Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Grinding And Starter Won't Engage The Flywheel
Jun 21, 2010
I just bought a 2000 f150 4x4 ex cab with the 5.4. Once in a while when starting, there is a grinding and the starter won't engage the flywheel. The truck has only had 17000 miles put on it in the past 4 years, and has sat quite a bit. Could the starter gear be gummed up and not engaging all the way, or should the starter be replaced? Or could poor contact on the cables cause this? Or is this a flywheel issue?
View 14 Replies
Advertisement
After getting the oil changed in my 1997 Ford F-150 4.6L with 150K miles at a local quick lube, I made one stop and my truck wouldn't start. I could hear the starter engage the flywheel, but couldn't turn it over at all. Oil was clean and full. I bench tested the starter and it tests good. I put a breaker bar on the crankcase nut and I could barely move it. Oil level was about 2 quarts low before oil change.
View 10 Replies
I have a 2000 Ford F150 lariat with the 5.4 liter engine. At least once or twice a day, its like the starter hits a bad spot and will spin but not engage the flywheel. It has a new starter, battery, and solenoid. What this might be?
View 1 Replies
I have a 1992 for explorer XLT 2-wheel drive Automatic 4.0 engine. The starter started grinding against the fly-wheel. Changed the starter and the same thing happened. There is no shim for this starter. I took it down and checked the flywheel--as much as I can see through the starter mount hole and the teeth on the flywheel are great. There is only the slightest point of impact where the starter is just grazing the flywheel.
I also grabbed the flywheel to look for looseness, thinking it might have broken and/or warped and I just can't see where it broken because of the small hole. It's solid! It's as if the whole thing just moved back about an inch and a half... I texted both the old and new starters with jumper cables, and the make certain, I took them to the local parts store and they also texted them. While both of the starter were fine, I'm not!
View 4 Replies
The starter in my '93 Dakota was dying (usual signs of worn brushes) so I replaced it with a new one from AutoZone. The starters looked the same, and after calling back to double check the part #, the store swears it's the right part. However, when I engage the starter, it spins but the pinion gear doesn't engage the flywheel. I can't see how I could have installed it wrong - the two bolts seem to have only one place they can go.
View 19 Replies
In a matter of weeks, my truck destroyed two sets of flywheels and starters. When the ignition key engages, the engine "jumps back?. Apparently, this causes the starter and flywheel teeth to grind. My mechanic cannot determine the cause of the "jump back". He thought that it might be the timing. His examination and testing, however, proved the engine properly timed.
View 6 Replies
I have a 2001 supercab 4x4 with a 4.6 in it, it has 186k on it and the only issues I've had was a misfire not to long ago. I replaced the plugs and coil packs and fixed that issue. 2 days ago she ran fine with no issues and this morning I went out to go to the store and she wouldn't start. All the dash lights come on and all of that normal stuff when you turn the key. When I turn the key I hear what sounds kind of like a clunking noise towards the bottom of the windshield and the middle of the dash. The starter does not engage, no nothing, really confused here. I thought maybe the battery was bad so I put my jumper on it and tried but again nothing happened.
View 14 Replies
Four months when you tried to start the vehicle sometimes you will hear the starter. Drive in gauge but not meet the flywheel. Sometimes it would take three or four tries to turn over the engine. Yesterday went out to start the engine turn the key nothing happen no noise nothing but all the lights were working OK..
The repair shop said it was not the starter but flywheel missing teeth. But they said the main thing wrong is a need of new battery terminals. They change them in the truck started fine last night Today when my wife try to start it then come home saying thing happen nothing no sound, no nothing. Am I dealing with a bad starter solenoid perhaps or a combination of a bad flywheel??
