Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Front Left Rotor Is Warped And Making Chirping Sound As Driving
Oct 13, 2016
My front left rotor is warped and makes that annoying chirp chirp chirp sound as I'm driving. I hear it while the truck is driving and also when braking. I jacked up the front left tire under the control arm, removed the tire and caliper/pads, tightened the rotor against the hub with the lug nuts. Watching the bottom of the caliper mount as a reference point, I can clearly see the distance changing between the rotor and the mount as I rotate the rotor.
And I feel the resistance as the rotor gets closer in that spot. Is this simply a warped rotor? Or is something else causing this? I replaced the pads, rotors, front brake hoses, front left caliper and , still the chirp remains. The pins are greased and slide nicely. I also bled quite a bit of fluid out, since it was a bit dark compared to the new fluid. I checked for play in the tire, thinking maybe a bad wheel bearing, but found none. No other noises or symptoms in the front end.
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1998 F250 ld 5.4 4X4 4wabs. The front rotor was seized on THOROUGHLY bearing split apart (outer bearing and bearing "core" still attached to rotor, outer race inner bearing and sleeve still in steering knuckle), the bearing was fine fine until i tried to remove the rotor, any chance it can be pressed back together and saved?
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2002 Volvo S40. My son bought his first car. It was inspected a week before he bought it, and has about 50,000 miles. It seemed to drive fine when he purchased it, but after a few days, he heard a squeaking/ chirping sound (that seemed to be coming from the left front side of the car) when he accelerated. The sound stops when he brakes hard. He took the car to a mechanic who told him that he needed new brake pads (front and rear).
He replaced the front pads, but the sound persisted. He went to another mechanic who told him that the pads were not put on properly and smoothed the rotor. The sound decreased for a short time and then returned. The mechanic says that the rotor looks fine, but is now recommending that he replace it since adjusting the brake pad and smoothing the rotor is not working.
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I have had a thumping brake pedal for a bit and knew that I had a warped rotor. I suspected the right rear by the wear pattern of the disk. I purchased the parts and started the job to see...what the heck is the cable and assembly on the outside of the caliper? After FINALLY getting the bolts off...not a great placement of this extra assembly...I pretty much had to beat the caliper off the rotor. I was afraid of this...I will have to replace the caliper as it appears to be seized.
Now... what I would assume is the parking brake assembly? I have read some great info on the normal replacement of the pads/rotor...but what do I need to know about the cable and arms? Do I need to release the tension somehow? Does it need to be rigged? Is there a best way to do this?
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I have a 2000 Excursion 2wd. The left front wheel or something up front is making a rubbing sound when I turn to the right. Checked the brakes, they looked fine. Pulled front rotor off and replaced the wheel bearing just incase. Still making that same noise? I can't see any sign of something rubbing either on the frame, brakes lines, or control bars?
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I've put 6k on the truck since the dealership replaced the front rotors and pads but they started to warp a few hundred miles ago. I do have a lift and new 37" tires so I was wondering what rotor / pad combo works best for larger tires and towing. I was looking at EBC kits but I'm sure there are better and cheaper options...
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I'm getting a clunk sound from my Passat's front left suspension when making turns. I've found info on how to diagnose control arms and I plan to jack the car up tomorrow and check it out. But how would I diagnose a tie rod end problem?
My Passat has 53,000 miles on it.
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1999 F350 4x4 dually. Replacing brakes front and back. Rotors, Pads, and hoses. On the left front put rotor back on and torqued down hub nuts on rotor. Then caliper mounting bracket wouldn't fit back between mounting bracket and rotor. Loosened the hub nuts on rotor, and fit mounting bracket in place. Then torqued down the hub nuts again, and rotor rubs on mounting bracket and rotor/hub won't turn.
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I have a 2006 f350 PSD 6.0l that blew the turbo a few months back. Has 102k miles. I had a large truck diesel mechanic near where it blew up replace the turbo. Everything seemed to be fine but started noticing a chirping sound that would start at 2500 rpm but only with a load like pulling a trailer or going up steep grade. I have looked everywhere online to try to find something similar with no luck. The problem is getting worse and I need to find out what it is. Now the noise has gotten worse and it sputters after each chirp. It is now between 2100 and 2750. The more I push it on that rpm range the more it will sputter. If I push it enough that it down shifts, it all goes away and drives fine although seems like less power..
I am running the stock program and have changed the fuel filters, batteries, pulled off and looked at everything coming and going to the turbo and just can't find anything. I'm not sure if there are some other gauges I should be looking at while driving but I haven't found any that look like they show anything while it's sputtering and making the noise. Also I feel like it does not have the power it used to have before the turbo blew and was changed.
I also added a clip of the exhaust. I put the 5" turbo back AFE. I'm not sure it's sounding quite right. Seems to hiss a lot more than I thought it should, Don't know if it's related to my problem.
In the video I'm hauling a 14' dump trailer with very little weight in it. 2006 f350 lowres - YouTube....
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My 2003 F-250 5.4l gas started making a recurring clicking sound from under the dash on the left side. It started last summer and would repeat numerous times each time I had the truck out. It's the kind of sound the turn signal makes. Always 5 clicks. It stopped happening when the weather got cold here in Canada, but started again this week (maybe because of the the warm weather we're having). How do I troubleshoot what the issue is? If the headlights are off it also flashes the lights in the instrument cluster five times.
