Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Gauge On Dash Is Running High And Battery Light Flickering
Sep 6, 2012
Over the past weekend i noticed all the electronics having a slight "flicker", so I figured my alternator was on its way out. After replacing the alt with a reman, I still had the issue. Then, replaced it with a new new one and the issue still persists. I will be getting a meter to test later when my buddy gets off work. The gauge on the dash is running high and battery light is flickering. Is there something I am missing? I ran another ground to frame also.
2001 SCAB 5.4 144,000mi 4x4 ....
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This ID10T light came on last weekend, and I just started trying to fix this. I found this post [URL] ....., but this isn't my problem.
The alt is old, but tested good four times at Napa. Battery is three years old, and it's holding good charge. My scan gauge 2 is showing 11.4-11.6, and I'm guessing this is what's throwing the code, although there isn't an actual code.
I don't have the money to go just start replacing parts, and I need this truck for next weekend, 10/3/15, so I hope to find something by then.
At 2000rpm the SC2 is still showing 11.6 volts, so would it be the charging system? Volt reg? Something in there is clamping the voltage down. At 18 years old, and 250k miles I'm not afraid to put new parts into.
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195K, B5, 1999, AEB. The battery light on the dash is flickering...mostly off, but the light (battery symbol) lights up ever-so lightly...then off, then on...on for about half of a 45 minute drive last night. Voltage regulator? Alternator? The battery seems fine, as it turns over after a cold night...
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2003 - Just recently my battery light started coming on and off on the dash, and occasionally my headlights would turn off and come back on. Now the ABS and BRAKE lights flash and the headlights are still on and off. I have already scraped (not cleaned) most of the corrosion off of the terminals on the battery and tightened the connections...
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Just bought my first F150. 1998 XLT 4.6l automatic. 126K miles, looks like it was mostly garage kept. All power, A/C, etc.
Picked it up this evening, drove it home after dark. About a 30 mile mostly highway speed drive. Everything went fine, no problems, no hiccups......Until I turned on my last street, about a half mile from home. The battery indicator light on the dash started blinking intermittently. I didn't notice anything else, just the red battery shaped light blinking.
What would cause this, what should I check? I don't want a big problem when I haven't even transferred the title yet!
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Finish a job yesterday and go to start my 98 F-150...4.6 and get the dreaded click. All has been fine. Firewall relay clicking, so crawl underneath in the slop and snow and the main battery wire corroded off the starter solenoid. Go back up top and turn the key to run position, crawl back underneath and short that wire to the other main terminal that feeds the 12 volts into the starter. Truck starts right up. That gets me home, I found a 4 gauge lug in my electrical stuff, clean up the wire and crimp it on ( actually a smoosh with a vice-grip cause my crimper won't get in there and trying to solder in that position wasn't gonna' work). Replacing that cable and how hard was it to pull it out of that loom that it shares with other wires? I was thinking just run a separate cable in a new loom and zip tie it to the other loom? I was guessing it is 2 gauge? Looks like about 4' would be enough to go from the battery to the starter.
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I just bought a 98 F150 V6 Manual transmission 2wd truck. Its a clean truck and I'm liking it so far but its got a couple minor issues. Whats the point of buying a truck if you don't get to work on it??
The High Beams don't work at all. Low beams are fine. I've put new bulbs in, and fuse 16 in the passenger compartment has continuity. I'm suspecting the multiple function switch, because when I pull out to engage the high beams, nothing happens. The indicator on the dash doesn't come on, and the low beams don't turn off either.
The second issue is the coolant gauge doesn't read. When I turn the key to the on position, the needle on the gauge moves up just a bit, but it never moves after that. Anything to check?
There are a couple other minor things like the e-brake light on the dash doesn't always turn on, but I can deal with that.
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The truck I'm working on is a 2003 f550 with a 6.0, and 382000 kilometers. My service truck died on me couple days ago, while running. As I rolled to a stop, I noticed that my temp gauge on the dash dropped to cold. (Truck was hot). Tried starting, and I have a crank, no start situation.
After towing it to my shop at work, I hooked it up to my scanner, and found that the pcm will not communicate with the scanner (otc genisis). I have no injector buzz with key on, wait to start light comes on for an abnormally long time. I have 48.3 volts on the ficm,(4 screw), and haven't been able to find any chafed wires as of yet.
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I will start out with a little history of the situation. A little over three months ago my original altenator died with over 200,000 miles on it. I took it in and had it replaced (they used a refurbished altenator) and about a 1-1/2 months later is when the issue started. The headlights and dash lights will flicker and whenever they dim, the volt gauge will go down.
When the lights come back to normal brightness the volt guage will also go back to normal. All this will go on for random lengths of time as I am driving. I took the vehicle back to where I had the altenator replaced and they replaced it again under warranty. About another 1-1/2 months went by and the same thing started happening. I took it back to the same garage and this time they put in a brand new altenator. Finally about a week after this last visit to the garage the symptoms came back.
