What that means? The check engine light is NOT on but I looked for a code because my truck is idling rough, and when driving, when the overdrive kicks in, it vibrates really bad. As if a bad U-joint on your drive shaft. The truck has been in a field for about 5 months broke down so any clue? Haynes manual says nothing about P1000.
View 13 Replieshere is the full story. just gotten truck out of the shop for a lower end rebuild and diff rebuild, truck set for about 5 to 6 months with no battery or motor. Engine runs great! besides a P1000 code.
I can drive down the road and can't go no faster then about 40mph without going to or over 3grand on the tac. I took it to auto parts store and gotten codes for both shift sol. and found out that the internal wiring harness was bad, and replaced it today. and cleared the codes. left parts store truck went shifted to 2nd and started to seem like it was going to go into 3rd then the rpm's went up like I was getting on the pedal when I wasn't and now it is going the same thing again. but took it back to parts store and checked for any codes and just got P1000 code and code about my speed sensors but they have been bad for a while.
I have received the error code P1506 on my 1999 F150 which is I believe an idle air control overspeed error. It seems to run a little rough at idle but not too bad. At the advice of my Haynes repair manual and the advice of a friend I have already replaced the IAC valve and the PCV valve on the engine and cleared the code, only for it to come back again after 50K miles. I am not sure where to go next with the diagnosis/fix.
View 1 Replies97 4.6.. So it would appear that I have the wild goose chase of codes. The major symptoms are rough idle and very poor performance. I started off by cleaning the egr valve and ports. Then I checked the egr valve itself and watched the valve open and close under a vacuum. I was suspecting the DPFE sensor but I wanted to trying something else first. I was under the Impression that if at idle you apply a vacuum to the egr valve it would cause the engine to "stumble and stall". I did this and there was no change in the way the engine was running. So now I'm lost as to where to go from here.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2006 Ford Ranger with the 3.0L v6. The check engine light came on and the code it is blowing is a P0171. It runs rough at idle or when I let off the accelerator and "fine" at speed.
The code told me to check/clean the MAF which I have done. Next on the list that I saw was the PCV valve. I disconnected the electrical to it and then disconnected the hose. Some oil poured out of it... not a lot but some... The valve still seems free, it clicks when I rotate/shake it and I can blow through it (I know, highly scientific). I can replace this (if I can find it, Napa and Advanced Auto don't have a part that looks like it...) but I'm wondering what else could be wrong.
Have this code Po155 oxy sensor heated bank 2 sen 1. I have replaced all sensor in the tail pips and check engine light code still comes on.
View 7 RepliesAbout 3 days ago I noticed my engine RPM was around 250 higher than usual. Usually my truck idles around 550-600 rpm (I know this is low). Anyway, yesterday it threw the P1506 "IAC over Speed Error" Code. It is idling very rough, shifting weird, but does crank up fine.
My truck is now at 93,000 miles and I just cleaned the IAC at 87,000 miles due to the common no start condition. I guess I am going to get a new IAC now since another code came up.
Well, my question is it came up with two other codes also:
P0171 - System too Lean, Bank No. 1
P0174 - System too Lean, Bank No. 2
Do you think the P1506 (IAC Code) made the O2 Sensor codes show up or is it really the O2 Sensors? I just changed my two upstream O2 Sensors around 90,000 miles. Should I get a new IAC or try to clean it again?
Looking for some experience/recommendations for the "what to do" and "in what order" for an error code. Recently the "SERVICE ENGINE SOON" light came on and has stayed on for the last 2 weeks. It has don this before after a heavy rain but went off after a few days but not this time. I took it to Advance Auto who hooked it up to a Trouble Code Reader and got back "PO174- Bank 2 system to lean". From what I've read from the Haynes book and other forum postings this is either a O2 sensor issue or a intake manifold gasket issue? Does this sound right? Next is how to go about addressing this issue in a systematic manner so as not "fix" 10 things that don't need fixing and not running to mechanic and paying a buttload for something I can do myself for less.
View 1 Replies1999 F150 4.2L 125K miles.... My problems started about a month ago. I had a P1506 error. The engine was running fine but received the error code. I replaced the IAC and the air filter. Engine still running fine. A week later I received a code for the Intake Air Temp Sensor (don't remember the code). The engine still running great. I bought a new Air Temp Sensor and noticed the wires from the Air Temp Sensor were rubbing against the belt and had been severed. I made a mistake when replacing the air filter of not checking the wires (confession is good right).
