Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Heated Air Coming Only Through The Defroster
Jul 31, 2013
1997 F-150, 4X4, 151K miles, 4.6L. For years I've had an issue with heated air coming only thru the defroster, never the floor (a/c works normal). I've searched the forum and read many posts regarding the blend door. I pulled the switch and tested the vacuum hoses by taking a can of compressed air and blowing into the lines. All seem to be working with the exception of one, the black hose. I tried to follow it but short of removing the entire dash, I lost it. I read that there is a canister and small module in the engine compartment. Is there a way to test these to see if they're the problem? Where to look ? I only see one, on the firewall, passenger side, between the fender and the center of the compartment. Where's the other?
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I'd like to disable my rear window defroster but keep my heated mirrors. Reason being I don't won't my rear window to explode when I turn it on. I have a 2011 bought a couple of months ago. Could I pull the fuse and still have the mirrors on? I rarely use the back window as I use to side mirrors. Drive a 18 wheeler for a living.
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I bought a used 2013 F150 Limited. The truck only had 24,000 miles on it and is still under the 36/36 warranty.
I tried to use the rear defroster and the button never stayed on. As I started to investigate the truck through the owners manual I realized that it was supposed to come with heated mirrors, standard equipment on the limited, and it shows them on the VIN build out. It does not have the heated mirrors installed.
I take it to my local dealer to get the rear defroster fixed and have the mirrors installed and the dealer won't do it. I have to call Ford and open a case. I do this and Ford rejects my claim since I bought it used.
To me this shows a very poor business ethic and is disrespectful to a long time loyal Ford customer. To be honest this has really ticked me off and completely turned me off towards Ford.
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My uncles 99 f150 is acting a little strange. When he steps on the gas, the air conditioning comes out of the defroster vents. What's going on?
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My 2003 F150's compressor cycles even when the a/c or defroster is not turned on. It has the climate control type of temperature system. This doesn't seem normal.
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I just purchased a 2000 f150 4x4 with a 5.4 automatic... it ran great for a few days and even ran fine on the 100+mile trip home from the previous owners house. All the sudden it shut down on the highway today. I could barely get it started again and when it did start, it ran like hell, bucking and jolting, almost like a really bad misfire. I could also smell trans fluid being heated up, so I let it sit awhile and then it fired right up. It drove for about a half mile and began to act up again. I threw it in second gear to limp it home which it died several times on. Each time I'd let it sit for like 15 minutes with the negative battery cable off. It fires right up after that but the problem quickly returns. Also the overdrive button doesn't work, and the trans control switch fuse (spot 29) blows repeatedly. Also the power door locks do not work.
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My 1999 F 250 5.4 liter. I know I have a vacuum leak because whenever I accelerate the air conditioning coming from the vents switches to the defroster. So my question is how do I go about finding the leak? My hubs in the front are manual so I know I don't have lines going up there. I do have some mechanical capabilities I've changed water pumps alternators brakes etc. But never anything with vacuum lines or a/c.
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2003 ford excursion xlt, 4x4, v10, auto.
My rear window defroster does not work. I have no power to the switch. on the reply I do have power to terminal 30 on the relay. If I use a jumper wire between 30 and 87 it works. I think the problem is terminal 86 should have power when thever key is in run position but it doesn't. I have the factory wiring diagram book but am at a loss. It seems to me it is more of a mechanical connection inside the junction box but there are other components on the circuit that work.
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New GTI owner here! Just picked up my '16 carbon steel gray Autobahn with PP, DSG, DCC, Xenon. Really enjoying it. Coming from an 07 E92 335i, I'm still getting used to the very different feel of this vehicle, but it's mostly a pleasant experience. However, one issue: there's a sound coming from the defroster vents, a kind of dull "rattle sound" that isn't anything terrible but I wish it wasn't there. It isn't a leaf hitting a fan blade as it goes away if I turn off the defrost vents. It just sounds like air hitting a rough edge on something causing a turbulence noise. I guess it could be something fluttering in that area, but I can't see anything when looking at the vent from outside the car and it's very constant.
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When I turn on the heat or defroster I hear this humming noise coming from the front of my touareg, is this normal? I have a 04 v8....
