Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Hard Start After Sitting In Hot Weather - Code P0443
Aug 9, 2016
I have a 1997 f-150, V-6 absolutely base model, a shade under 80,000 miles. I'm the second owner, and the truck was previously garaged most of the time but now sits out in the driveway. The truck has developed an issue where it will be increasingly hard to start (crank crank crank, intermittent cough) after it sits out in hot weather, which is a problem here in Southern California. When the problem is really bad, it can take all day to get it started (try, wait a bit, try again, etc.). When it does finally catch, it sometimes backfires, idles rough for a few seconds then runs like a champ. I can turn it off and restart it immediately, I can let it sit for an hour or three and restart it, but if it sits out in hot weather it gets increasingly hard to start.
I've scoured various forums, and I've tried every solution I can find. Cycling the key to get fuel in the rail, opening the hood to cool off the engine cavity, trying to start it before it gets hot outside, etc. The truck *is* throwing code p0443, and scouring other forums I think that's either the evap canister purge valve, which my last mechanic replaced, or possibly the charcoal canister, which has not been replaced, but I don't know if that could be contributing (the truck was throwing that code before the hard start developed).
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I have a 1997 Ford F-150 with the 4.6L auto trans 189,000 miles
Ok.. there was no problems until the other day when I unplugged the positive side of the battery to replace it's clamp. I Put the new one on and drove to the store but when I came to a stop, the rpm's dropped to 0 and the truck died. I restarted it and every time I would come to a stop it would die unless I give it a little gas also if I start the truck and leave it in park it idles fine until I give it some gas then let off.. the idle drops and dies! If I give it a little steady gas the idle will return to normal.
The check engine light works fine but never once lit up because of this problem! I used a code scanner and if the truck was off and the key forward, it would have no codes. With it running it had the code P0443. I found and replaced a blown fuse and still have the same problem but it reads no codes at anytime. I checked all the vacuum hoses and there seems to be no leaks and the mass airflow sensor looks clean. I have allot of miles but it has been taken care of well and has had a ton of parts replaced over the last few years.
I am wondering why this happened out of the blue and If there is something I am missing that I should be looking at. I don't want to replace the purge control valve if thats not the problem.
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I bought a 2003 nissan maxima with 135k and it had a p0300 it had a performance k&n filter on it so i though someone might have installed it wrong or what ever so i bought the car cheap. i have replace the k&n filter with a stock 2000 nissan maxima air box with new filter i got from the junkyard it worked for the misfire calm down a little then i bought the car to a mechanic and he said because of my hard starting it could be a cam senor or crank senors so I've replaced that still no luck then he pulled out the spark plugs and they were sooty black but when i bought the car i checked and they were brand new so i swap them out with ngk platinum spark plugs then work a little but still same problem. i had a p0302,p0304,p0306 when i clear the p0300 but usually its all ways a p0300, its been a month and I am still driving like this.
SYMPTOMS:
Hard starting after 20 mins of sitting
I can smell gas from the driver seat when i start the car and open the window
Exhaust air isn't smooth but in pops
Getting like 14-15 mpg in city
When stopped at a stop light i can feel the car misfiring
WHAT I HAVE REPLACED:
Front bay 3 ngk spark plugs cylinders 2,4,6
Cylinder 4 coil
Air box
Cam sensor and crankshaft senor
Coolant temperature sensor
Battery
[URL] ....
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I have a 2003 Saturn Ion-3 that I bought a few months ago. It has 157,000 mile and runs great when it will start. Here is the issue: after the car has sat for several hours it seems to flood and starts hard. I end up putting the accelerator to the floor and this seems to work. I have to crank the engine repeatedly and when it catches I hold it to the floor until the engine clears (lots of chugging and white/blue smoke until it clears) and then runs just fine. If the car sits for a short period, it starts ok. The longer it sits, the harder it is to start (i.e overnight or a whole shift at work).
