I'm trying to find out why my truck has a grinding noise on the passenger side when my truck first starts driving for the first 1/4 mile. It stops after that or when I apply the brakes. Do I have a brake sticking or something more serious?
View 1 RepliesI have a 1997 F150 (truck in signature). In December my passenger side parking brake cable broke so I replaced both rear cables (front cable appears in good condition).
This past Friday the passenger side brake started making a grinding noise so I pulled the drum to find the self adjuster cable broken and the ratchet jammed between the shoe and the drum. I pulled everything apart and put new shoes (the pin the ratchet pivots on was broken off the rear shoe)and all new adjusting hardware (adjuster screw, ratchet, cable, and cable guide). The rest of the hardware looks in good condition (still paint on the springs and retainers). I got everything put together and took it for a test drive, it had a nice firm brake pedal (it's been a while since this truck has had a firm pedal) and great stopping power.
Took it to work today, and on the way back I stopped to pickup a package from the UPS store. I set the parking brake and put the truck in 1st like I always do. When I got back out to the truck to drive home, I released the parking brake but there was still obvious drag as I drove home (no good place to stop during rush hour), got out of the truck and it reeks of burning brakes. I pulled the driver side drum off (after it cooled), which was rather difficult, and everything looks to be in order except the rear shoe was not touching the post at the top of the backing plate. I checked and the adjuster was still all the way in, so that isn't the issue.
I pulled the parking brake cable out to slack the drum side of it (with the pedal released there is some spring tension from the pedal mechanism) and clamped it with vice grips so the cable was slacked and the shoes were then touching the post, and the drum could be installed and turned relatively easily, I then removed the vice grips and let the spring pull the tension out of the cable and the brake held firmly (requiring considerable effort to turn the drum). Is there anyway to adjust the spring tension on the parking brake cable when the parking brake is released?
Additional notes: when setting the parking brake, the pedal will only go down an inch or 2 before the brakes are locked up tight and the pedal won't move, it used to go down several inches before. also I noticed that the feral on the end of the drivers side cable (that locks into the lever attached to the rear shoe) is deformed, like the cable has too much tension on it. The cables are the correct ones for my wheel base according to Autozone but I'm starting to wonder if they are too short. Spring tension on the parking brake cable (when the brake is not set) causes the parking brake to drag. How do I get the parking brake to stop dragging? ("star" adjusters are new and adjusted all the way in).
I'm wondering what is going on with my 2001 F-150's 5.4L Triton engine. Recently it's been making this noise that I can best describe as a "rattle" from the passenger side of the engine. It's not a constant rattle, it comes and goes every few seconds.
It sounds like it's either from the valve cover or timing cover, so I was thinking maybe it's the feared Cam Phaser failure, however the noise doesn't seem to match what I've heard from other videos of confirmed Cam Phaser failures.
I've attached a link to a video of the noise that I made. It also has a lifter tap from the opposite side of the engine that may be noticeable in the video. It has been present since I bought the truck two years ago, it hasn't gotten any worse and it isn't what I'm concerned about.
Video link : [URL] ....
Have a 1998 F-150....heard a strange noise coming from the front passenger side of the truck. Parked and turned the wheel and heard something fall off. It appears to be a shield of some sort.
View 2 RepliesI've had a grinding noise coming from the front passenger side, sounds like the wheel area of the car, for many months. I've driven thousands of miles on it like this, mostly because I'm broke and the car otherwise runs fine, but also because when I've taken it to mechanics, they are stumped.
I took it to a shop about a year ago and he had it for a week, had different specialists look at it and ruled out anything mechanical (wheel bearing, etc.) In the end, he threw up his hands and didn't want to give me any more free labor for his non-diagnosis, and thought he ruled out everything but the transmission. I took it to a transmission shop recently, and the guy ruled out right away that it was the transmission. He tried to diagnose the problem and was stumped too.
Here's what it is doing. It makes a grinding noise around the front passenger wheel when I accelerate. Only when I accelerate. It seems to be more active when it is cold, and after I've been driving the car for about an hour or so, it goes away. It used to only really happen when taking right-hand turns, and that is still when it is at its worst, but now it does it anytime. However--some days it is very bad and some days very light. One day--of course the day I designated to take it to the shop--it stopped altogether and drove like new. Just until I got it home. It is worse in low gears, and used to only happen in first, second and third, but now on an active day I can hear it on the interstate in fifth gear.
