Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Hesitation On Accelerating For A Couple Of Seconds Before RPMs Pick Up
Nov 1, 2015
00 XLT 4.6 4x4 135k miles - New problem, on accelerating, truck hesitates for a couple of seconds before rpm's pick up. There is no stumble or bogging. It feels like I'm not giving it any throttle at all. And then it kicks in and takes off. It does this from a stop at idle, or at a steady cruise. Its an intermittent problem. No CEL. Air filter and fuel filter are about 3 months old. Haven't done any work to it since. Also, when there is less than a 1/4 tank of fuel, truck sometimes stumbles slightly off idle. Fuel pump starting to go?
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I have a 1997 Saturn, and have noticed for the past couple of months that when the car is idling at a stoplight, the engine seems to rev or almost skip a little bit. The RPMs go from about 1000 down to 500 for a couple of seconds, and this will happen once every 10 seconds or so. Otherwise, it runs fine...but this is happening more and more frequently than it used to.
I had the transmission rebuilt over the summer and its still under warranty. What might be causing this?
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Summary of Events:
Lower radiator hose decided to disconnect itself.
Stopped and had car towed home.
Connected hose and filled coolant system.
Car is hesitant to start and takes a couple seconds of cranking.
Misfires in cylinder 3, and a few in cylinder 5, no other codes.
New OEM plugs, no change.
Swapped coil packs around, no change.
Idle is rough but at speed, everything is smooth.
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I have a 2002 F150 5.4 2 valve. only when the engine is cold, everyone once in a while the engine will surge up and down about 2-300 RPMs for about 10 seconds. also right when I put it in drive it will surge. I was thinking about pulling off the trottle body and cleaning it.
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I've noticed on first start up the RPMs go as high as 3000 for a couple of seconds and then drop to normal even at 68' degrees,is that normal? because if it is what will aspect when the temperature drops to 20 or even lower.It is a 2.5 liter 4.
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2001 F150 5.4 4x4 148K... I recently replaced the intake manifold on this truck and when the engine revs it wants to continue at high RPMs for about 10 seconds after letting off the throttle. When driving, it almost wants to go faster and the gas mileage is really bad. Had some codes come up and took it to AZO and had them checked. P0171 & P0174. Guess I need to do some testing on the MAF and injectors.
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I have a 2003 ford explorer sohc 4.0l , that starts only with the gas peddle pushed to the floor and will only run for a couple of seconds at a time. Just replaced all the timing chains and tensioners. It has 145 lbs compression, and 60 psi fuel pressure. No codes on the computer.
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Tried starting the truck, fired ran good for a couple seconds, then ran extremely rough for a couple seconds then died.
I did some research and changed the ICP because there was oil in the connector so even if it wasnt causing my issue i wanted to replace it.
Now I have the same issue but it will actually run a little longer and not stall. I thought it was fixed so i took it for a drive, after about 3 miles it bogged down and i was able to make it home with half throttle going about 30mph. Sounds almost like its running on half the cylinders. i unplugged the ICP and it continued to run that way.
I had done the 50cent mod a few years back with the peices from ford but i know the harnesses themselves can wear through so i checked the resistance between the center pin and the two pins to the right and left for both the injector harness and they had about 3ohms.
I am leaning towards an IPR but from the reading i have done it seams like most trucks will not restart after they die. I have AE so i am going to hook it up later today, just wanted some reccomendations on what to look at.
I also remember when i shut it off the unplug the ICP to see if it would clear up the needles on the gauges did a full sweep as if i disconnected the battery which i though was weird.
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I have Warn hubs that I have to lock in. All works good. A/C goes to defrost at first when cranking but then runs fine after a couple seconds. So, I was thinking that maybe my pump is running all the time. Who knows. I'm sure all my vacuum lines are dry rotted. What exactly is the need for it exactly and what's the best way to cap? Hoping to do it at the unit itself if possible.
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I had the engine out of my truck (7.3 with e4od) to do manifolds. Anyway, I got it back in and started it up. Since there was air in th fuel lines it had to crank a couple seconds but started up. I looked and now fluid coming out, then it sat for a few minutes running and I took it for a drive. While sitting in the driveway it wa smoking a bit. But I thought it's from the oil I got in the exhaust while drilling two of the manifold bolts and soaking the bolts with ATF/acetone. After about half a mile I thought that maybe it's more oil then that would cause... So I went back. I looked and the inside of the exhaust is covered with oil, and the rear of the engine is also.
When it was out I capped all of the open ports so I could pressure wash the grease off. Also, I flipped the CCV so I could do the delete. During instal, I missed the cap on the CCV and it was not able to breath. I think that maybe it built up pressure and blew the valve cover gasket? It looks like it's coming from the right cover on the backside; I had not taken this cover off while the engine was out. How much pressure does it build? Is it possible that it could have blown the gasket out? I have done the oil cap trick to test blowby and it always passed the test. What it could be? For the leak on the engine and why it's in the exhaust?
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When I'm driving at highway speed and press the accelerator after coasting a bit, the engine stumbles then picks up and accelerates. The fuel bowl assembly is brand new as of 5 months ago, and I drained of any water last month when I changed oil. Truck is stock with 350k miles.
