Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: High Pitched Backfire In Engine Compartment And Trans Not Shifting
Sep 11, 2012
1991, F-250, automatic, 150,000 miles, two tanks. Used mostly for towing an RV plus some pleasure. Not in daily use. A month ago I parked it and a few days later cranked it up and found it wouldn't run over thirty MPH. There was some high pitched backfire in the engine compartment and the trans. wouldn't shift. I parked it and the next day it wouldn't start. When I turned the key on the fuel pumps (either tank) ran continuously. Towed to a garage (I am not a Mechanic). They have replaced the fuel pressure control, checked all pressures and it still won't run right. The problem is intermittent. My tranny man said the trans was good. My mechanics don't know what to do. I bought it in 1998.
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I just bought a 2006 F150 SuperCrew with a 5.4L engine and since the weather has turned cold, I've noticed an intermittent high pitched squeal coming from the engine compartment. I've replaced the serpentine belt and the idler pulley plus another belt pulley but none of the above worked.
I've also had two separate mechanics look at the problem and both are at a loss as to what could be causing the noise. The guess is maybe its an air leak coming from either the intake or vacuum lines. But nobody is really sure.
The noise seems to really become noticeable when the temperature gets below 20 degrees and around 2000 rpms, but sometimes it happens at other times. Where this extremely annoying sound might be coming from?
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Need to determine the cause of a strange high-pitched squealing noise coming from the engine compartment of my 2008 Subaru Outback 2.5l automatic. The squeal happens only when the temperature is cold (below 32 degrees) AND I hit a bump. It happens more often the colder it is outside. The noise is definitely coming from the front of the car and seems like the passenger side but I can't be sure. It happens with the blower fan/AC both on and off so I don't think it is caused by that. It happens when the car is cold or driven for a while and warmed up.
It occurs at both high & low speeds. I checked all my fluids under the hood and everything is filled as it should be. There are no lights (check engine or ABS) on. Recommend any troubleshooting that I can try? I have not taken it to a mechanic yet as they might have a hard time reproducing the noise since it has to be below freezing and hit a decent bump. I attach a video that I took while driving last week on a 16 degree day and heard the squeal when I hit a bump. I had been driving for about 30 min when it occurred. I have more videos of the noise if needed.
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I've been having some issues with the way my car is running today. Drove to the store, and he was fine. On the way home, he hit 4rpm and then dropped extremely fast. Then I stopped at a red light.. I went to go, hit maybe 2.5 rpm and it made this high pitched squeak and shifted really hard. I made it home fine after that, and no lights are coming on. I just changed my spark plugs not even a month ago.
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I bought a 1997 f150 with 160l miles on it. It is a 4x4 with the 5.4 v automatic. While I'm drive and in 4th and 5th gear, the tranny shakes the whole truck and then shifts hard! I check the fluid and it's still good and red but looks like there is to much. I'm planning on removing some and adding some lucus additive in it. What could cause this???
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My excursion's trans is slipping on the 25hp tune up high in the RPM band and shutters when up shifting. I have dropped to stock most of the time, but I know i am on borrowed time.
I had a JW trans in my e99, and there is no question on the durability and performance of the transmission. The price has gone up a lot, but that's maybe not the big issue.
I live in the mountains and spend a lot of time pulling and just driving in that 40 to 60 mph range over mountain passes. That is basically where I spend ALL of my time.
The distance between 3rd and 4th is driving me CRAZY! I have researched everything from swapping to a manual, to PCS controllers, to trying 4.11 gears, to overdrive units.
Swapping Manual: ZF6 is the obvious candidate, but I have read the swap is not probably something I have the skills or tools to do. I have also read that the performance of the ZF6 is sub par. But it seems like it would give me my 3.5 gear that I am looking for.
PCS Controller: Looks cool for a way to have control besides using the tree shift. Maybe a compromise on not swapping in a manual.
4.11 Gears: I get pretty excited thinking about the low end torque etc. I go off road almost every week, and like I said, I hardly go over 75 mph. But once in a while I do. Right now, the truck turns about 2300- 2500 rpm at interstate cruising speed. Looking for 4.10s rpm in that range to compare? Also, how bad of a fuel economy hit would I take? What is the cruising rpm of 4.10's between 60 and 65 mph, or in general what is the rpm change?
Overdrive Unit: I have always been interested in more gears, but I read about someone who installed one behind a 7.3 and didn't have they great of results. To the point where he said it wasn't worth it.
