Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: How To Straighten A Bent Hinge Post
Jun 18, 2012
My 2001 F-150 Super Cab got the driver's door bashed in. It bent in the rocker panel and I'm working on that but the bad thing is that the bottom of the hinge post is bent inward about 1 inch (kicks the top of the door WAY out). If you draw a line from the top hinge through the bottom hinge it should be about vertical but this one obviously isn't. I bent it out some using a couple of come-alongs and then ran a 2x4 through the passenger door to the back side of the thing and hit it with a sledge hammer.
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Any DIY way to straighten a bent front frame horn? The wreck pushed the driver's side horn about an inch towards the passenger door. The bend is right at the cross member.
Using a Porta Power hydraulic jack to push one of these? Not sure how I'd keep it from just bending the opposite, but can prolly figure that out. Just don't know if those are strong enough. I see 4ton and 10 ten models.
Otherwise, are there any other hillbilly methods for pushing or pulling?
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Totally stumped. Replaced the head gasket in Nissan 03 Sentra 3 months ago and car has been running great since with good power. Car suddenly completely dies after coming to a stop without any warning or any loud noises.
No compression in all cylinders. Seemed to be lots of oil in all four cylinders according to the bottom of the spark plugs. Pulled timing cover, timing marks still line up perfectly. Leak down test suggests valve problem.
Pulled the head and see all the exhaust valves are bent and the intakes are bent on pistons #1 and #3. (which is also odd as pistons #1 and #4 run in the same positioning) Question is how can all the exhaust valves suddenly get bent simultaneously with the timing chain still registering perfectly on the marks it's supposed to?
Things I've checked: I checked to see if the camshafts have sheared through the key, but they seem fine. No deep grooves found to indicate they slipped or anything.
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I just did head studs, gaskets, egr delete, oil cooler, hpop, up pipes, exhaust, and turbo rebuild on my 03' 6.0. I started the truck and it ran kind of rough but I figured it was air in the oil. Then I heard a choppy sound from the tailpipe and my first thought was bent pushrod. I let the truck run for a couple of minutes while I looked and listened to the engine and it seemed alright but I shut it down to pull valve covers. I had a code for cylinder 5 contrabalance so I started there.
The pushrod was definitely bent so I ordered one and threw it in. The truck runs amazing now compared to anytime I have ever heard it run, and all rockers move as it looks like they should but I still do have popping through the intake. I took cylinder 5 pushrod back out and I think the gasket bent from when the pushrod bent the first time. Even though the rocker is moving I think the bent gasket is pushing the pushrod on the side of the lifter maybe? The guide in the gasket is folded over and I don't know how the hell to bend it back besides a screwdriver.
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The steering on my Ex isn't working like it should. At times it feels loose when cruising then feels tight when straightening back out after a turn... the wander is really bad...
My PS fluid is also turning into a muddy brown goo every 5k... I changed the PS pump this summer with a supposedly good used one...
What should I be looking at/checking for?
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Got a 03 GTI VR6 and my drivers door kept on making this creaking/popping noise(it is very similar to the creaking noise of a old wooden door or the sound you hear in horror movies but for a lot shorter duration). The sound seems to come up when I accelerate, break take off from a complete stop. I took the car into the dealership and they torqed some bolt on the hinge and the creaking went away. Not a month later the passenger door develops the same creaking. The dealer tries to torqe the bolt on the hinge again and they say it cant be done and that their body shop needs to replace the hinge. They paint a hinge for me and put it on but don't get the door adjustments right so I get a lot of wind noise. Finally they adjust the door right and all is well.
A while later the drivers door starts creaking again! I went to another dealership and did an oil change while I was away on a trip to Toronto and the service technician said he could lubricate the door gasket and that this will take the creaking away. So he did. Now granted that has taken the creaking away but after some rain and 2 car washes the creaking came back in full swing.
I call the dealership to set up an appointment and they refuse to look at the door saying that as far as they are concerned the vehicle is up to manufacturers specs and that they will need to get a VW rep to look at it. In the mean time I call the vw customer care which tells me that they contacted the dealer and that the dealer beleves that the car is up to manufacturers specifications and that the noise I am hearing is normal and that all the cars have this noise.
