Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Grease Points On Truck?
Nov 27, 2016
What are the parts of the truck that should be greased? I'm about to do a front, transfer and rear differential fluid change..
View 2 RepliesWhat are the parts of the truck that should be greased? I'm about to do a front, transfer and rear differential fluid change..
View 2 RepliesI recently bought a 1997 F150 4wd 5sp manual. While changing the fluids, I noticed that the front u joint on the rear drive shaft has a grease fitting. No matter how I rotate that shaft, I cannot access that fitting with my grease gun, even when fitted with a flexible rubber hose.
View 14 RepliesHow many grease spots are there? I was only able to find 4 and those are to grease the slide pins for the brakes. I crawled and looked. No grease spots on our ball joints??? How do they expect our truck to last. I feel like everything is becoming less serviceable every year. My 1998 Lincoln Continental had more grease spots then my f350.
View 7 RepliesSo... someone smashed in the right front of my Honda Ridgeline about a year ago. Lot's of body work and parts of the steering infrastructure replaced. In for service and they say that the right-front inside CV joint leaking grease. Insurance, no problem we'll replace the axle. Had it done at the dealer, about 2 weeks ago. Since the, I have noticed a "creaking" noise from under the truck. Sounds like a metal on metal joint that should be lubricated but isn't. Only noticeable at very low speeds, stopping or accelerating. Maybe there other times, but hard to tell. Sometimes almost seems like a "clunk". FYI, I don't think this is it, but they also did a front brake job at the same time. 75,000 miles.
View 6 RepliesI just got this truck and everything was fine, until i took it out on the highway. there is purple grease spattered around the hubcap. I didn't do this during the test drive. It's the driver's side front wheel. It's pouring rain and i don't have a garage, so little inspection has been done so far.
997 Chevy S10...
When I want to start the truck dix nothing and I don't know why? I have to tell you that I have changed my tranny ...
View 3 Replies2002 Model, F150, 4.6L Triton....
Early last week one day my truck just wouldn't start. I had driven it the day before. but that day nothing. It would spin over just not start. the following day though, it started as always, no hesitation and run smooth. But the was the last day it has ran.
Since then I have checked the relays and fuses. I have checked the inertia switch (pass. side kick panel). Removed the cap on the schrader valve on the fuel rail. (no pressure)
I have sprayed starting fluid into the throttle body and it starts for 1 to 2 seconds. (dies once starting fluid is gone). I have changed the fuel filter and pulled the bed and changed out the fuel pump. I'm thinking about trying the fuel pressure regulator next.
Just not real sure where else to go if that doesn't work.....
I have a buddy that has a 1998 f150 4x4 with 4.6l and 332836 km on it. It will go in to reverse but will not go in to drive at all. Is his transmission shot? Or is there anyway to test it to find out what the problem is.
View 4 RepliesFirst of it's a 2003 with the 4.6. I replaced a bad alternator a couple months ago and all was fine. On the way home today the radio volume went quiet and all the dash gauges were dead. Truck died and wouldn't even try to start, no starter clicking or anything. A couple times the gauges did the "sweep" but still no start, not even a starter click. Barely even operated the hazard lights. Towed it home and hooked up the jumper cables to my 7.3 Excursion. Truck started right up and I left if hooked up for a couple minutes hoping to get enough charge in the battery to get it in the garage.
Unhooked the jumper cables, got in the truck and noticed the voltage gauge was reading nothing, tried to move it and it died. Hooked the jumper cables back up and let the Excursion charge it for about 5 minutes. Started, drove it to the garage (100ft) and backed it in. Noticed the voltage gauge was where it should be. Turned it off and back to run (didn't start) and the voltage gauge was reading good and it started right up.
Now, it doesn't appear that the battery or alternator is bad. Is there something else I should be looking at? I can take the alternator off and have it checked but don't want to go through the work if not needed to chase a ghost. Advance auto Tough One alternator BTW.
My son locked my keys in the cab of the truck. To complicate things, I have the Ford upgraded alarm which disables the keypad. And the real kick in the $^%, is that I only have 1 set of keys. I'm definitely going to have a couple of more sets of keys made when I get inside, how to get inside the cab. I live way out in the boonies and really would like to avoid calling a locksmith.
View 14 Replies1999 f150 4x4 the wife used my truck and had to use the 4wheel to back the truck up, now the truck is stuck in 4low.
View 10 RepliesA couple of weeks ago my truck wouldn't start. I replaced the crankshaft position sensor and when that didn't work I took it to a mechanic. At first it wouldn't start for him either. After move the truck inside he tried to crank it again and it fired right up. He said he didn't want to replace something if he wasn't sure what it was. Today it wouldn't start again. I bought some noid lights as suggested on line and tested one of the injector connectors and it did not light up. I realize that the injectors are not getting the needed "pulse". Whole thinking about what to do next I noticed that there was a broken wire. The wire is going to a really small looking box of some sort that is attached to the engine close to the injector at the front of the engine. What the wire is for and I am really not sure what to do next. I will try to upload a picture...