View 1 Replies
I have a problem my slave cylinder went out on my f150 so my buddy and I decided we were going to fix the problem. But while I was in there I figured I would replace the clutch, pressure plate, bearing, rear seal, and obviously the cylinder. When I was putting the flywheel on the "first time" i must have stripped out 3 holes because of not having the flywheel properly aligned. So I tapped out the holes to clean up threads and when we finally aligned the flywheel on the crank to right position I went to go torque down all the bolts three of the bolts would just keep on spinning in the hole. Now keep in mind I replaced all the old bolts with brand new ones from the dealer. What can I do to fix this problem I need my truck back asap!!! Can I go to a longer bolt to hit good threads or what do I do? I'm worried about my motor going out of balance if I mess something up here!!!
View 6 Replies
I have a 2005 F350 w/6.0 turbo diesel. Had starter replaced last spring. Went to store recently, came out & truck starter would just wind and whine, no flywheel engagement. Mechanic replaced Napa starter under warranty and now the starter whines when just trying to connect the battery(s) without even turning the key. I did try several attempts at starting truck when stranded at the local store, with no results but starter whining. Could I have created a dead short some where, and where would be a good place to start?? How do you get a schematic of the starting system?
View 2 Replies
My 2003 Ford F250 superduty diesel wouldn't start. It was a cool morning and I suspected a problem with the glow plugs. I checked the GPCM ( new in the last year) and it was fine, than I tested both right and left harnesses...they showed two out of range. After further inspection I noticed both my buss bars were completely rotted off with the wire and top of the glow plugs exposed.
Since I cranked the truck over so much, I removed the ground terminals from the recently replaced batteries and put a charger on overnight, I also plugged in the block heater since the glow plug system is suspect. I went out the next morning, re attached the batteries, and turned the key. The fuel pump and injectors cycled as usual, than I turned the key to start....nothing....no click...no sound.
I disconnected the starter trigger wire and touched it to the positive post.... a few sparks but no click or engagement. I jumped the solenoid...again a few sparks...but no engagement. I removed the starter (less than a year old, and not a lot of use) and had it bench tested, it tested fine. I re installed the starter, and cleaned all the terminals and connectors through the the system, still nothing.
I checked the cable from the battery to the large terminal...12 volts, I had my wife try to start the truck and checked where the trigger disconnects on the fender and at the solenoid....12 volts when the key is turned to the start position. I used a jumper cable to run power from the battery to the solenoid...nothing, I ran the jumper cable from the ground terminal on the battery to the starter case...nothing. I checked all the fusible links and found a broken wire from chaffing, I repaired it ( but I think it was what was causing my battery light to come on for the last few months) even though the alternator, batteries and everything going else checked good.....nothing. I checked the starter relay...it checked out good, as well as the ignition fuse.
View 14 Replies
Batteries charged, connection & cables checked. After turning ignition switch, gauges on dash jump around & starts clicking in fuse panel. Top left relay then clicking sound from beside steering column on right side next to trailer brake box. Been having electrical issues & something draining batteries...had absolutely no cold start this winter. No decent mechanics here other than to be ripped a new one @ local dealership.
View 1 Replies
This issue has been happening for a few weeks now since it has been around -10C here. When I start the car it starts just fine but then the starter grinds against the flywheel (same as if you tried to start while car already on). I did a quick search and found that the relay may be faulty, Car is at 87000 kms.
View 5 Replies
I have a Chevy Tahoe 1999, Went to the store came out my Tahoe wouldn't start i had it towed home. My husband said the starter was clicking but wasn't getting enough power to turn the flywheel. We got a new starter put it on and it clicked just like it did when i tried to start it before. We took the new starter back and had the old one tested and it was ok so we put it back on and it still clicked like before. He said the flywheel was easy to turn, then he replaced the hot wire from the battery to the starter, now the starter don't even click.
View 17 Replies
I have a 2001 Santa Fe 2.7l automatic. I recently changed out the automatic transmission (transaxle) as the old one had died. Now the starter motor plunger is not disengaging quick enough on start up and a screaming noise is made as flywheel turns as engine first turns over. I have just put a new starter motor in with exactly the same (screaming) result. The flywheel looks to be in reasonable condition as I inspected it when being put in, no teeth mangled and all teeth there. The transmission replacement was from a wrecked vehicle, I was told from same model vehicle but maybe a 2003 Santa Fe.