Now I owned an 02 Golf GL 2dr and never heard that sound. It's been a month and a half and neither the dealer or vw customer care have called to inform me when the VW area rep. will be coming to have a look at the issue. It looks like I hit a dead end with having my issue acknowledged and looked at. Is this really a standard noise on the mk4 2dr platforms ? How I should pursue this issue ?!? Anything ?!
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I'm going on a slight curved highway at 70mph. If I let go of the steering wheel, the car maintains course following the curvature of the lane. The steering doesn't straighten itself out like doing a normal turn. Noticed this? Is this a "feature"?
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Went and changed my fuel filters today... Primed the truck 6 times. Started it. Ran great, then got a low fuel pressure and reduced power notification. Turned it off. tried priming it 10 more times, no start, tried 15 more times. No start. Took off the outlet on the secondary filter, solid flow. Took off the return on the L/H fuel rail, pinched the line and put a hose on the rail... Once again solid flow. I can hear air somewhere under the hood but I don't know where... Driving the 7.3 to work tomorrow but this is driving me up the wall.
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I have a 92 F150, 2 wd, 4.9L 6 cyl, 4 speed with OD, hydraulic clutch. Awhile back I noticed the clutch starting to slip. Eventually it was slipping so much that I took it in for repair. When I went to pick it up, the mechanic showed me that the clutch disc was in fair shape, but the throw-out fingers on the pressure plate diaphragm were bent inward. As I recall it was more of a rounded bend as apposed to a sharp bend. What could cause that to happen?
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I had an huge amount of work done to my 2004 Excursion (early model 6.0) earlier this year. ARP studs, new HPOP, ICP, IPR, Ford lifters, Ford push rods, EGR delete, Bulletproof remote oil cooler and filter, EBP sensor and tube, Ford head gaskets, and a bunch of other stuff including eventually a new FICM (not Ford) and a new 140 Amp alternator.
My problem is it sounds to me like some sort of metallic tapping is going on and it doesn't feel as smooth as I would expect -- like a very soft miss. Currently the tech says that there are no "low contributing cylinders". I am wondering if there may be a slightly bent push rod? He is adamant that a bent push rod won't stay where it is supposed to -- I say it depends on how bent it is. I am also worried that a rocker arm may be bent or deformed in some way.
My question is this; Once the valve covers come off -- if nothing looks wildly wrong, where do I begin to confirm that I do not have bent push rods or damaged rocker arms? He says that in order to check the push rods we would have to remove head bolts off of the rocker arms (I think I have that right). But he said we run the risk of compromising the head gaskets if we touch anything like that. If we have to remove head bolts (stud nuts for me?) can you take one rocker arm loose, check that rocker arm and push rod, and put it back together safely? Without having to pull it all the way down and put new head gaskets, etc? That would mean releasing the clamping pressure across both heads at each rocker arm -- is that creating the potential for blown head gaskets?
I know in my youth we would roll push rods on a sheet of glass (12" X 12") because glass is supposed to be flat -- can't bend it or deform it without breaking it first. I assume that still works. I now have a Scan Gauge II but it is not set up yet to check all of the readings for the sensors. I also believe I need to check for leaks with simple green and to make sure I don't have any exhaust leaks. But what about the push rod/rocker arm question? Is there another way to verify integrity?
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I bent my front bumper. Every time I look on amazon or ebay , when I put in my year, model, engine, it says their bumper won't fit. Mine has the 3 rectangular openings, 2 have the holes for mounting and tow hooks. It is chrome with the gray plastic or rubber bottom.Xlt. Also what part is the valance?
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I've put about 500 miles on my new to me 06 F250 4x4, CC, SB, V-10. One thing that is slightly annoying is the shifter position in R, L, 1 and 2. Shifter is against my knee in those positions. Re bent the shifter to place the more to the right? I have buckets with a console so I don't need to worry about a center passenger's legs. I have plenty of benders and metal working tools at my disposal, just asking for some guidance.