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My car recently started running overtemp not much, but enough to bother me. I flushed the system with no change. after about a week with continued symptoms, my trans started shifting hard between 1st to 2nd and 2nd to 3rd, and running rough in general, sputtering lightly in high gear. I assumed it was running over temp with the rest of the car, so I replaced the radiator and the radiator cap, yet still am having the same problem. Is it still related to the cooling system? if I replace the water pump will i solve my problems, or is it really a hidden trans problem? I'm fairly certain the trans has never been serviced, and I'm reluctant to do so given the high milage, 174,000. The fluid is full, but its very thin, and no longer red, its sort of a pale yellow.
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I have a '98 F150 4.2l with 230k miles on it. A couple of days ago when starting, I noticed that the engine kept racing instead of idling down like it normally does and the weather here in Arkansas has approached the 80 degree mark. The engine also doesn't idle down when shifting (I have a manual tranny). Where to start? I don't have any codes stored other than two for bank 1 and bank 2 running lean but they popped up many miles ago. I'm thinking either a vacuum leak or throttle control. I checked the operation of the cable and the throttle valve and they appear to be fine. Maybe the idle air control?
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My neighbor's 2000 5.4L F150 caught fire under the hood last night while parked in his driveway nosed up to the garage door. I wasn't home at the time so didn't see it 'til this morning; at first I thought the hood had blown off but then realized it had MELTED! He was inside at the time, heard a soft "WHUMP", went outside to find his truck on fire and called 9-1-1. The small windows in the garage door are gone (blown out?), and the garage door and gable all the way to the peak are scorched. His 'Toon parked next to the truck ain't looking real good either.
Awhile back, seems like there was a problem with Cruise Control switches on master cylinders causing fires; anyone have any info on this and if true, what FoMoCo did about it?
The fire dept. is supposed to tow his truck to where-ever an investigation can be done, but who knows how long that will take or if a valid cause will ever be found.
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Parked my Honda Civic (1997 stick shift) in driveway at a slight forward downward slant. Two days later it wouldn't start: dash lights come on, get high pitched noises from engine but no start. Tried for 2 days, same results. Ambient temp is in 60's. Had routine service 2 weeks ago and it was running fine.
Tow truck driver tried it, got same results. Had it towed a mile to mechanic (front end elevated while towing). Mechanic called to say it started on first try for him but seemed to be running rough. He checked it over and now has come up with 2 or 3 things it may be but isn't really sure.
Mechanic Is going to replace the ECP (?) to start with but is going to be going at it one part at a time.
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So my girlfriends Toyota RAV4 (2005) is making a medium pitched whirring noise from the passenger side of the engine compartment. (Same area where the serpentine belt and the alternator and all those goods are located.) The battery warning light is on, solid. I have not had a chance to take my DMM and check voltage but I suspect this is going to be a bad alternator since it is a noise consistent with the RPM of the vehicle and visual inspection of the belt is that it is still in one piece, not frayed, flexible, etc. I didn't rev the engine because I didn't want to freak her (the gf) out. My plan is to test voltage before she does anything rash like take it to the dealership which she is already planning on doing but the noise concerns me since noises tend to come from things that move which is probably an indication of some sort of mechanical failure and that tends to cost money. Luckily it's her car.
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I have a 2001 f150 5.4 with 200,900 miles. Just bought the truck about six months ago off my dad when he got a new one. I am now experiencing what seems to be a slight misfire. With the hood up pulling the throttle around 2200 rpm starts making a loud knock. Above that rpm nothing and below that nothing. Standing by the tailpipe it sounds like a small backfire. It Idles really rough and when you get that sound out of the tailpipe it jumps like its hiccuping. And tailpipe is vibrating quite a bit.
Things I have done in the past month include replacing the pcv valve, changing spark plugs, cleaning throttle body, cleaning MAF, took down exhaust to check cats because i was experiencing a power loss and bogging. When the exhaust was off i punched the two rear cats. I ran a bottle of iso heat in the gas. Everything seems to have supported the power problem but now less than a week later i am starting to experience the knock and backfire type sounds.
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OK; I give up. How do I check the trans. fluid level on my 2010 F150 6 spd. auto trans????? I see that there is NOT a dipstick in the engine compartment.
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My daughter bought this truck about 6 months ago. This morning a driver cut her off, then hit his breaks. She had to make a panic stop. When she went to take off again, 1st and 2nd was no problem. When she shifted into 3rd, the engine just revved.