The engine also constantly ran a fast idle 2000 to 2500 at this time. I repaired the wires. The engine light went off and idle now starts great and smooth but when heats up will will go to 2000-2500. I then decided to replace the Air Temp Sensor hoping to fix idle problem. Engine still idle fast when warm. However, when I come to a stop and put in neutral the engine will take a minute but go down to normal idle after sitting. Engine light stayed off for a week. Now engine light back on with original code P1506. Idle is still not working correctly.
I feel like I made it worse than it was originally and not sure what to try next.
I'm getting the p1131 error on my 2000 xlt f150 5.4l. I know it's usually a vacuum leak on the pcv hosing, which I did have at the back and replaced as well as other softer joining sections(3 to be exact lol), but I'm still getting this error. Changed out my plugs and cops(as they needed it) and the back two plugs on both bank 1 and 2(plugs 4&8) were both white! Since this is an obvious indication of a lean burning cylinder can I make the assumption my most likely problem is dirty fuel injectors on those cylinders?
View 13 RepliesI was driving along today and my Check Engine light came on. I stopped at the nearest Advance Auto to have them pull the code and it came up with the P0420, Catalyst Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1). I asked what could cause this and they mentioned that the fuel that was put in could be causing it. They didn't mention any other possible causes. Any others? I'm thinking it could be the fuel because the last gas station that I stopped at and filled up at is one that I never go to, and maybe just got a bad batch of fuel.
View 14 RepliesI'm getting an error code 2-7 (flashes two times, pauses, then flashes seven times) when my truck starts up. It does this cycle twice then stays on permanently. It has only started doing this since last night when I replaced my factory tape deck with a factory Cd player from a 2002 F-150.
View 14 RepliesMy 4.2L died all of a sudden, it cranks but won't start. Checked the harness side to coil packs, pos. signal but no neg. Tried a code reader keeps coming back link error. Does this mean PCM is fried?
View 4 RepliesI just acquired a 2003 with 5.4 L. Did all new plugs and coils, cleaned MAF sensor, changed air filter, oil, transfluid and filter (obviously not related).
Upon start up and idle the truck has is rough, enough that it will vibrate the whole truck SLIGHTLY. Once in gear and warm, it smooths out and is fine. Unit the next stop and start.
I got a 97 f150 4.2l from my neighbor. he takes good care of his vehicles. he sold it to me cuz it started to idle very rough like a misfire. it is hard to start when cold spits sputters and pops. once started idles like it wants to stall, then will idle normally then back to rough. back and forth like that. runs like a champ when going down the road . check engine light was on took it to auto store they checked codes . said bad o2 sensors so i changed them. still same issue. neighbor changed coil packs checked spark plugs and wire. every thing fires good. i changed iac. still didn't fix problem. could this be a bad egr valve or sensor? if so how can i diagnose this? he also thought was a clogged cat and bored it out. tight budget can't afford to take it to a mechanic. Was told spray carb cleaner spray around engine to check for leaks that did nothing at all...
View 14 RepliesI bought this truck used and when it's in drive the engine idles rough and seems about to stall when the ac is on at a stop sign or red light.. I've tried it w/o the ac on and it seems a little better but not as smooth. Idle in park is fine.
When I should start looking? Spark-plugs? spark plugs wires, disturber cap, fuel filter etc...
97 chevy k1500 with 305, engine rebuilt by shop 60k ago, last few months only drove truck 4-5 times, last time driving gave p0306, new plugs, wires, cap, rotor, cleared code, now gives p0300, took intake apart removed spider, sprayed/scrubbed each injector and poppet with cleaner, but no way of cleaning the line between the injector and poppets. No change after cleaning. Also ran injector cleaner through tank. All vacuum hoses look in good order, sprayed carb cleaner around intake to check for leaks at intake/throttle body, no leaks.
Checked TPS, IAC, MAF, Coil and fuel pressure, all good except fuel pressure was 52-54 while idle, replaced fuel pump, screen filter and main filter, cleared code, rough start and rough idle still gives p0300. Checked coil with ohmmeter, between posts A & C, Chilton says 0.1 ohms, i got 0.5 ohms, went to autozone and had them check a new coil, it have 0.5 ohms......? Can drive at higher speeds and runs smooth, but idle is poor almost dies.Checked fuel pressure after pump replacement, still ~54 psi. Stumped and don't want to throw more parts at it without a proper diagnosis. Have a OBDII pocket scan tool, but can't find manual, will try to find manual and see if I can pinpoint the misfiring cylinders.