View 1 Replies
Pulled 3 starters at the junkyard to replace one that has a bad solenoid. Have a 2002 Buick Regal LS with 3800 series II engine. Found some on 3100 engines and one from a 3800. My starter has about 10 teeth on the gear that engages the flywheel. Some of the ones I pulled had smaller gears with only about 8 teeth.
Why the difference? Also one GM Delco starter was slightly longer (about 1/2 inch) than mine and had a small black hollow tube about 1 inch long at the rear of the starter and at the bottom. It fell off when I touched it. Looks like it might be a drain hole in case some water gets in to the starter. What is this really for?
View 1 Replies
I have 2003 Saturn Ion that will not start. I did test on the starter and battery and everything work fine. When I turn the key to start, the starter relay clicks alright but there is no power going through the starter trigger wire to engage the starter; I have checked the starter trigger wire, all the fuses, and all the relays, but there is no power in the trigger wire. Why there is no power in the starter trigger wire when the key is turned to start to engage the starter so that the car will start.
View 10 Replies
Background: My starter was grinding when cold. So I put in a new (used) starter. Still grinding. Had the battery load tested before starter swap, test said everything OK.
New thing: At the posts the battery reads 12.4 volts. But at the starter solenoid and other places on the positive wire it reads anywhere from 3 to 9 volts. If I leave the multimeter on it the voltage will swing back and forth and all over the place between about 3 and 9 volts in the space of 5 seconds.
Where the voltage might be going? Bad ground? Could this be what's causing the starter to stick? Related at least?
It's a 2003 PT CRUISER non-turbo.
View 6 Replies
I have a 03 4x4 5.4lt supcab with 154k miles. I replaced the shift motor about 40,000 ago but it has always been tempormental like I had to engage it in 4lo in N and then shift to 4hi to keep it in 4hi. Now fast forward to today. Went to shift to 4lo in N and it didn't shift. I only heard the relays click once and then it wouldn't shift into any gear even though the indicator was on PRND123. Didn't matter.
Also, Park didn't engage and the speedometer acted like it was engaged in RN and D. No movement what so ever. I think it might be the shift motor that shifted part way and is stuck in between gears. Is this possible? I drove fine to the dirt road and I haven't had problems other then the shift motor being touchy. I don't want to pay for a new tranny if it might be the shift motor.
View 5 Replies
I have a 2003 F150 5.4liter 4x4 and when it is cold I can not get the 4x4 to engage. It is a manual shift for the transfer case not electronic. It shifts but does not activate the 4x4 when it is cold. The 4x4 does work when the temp is about 30 degrees or better. Where to start?
View 1 Replies
I've got a problem with my 4x4 not engaging. I've been ready and re-reading all the related posts and threads and am still confused. Here goes. Early in the fall I had no problem shifting in or out of 4wd. Then when it got well below freezing up here, it stopped working. I had it in a warm shop and all of a sudden it worked fine. After sitting outside again it wouldn't work.
When it was warm, I had no problem shifting in and out of 4x4, dash lights functioning as normal. As it got colder it only seemed to work if I really pulled quite hard on the stick and the 4Low indicator didn't work but 4Low was obviously engaged. Now after another day or two outside, nothing happens at all. When the diff does engage, shifting out of 4x4 is never a problem.
Transfer case seems fine as the front drive shaft turns when I shift into 4H and drive forward. After researching a bit, I crawled under and pulled the blue line off the actuator and had someone shift into 4H, I couldn't feel any vacuum so figured it must be the engage solenoid especially since, shifting out of 4x4 is never a problem.
My question now is, shouldn't the lights on the dash be on even if the solenoid isn't working? I am now starting to wonder if its the sensor switch on the transfer case but I don't see how freezing should affect the switch and would think I'd have issues shifting out of 4x4 as well as in. If I put it in 4X4 and test for current at the solenoid and it is there, can I assume that the switch is fine and the problem is in fact the solenoid?
View 2 Replies