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I own a 1997 ford f150 V6 engine and I have problems with the electrics. I turn the key on and the engine starts up runs great but I then look at the gauges and not one moves at all the. No fuel when i have just filled up,no tep,no oil,no battery all read nil. I went a drive and the speedo reads 0 it does not move but the truck drives great. Could it be a fuse, does a fuse control the gauges, which one it could be. I have lifted the hood and under the hood on the drivers side there is a box with small and larger fuses.There is one that is very small and the colour is white that's blown. Would you no what that fuse is for.
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2000 v10 with 188400 miles. Everything runs great. No leaks. Oil pan gasket is weeping, but not dripping. Don't want to cross that bridge yet. Been towing a dual axle trailer with a little car on it quite a bit the last couple of months. Probably total 1,000 miles. Drove it up north which was a steep climb so it really had to work getting up the hills.
My question is, the oil light started flickering last night, and the gauge was also flickering from the L to normal range. It was jumping quite quickly. I put a quart of oil in it today, and the gauge never acted up again. So i think that ruled out the oil sending unit. The truck doesn't leak oil anywhere, at least according to the driveway. Maybe burning oil since I've been towing a lot? I checked the oil dipstick, but couldn't get a good reading. I can post pictures later.
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my 03 ranger 4.0l was working properly and all of a sudden I am having an issue. The battery light is on, and the volt gauge is just above L. With my multi-meter I am showing 14 volts on the output stud on the alternator, and 13.5 volts at the battery while idling. When I turn the lights/fan on I show minimal draw at the battery. Not sure if these are good checks but I figured a good place to start. Where/what should I begin checking?
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I just got this f350 6.0l and I experienced an electrical problem with the trans gauge, started flicking a lil then go all the way up to over hit and check gauge light go on and my tow light starts blinking..
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2002 F150, 4.6 V8, 140k miles. Oil level good, oil was changed 2 months ago.
Driving along one day, out of the blue oil pressure light comes on, oil pressure gauge went to zero.
Engine did not run hot, no bad engines noises that I can hear.
Upon restart, oil pressure will be up on the gauge for minute or so, then goes to zero and oil light comes on.
Asked around, some say oil pump, some say oil filter or pickup tube.
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Today my 98 Expedition just started at 50 mph or 3000 rpm with battery light flickering and voltage fluctuation toward high end of 18 volts. Battery is 1 month old. No problems under 45 mph or 2500 rpm.
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I have a 2000 Ford Excursion XLT 2WD with just over 155,000 miles on it, for awhile now My battery light has been on and off or it'll flicker and some times it will even stay solid. I checked the batteries and the alternator a while ago and got good readings from them. I just thought it was a code that never got reset. Well this morning I was driving it and I noticed that when I brought the RPMs over 3,000 the battery gauge would go up to 18 volts and the battery stayed on until the RPMs went back down past 3,000. It did this all morning until I got home and just for kicks I put it in park and revved the engine up to 3,000 RPMs, when I did nothing happened. I tried looking online for an answer and I called a few mechanic shops who all said it was my alternator. I want to make sure that it is in fact the alternator....
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I have a 2005 F 350 with a 6.0 Diesel! My heat quit on my wife and I the other night! I replaced some fuses and started the truck to make sure the heat was working and it was! So I thought while I am here I should replace some bulbs in the cluster that were out!
I took the cluster out, looked at the bulbs and they looked oK so I put them back in and put the dash back together! When I went to start the truck once I turned the switch on my gauges and lights started flickering on and off fast and all it will do is just click when I try to start it! I just had it running 15 minutes before this!
I went through all the fuses and if I take one of the relays out and turn the switch on all the lights and gauges seem to work right but when I try to start it, nothing! I replaced the relay and it starts flickering again! I had the relay checked at Napa and they said it was good! The relay was for the Powertrain module!
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Over the past few days the battery light has been flickering and at times staying on. In using the gauge cluster diagnostics, I am getting 12.4 engine off and 13.8 - 14.0 with the engine running.
Even when I'm driving with the battery warning light on I still get a consistent 13.8 - 14.0 (and I do have the headlights on, the A/C running, radio, etc).
Kind of scratching my head on this issue since it appears the alternator and battery are working correctly.
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2003 ford explorer 4.6L. This truck will start and run rough high temp low oil light come on and temp gauge is pegged hot. Oil gauge is fine though, checked oil its fine.
I checked coolant reservoir its ok.
If I shut truck off and restart it will run ok and rev like normal and then all of a sudden go into limp mode and will misfire etc...
What sensor seems to be the main culprit?cht sensor???
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My escape has over 200k miles. My battery light dimly flickers constantly when running. there is also a misfire that seems to correspond with the flicker. the faster i rev the engine, the faster the battery light blinks.
My battery constantly shows 14.1 volts. the battery is new the alternator has been replaced twice in the past 2 years.... I noticed when i use my rear washer fluid, it spills into the car on the passenger side kick panel inside the vehicle.
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Not mine, but the guy claims his trucks battery light and CEL are on with the key off??? He's battery goes dead (it is new) and only 12.3 volts running with it revved up. My inclination would be alternator, but how can those 2 light in the dash be on with the key off? He did replace the ignition switch.... nothing ...same condition.
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