If the car sits for several days it starts just fine. It acts as if it floods while it sits so I changed the Coolant Temp Sensor, still acted up. I then checked the fuel pressure at the schrader valve (55 psi) and noticed that it lost pressure as it sat. I assumed that the injectors were leaking and had them rebuilt (by Mr Injector). The flow bench results did not show and leaking. I reinstalled them along with new spark plugs and the car started up immediately and ran/drove great. This morning was the first morning of sitting all night and it would not start again. It tries to fire but will not catch. I tired to have the CEL code read at autozone but they told me my lighter wasn't working and the couldn't do it (although it runs my GPS just fine).
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1999 4.6L won't start after sitting a month. Ran fine before, now won't start. Cranks fine. Cannot hear fuel pump turn on when key is turned. Fuel pump fuse is good.
Fuel pump relay clicks a few times when key is turned. Is this normal? I am hoping it is the relay and not the pump. What should I check next? The wires at the pump? What should they read?
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2000 Chrysler Cirrus 2.5 V6, 84,300 miles. Twice, after sitting out a day or 2 in wet weather, it was very, very difficult to start. Each time, it didn't fire at all, but then did finally start after 4 or 5 tries and ran fine.
Tried spraying water everywhere under the hood, while it was running, but got no miss or other symptom. After then sitting a day or 2 in the garage, it started and ran fine the first 2-3 miles, then started stumbling/missing and stalled at a light. It restarted and continued to stumble/miss before running fine after another 1-3 miles. Changed the distributor cap and repeated the same test, getting same result. Also checked fuel pressure--it's on the money, building specified pressure and holding as expected. No check engine light or other symptom and no relevant codes.
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I have a 2002 F-150 4.2L that is hard to start when warm. Cold starts are no problem, except in the below 0 F stretch last winter. Also when it is a hot start it is not an issue. Only when it has sat for a few hours does it have an issue. The following is the list of things that have been done.
- New Plugs,
- New Plug Wires,
- New Coil Pack,
- New Fuel Filter,
- Clean Throttle Body,
- Clean Mass Air Sensor,
- Clean Idle Bypass,
- Replace EGR Vacuum Control Switch,
- Manifold Leak Repair (Ford Dealer),
- Throttle Body Stop Adjusted for more idle speed,
- Check fuel pressure (40 psi key on, drops to 35 psi static).
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Truck has performed flawlessly during that time period. Early build 2003 CC SB 4wd King Ranch truck 94,000 miles I purchased new in 2003. Good batteries. Bone stock except for superchips tune.
First sign of trouble: Two weeks ago CEL came on, P2285 Injector Control Pressure Circuit Low, as soon as truck was started after sitting unused for about a month. Bought new sensor, haven't installed it yet (early model sensor located under turbo on rear of engine and a real pain to change). Truck still started fine and ran fine. Dreading the ICP sensor install, I continued to drive the truck. Drove truck 5 miles to get tractor fuel. Got fuel, started truck and drove away. Got 200ft and truck died. I changed secondary filter under hood, turned key on and let pump cycle about 4 times. Truck started. Cleared codes. No longer have CEL. Drove 5 miles home, shut truck off and no start.
Troubleshooting: Changed primary filter under truck. Really cruddy (probably 80,000 mi on it). I cleaned inside filter housing thoroughly. I had to cycle pump KOEO about 6 times before it started. Shut off and immediately tried to start. No start. Ran pump KOEO about 30 seconds. Started. Shut off and same result. I then drove truck 4 miles driving both normal and WOT. No problems, no smoke, no CEL, ran perfectly normal. Shut off, no start until cycling pump KOEO for about 30 seconds. No codes set.
I then removed cap from secondary filter and checked for trash. Fuel and bowl were clean. I did notice fuel drained completely from bowl in about 5 minutes. I reinstalled filter and put pressure gauge on housing.
Fuel pressure readings: KOEO 55psi after about 3 seconds. Engine running 55psi. Turn key off and pressure instantly drops to 25psi, then bleeds off to zero over about a 3 minute time period. Does this seem normal?
Questions: Could the clogged fuel filters cause the p2285 code to set? Could the HPOP system have developed a leak and cause these symptoms?