View 13 RepliesIf I turn on my ignition switch and my gauges go to where they're supposed to be, the truck will crank. If I turn switch and , lets say gas needle for example, the needle goes to full then drops back to empty, the engine will turn over but will not crank.
View 2 Replies1996 f150 sometimes it starts sometimes it don't. It is cranking over the starter is in gauging as well as the fuel pump I can hear it.... It's getting spark and I replaced the starter solenoid.
View 5 RepliesI have a 97 f150 that only blows heat and I am wondering if the blendor is bad or is it something else that is causing the issiue
View 2 RepliesOwn a 1997 F-150, 4.6 L, 4 x 4. I know it's old but it's in very good body shape, has been undercoated for years. I've only had it for a year. This summer it began to not start (intermittently). The dash lights all come on but the starter will not engage. Brought to my local garage, he changed the starter and the ground cable from the battery.
Was ok for a few months and now it's beginning to do the same thing. Brought it back to him, can't find anything. He did say that the battery is a bit weak, the terminals are spotless (I keep them spotless, coat them with white grease). I measured the voltage with the engine stopped and with it running. Stopped, the voltage is 11.94, running it is 14.87. This clearly shows that the battery is weak.
My question is would this cause the starter to not engage after 4 or 5 turns of the key and then on the 6th try, the starter turns over? I don't want to spend more money ($ 450) the last time and have the same result. If it's possible it's the battery, I'll replace it no problem.
I started having trouble with the truck only starting in neutral and it was a trick to get it to start even then. I bought a new range sensor, bolted her up (with alignment marks in neutral) and she's still doing the same thing.
View 8 RepliesMy 03 f150 lariat 4x4 (5.4 L, 60,000 mi, 6500 g.v.w.r.) cuts out when towing (3,000 - 7,000 lb trailer wt.s) mostly highway but also in town. Usually restarts easily and when I drop trailer , problem disappears. Same problem with different trailers/weights - no error codes on my OBD reader.
View 1 Repliesmy 97 f150 4.2L keeps stalling on acceleration. It ran fine this morning then my wife put 20 dollars of fuel in it and drove 30 miles to her destination with no problem. on her way back the truck started bucking bogging down and acting like there was a fuel problem but it didn't kill. I checked for codes there were none. I removed the fuel filter on the rail and replaced it with a new one. Now it will idle fine with no miss but if I give it gas it kills.
I checked the codes again there are none. I also checked to make sure there was fuel coming from the tank when I turned the key as well as making sure I heard the fuel pump kick on when I first turned the key.I am leaning towards water in the fuel,i didn't see any trash come out of the old filter, however I am not sure. I have a 175 mile commute to and from work.
OK changing plugs and boots on 2003 f 350 5.4 (I have a bad miss and mis-fire code) First time messing with these things. When taking out the coil over plugs it looks like somebody put die-elect grease up underneath the boot at the top where the spring and the metal prong touches together. I thought I just needed only to grease the plug on the sides to keep the boot from sort of melting onto the plug. And some boots had maybe a drop of water in them is this common or any concern? Might be condensation and water does conduct elec, so not that concerned, but these C-O-P's are new to me and thought I'd ask. I've searched here and read posts about changing of the plugs and C-O-P's but don't remember any water boot coming up.
View 6 RepliesI just picked up a 1999 F150 5.4 with around 19k miles on it. Truck is in mint condition, stored in a heated garage since new. Before we made the deal I checked everything out pretty well including checking all the fluids, test drive, other usual stuff and didn't notice anything out of the ordinary. However, today I went for a short ride with the windows down I noticed a random pinging noise from under the truck. At first I thought it was a few small rocks bouncing off something metal under the truck, however it continued to do it randomly for the next 5 minutes. I would say I hear a ping every 15-20 seconds randomly. Doesn't matter if it's idling or under load, happens about the same either way. Aside from this, truck starts and rungs great and no error or warning lights have kicked on.
When I got home I started the truck back up and climbed under to see what it was. I found that the noise is coming from the exhaust system, mostly heard at the catalytic convertor. It resembles the metal expanding kind of ping, but I think its actually originating at the engine and the noise is just carrying through the exhaust system. I then went back to the engine bay and could hear the same random ping, just much quieter. I don't know the condition of the fuel, but based on the low miles I haven't ruled out a bad tank of gas. Only other issue with the truck is there is a bit of rust and corrosion on the inside of the exhaust tips and up into the exhaust pipe. They are still shiny and silver on the outside, just a little rust buildup on the interior of the exhaust. Hoping it's just the last 1' or so that is rusted