She tried to shift back into 2nd, but it wouldn't go into 2nd. She pulled over and now it won't go into any gear. The shifter lever won't even go over far enough to go into 4th, 5th, or reverse. I doubt the panic stop had anything to with it, but thought I'd throw it out there, just because.
Okay here's the truck: 1997 F150, 4x4, base model, short bed, 4.6L, 5 speed manual, manual transfer case, 190k miles. Truck has been beaten and abused badly, but is basically mechanically sound.
Here's what I've done so far. Checked the fluid, it was fine. Pulled the top cover and shifter lever out. I don't have a clue what I was looking for in there, but I hoped to see something obvious. I didn't.
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2001 F150 5.4 v8 ... In the past few months my truck has been a bit strange, but in the past few weeks it's gotten to the point I'm nervous to drive it. Usually when shifting around 30-35, the engine revs up and stops accelerating and I have to take my foot off the pedal to make it return to normal. It doesn't do this after I do that, but the past time I tried to drive I couldn't get above 35 and the rpm was in the upper 2000s going at a constant 35. When I stop for any reason such as making a turn, when it shifts it lurches forward and I hear a loud clunk.
Naturally, I've checked all the fluids and fuses and they're all fine. The mechanic I regularly visit insists that nothing is wrong with it.
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I just got my truck back from the tranny shop 3 days ago,was driving down the hiway looked down and my speedo went from 65 to 0 instantly. it was driving fine till i exited then started reving and not shifting till about 3000 rpms. So i changed the sensor on the rear end and the vss on the transfer case but no results.
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I have a 1997 Honda Civic w/ about 150k miles on it. The belt was changed a little under 2 yrs ago. Just started making a high-pitched sound when backing up. Sounds like a note on a flute, and doesn't sound like grinding. It only happens when backing up. As soon as I stop, shift and go forward the sound goes away. Began 2-days ago. I try to find parking spaces where I don't have to back up.
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97 Sierra K1500, 5.7 liter. High pitched whistling sound underhood in the vicinity of the throttle body. Starts after truck warms up and quiets down when accelerating. I've wiggled hoses, disconnected what I could without stalling engine, checked air lines into throttle body, checked air filter, etc. Sound does not change when I apply brakes so I don't think it's related to master cylinder. The only time it changes is when I accelerate, then only gets quiet until I come back to steady speed.
Truck has 85,000, runs great. No codes.
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I just wrapped up a full day's worth of tear down/reassembly chasing an oil leak at the turbo pedestal. while I had the turbo out I replaced the pedestal with a non-ebpv pedestal and replaced the outlet with a high flow outlet. I also removed the stock exhaust and replaced it with a 4" Turbo Back from MRPB. Once I got everything put back together I hit the highway to check out the new exhaust.
To my horror I started to hear a high pitched airhorn-like sound while accelerating. It sounds a lot like an old police siren... I'm wondering if this sounds like a turbo or simply a boost leak. I obviously had everything taken apart so a boost leak seems likely (still original boots with 191,000 miles). I've ordered new boots from RiffRaff but wanted to make sure it didn't sound like an exploding turbo and that I could safely drive it until I can fix the old boots.
Take a look (listen) at the video : [URL] ....
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I read another blog on here about stratus not shifting and decided to ask someone about my limp mode problem. A few months ago I was driving uphill when it jerked before it got into limp mode. I thought maybe the hot weather caused it(it was 95 deg). I let it sit overnight. and the next day car was fine. for about 3-4 months. Now it got into limp mode only after it goes through all the gears once only. When i come to a stop it will go into limp again. Got a 0700 and 0760 codes. My speedometer works. tach works. Basically everything works as it should.
I decided to change the ATF and filter, both speed sensors and i get the same old codes after a drive around the block. I then decided to remove the neg terminal overnight. Next day I would have no signal at the data link port. When i removed the key from the ignition my dash lights for the mileage will stay on for another 3-4 seconds before disappearing. I checked the ground wires to the PCM and TCM which are good. Fuses and relays are also good. I even swapped some of them. Still no change. 1997 stratus 2.4 auto...
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So I put in new clutch yesterday. Reverse works, granny works, 3,4,5 work. ZF6 manual. But when I try to go 1st or 2nd. Its as if the truck is in neutral....what should I be looking for. I bought the truck having only knowing the clutch was completely shot, was not told about this 1&2 gear issue....
Do I need to pull the trans out again... or is there something I can see or adjust, because from what i can see where the shifter connects there is no adjustments. Is it probably a gear selector fork...or connection that took a crap. when moving in granny gear i did not hear any irregular noises....
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