Could an injector leak cause these symptoms and engine still run ok?
Action Plan: Install new ICP sensor. Do bubble test to check for injector compression leak. Install Blue Spring mod. Waiting on parts. Possibly buy scanner which will read HPOP output etc. Any recommendations here?
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Driving the last week, gone about 10 - 15miles when all the sudden I noticed a stumbling in motor while going up hills. Got where I was going, shut her off and came back a few minutes later, loaded the kids and popped the hood. Nothing obvious but a vac hose from the vac reservoir(?) to TB was a little rough looking. Jumped in, hard to start - low on fuel or ignition and idled at 300 - 400 till throttle got it going. Has started and idled fine ever since. Raced home with the whole 15 miles stumbling up hills - repeated that every drive since after a few miles of driving. Warming the motor up prior to driving doesn't seem to speed up the problem - it takes a few miles to start. Assumed fuel pump at this point.
Got to work on it. Replaced the suspect vacuum hose. Nope. Checked fuel psi - 31 and 40 w/o vacuum. Doesn't hold pressure - reading conflicting things on whether the system should hold psi with key cycle. It doesn't - bleeds to 0 in minute. Replaced fuel filter, regulator and pump. Checked the relay and pump after install - good click and good hum. Felt like problem was gone but I didn't drive more than a few miles each time I checked due to pulling the bed for the tank work. Plus we dropped 30 - 40 degrees while working it.
Never a CEL but decided to checked codes.
Continuous pulled up Neutral Safety Switch that I replaced last year
KOEO - P0232 which I assumed was from pulling the inertia switch multiple times to do the fuel system work
One time I did get P1207(?) Cylinder Head Temp Sensor out of range. Got it once and never again. Curious..
KOER - has never found a problem
The cold seems to have lessened the problem making me think electronics. My BIL is saying #4 or #5 coil or plug. I am starting to feel like I am chasing a gremlin.
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I have a 2001 F150 Supercrew that cranks but will not start after a hard rain. The mechanic checked the gem module and the fuse box, the gem module looked good but the fuse box had some corrosion he thought from water so he replaced the fuse box and had a body shop reseal the windshield. The first time it rained it started right up but after the next rain it would not start. I went out 12 hours later and it fired right up. I wonder if I would be better off taking to a Ford dealer. What to do next.
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2002 4.6L 75K Miles ... Truck has hard time starting if it sits for a few days. Recently had the fuel filter (under driver's door) replaced for first time, and mechanic said it was clogged (?). He also checked fuel pump pressure and said it was good (about 40 lbs). Truck starts OK if used every day. Battery seems OK, as starter turn engine fine. Seems that there's a fuel problem.
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But it starts. '99 F250 PS. Had code P1670, cleared it. No other codes. Started truck back up and ran KOER test with AE(which I'm not very good with). The code did not come back. It is hard to start plugged in cold or warmed up. I have WTS light and it goes out(glow plugs are original). RPMs are slow to come up (almost starts before it kicks in). Doesn't matter if fuel tank is full or not. Oil level is fine. Batteries are charged and check good. Starter checks out ok. Buzz test was ok. Now when I run KOER do I need to do anything other than hitting the initiate button?
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My girlfriend has a 2003 f150 4.6lt pick up its a great truck most of the time. Problem is when the temp gets in the neg double digits it becomes very hard to start it cranks fine but doesnt want to fire. When it does fire it might stall a few times before it stays running. The last cold snap we had I replaced the battery and in the summer the starter got changed. I have heard that this model of truck are known for hard cold starts. I am just wondering if this is true and any other thing besides block heater. It is strange that my 89 gm pickup will start no matter what temp and I'm having problems with the newer truck.
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My 2002 F450 7.3 won't start unless the heater is plugged in for 2-3 hours+ regardless of the weather. Today I did a cylinder contribution test and at first cylinder 2 got code P0266 (Injector Circuit Contribution / Balance Fault) and cylinder 7 got code P0281 (Injector Circuit Contribution / Balance Fault). I drove it 10-15 miles and did another test. Only Cylinder 2 got code P0266. No error on cylinder 7. I've used RevX with some success before, so I'm tempted to try it again see if it clears up the error on 2. My question though can injectors be an explanation for my hard start situation? (I've already replaced EGR, ECP, Fuel Filter, CPS and glow plugs seem to be fine also).
