1997 F150 xlt 4x4 ... When I shift the gear shift lever to below D (2-1) it blows a fuse and I lose instruments. Replacing the fuse is not difficult, just tiresome..
View 6 RepliesI just bought a f150 2001 5.4L crew cab. It has the O/D switch in the gear shift lever and the black plastic handle is broke. I found a complete replacement lever on ebay but cannot find any tutorials on how to replace this.
View 8 RepliesThe Speed Needle works fine. But...the Odometer part quit some time ago. I can't tell what my fuel Mileage is now. How to troubleshoot this problem?
Things that might affect this problem; Transmission skids loudly when going in and out of 4-OD. It could be the Torque converter clutch?
The Gear shift lever is sloppy. Doesn't fill me with Confidence.
Brake fluid warning light is on most of the time. Fluid level is up hi though. Driver door mirror control switch don't work in one direction Who on this Forum has a Switch for me?
So I drive a 19 97 F150 v8 5.4 4x4 and while on the freeway I noticed that my overdrive button was blinking on the shift lever. The truck wasn't driving any different than usual, so Im just trying to figure out what this means.
View 1 Replies4x4 wont work, when I shift the lever on the floor it doesn't engage so i bought two new solenoids.. didn't work, have power on both solenoid connections. If I unhook my vacuum lines from the solenoid, I can push the Actuator rod in making my 4x4 work. I've gone threw everything.. have vacuum, have power on my solenoids. Just nothing works when I shift into 4x4 on the floor.
View 3 RepliesI don't know what to try next. I have a short somewhere, just don't know how to track it down. I checked the fuse for the drivers seat and it was blown. I stuck a new one in and the thing blew as soon as I stuck it in. I disconnected the seat motors, plugged in a fuse and it blew again as soon as I stuck it in. How to track this down?
I don't see any worn or shorted wires under the seat. I checked under the passenger side kick panel per another post I found, but that looks fine. I don't know where to look or what to test.
My 03 5.4 the obd2 port isnt working i have tried 4 bluetooth adapters and a snap on scanner and nothing will connect to the ecm. im having problems and trying to read codes my check engine light isnt on but that don't mean anything. my truck is running really rich and blows a little bit black smoke when i rev it up after its been idling a few min and getting horrible gas mileage again. yesterday i went to start it and i had to crank on it 4 time before it finally started and then when i reved it up it almost died on the way back down but it caught itself. then today i go out and it starts right up and runs fine but its still running rich but i still cant get an obd2 adapter to connect to the ecm. I checked the fuse and its not blown my cigarette plug and the power port both work. i really dont know where to start in trying to figure out this problem. Right now iI don't really want to take it to a shop right now.
View 4 RepliesAbout three weeks ago driving. My truck would not shift come to find out it was a fuse that blew. Well I pull over and replace the fuse it starts right up I get about a mile from my house and it blows again so I shut off my x and then replaced the fuse. Will not start...
Now I am getting a Pats code 1:6 and my obd2 reader says no link on my x. It used to read it all the time. I am trying to figure out what I can check to fix this problem are there any relays. Oh also my check engine light does not come on when I turn the key but my truck does crank. does this mean there is no power to my ECU. I did replace my ecu and it did not solve the issue.
I have a 1991 Aerostar 2wd 3.0. I recently had freeze plugs replaced and the mechanic had to drop the tranny to get to some. Now the shift cable has come off the gear selector lever. I have googled everywhere and can't locate the procedure for reattaching it. My mechanic was doing the work on the side and charged me only labor for his assistant. He is at work right now..
View 5 RepliesI have a 1997 Expedition that every time I replace the #16 fuse it blows when the high beams are on. It seems that it happens only when in drive and accelerating from a stopped position. I wonder if it could be either the clock spring or the multi-switch cause the short. I checked the wires on the headlights and they are fine. Again the high beams work when the truck is sitting still and the fuse is new.
