I have the P1518 code for Intake Manifold Runner Control. I can not seem to find if have the actuator itself only the electronic control which, I take connects to the actuator. Is the electronic portion the only thing that needs to be changed and clean the actuator butterfly with the manifold off, or does the actuator need to be found and replaced?
View 3 RepliesI have a 2003 F150 V6 4.2L, 171,000 miles on it. I have four codes on it.
#p1518
#p0316
#p0303
#p0136
I had a p1518 in november of 2012, had it repaired and its back. In the time that I had it repaired and it came back on (maybe a month and a half ago) I only drove the truck maybe 3000 miles, if that. Just curious if this particular part should have some kind of warranty either by the MFG or dealer since the dealer repaired it. Have a limited budget, trying to find out what I can fix on my own in a timely manner.
98 f150 4.2l imrc quits working after 30 secs or so. Valves are good,linkage is good, vacuum lines good, electric vacuum switch/valve on r/h side of intake good, power to that switch/valve is there, loosing ground from computer??? What tells the computer to operate these valves?
View 9 RepliesLast week my service engine light came on. Friend checked it with his code reader. Got a P0402 code insufficient flow EGR valve. I have read several different threads on this subject on another Ford truck forum, slightly confusing me. Should I trust the code and just replace the EGR valve or do a number of other things that
1. Clean the throttle body first?
2. Test the EGR valve by blanking it off?
3. Test the DPFE valve?
4. Replace the DPFE valve instead of the ERG valve since the EGR valve rarely goes bad?
5. Only get OEM parts since after market parts do not last?
2002 Ranger 2.3L, 5 spd, 108,000 miles
This has been from about 10,000 miles now. I have cleared the codes, sometimes it will go away for a day or two, but usually is back almost immediately. Finally last week I removed the solenoid and two vacuum lines hoping I would find a cracked hose like others have. No go there, but I replaced the vacuum lines anyway and dosed the vacuum ports on the solenoid with a little carb cleaner. Started truck up and revved it a few times, light stayed out. Next morning the check engine light was back on again.
Guess it must be in the actuator or the IMRC itself. Any success story about using some kind of cleaner to try to degunk this first (assuming it is stuck, that is...) without having to tear it apart?
I have a 2003 F150 supercrew 4x4 and I'm on my 3rd - 4wd vacuum actuator this winter so far. Somehow water is getting into the actuator itself mounted on the axle and then when it gets cold enough it freezes up and won't work until the heat from the engine thaws it out and then the 4x4 will engage.
Every time I've changed it I have found the part to have about a quarter cup of water in it. and can't figure out where the water may be entering these things. There also was no moisture in the vacuum lines when I blew them out.
I've been using the Dorman brand replacements from O'Reilly, they have a lifetime quarantee but I'm sick of swapping them out every month...
Whenever my A/C is turned on, it blows nice cold air. As long as the blower is on "1", "2", and sometimes ", it blows cold air. If I turn it to "4" I can hear a small "thud" behind the dash. It sounds like the blend door is shutting. All my functions work like they should. I think the actuator is goin out and isn't pushing the door all the way closed, and when I turn it to "4" it pushes it te other way.
View 5 Replies1997 Ford F-150 4X4 ignition Actuator Rod. Looking for instructions on how to replace a broken Actuator Rod? I know the rod is broken because the upper part moves and the lower part connected to the switch does not move.
View 4 RepliesTruck was running fine all day then as I pulled into the driveway the service engine light came on. Did a scan and code says , intake manifold runner stuck open bank 1. I was told they are at the back of the manifold but I can't even get a mirror in that tiny space. What is involved in reaching these two valves and how do I know which is bank 1?
View 1 RepliesI'm working on a 2003 Gmc yukon xl, which is the same as the suburban. Check engine light is on and the codes P0220 (TPS sensor) and P1518 (TAC throttle actuator control) are on. I've cleared both codes drove the vehicle all day, but when I shut it off and start it back up the two codes are back on and a message on the dash says reduced power, and there is no throttle. However if I clear the codes everything goes back to normal until I shut the thing off again and the 2 codes pop on and it says reduced power... Now I've cleaned the tps sensor electrical connector thinking this was the problem, but no luck.