The shops I've taken it to can't seem to figure out what it is. Reading threads online, I've learned that people with similar problems found the problem was a bad passenger side motor mount. I have the car at a new shop right now, and I asked them to replace the motor mount, even though it looks fine. I had a long talk with the mechanic there today and he seemed a bit skeptical, but thought it was a possible solution.
Should I spend the money on a motor mount even if it looks okay? (I've also read that the Focus mounts look fine from the exterior when they are bad because they have a gel interior that busts). Especially if this doesn't work, I'm going to be back at square... um, zero.
2005 ford f150 Fx4 So last Friday I started hearing a grinding noise from the passenger side front of my truck. sounded like metal on metal. So I started rooting around and noticed that bottom ball joints were shot. so replaced bottom ball joints on both side. I aslo replaced wheel bearing hub assembly on both sides, still heard the grinding. So I noticed that both axles were slinging grease, so I replaced them on both sides.
Still heard the grinding noise. So then I removed everything from the passenger side and noticed that the locking hub actuator was grinding both axle and the wheel bearing hub. So I just got done replacing that on the passenger side, put it all back together, and still grinding noise ringtones free. Also replaced the 4wd solenoid that they said gets water in it, and I replaced the check valve. And I put new Rotors and breaks. What it could be?
I owned a 99 f250 a little while ago. Just bought a 2006 crewcab F150 xlt about 2 months ago, and for the past month there has been this unusual grinding or whirring like noise coming from the front passenger side wheel.
I took it to the mechanic and he found a bad wheel bearing on drivers side and replaced it but that wasn't the issue. He could hear the noise but wasn't able to figure out what the actual issue was.
The noise only happens when my foot is on the throttle. (not when coasting) and i also just discovered that it doesn't make any noise at all when put in 4x4.
Driving home yesterday I noticed a grinding sound from the driver side rear of the truck. Had a look at the drum brake today and found that the cable to the adjusting lever had snapped and pieces had jammed making the grinding noise. I need to replace the cable and probably have that drum surfaced, but the pads look good.
On the passenger side the hardware is all intact but the shoes look as if they have "spider" cracks everywhere, still lots of shoe left though. What might be causing the cracks on the shoes, and do these need to be replaced? How to do rear drum brakes? (1997 4x4)
I had my first car 3 months and every thing was going fine, this afternoon I was leaving the motorway and heard a grinding noise in the front passenger side. There are marks in the disc but the pad looks like it has enough meat on it. What is the problem? The driver's side is fine no noise. There is a bit of a lip on the disc so I think it would need changing soon but it's not that bad.
View 19 RepliesI have a 2000 Ford F150 4x4 extended cab the passenger side head light is very dim try and turn on high beams and it does not react while on low beam the high beam indicator in the cab is on. Where can I look or what is the common problem for this.
View 10 RepliesMy 2001 5.4 makes a grinding noise when starting. Not all the time but some of the time. it will always start but it is annoying. Need to know if this would be starter or solenoid?
View 4 Replies2000 Ford F250 crew cab 4 x 4 with 7.3. 6 speed transmission. I just had a new clutch installed and now I am have a grinding noise when putting it into 1st gear and when I change from granny to first it will grind also. I did not have this issue before having the clutch replaced. I have also just had a new hydraulic clutch kit installed.......
View 1 RepliesI have a 2002 f150 5.4 with 3.55 limited slip... For months now every time I hit a bump with the front right side there is a loud bang (sounds like a wore out bushing), and if I am driving slow at an idle you can here a thump every time the wheel goes around. And when I turn all the way it sounds more like a grinding sound.... The noise is getting very bad, what it is. I am very mechanically inclined but cannot figure it out.
Everything in the front end seem tight. When I lay under it if I get someone to spin te wheel the thump sound sounds like its in the front dif, kinda echoes through the front drive shaft but u joints seem good. I really think it's in the dif, and I'm hoping the banging noise I hear when I hit bumps is the same problem as the noise when the wheels go around....
