a cycle), best way I can explain it. I have come to the end of what I think it is?
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