Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Hesitation / Acceleration - Overheated Due To Busted Radiator Side Tank
Jul 10, 2013
So today my 97 f150, 2wd 5.4L automatic has started giving me some troubles. The truck has 291k miles on it, i bought it with 260k miles on it. About a week ago the truck overheated due to a busted radiator side tank, it was promptly replaced the next day and i have had no problems with it since, till today. Sometimes when you start it it will stumble alive like its out of gas, give it a sec and it settles down. When you get going, its a little down on power, i know it has 291k miles on it but it pulled hard. Its OK till you get to about 35-40, when it just stops accelerating. I had my foot to the floor and it barely went above 40, if you ease into it slowly it will slowly accelerate till about 45, drop down to 40 and then go like normal.
When i changed the radiator i lost about a cup maybe a cup and a half of transmission fluid, i have gotten time to replace it but i didn't think that small amount of fluid would dramatically change performance, the fluid also looked almost new. The only other things i have done to the truck is some brake work and replace the alternator. I have no knowledge of what the previous over did or did not do. It is not throwing any code, and the OD light/button is broken, i think on newer rangers the OD light would would brink indicating transmissions problems, not sure if its the same on these trucks.
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Recently purchased a 2000 ford f150 4.2l. started hesitating when i would try to accelerated stressed or when a.c on. if i drive it like a grandpa wont do it. filled up the gas tank and it completely went away. the second it went down to the 3/4 line, started hesitating again. mind you when it was full even with the a.c on and going 80mph on expressway it would not hesitate.
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I have a 97 F-150 and my Radiator fluid has been leaking very bad but hasn't been taking the fluid from overflow tank. Actually the new fluid that I put in the overflow has now turned a rusty color....
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97 f150 4.6 4x4, no check engine light, no missing or sputtering, however when I try to get going I can't get passed 2500 rpm and when it finally does its still kind of sluggish and can't pass as easy. Changed fuel filter. It idles fine and when I put it in neutral it will go up to 5000 rpm if I want.
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2001 F150 V8 4.6 Liter... I've been experiencing hesitation when first pressing the gas, stall at idle, RPM fluctuating between 1000 and 500 at idle and loss of acceleration. Had the truck read at autopart store and received a P0402 error and misfire is cylinder 8.
At this point, I've changed the the plug, COP, EGR valve, EGR Valve Solenoid and DPFE sensor and still have the exact same symptoms. I've also changed the plug for cylinders 5,6 & 7 as well. The check engine light is on, went off briefly after changing DPFE sensor, but back within a day.
Given the fact the error code is P0402 and some of the threads I've read, I thought the issue was centered around the EGR system, but I've replaced many of the components.
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2003 F150 5.4 72852 miles
I have a Rough Idle & sometimes a hesitation or stumble on acceleration. I cleaned the MAF & IAC motor & Air & Fuel Filters are new. I got a 20890 scanner & ran test 6 53 as suggested in many posts by BlueGrass. Here are My results & what They Convert to.
1 00F5 .3675
2 0051 .1215
3 0000
4 0000
5 00A3 .2445
6 0000
7 0000
8 0000
I'm guessing the cop's are ok & probably need plugs? I was hoping to just swap a coil. Too cold to do plugs & truck won't fit in my garage.
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I have a 2003 Ford F150, 4x4, and I recently installed torsion bar leveling keys, i did not notice before i put the keys on, but while parked level, wheels straight, my wheels stand awkward, the bottom sticks out while the top is kinda sucked in, when i took a closer look, my inner axle shaft boot on my passenger side is busted and slinging all the grease out, what is the solution?
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I have a 02 Screw 5.4 triton. When in 2 wheel drive its fine under acceleration but when I put it in 4by it judders under acceleration from side to side. Like when you have strong side wind. It doesn't pull to any side when it does this and doesn't do it in 2 wheel drive. Also it is on the fly 4by but I always park and change it in 'P', I had to drop it back into 2by on the fly and it didn't disconnect till I stopped and repeated the process.
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My '97 F250 5.4L is pumping coolant on to the top of the motor which is burning off causing it to smoke like it's overheated but the temp gauge is operating in normal range. I'm losing coolant but can't see where. It's not going to the ground. It just pools up on the top of the motor. I've already replaced the water pump in the last 2 weeks because of the same issue. It stopped for a few days but now it's back again. Bad water pump from O'Reily's or is there some other issue here? I've checked while the motor's running and can't see where the coolant is coming from and there's no coolant coming out of the bleed hole in the top of the new water pump. I need this truck up and running.
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Was driving my truck I have a 97 f150 4x4 4.6L, btw. The heater started blowing cold air and I looked at the temp gauge but it was showing lower than it normally does and then, after a couple of miles or so I looked at the temp gauge again. By this time I was in my driveway. And it was overheating it might have been that way before I looked at the temp gauge again. But any way I opened the hood didn't see any leaks, all my hoses were hot except the top heater hose. Also checked the oil it was full and coolant was too, what this could be? Sounds like a t-stat to me? But could be worse. Also forgot to mention that the oil had no signs of water in there nor the expansion tank cap !
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I replaced water pump with timing belt and thermostat. Took a test drive and engine still overheats. Radiater fan kicks in when it's hot. The upper hose from radiator to engine is very hot, only allows me to touch for 1 sec. But, the lower hose is warm, I can leave my fingers over it 10 sec or more. What is the problem? do I have a restricted radiator? Do I need a new one or I can flush and clean it. I posted a thread earlier regarding gunk in cooling system. I change coolant annually but it alway get brownish once it gets circulated around. The antifreeze leaked out from the car at junk yard where I removed the thermostat housing, looks much better than mine.