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I spent the day with a buddy working on his 91 ranger 4 cylinder 2WD truck because the clutch master cylinder shaft that connects to the pedal bent. We took the old part out and replaced it, but now we are having problems with the little pin that holds the line from the slave cylinder to the master cylinder in place. For some reason, even though the line is securely in position and wont budge with the pin in, it still leaks so we are unable to bleed the clutch.
I have looked all around the internet, including this site and wasn't able to come up with any explanation as to why the line is leaking, perhaps it is because the line isn't pushed in far enough, but like I said, it is securely in place and I wasn't able to push it in farther before forcing the pin into place. My buddy and I spent about 9 hours working on his truck today, including probably 3 or 4 just on trying to stop the leak.
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I need to do the doors on my work van..Is there a hinge pin kit that works?
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I hit a Turkey running across a back country road the other day . Never took flight. Shortly after that I lost my AC. I took a quick look at the front of the truck and saw no damage. The next day I found the grill lower chrome bar cracked and the AC condenser bent and leaking.
I had to replace those items plus the plastic support frame that all the chrome pieces are attached to. And recharge the AC. Hard to imagine the damage done since I could not stick 2 fingers thru the support grating. Been looking at Grill Guards but not thrilled with the look .
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Just bought a 2006 f150, the tailgate hinge seems to be rusted to the cup(drivers side). Any tips for repairing/ getting it freed up?
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New to the jetta (used to own Saabs so not new to issues) OK, 2003 jetta 2.0 CEL is on for the CAM Post sensor. Car is in limp mode. has been for a while before I touched the car. I have replaced the Cam post sensor, I replaced the Crank Post sensor, replaced the coil pack, replaced the water pump and the timing belt. I have searched a lot of the other threads before posting this one. Triple checked the timing (3 people did not just me) I replace all the other stuff because I had codes the water pump and the timing belt just because they were due. i had one last code P0343 so when i replaced the WP and the TB i replaced the sensor. Still in limp mode, still have the code i pulled the plug on the Cam post sensor. then i said to my self this car should NOT start. but it did start and i drove it around a little, shut it down and car started up again so I am at a complete loss.
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I've got a 91 prizm where on a recent roadtrip the transmission went out on the freeway. While driving 75mph, i heard a quick ping sound, then a quick wheel skip followed by the sound of my transmission turning itself into gravel. We had just enough time to get off to the side, but i knew it was done.
I live in San Francisco and don't feel like getting a new car only to get it covered in dings from all the bad drivers around here. So naturally i replaced the transmission in my 22 year old car. yikes. It needs to be stated at this point that the car has run flawlessly it's entire lifetime and I'm the original owner - had no reason to expect otherwise after replacing the transmission.
The shop that changed it was a large shop, AAA recommended and Owner-operated. They told me the transmission was from a car from Japan where transmission replacement is standard. (I did not know this).
Now however, the car has a misfire. No perceivable misfire for the first two minutes she's running, but then constantly misfiring every couple seconds. At stop lights, you can feel the car almost want to stop, but then step on the gas and runs ok, but can still feel the misfire until she gets up to speed. The car runs just a smudge rougher so we believe it's still misfires while at speed, just not noticeable.
Timing belt only has 10,000 miles.
Timing is dead on.
Wires are good, just changed the distributor, coil and plugs. As i understand it, the throttle position sensor is integral to the distributor, so that's new as well.
Fuel pressure is right on.
No warning lights on dash.
At this point, I can't keep throwing money at her. The transmission was 5-6 months of a car payment for a new car. Would there be a reason that the car would have a misfire after getting the transmission replaced?
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I have an 08 escape. The drivers side rear window hinge has rotted out and the glass is dropping down. I need to replace this hinge asap. Looking for the right place to get the correct replacement hinge?
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After the years and 300k miles, the door hinge on the driver side door are getting some play. I wonder if i can replace just the pin on this hinge or the whole thing needs to be replaced. By the way, I am talking about a 00' F450 ...
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I just changed my oil in my mk4 jetta 1.8L and after draining the oil, changing filer, and adding new oil, the car will not move in drive or reverse. Once I give it gas it will move but that's at the higher rpms. I am almost positive I didn't remove the transmission oil but I am just not sure.
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