View 4 RepliesI think the gear shift lever is loose and so I get a no start every day or two. I remembered seeing somewhere here that there was a way to tighten up the grearshift lever to fix this problem. I did a search to no avail.
View 5 RepliesI have a 2001 Ford F-150 5.4L Supercrew that won't seem to shift out of 1st gear. This morning coming out of stop light on the way to work, the truck seemed to jerk when it was supposed to shift into 2nd gear. I was told by a friend that the speed sensor may be it?
So I took the truck around the block just so I can get a feel for what is going on. So the truck shifts into 2nd, but not past that. It seems that around 30mph the RPM's go up jump up quickly to 2k+ and no shift or increase in speed. I was reading up a bit on it and came across the possibility of a TPS?
I drove my truck 2 times the day it stopped running. The 3rd time I tried to leave it started moved about 2 ft, spit and sputtered and died. It had blown the fuel pump fuse. I changed it and checked the fuel shut -off in the cab, passenger side. It was not tripped. Tried to start it and as soon as I turned the key it blew the fuse again. I changed the fuse again and this time I changed the fuel relay and the switch in the cab. Turned the key and it blew the fuse right away. Went to AutoZone because they are close to the house described what it was doing to them and they said sounds like a short in the fuel pump.
I purchased a new pump put it in turned key blew the fuse, pump just clicked...I found this site and my son noticed a thread where it said wires under the cab are good for wearing through and grounding out. I looked and it did wear through one wire coating. We taped it up, put extra cover over it and now it does not blow any fuses. Fuel pump still just clicked. Took fuel pump back for an exchange.....same thing. Turns over but fuel pump will not pump fuel. What am I missing?......
I have a '97 F150 Lariat Ext cab, 5.4, 2Wd, 175K, a bit rusty but for the most part functional. Unit is parked for long periods of time.
3 - 4 years back the gear shift did not want to go into PARK and and the gear indicator was out of register. Unit would not start and I had to move shift lever to N to start. Fixed the two screws on shift plate/column per this site. Then 18 months ago same thing begin to occur but this time I used blue thread lock to hold screws in place. Still had to throw into park to get it to stay.
6 months ago shifter became very difficult to move and near impossible to get into PARK. When in PARK the interlock must have not been engaged so had to move to N or push lever hard into PARK to start.
Tired of this so I cruised the site and found several posts on taking dash apart, repairing a broken shift tube and or replacing bushings.
Battery disconnected, dash apart, cluster out, steering wheel still on and steering column still in position. Shift tube appears OK, i.e. not broken as in one post, bushings appears OK as there is no play or slop evident, but I cannot get the shift lever to move from PARK, period.
When the shift lever is pulled toward the wheel, a pawl on the tube causes a plastic or nylon arm to move about 90 degrees. It must be a stop or safety of some sort. I have not dug deep enough to see the shift plate with the two screws. At 75 I find it difficult to lay upside down to reach and hope I can get to them from the top.
Questions:
1. How do I get it out of PARK to check all things on shift tube and gear selector units?
2. Does the battery need to be connected for the interlocks to function?
3. Do I need to drop the column to check on shift tube items?
4. With a rusty trans, can the shift cable to trans connection be the problem?
5. What to look for, how to repair. etc.
I have a 2012 Elantra Limited with about 36000 Miles. I purchased this car used with 12000 miles. I commute to work about 90 miles round trip a day mostly highway. I usually average about 33 or 34mpg. Recently, my mileage has fallen to 22 or 23 mpg and I have noticed my car having problems shifting. When accelerating normally, 1st - 3rd shift normally. Once I get into 4th, the car won't shift into 5th unless I manually do it with the gear lever or play with the throttle. If I just accelerate it will go all the way up to over 6000 rpm before it will shift. There are no problems with down shifting. Once it gets into 5th it will shift into 6th normally. There are not warning lights on and it doesn't always do it so of course when I need to recreate it I can't.
