Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Got Codes After New Engine?
Mar 26, 2013
We sold a customer a 5.4l engine and he installed it and it idles just fine, but falls on its face when put under load. Truck is a 2001 f150 and is not around here. Cus gave me these codes:
P0135
P1130
P0174
P0308
P0351
P0352
P1131
From all I have found, it appears to be a lean condition and cop #1 and #2. All of these codes pop up all at once after r&r ing an engine? I am thinking bad intake gasket and possibly bad coils.
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I got an 2001 f150 4.2l v6, 5speed. It started running real rough almost like it was hitting on only 3 cylinders I replaced the crank sensor and did a tune up on it along with a new coil pack and now it won't hit a lick the plugs are getting fire, it's getting fuel but, will not start it's not throwing any engine codes. Which leads me to believe it may have a bad ecm.
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I've got a 1997 F250 with a transmission problem that I've been trying to diagnose. The problem is I can't grab any codes from the truck. I took her to the transmission shop and they described to me the same problem I was having. Whenever I try reading codes with the engine off it fails, when I try reading codes with the engine on it stalls the engine. The transmission shop referred me to another shop that might be able to figure my problem out, but I'd like to leave that as a last resort. I've checked all fuses and relays and I have a new engine computer on order right now. However, I'd like to know if there are any other possibilities.
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So I have been having some troubles with my 2003 F150 4.6L ... Truck has been running rough and the check engine light was on so I decided to get the codes read and I got back P0302 and P0304, which from what I understand is a misfire on cylinders 3 & 4. At the same time I got Ford to do a little diagnostic and this is what they wrote for me:
"The connector for the number 2 coil is broken and will not stay plugged on to the coil and the number 2 coil is not working / replaced the wire for the coil still running rough removed the coil and plug. the plug was very badly fuel soaked started the vehicle to see if there was spark at the plug. OK. Suspect either a injector issue or a compression issue cleaned the plug seems better. "
So of course they quoted me for the works. They say I should replace the coils, plugs, and injectors??? I am pretty mechanically inclined and think I could change these things myself since I am on a budget. One tech told me is that the plugs can seize in these engines often and could scrap the whole thing??? Seems a little weird. If that happens though what could I do?
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2001 F150 5.4L Triton Motor. Everything seemed o.k. then got the Engine Service Light. Checked with reader and above codes only appeared. Read numerous articles/videos and pulled the PCV hose/boot assembly and replaced the whole thing with oem part. Visually checked for disconnected tubing = none found. After this and with the new hose assembly in place I performed a reset. With the scanner still connected restarted engine and read values: ST FTRM1&2 = -.08~+2.3, both oxygen sensor voltages are varying and the LT FTRM1&2 hang around +26 and +28.
From what I understand the ST seems o.k. but the long term is WAY OUT OF WHACK. Started it up again and took carb cleaner spray and covered all the connections I could see = no change in engine rpm. No cracks in the air cleaner body. Big plug to the MAF was inserted and plugging the hole. I am thinking of making a smoke "machine" and trying that or removing the hoses from the throttle body and plugging the holes in the throttle body and see if that clears them up. IF it does then connect one by one and keep checking the values. Lot more work but I am at a loss.
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Ive got a question for all you code readers out there. My dreaded check engine light has been on for about a month. I bought a code reader recently and checked it out. Two codes come up; PO401 and PO446. What these mean. My book says "Exhaust Gas Recirc. Flow Insufficient Detected" and " Evaporative Emission Control System Vent Control Circuit Malfunction". Which sensors, location on vehicle, etc..... this is a 97 5.4L Expedition.
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PCV hose/grommet was rotted out with 1 inch hole but supposedly he spent a long time tracking down the problem. It was located way in the back middle (like underneath the wiper blades area).
2002 F150 XLT Crew Cab 4.6L 4x4 170K
What known issues would do this but not turn engine light on? Motor sounds excellent and runs excellent. Previously it was missing and engine code come up as random misfire, misfire cylinder #2 and #4. I replaced the coil packs on 2 and 4 and erased the code and there was a 1000% difference. Ran excellent (still does).
However, a week later I noticed a subtle shake in the motor, and at idle it would stay at 1...maybe slowly chirp just above 1, and then sputter a little down to 1/2 rpm. It will do this and stay running, but sometimes it will cut off.
What are the possible things that you think it could be considering no check engine codes? (Bad motor?)
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I have a 1999 4x2 F150 XL, 4.2L engine, 5-speed trans., about 197,600 miles and have been getting P0306 and P0174 codes. The check engine light came on and stayed on. Also, pretty much randomly, my engine over-heats and the engine compartment coolant reservoir is suddenly dry as a bone. I bought the truck new and this has only happened twice, during normal driving.