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I recently bought a 4.2L V6 2003 F150 with only 20,350 original miles. This car belonged to an older gent who barely used it, then passed on about 3 years ago, and truck sat around barely used by anyone. When I picked it up I ran some Seafoam through the first two gas tanks as it was occasionally running rough and losing power. Since then truck has been running incredibly smooth, but in the last few days it is getting harder to start. If I pumped it two or three times it would start OK, but today I have had to pump it while cranking it to get it to start. ( the pumping may have nothing to do with it starting)
I am replacing the fuel filter in the next couple of days, as any accumulated junk that was in the tank or lines is now probably in the filter, but it seems that a badly clogged filter would also give me some problems running, and it runs really smooth once it starts. I get a pressure gauge, (I understand the rails have a pressure test port) what pressures should I expect at what moments?
Turn key on :
Crank engine :
I am brand new to the F150 and trucks in general.
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I have a 1999 F150 4x4 5.4, I pulled the heads due to blown head gasket. Prior to pulling heads truck started and run fine other than miss on #1 cylinder. I timed the engine according to Haynes manual and posts on this site. Truck is now hard to start and idles very rough. I does seem to smooth out when reving the engine and seems to have plenty of power. Cant find any vacuum leaks or unplugged wires.
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I bought truck with marksman remote starter and it worked great. until... I lost the truck keys. ford dealership reprogrammed key code and cut new keys.
Truck now thinks that it is being stolen every time i try to use remote start. nothing major, theft light on dashboard idiot-light hud flashes.
The question: How the heck to i bypass the anti-theft module? I know that there is equipment out there to do it?
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97 F150 4.6 Vin 6, 5-Speed Trans, 200,000mi, Rebuilt recently. I was on my way to get my truck smogged, but she threw a code, P0171. I read somewhere to clean the throttle body elbow, which I did (needed to do it anyway). After I had everything put back together, I start her, and it's rough and immediately dies. If I keep the RPM's at about 1.5k for a minute, then let off, the truck will run fine for about 30-45 seconds, then die again. I just replaced my IAC and the problem persists.
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So here is a little background on my car have owned it for 1 1/2 years, never had any issues. just recently over the past month the car has trouble starting the first try after sitting for a hour or longer. I took it to the dealer for an oil change and had them check the alternator, battery, and starter. All came back perfectly fine. I also had the spark plugs, and all coil packs replaced assuming this would resolve any issues.
So after doing all of that still have the problem, I have read numerous post that seem similar but have not seen an actual answer. My car is not throwing any check engine lights or anything. Trying to avoid taking it to the dealer to have them waste my time and money. By the way my car only has 38k miles on it second owner.
So far I see it could be
CTS
MAF
Crank Sensor
etc ...
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I've been suffering for this issue for quite a while. My passat 06 is experience a hard time to start up after sitting over night. The first attempt in the morning is always shaky. Then, it starts up okay during the day. Even like after driving 5 mins and I can restart it without any problem. But it's the first time of the day that troubles me.
And some history, my battery died completely like 2 months ago, and I replaced it with a Duracell. At first, it has no problem start up at all. But there was one day I forgot to turn of the lights and leaved my car over night.
The next morning, I was able to start it but with some difficulty. Since then, I have been experiencing hard times in starting up. Need to point out the issue? I'm really afraid to have a dead battery in a parking lot 1 hour away from my apartment again ..
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I have a 1998 ford f150 with a 4.6 v8 it has about 170,000 miles on it. The truck seems to run hot when sitting still in park. I have replaced the radiator, the thermostat. I am lost at what could be causing this issue. when I am going the truck will cool down however if you ever let it get hot it takes longer to cool it down as opposed to getting in it and just going and not sitting before going.
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