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I'm getting a CLUNK when coming to a stop with my truck.
If I shut off the overdrive while coming to a stop it doesn't do it. Or if I manually shift it down a gear.
I read on here it could be a U-joint or the yoke or something and maybe something needs greased.
Anyway I crawled under the truck and it looks like I need a special socket to remove the 4 bolts holding the driveshaft to the rear end.
What type of socket it this? No grease fittings on my U-joints. What's causing this CLUNK as well?
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I've recently had problems with my truck running 97 f150 4.2L.The latest episode is it stalling when coming to a stop. It will start right back up, I've checked for codes and found none, I have changed the fuel and air filters and I have tested the fuel pressure.(I have a video of the test however I don't know how to upload it.) Key on engine off it pumps up to 30 immediately on the gauge. key on engine running gauge shows a steady 32. I am really at a loss for what to check next. I really need this truck dependable again ASAP my wife is scared to drive it.
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Just tried to engage my 4x4 today to see if it was working and nothing. It is the electronic shift on the fly. I started checking the vacuum hoses and found one that looked like a mouse chewed threw part of it and repaired that line. Still no 4x4. So...there are no lights coming on, no sound from the transfer case shift motor and no noise of any kind when cycling the shift ....
I pulled the connection apart at the shift motor to test for voltage with 2hi and truck running and no 12volt. I tested all the pins but not sure if i did it correctly. Also the shift motor itself is rusty on the outside casing. What pin to test for voltage?
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I've got a 2003 f150 supercrew with a 5.4 in it. I have a whine coming from the engine bay. I thought it was the power steering pump and changed that and that wasn't it. I'm thinking its the idler or tensioner pully. I've ruled out the alternator by wrapping rags around it and it didn't dampen the sound any.
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2013 Sonata Limited. The seat heaters come on at random intervals. The switch is in the off position and the lights on the switch are off yet the heat still comes on. If I move the switch to either High, or Low the light and the heat comes on. When I turn the switch off the heat stops. The dealer looked at the switches and seat today and could not find anything.
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My truck over heated and I now have a looks like a pin hole leak next to the front injector on the left side looking at it. I have used sealers and it does not work. Water pools around the injector. Does this sound like a cracked intake housing? I have done many repairs but this is something I'm not sure I want to do. I can get a new intake setup for 160.00 on rock auto but ford would be in the 300 or more just for the part.
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2000 F150 4.6 i have an anti freeze smell and coming from my AC vents, stronger from Passenger side vents. I am losing some anti freeze from the reservoirs, where should i look for the leak?
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I have a 2000 f150 with 210000 miles. The truck wants to stall when coming to a stop. I have noticed this from a higher speed and more when at operating temp. The truck runs great and idles at a stop great, but when coming to the stop the rpms drop to300 or so then it catches itself and revs up. I have cleaned the maf sensor the iac and checked throttle body all seem to be in working order and no obvious vacuum leaks.
My power steering pump is going and it's time to change plugs, but don't believe these would only effect the truck at braking. Have heard maybe torque converter is stuck this does make sense cause usually happens after getting out of first gear. Would changing the fluid solve this or should i look at sensors? Fluid starting to turn slight brown probably been in there 80000 miles.
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So I just installed a fresh 4.6 long-block in my '98 4x4 xlt and I have a noise coming from the manifold area. Thought it was possibly valves or timing chain. Took it to dealer and they diagnosed it as the Intake Manifold Runner Control. Never heard of it!!! Problem is, I can't find that part for this motor. Is it inside the intake? Do I have to replace the whole intake? Dealer didn't tell me, once I said I would do the work myself.
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New to owing a ford pickup. I bought a 2002 Ford F-150 lariat 4x4 as a project truck. I've always wanted a truck to mess around with, but once I got the truck home I noticed it had a knocking sound. It didn't sound like it came from the top of the engine so I checked the muffler first and found it had a 3" slit in it. I replaced it but the sound remains. I heard it could be lifters? Is that something I should mess with or not?
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I have smoke coming out of rear passenger tire. Also it's making noise like rubbing sound, sometimes it squeaks loud when taking off and coming to a stop. How to fix and what to look for?
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