I recently sold me 91 F-250 and got into a 98 F-150. It's a SuperCab 6.5' bed, 4x4 off-road, 3.55 gears, 5.4 v8 auto. I love the truck, but I am having an issue with a noise at startup.
Every time I start the truck it fires right up but it makes a grinding noise AFTER it starts for about 3-5 seconds. I thought the starter wasn't disengaging in time so I replaced it. The starter I took off was fairly new. It's teeth had just a little wear and the flywheel had no visible wear. I put in the new starter and there was no change at all.
I also changed the oil and filter using Motorcraft 5w-30 oil and a Motorcraft filter. I also started it without the serpentine belt to rule out a pulley bearing. What the noise could be? The truck runs absolutely excellent, by the way.
I have a '98 Accord. It's got some issues and I am in the process of buying a new vehicle. But need to have a driveable car for work in the meantime. I have a torn boot on the front passenger side. Front brakes are also pretty worn down, not mention the Cat converter is shot and rusted. I'm getting a very loud, grinding noise when I turn to the left. Very loud noise. Some noise when turning to the right but not nearly as loud. My mechanic looked at the car a week ago and told me too many problems to fix the car, get a new one. which I am but it's taking some time. I'm just wondering if you think the car is likely safe enough to continue to drive until I get the new car. It's the loud grinding noise that freaks me out.
View 2 Replies2003 F150 5.4 4x4 supercrew ,76k miles
Recently the passenger side exhaust manifold cracked on my truck. I bought this truck about two years ago with 58k on it and currently have 76k miles. I remember getting the carfax report and being relieved to see that it had exhaust manifold replaced in July of 2014 at 49K miles along with a new EGR tube. I called the shop that worked on the truck to see if he could confirm that both manifolds were replaced since carfax only said manifold & egr tube. The shop manager confirmed that both manifolds were replaced and he told me that they were most likely manifolds from napa according to the part number.
Now, my question is, what's the best brand to replace the manifolds with? Should I just go with OEM and spend the extra $130 per side? I know the manifolds are a common problem with these trucks but only lasting three years and 27K miles just seems ridiculous to me.
I'm hoping that when I get around to actually doing this that they wont be to bad because of how recently they were replaced. For now I just cleaned the area with a wire wheel and used the inferno metal repair. Seems to have done the job but I don't expect it to last long, just another month or two until I move to a place where I can actually work on my vehicles.
My 2001 F150 4.6 threw the #3 plug on the passenger side while going down the road at 65 mph. It threaded back in and tightened up to make it the last 7 miles home. I have read that Time serts are the best option but I need this truck daily at work. Has anyone tried using the Heli Coil system as a temporary fix? I am going to order the Time Set kit but since I need the truck now, I was wondering if it were possible to pick up a Heli Coil and insert it until my Time Sert kit arrives?
View 5 Replies2002 F150 FX4 w/ 5.4 Just sprung a new oil leak somewhere and I can't tell where it's coming from. The oil is actually dripping off the frame on the passenger side. It looks like the leak is somewhere at the back of the engine on the passenger side above the bell housing. It's dripping on the frame and running down a little ways before dripping to the ground. I can't get a good visual without removing the inner fenders. It's a pretty good leak that just started yesterday. Not a drop before then. I just had the oil changed within the last couple of days if that works.
View 3 RepliesI have a possible oil leak as the title said and it's a 5.4 triton. I believe I'm seeing oil under the frame on the passenger side. Where the leak is coming from and I know it's not a severe leak it's still concerning and what it could be. 2000 F150 Lariat 5.4 ....
View 4 Replies2003 F150 4.6 - I'm currently replacing the passenger side manifold studs. How the heck do you get to the bottom bolts? Looks like the motor mount is in the way. There's way more room on the 5.4s...
View 4 RepliesI just purchased a 2001 F-150 XLT and while driving it back to town my brother rolled down the window and now it wont go back up! The drivers side works fine, but the passenger side wont roll up using either side of the switches. I know it isnt the motor because neither side would work. What it might be or how I could fix it?
View 5 Replies