View 8 RepliesI have a 2001 SD 7.3 Manual, in which either the rod or the actuator has broken. I can tell yet which it is. I can mover the lower actuator back and for but that doesn't tell me which part is broken. I have the parts on order to replace. I have been searching without success to find detailed instructions to make the replacement.
I run a small shop away from my day job but have never dug into one of these. Being the various small parts and sequence of disassembly/Assembly I want to do it correctly the first time. It's very strange how you can go to YouTube and search for everything under the sun with great results, except for this.
2002 Passat Wagon. My fuel door wouldn't open last week. Did some reading here, and found that I could manually push in the plunger to pop my door open. Great! Now I could fuel the car. I'm a bit bummed that there's no cable or some other way to manually actuate the motor. Maybe I missed it? I had to open the right cargo door and reach in and around a plastic tray to pull open the door.
Anyway, I grabbed the multi-meter, and tested the harness, while I had a buddy pull the switch. I'm getting 12v when the switch is pulled. OK, so that means the actuator is bad.
I need to remove and reinstall a new actuator. I'm not quite sure how to get enough access to get at the mounting bolts for the actuator. I assume I need to remove interior trim and molding to get at it, but I'm not sure how to do that.
The access door on the right side of the cargo bay allowed me to get my hands in there to pull the door open, and to unplug the harness, but I'm going to need to pull apart interior stuff to get at the motor.
Any pictures or directions on how to disassemble the interior trim to get at this motor?
I own a 2003 F-150 4.2 engine 2 wheel drive extended cab. I need finding an easier way to get at the O2 sensor connector on bank #2. I am having a trouble code of P0171 and want to check the sensor to see if it is working...
View 6 RepliesI'm looking for the location of the ECM in a 97' f150 5.4.. Also need to know difficulty on replacing it and is it what controls the windshield wipers and windows?
View 1 RepliesA few weeks ago, I received the triangle light in my 2007 Prius with 125k miles on it. When I took it to the dealer, they said that the hybrid battery needed to be replaced. A new battery was ordered & installed by the dealer, which took a couple weeks as the battery wasn't in stock. When I picked up the Prius this week, within driving it a couple miles, it was apparent the A/C wasn't working. I took it right back to the dealer who said they'd look into it. When the Service sales guy started it again, it made a very strange noise as well, which it never did before. The dealer has come back and said that not only has the A/C Compressor out but the ABS actuator is also failing. They are saying this has nothing to do with the battery replacement but both these items were working fine before having the battery replaced
View 1 RepliesLast week I broke the pinion and spider gears in in rear end. Well Im getting a used rear end rather than rebuidling mine. What is the gear ratio on the 97 F150 xlt 4.6l 4x4. I figured they would all be the same but my tag is missing on my diff and I was told by an auto parts store that there were a couple different ones.
View 14 RepliesI am needing to replace the selector switch for my 4x4 on my 2003 F150 Lariat FX4... I already have the new switch. Whats the best way to get in there to remove and replace the switch?
View 7 RepliesI had to swap in a new battery the other day, and I noticed that the positive terminal connector is broken. I don't really want to pay >$100 for a new cable right now, so any success story about splicing in just a new terminal ring or using one of the generic battery cables?
View 4 RepliesSo the story goes like this, my teacher was trying to scrap a truck that he had sitting on his farm so i got it. I've been using it for a DD for the past year and a half and not I'm starting to do rust repair starting with rocker panels. But, what i was really wondering is how involved would it be to replace the radiator core support? Main reason being last time i was under the hood replacing the pass side valve cover gasket i hit it and knocked a hole right through it so yeah I'm thinking is about time to replace it.
View 1 Replies2007 Prius here. A few months ago I had a similar problem. Basically when putting my hand on the door sensor, the doors would cycle through unlocking (noise, lights flash etc) without actually unlocking. If I keep pulling the handle after each attempt it seems to go forever.
The front passenger door also did not lock under any circumstance.
Took it into Toyota, they absolutely screwed me I now realize, $900 to replace a door actuator in that passenger door.
Worked fine for a few weeks. Then all of a sudden, problem started again. Just like last time, slowly slowly over the course of 2 months, it got worse and worse until today I could not open the driver side front or rear door at all.
Replacing lower control arms? I've read a couple places that you don't need a spring compressor. Anything else to look out for? 2000 F150 4.6L 2WD 288,000 miles....
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