2000 Ford F150 1/2 ton 2x 5.4L... Last year, I started having a problem where when the temp dropped below 50 degrees outside, my F150 would idle really rough and sometimes stall out. The CEL came on and reported some codes that I don't remember but pointed to bad air/fuel mix. I consulted a friend and he suggested changing out the IAC. I did that just towards the end of the cold weather spell we were having and the engine ran great so I assumed it was fixed.
Well, the temps have been below 50 for 8 days now and ever since the temps dropped the problem has come back. I took it to AutoZone to have the codes read and they gave me the following:
P1151 - Lack of O2 switches -bank 2 sensor 1 : ECM could not adjust fuel trim because of a lean or rich condition
AND
P0171 - Fuel trim bank one condition : The powertrain control module uses the oxygen sensor to calculate the Air/Fuel ratio of the engine. The computer recognized a rich or lean condition on one engine bank only.
Both printouts that they gave me mentioned the following:
Poor fuel pressure
Bad or Malfunctioning MAF sensor - Dirty/defective
Oxygen sensor defective
Fuel injector problem - Leaking or fuel pressure high/low
Vacuum leak on engine
I again called my mechanic friend and he suggested cleaning the MAF and if that didn't work replacing the MAF. I cleaned it and the problem was better but still not fixed.
I have a 2000 F-150 5.4 L. I was driving from home and seconds after the engine went into a rough idle that wouldn't let me accelerate. I scanned it and gave me multiple transmission trouble codes, about 15. I checked the wiring, the transmission fluid and it all looked good. So, what could be the problem?
View 3 RepliesBought the truck knowing it needed a little work because it sounded like a diesel when running. So I had the timing chain, tensioners, water pump, etc. replaced and that fixed that problem. Then, a couple days later, a spark plug blew out of the engine. So, I go to do a full tune-up to find out that 3 of the 8 cylinders already had heli-coils in them.
I pulled those three and bored out and re-tapped the cylinders using the Cal-Van inserts. This has worked beautifully so far. I also replaced all of the other plugs as well with double platinum plugs. I also replaced all COPs. This got the truck running again and it drives great. No loss of power whatsoever. It just runs like a dog at idle. As soon as I give it throttle it smooths out completely.
It seems like the problem gets worse as the engine starts to get up to normal operating temp. Basically, if I am idling, in gear or in park, the truck shakes pretty bad. It kind of feels like it's starved for fuel or barely missing. I do not have any codes though and if it is a miss, it is completely gone under throttle.
Other things I have replaced within the past couple of weeks:
EGR
EGR vacuum solenoid
DPFE
Both PCV elbows
PCV valve
Air filter
Harmonic balancer
Other things I have done:
Cleaned IAC
Cleaned throttle body butterfly (including EGR ports)
Checked TPS voltage
I'm sure there are other things that I am forgetting.
The idle seems low to me but I'm not sure what is considered standard for the 5.4l. Mine idles around 600 in park once engine is warm and the needle doesn't move despite the roughness felt. Just going by the tach, you would think that the idle was smooth as silk.
Truck info:
2000 Ford F-150 XLT
5.4L V8 2V
150k miles
I recently picked up a 2wd 2002 F-150 with a 4.2l V6 that has just over 300k miles. The CEL is on and I'm getting P1131, P1151, P0316, P0305 and an occasional P0301. It has a very distinct misfire from around 1,000 rpm and smooths out between 1,500 & 2,000 rpm, the idle rpm occasionally bounces (sometimes enough to stall), and the idle is sometimes rough.
I have replaced the plugs, wires, fuelfilter, and replaced a leaking PCV hose. As I have changed things the symptoms have improved some but they are still there. While capturing some livedata it kept going out of CL and into OL Fault. When it would the idle quality was crap and the miss was much more significant. I would have to put it into D hold the brake and run the RPM's up to just over 1k to get it back into CL.
After I got done with the data stream at idle, I set the parking brake held the foot brake and put the truck in D then ran the rpm's up to around 1,200 & held it there. The truck stayed in CL but it would cycle between misfiring for 5 - 10 seconds then clear up and run smooth for 20 ' 30 seconds, every time it cycled there was an audible click that could be heard. Also, the AC was off the whole time.
Live DataStream @ Idle: CL
CalculatedLoad Value - 12.9- 14.1%
EngineCoolant Temp - 103degrees C
Short TermFuel Trim B1 - 32.8%
Long TermFuel Trim B1 - 0.0%
Short TermFuel Trim B2 - 32.8%
Long TermFuel Trim B2 - 0.0%
Engine RPM - 816 . 846
[Code] .....