Clearing the 0306 and 0174 codes. Not sure what to do about the over-heating thing.. What I've done so far to try to clear the codes is the least expensive stuff:
=> Replaced both forward O2 sensors, have read where the two rear O2 sensors don't necessarily need to be replaced so I haven't replaced them yet. The sensors that came off are Bosch, as are the ones that I bought from Autozone and installed.
=> Replaced old spark plugs with Motorcraft brand, gapped to 0.054 in.
=> Replaced old spark plug wires with Motorcraft spark plug wires.
=> Cleaned the MAF sensor
=> Replaced PCV valve and replaced an section of elbow hose near it. The original elbow had a big hole right at the 90-degree bend, on the inside.
=> Replaced a cracked, dried-out, vacuum hose coming from the evap cannister purge valve and going to the front underside of the upper intake manifold.
=> replaced fuel filter.
After doing all this, I took it out on the road long enough for the computer to wake up and relearn and got the check-engine light again. Only this time it was flashing. I gather from reading in this forum that a flashing CEL is worse than a constant-on CEL so I drove back home and have yet to take it back out.
After reading about problematic ignition coils, I followed a procedure in my Haynes manual to check mine out:
=> Verified the correct resistance values at the electrical connector (0.7 ohms),
=> Verified battery voltage is present at the harness side of the electrical connector (about 12.6 volts),
=> checked the resistance values between the three sets of 'towers'. Starting from front to back, the resistance readings were 13.06 kOhms, 13.12 kOhms, and 12.98 kOhms. The correct range in the Haynes book is 6.5 to 11.5 kOhms so I thought maybe my ignition coil was bad.
I located a Motorcraft ignition coil at a local O'Reilly Auto Parts store, went there, and was able to check the resistance values on that new one. Turns out the resistance on the new one at the parts store is pretty much the same as that on the one on my truck (all three coils were 13.something kOhms), so I haven't replaced the ignition coil. I guess either my Haynes book is probably incorrect or the ignition coil on my particular F150 has different resistance values than the rest of the vehicles covered by that manual.
Next things I'm looking at replacing:
=> egr valve and the associated line to the DPFE sensor. (DPFE replaced a few years back, as a result of a P0401 code)
=> iac valve
=> upper intake plenum gaskets
I'm kind of at a loss at this point. I hate to just continue replacing things without knowing that I'm replacing the right things.
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I have a 99 f150 with the 4.2l v6 with a 5 speed 173000 miles. I picked it up not to long ago. When I first got it it had both the P0171 & P0174 lean on bank 1&2 it was also siting for a while. I replaced the fuel filter which was filled with black fuel, also changed the PCV valve, cleaned the MAF sensor, and changed the oil. I cleared the code, drove it for a little bit and the light came back on after 20 miles.
I then proceeded to replace the upper and lower intake manifold gaskets. Upon doing that i noticed that i was missing one of the linkages for the IMRC. I went to the junkyard and pulled off another linkage rod off the same motor. ordered new plastic clips, put the IMRC on cleaned everything up and began putting it back together. I also cleaned the Injectors while i had them out as well and put in new spark plugs and wires.
Put everything back together. code was cleared since the battery was disconnected. drove it and then the engine light came back on again. this time it was only the p0174. so i then both the upstream and downstream O2 sensors on bank 2, reset the code and it came back on again. I'm lost.
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1997 f 150 4x4 5.4 right now has a 145k miles.
About a year and half ago (120kmiles) the check engine light came on, checked the codes; 1 left bank to lean. 2 right bank to lean. Cleared the codes drove for about 3 weeks and the light came back on same codes, cleared the codes, drove for about 3 weeks and the light came back on, this continued with shorter times between the light coming on. Did this until sept 2012 took it in and Ford replaced the MAF, all good until today Jan.8, 2014. The light came on today I checked the codes 1 left bank to lean. 2 right bank to lean, cleared the codes today, the light staying off for right now. My best guess is that the MAF is again bad, my question is; how long does a MAF last, why would it fail in just over a year? What can I do to make the the MAF last longer.
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The check engine light came on in my truck and while I suspected it was a misfire (driving along it will misfire like crazy at certain RPM). What I cannot figure out is exactly which coil is causing the problem. I get these codes:
P0306 - Cylinder 6 misfire --> Easy enough, cylinder 6
P0356 - Ignition Coil F Primary/Secondary Circuit --> Which cylinder is this?
P0356 - Ignition Coil G Primary/Secondary Circuit --> Which cylinder is this?
Assuming that cylinder 1 is the front left (when facing the vehicle) am I right in that cylinder 6 is the 2nd from front on the right (when facing the vehicle)? Would Ignition Coil F also be on cylinder 6? and therefore ignition coil G be cylinder 7?
The other code I am getting are both the same:
P1740 - Powertrain
P1740 - Powertrain - Transmission System Problems
I suspect these 2 are related to one another, the odd piece is it drives fine other than the misfire. Hoping to cure the misfire so that it drives smoothly and I can then figure out the P1740 code.
