Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Hole In Driver Side Header
Dec 23, 2014
So I have a 97 f150 with a 4.2. the driver side header has a hole in it. Any tip or trick on pulling that bad boy off without busting the studs? ow ya she has 352k on her, I am guessing those nuts wont want to move...
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Before i bought this car i thought a vw nut owned the car but now i'm certain. when i lowered it the other weekend i learned some things.
-k&w shocks in the rear
-frame notch up front with brackets welded inside the wheel arch to hang air lines
-a nice little hole in my driver side glove box where the height controller was probably mounted
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So wifey ran over a metal something... It bent the front left rim (fixed already) and it also made a hole in the undercover and the now there's this buldge on the driver side floor board. Been trying to find a way to patch it up and is it smart to just hammer the buldge back down?
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I was changing the vct solenoid on the driver side and I dropped a 3-4" Allen wrench inside the hole. I tool the valve cover off and can't see much down inside. Its not to the right by the cams, I think it fell down in front by the timing chains but I can't see it caught on a chain or anywhere. I drained the oil and took the filter off and looked in the oil pan with a snake camera, no luck.
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Having an issue with my 97 f150 its a 4x4 with 4.6L engine the issue is my driver side window keeps going down by itself. I changed the switch and relay for the power windows and still doing same thing?
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I have a 97 expedition It started a month ago crossing the border, I stopped at customs booth drivers side window would not go down. During the next couple of days the drivers side window would go down by itself, and I would have to bring the window back up. I have done alot of research on line everyone was telling me it was the GEM Module.
The window switch is good and the window regulator is good. Brought to my neighborhood mechanic, he said he was 90% sure that it was the GEM Module, he even said that he was tapping on the GEM Module and the window would go down on it's own. I decided to order a GEM Module online to fit my vehicle, received it on Saturday, installed it. [found no moisture around module] Same Problem, window would not go down. Now I have the drivers side motor unplugged from the switch.
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Okay so I was getting the misfire in cylinder 3 so I pulled the plug out and it had coolant in it. Does that mean it needs a new intake manifold gasket? That is what the guy told me at the parts store. Also can I drive it like this or will it damage the engine?
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1998 f150 4x4 the drivers window is stuck up. It clicks by the up button but not the down button. The pass window works fine by both buttons, the door locks work fine. Took out the switch it tests with a ohm meter fine. The switch has power to it. I took out the window motor jumpered it to the battery and it works in both directions. Manually ran the window up and down and it moves freely. I swapped the relays under the dash and everything operates the same. I'm not sure where to go next for trouble shooting this problem.
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So I went to the movies the other night and come back out to see that my truck was broken into. Nothing was taken, so what were they doing? Any ways they broke the keyhole on the drivers side. It has been pushed all the way into the door. Assuming I have to replace this, how much or what will be involved to do so?
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I have a 2000 f150 4.6 that would not run on bank2 ( the drivers side), even though the injectors and coils are all firing.While I was troubleshooting the problem I notice if you unplug the camshaft sensor and restart the truck it would then run on bank2, but the idle is rough.Can the PCM be the problem here. The only dtc codes are p1000, there are no misfire code at all, and it dose not show a misfire on the scantool data so I am lost.
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Suppose a puncture hole were to inadvertently appear in the bottom of my gas tank? What would be some good ways to plug the hole? I'm thinking a fine thread stainless steel flat head screw that was screwed into a tapped hole with special glue/sealant and a washer would probably work.
You're probably catching on now... A non electric drill would probably be best to drill into the bottom of a full gas tank but all I have presently are battery powered and 100volt drills.
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Found a related thread but ....a year later and no update? [URL] .....
Anyhow, today my 97 F150 XLT became possessed and the DS window started coming down by itself at random. Make for an exciting ride when the weather is in the teens!
My first thought was the wires at the door but it's been too cold to dig into it today. Will look when it warms up a bit. I need to pull out the manuals but don't think the PW should go through the GEM?
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I have a 2002 F-150 SC and the drivers side window quit working yesterday. All the other windows work fine and I can't see where anything else is not working. The only other thing that quit prior to this window problem was the cruise control quit a while back.
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Everything was fine with my 2000 F-150 until a few weeks ago when I went to open the driver's side pocket door and it would not open. Felt like the latch was releasing but would not open. I went around to the passenger's side pocket door to open it: SAME PROBLEM! This makes no sense; these two doors had worked fine, they operate independently, and I have confirmed with Ford dealers that there is no safety lock feature that may have been activated. Of course, the only remaining options appear to me either my tearing the doors apart, or worse yet paying someone else for the privilege.
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I've got a 1997 F-250 that as soon as you put it in gear to go forward, the doors lock as is the norm on these "new" vehicles. My complaint is that when you stop an get out, the drivers side unlocks, BUT the passenger side doesn't. THEN invariably I go around to get something out of the passenger side and its LOCKED. That's when my blood pressure goes into orbit. A trip to my dealer yielded no cigar. He stated that some models could be tricked into unlocking, but not this one.
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I'm trying to figure out why my truck sits about an 1 1/4" lower on the driver's side. I went around with a tape measure and checked and both the front and back of the truck sit lower than the passenger side. I actually can feel it when driving, feels like it wants to tip over when I'm turning right. Could it just be worn shocks? What else should I look for? All four tires have the same pressure in them also.
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I have a 97 f150 4.6 and I recently noticed a lot of tranny fluid behind my driver side tire. It looks like its a line coming from just underneath my radiator. What line this could be/how to replace? I was hold it was my tranny coolant line I believe but I can't remember..
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The drivers side power window in my truck is up and will not lower.
I took off the interior/trim panels. Accessed the power connector for the window motor.
I can hear the relay cycling. when I put a meter on the power connector, I get voltage applied for the "up" condition, no voltage for the "down" function.
Sounds like a bad relay to me. What say the wizards? Where is the relay located?
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The drivers side power window in my truck is up and will not lower. I took off the interior/trim panels. Accessed the power connector for the window motor.
I can hear the relay cycling. when I put a meter on the power connector, I get voltage applied for the "up" condition, no voltage for the "down" function.
Sounds like a bad relay to me. What say the wizards? Where is the relay located?
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I don't know what to try next. I have a short somewhere, just don't know how to track it down. I checked the fuse for the drivers seat and it was blown. I stuck a new one in and the thing blew as soon as I stuck it in. I disconnected the seat motors, plugged in a fuse and it blew again as soon as I stuck it in. How to track this down?
I don't see any worn or shorted wires under the seat. I checked under the passenger side kick panel per another post I found, but that looks fine. I don't know where to look or what to test.
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I had my front driver side wheel bearing blow on me, out of nowhere, while doing about 70mph on my '03 Supercrew 2wd. it really destroyed my spindle and rotor. i replaced everything from the spindle out (rotor,pad,caliper,caliper mounts, bearings,etc). I packed the bearing really good and put it all back together. Well, it happened again, same thing. Doing about 70 and it just blew out of nowhere. Why it could be happening??
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