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My radiator was leaking and I accidentally boiled it dry. I put water back into the cooling system, but now my car won't start. Anything I can check to try and get it to run before I get it towed it to a mechanic?
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I drove an Avante 09. Recently, my car was breakdown due to engine overheated, as radiator coolant is dry out and noticed there is a hole in in the pipe and hence cause leakage in the system. As the breakdown was happened in johor bahru, I have no choice but towed my car to hyundai msia dealer workshop in JB. However, after they check, they refuse to repair it due to the reason they do not have the spare parts, as my version is 1600cc and msia version is 2000cc.
Thereafter, I towed my car to the workshop in JB, recommend by my friend in JB. After they checking, the said my engine block is made of aluminum, very easy get out of shape when overheated. They say by changing the headset parts will not completely solved the problem, said to completely solve the issue must changed the engine block. To me, by changing the engine block equivalent changing the whole engine, am i correct?
Any bro here facing engine overheated due to dry out of coolant? Can cause such a big issue? In fact I am a bit doubt on their diagnosis. I don't really think the overheat will cause the engine block damage.
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Do I buy an engine or sell the car for parts? My son’s car overheated while driving down the hwy due to a radiator leak. After a first and second opinion, two separate mechanics told me the engine has no compression so basically was shot. The car was in good shape with 102k miles and everything worked. Internet surfing has some used engines with 80-100k miles from $800-$1200, some guaranteed some not. Is it better to rebuild the original engine or buy another used one? Labor cost on top of an engine wont be cheap. Are other parts under the hood expected to be replaced too as a result of the engine overheating?
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Just like the title says oil In my rad! Anyway here's what I've seen....I noticed that I've been having to put oil in my truck more often than I need to. I thought maybe I was leaking somewhere but I wasn't. So then I thought I was burning it but no smoke. So then I was reading on this forum and someone mentioned oil in the rad. So I checked and it was pretty black in color so I figure that's what the problem is. My question is would it be a head gasket or intake? I also read a quote from Moto Mel on here that it could be some kind of adapter that is located on the lower left side of the motor that has o rings that can go bad and cause this?The milage on my truck is 145000 and running great (other than this). No overheating or anything.
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Is it difficult to replace the lower radiator hose on a 5.4L? I'm mainly thinking about access to the connection at the water pump.
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I went to unscrew the radiator drain plug but the head broke right off leaving the rest of it inside.
I drilled out a little bit of it so I could drain the coolant and bough a replacement plug but there are still pieces stuck inside and I cant get them out.
Should I just drill out the remaining pieces or is there a better way to get them out?
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So about 2 yes ago I had a cracked intake manifold and had it replaced..shortly after had low egr flow codes that had me replace every sensor involved on top and three that ford found for me. And fixed...my 01 f150 5.4 super crew has been my best friend last 165k of its 246. So it has a small leak in radiator. Didn't think that would do anything for a bit. Well after almost overheating a few times I pulled up to a job and water was pouring out the top back passenger side....blah blah blah saving 1400 this time I pulled everything to the head. Took off intake put back together torqued to 20lbs.
Still mix fires at low idle and low rpms.gets worse longer I sit at light have redone plugs switched coil pack at the misfire location..still missing. the round black sensor before the egr out of the intake has good vac in but limited to egr. Don't think this is right...has lean codes both banks....but I also had a PVC not in and the exhaust outflow sensor had a hose knocked off again...misfiring...checking hoses nothing obvious... Perhaps the spare coil is no good now....keep one two handy for wet locations... Did I not do intake right...and I did use rtv
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I have a 2000 F150 with 5.4 L motor. The last two trips I have had the top radiator hose come off while under heavy load (pulling a long hill) after 5 hours of driving. So far I have flushed the radiator, checked the thermostat, and refilled with G05 Gold and distilled water 60/40 ratio. I do not hear any gurgling in the heater core. Heater seems to work great.
The stock temp gauge shows it right in the middle range between Hot and cold, right before it blows the hose off. I have replaced top and bottom hoses and put new stainless steel clamps at all end except the top, where I am using the OEM clamp that came with the truck. I thought about replacing the top clamp as well but did not want to blow out my radiator, if in fact it is developing high pressure.
Do these clamps get weak with time? Should I use a vacuum attachment on the fill/overflow tank to remove all air before refilling?
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So the story goes like this, my teacher was trying to scrap a truck that he had sitting on his farm so i got it. I've been using it for a DD for the past year and a half and not I'm starting to do rust repair starting with rocker panels. But, what i was really wondering is how involved would it be to replace the radiator core support? Main reason being last time i was under the hood replacing the pass side valve cover gasket i hit it and knocked a hole right through it so yeah I'm thinking is about time to replace it.
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this winter i have found that my truck's heater core isn't flowing, meaning i have hot on the upper hose and the lower is luke warm and there is no heat while running down the road. I have changed the t-stat and the heater core and radiator are new as of four years ago. last year i could roast a chicken with the heat. i also have no pressure in the radiator hose at all, engine runs at normal temp, no over heat situation and i don't smell any loss of antifreeze.
1999 f-150 4.6 150k
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