View 26 RepliesMy 4r70w is having some issues. It drives/shifts fine in reverse, 1st and 2nd but wont shift past 2nd gear. Doesn't even act like it tries. No CEL. I dropped the pan yesterday and there wasn't any metal chunks or any other debris in the pan and only the normal fuzzes on the magnet and there wasn't even an abundant amount on the magnet. This is a junkyard trans that was put in before I purchased the truck (2001 F150 supercrew 2wd).
I've ohm'd the shift solenoids and they seem to be within spec (below 30 ohms) so i want to rule them out, but still thinking of replacing all 3 solenoids just to be safe. Also, the filter just fell out with the pan so I'm assuming that might be part of the problem. My next thing to check is the 2-3 accumulator and spring to see if its stuck or broken.
4R70W. This one is in my 99 F-150 with the 4.6. From what the previous owner told me this trans only has 13k miles on the rebuild and I believe him because the converter is bright blue and when it does shift right, the shifts are solid and fluid is very clean. Truck only has 98k miles on the body as well, so it's possible the truck did sit a while because my tires have a ton of tread on them, but they are dry rotted a bit (dated 2006 IIRC).
Issue: When the trans is cold (sat overnight) it will shift to neutral between the 2-3 shift for 1-3 seconds depending on outside temperature and then drop into gear. But it only does this for the first 30 seconds or so of driving, after that it shifts normal (although it does seem to hold gears a little longer than I would think it should on occasion and not upshift). I have only gotten it to do it once per cold start so it seems like once the trans gets any heat it's fine.
I was also thinking I was getting drain back and maybe it wasn't heat related so I dropped the pan, replaced the filter, fluid and pan seal (it had a small leak) and torqued the valve body. Two of the bolts were a little loose, but the rest were fine. Tightened them to spec and put it back together with no dice. Truck also gets pretty bad fuel mileage so I'm starting to think maybe there is some temp sensor screwing everything up?
I have a 2000 F150 5.4l 4x4. When I am going over 50 on the highway and I am in OD, if I let off the gas a couple of seconds later it feels as though the brakes come on because the truck slow down so drastically and when I give it a little gas it slams into gear. It feels as like there is a "gap" where nothing is engaged before it slams back in. This is a rebuilt tranny with less than 7K miles on it. I took it back once and they said it was the motor mounts. I had those replaced and still the same problem. I replaced the spark plugs 6K miles ago and the COPs 3K ago. There is 170K on the truck. I only drive about 8K miles a year.
View 2 RepliesVolvo Automatic 1992 240 - So, just started to back out of the garage and, all of a sudden, my gear shift got stuck in neutral and then started shifting without engaging the transmission at all. Pushed it back into the space and, taking a look underneath, I realize the control rod's completely detached from the lever in the transmission.
I can re-attach it, but it just comes loose again when I shift. It seems like something should be in there to hold the control rod in place with the transmission lever, but I don't know what because I can't seem to find any documentation on what everything should look like down there.
Attaching a couple shots, one with a circle around the area that's coming un-attached since the angle's a bit off.
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I have a 2011 Sonata with 4,000 miles. Recently, I have noticed that when coming to a stop, I hear a light thump noise in the center console area near the gear shift lever. If I put my hand on the gear shifter, I can feel it move ever so slightly at the time of the noise. The noise is very repeatable. If I take my foot off the brake and start rolling and then I reapply the brake (either softly or hard) it will make the thump noise. It is not very loud and can be drowned out with loud music, but if listening to news, it is very noticeable and annoying in city traffic, where stops are very frequent. I put the car up on ramps and looked underneath and did not see anything noticeable. It will probably require the center console between the seats to be removed.
View 14 RepliesSo the other day my 20amp maxi fuse for my fuel pump decided to blow, put a new one in & everything has been going good since. Is it just a fluke or is this an indication my pump is going out? I inspected wires off the pump & connections for corrosion & that's good, fuel filter is also new about 2 months ago & I always run #1 diesel with a little additive in the winter.
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