Apart from this issue, it runs well and idles smoothly. Injectors are healthy per a buzz test a powerstroke mechanic performed last year. What could cause the stumble off idle?
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i have an 04 f250 5.4 4x4 250k miles+ ...the truck has been acting weird lately. I has 0 power...i went to pass an 18 wheeler today at about 15 mph and gave it about half throttle...well it held first gear till about 5 grand then slammed into 2nd...It just has 0 umph ... it wont even consistanly pick up speed at half throttle or over..the rpms will stop ...then pick up...then stop...it always accelerated smoothly....it is bogging really bad...it was downshifting into 3rd today on little overpass hills that it NEVER does that on...something is telling me torque converter BTW no codes and no flashing overdrive light
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My '03 7.3 is "surging" on idle. When warmed up, and idling, the RPMs will drop by 300 or 400 for a few seconds and then will correct and shoot back up. It cycles like this (every 5 seconds-ish) continually . I just put in a new IDM and checked the UVCH - is there a separate idle control mechanism that I need to have a look at? (2003, 7.3, 214K, stock).
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I own a 2010 ford fusion, with a no cap fuel filling system. My son ran it out of gas. While he was trying to add some he could not get it to take because of the internal seal not releasing, it just spilled out the overflow. Ever since then , at the gas station when fueling,the pump will shut off every couple of seconds. I don't know if running out of gas caused this,but i would like to know how to fix it.
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I have 2003 Buick Century. I started having problems with the car after coming to a stop, accelerating - the car starts to go hesitates, then jerks a bit to go. This does not happen every time after a stop but when it does the service engine soon light comes on. Initially I got the P0401 code (I think) and took it in to a mechanic. They could not find anything wrong with the car but did clean out the EGR valve, that didn't work, they worked on my transmission and replaced other parts, still no success.
I took the car to another mechanic who replaced the EGR valve and several other small parts. I still had the problem but this time the error code was P0420. I took it back again and replaced the spark plugs, O/2 sensor, catalytic converter. That hasn't fixed the problem. The mechanic said that they have taken my car for several test drives and the car has not demonstrated the problem. The error message still reads P0420 even after all of the parts have been replaced. The 2nd mechanic has washed his hands of my problem.
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I've had a 1999 explorer for a few months. The transmission has always taken a couple of seconds to "catch" in drive and was then fine. Today, I had to tow another car a short distance and now going into drive directly is useless.
I must shift into 2nd and then back into drive. Then, for the most part, the car drives fine unless I have to put it in Park or in Reverse. Then I must repeat the procedure.
The fluid is fresh and the dipstick shows a slight overfill. Is there anything I can do about this or is this the death of the transmission. If I can run it another couple of years, I'd be satisfied.
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Just installed a new jvc kd-s48 stereo and it cuts out for a half a second every couple seconds. Kind of like a scratched cd but it's with the tuner and mp3. The sound "stumbles" and then it very quickly raises back up. it sort of seems like if I wiggle the wires in the back it'll stop. I will check all connections, I use female and male spade connectors and then shrink wrap over each connection. Could it be a faulty deck?
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I used the a/c for the first time this year on my 2013 F250 and heard some noises I don't remember hearing before. When the a/c(or defrost) is on every 12 sec or so I hear a hissing sound that lasts for a couple of seconds then goes away. Is this the compressor cycling and if so is it normal to hear it inside the cab?
I know it has to do with the a/c because if I shut it off as the hissing sound is being made the sound will instantly stop. Other than the noise the a/c works fine and blows cold air. Also, if it matters I have the standard control panel, not climate control.
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I have a '92 Ranger with a 2.3 liter engine. She starts and runs a couple of seconds and shuts down. I'm thinking maybe a fuel pump is not putting out thepressure needed. Gotta go to work tomorrow and gotta get the truck running today.
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2003 Ford F150 XLT - Truck hesitates (or bucks) as the throttle is pressed. Not from a stop though. It starts / runs fine, but no matter how how fast, what gear, hot or cold, it feels like the fuel cuts out for 1/2 second. Also it is not a specific point in the throttle motion. It does it when it is halfway, 3/4 or fully depressed, but is not consistent. It does happen more frequently now than two weeks ago. I am not getting a check engine light.
4.6L V8, 5 Speed Manual 4x4, 74000 mi
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I have a 2001 f150 5.4 with 200,900 miles. Just bought the truck about six months ago off my dad when he got a new one. I am now experiencing what seems to be a slight misfire. With the hood up pulling the throttle around 2200 rpm starts making a loud knock. Above that rpm nothing and below that nothing. Standing by the tailpipe it sounds like a small backfire. It Idles really rough and when you get that sound out of the tailpipe it jumps like its hiccuping. And tailpipe is vibrating quite a bit.
Things I have done in the past month include replacing the pcv valve, changing spark plugs, cleaning throttle body, cleaning MAF, took down exhaust to check cats because i was experiencing a power loss and bogging. When the exhaust was off i punched the two rear cats. I ran a bottle of iso heat in the gas. Everything seems to have supported the power problem but now less than a week later i am starting to experience the knock and backfire type sounds.
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