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My scenario: 2000 F150 4x4 Supercab 5.4L 161k miles. Codes on my scan are P0113 intake air temp sensor 1 circuit high. P0102 mass air flow volume low. P0305 cyl 5 misfire. P0307 cyl 7 misfire. The 1st code I'm unfamiliar with sensor location? 2Nd code i replaced air filter, removed MAF sensor for cleaning and it appears to have only 1 heating wire or filament. Shouldn't there be 2? Plugs were changed approx 15k ago however COP's were not. Should that be my first remedy for 305&307, new plugs and coils? Also what is next sensor in line between MAF and throttle body? Is that the sensor from code P0113?
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Ok, did a quick search, found nothing. Is there a way to get CEL codes without a reader on '01 F150? I know the way on 80's stuff, is there on newer stuff?
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Truck has been running rough and the check engine light was on so I decided to get the codes read and I got back P0302 and P0304, which from what I understand is a misfire on cylinders 3 & 4. At the same time I got Ford to do a little diagnostic and this is what they wrote for me:
"The connector for the number 2 coil is broken and will not stay plugged on to the coil and the number 2 coil is not working / replaced the wire for the coil still running rough removed the coil and plug. the plug was very badly fuel soaked started the vehicle to see if there was spark at the plug. OK. Suspect either a injector issue or a compression issue cleaned the plug seems better. "
So of course they quoted me for the works. They say I should replace the coils, plugs, and injectors???
I am pretty mechanically inclined and think I could change these things myself since I am on a budget. One tech told me is that the plugs can seize in these engines often and could scrap the whole thing??? Seems a little weird. If that happens though what could I do?
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My 2003 F150 4.6 wouldn't pass emissions testing last week due to the OBDII not being ready to test. I knew that would happen as I had just reset the code (I get a CEL anytime after a heavy rain - I think it is a bad coil coming). After I reset and drive for a while, I don't get any codes and everything is ready but the EVAP.
I reset the computer on Friday. Let it sit overnight. Filled the gas tank Saturday. Sunday I drove a 200 mile round trip. Ran the cruise control at 60 for a good 50 miles. I did some local running around. All things that should have/could have triggered the EVAP system to run.
Where is the best place to start looking for problems? I changed the gas tank a couple years ago and I think everything is tight on it. Should I just change the gas cap in case it is the culprit?
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I have a 1999 f150 4.2l that the abs light comes on going slow, under 25mph. Replaced speed sensor still there. Hook up my scan tool and get connection error. Only in abs mode. Check fuses and power point's. Scanner works on a buick fine.
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Just put a cold air intake on my 99 f150 with a 4.6. its a CAI with a 4" tube and its not an oiled filter. there is NO vacuum leaks, the mass air flow sensor is clean. I am getting the codes 171 and 174 now and i know its from the intake because that's when it started running lean. Is there any way or anything i can adjust to fix this other than buying a 300 dollar programmer?? If I take it to a ford mechanic will he be able to fix this?
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I have a 1977 f250 460 with c6. As far as I now everything is stock on the motor. The carb is a motorcraft but I cant see what model it is, there is a ID tag that I need to get the numbers off of so I can see what I have.
I don't know much about carbs so I'm trying to learn as I go, but what has me wondering about the secondaries is going up inclines. We have a canyon that is a decent grade and long, I was towing a empty flatbed trailer and with my foot all the way down could never get it above 40 mph it just felt like that was it. I have been out playing with no trailer and it feels like I can get them to open up when it down shifts, but cruising along at 55 and stomp it nothing.
I am worried about pulling our camp trailer with it and that is the main reason I got the truck with a 460. What to check?
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My buds 2003 4.6 liter stalls every time he takes his foot off the pedal. Runs fine otherwise, no roughness or anything, you just have to keep your foot on the thing to keep it from dying out.
We checked for codes and found none. I checked vacuum connections and they looked OK.
Is there an easy way to test the IAC or should we just throw a new one in and cross our fingers? If we do change it out, does the truck need to be driven around a bit for the computer to re-learn anything?
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The truck ran fine this morning and this afternoon I had trouble with the truck running at idle.
The idle is at about 450RPM in park. Runs smooth with no miss but if you bring the idle up and then let off quickly it stalls. Can stall while trying to idle at warm up also. Sometimes it will stall at a light but I think it is related to taking my foot off the pedal quickly.
There is no check engine light on and there are no codes. I have 138K on the engine now. Both air & fuel filter were replaced about a month ago as well as the PCV valve.
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Driving a 2002 f150 5.4 liter, 4 wd. 128k miles. Recently started driving truck after sitting in garage for 12 months. Started getting codes 403,316,171 and 302 Changed plug and coil on cyl 2 for 302& 316Also egr valve, dose removed and cleaned throttle body. Drove 20 miles and all 4 codes came back.
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