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The shop replacing my front tires advised me to replace my front brakes and rotors soon. I'm not a huge car repair person, but I remembered my father-in-law saying brakes aren't that bad to work with. The car is the "college beater" I bought ten years ago and I'm trying to keep investments in it minimal. I told the shop I would do the brakes myself. So I spent the weekend with the Haynes manual fussing with overtorqued lug nuts, rusted on rotors, tightly wedged guide pins, and outer pads that didn't seem to have room (not the piston side). Got everything assembled, bled the caliper that was disconnected, and took it for a test drive.
I got about 30 feet from the driveway before pulling back in. The front of the car was making an grumble sound and had an odd vibration like a flat tire. This was with brakes engaged and not engaged. The car stopped fine, but I probably didn't get above 10 mph. Is this part of the "bedding/seating" process? I put in new (cheap) rotors and pads. This afternoon I'll check to ensure the pads are in properly and aren't dragging on the rotor and that I have the wheels properly centered. Car is a 96 Ford Escort 2 door hatchback.
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The engine makes a chirping/grating sound while idling, sound goes away while accelerating. What could be wrong?
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My 97 f150 had been sitting for a while and after a few miles I could smell brakes and the left front rotor was hot. So I removed the caliper to see if I could free it up. When i push 1 piston in with a C clamp the other one comes out and visa-verse but I cannot push both in with 2 C clamps. When I push the brake pedal they both come out. Its like there is a check valve in the line. How should I go about trouble shooting this?
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I have a 2001 Excursion 4x4 with 35" tires and 139,5000 miles on the clock. After driving about 20 miles yesterday while running errands, I heard a "chirping" noise. Since I had just left a stoplight, I first blamed it on the Jeep Grand Cherokee leaving the light with me. It wasn't long before I realized the noise was coming from the Ex. I noticed the sound around 40 to 45 mph and while keeping the truck fairly straight. I caught some video/audio but didn't see where I could upload it.
The ball joints have greasible zerks so I know there are not OEM but, other than that, I don't know when/if the wheel bearings or sealed units have been replaced. Recommendations? Is it a good idea to go ahead and replace bearings, sealed wheel bearing assemblies, and seals to have a reference point and prevent damage or failure?
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I have a 2003 Ford F150 with a 5.4V8 Triton 4X4. The truck is about to roll over 200K here soon. I am feeling/hearing a vibration/grinding sound coming from the truck when I am moving slowly and making turns, either left or right turns. Seems to happen more so on left hand turns. I have changed all power train fluids and filter, and still does it. I do not feel or notice the vibration/grinding when I am going straight or at highway speeds. It is only when I am moving from a stop and making turns. How to diagnose, find out, repair, fix this issue?
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I have a 2002 Nissan Xterra SE (Silver). I have just a couple miles over 200K on her too! recently, I have had a chirping noise coming from the front left tire. It chirps upon rotating, as well as when i turn the wheel to the left. I only hear the chirp at slower speeds. Also, the breaks have been starting to screech, not a lot, but occasionally. Do I have bad ball bearings? Need new brakes? Both? Or is there a chance a rock is stuck up in there? The chirp goes away when it's wet outside, like after a rain!
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I just replaced my front brake pads and rotors. Car had no squeaking sounds before this. When changing the right front pads and rotor, the set screw that holds the rotor in place snapped on me when I tried to remove it. I drilled out the remaining screw and inserted an easy out / screw extractor to try to remove the broken screw. Screw wouldn't turn/budge and eventually the easy out snapped in half while trying to turn it. Here is where I fear I made a little problem into an even bigger one; I tried to remove the broken easy out by banging the back end (smaller end) of it with a hammer and screwdriver, hoping it would pop out from the front of the hub. No success, and continued using a lot of force to try to remove it from the rear part of the hub. Eventually I noticed the hub area by the back of the easy out bent a little from me using force from the rear to remove the easy out. I stopped there, bent the hub section back to original shape (didn't bend too much to begin with) and sawzawed off the protruding end of the easy out from behind.
After driving a few times I started noticing the squeaking sound coming from the front right wheel, the sound sounds like is in tune/harmony with the wheel rotation. As soon I step on the brakes, the sound stops. I had a similar sounding problem with a rear wheel a long time ago and it ended up being that the bearing needed adjustment. I know the front bearings are pressed in so they can't be adjusted. I am thinking the force used to try to remove the broken easy out damaged something with the hub or bearing or maybe the axle nut.
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I was driving on a short business trip and I noticed what I thought at first was clutch smell, and then I realized I had a brake overheating. I pulled over and the front right rotor and hub were very hot. The caliber not so much. I let it cool while I was at the meeting. About 1 1/2 hours later I jacked the truck up to see if the bearings felt bad. Seemed fine so I drove home trying not to use the brakes and the heat did not return. I replace the caliber with one from Ford, but the only lines I could find were from CARQUEST and they are made by Raybestos. I am assuming that these lines are made in China.
I have been looking for some braided SS lines, but can't find any for a 2 wheel drive dually with 4 wheel ABS. Where I can order some better lines???
I hated my old 1994 F-350 that had those Metal/rubber pins, they would mess up and overheat also, I thought that my 2000 would not have this problem, I was wrong.
FYI, about a month ago I replaced the rear pads, and changed all the brake fluid with Valvoline synthetic DOT 3. I installed Akebono pads on the rear and just today Akebono on the problem front side. Will change out line and pads on driver side later this week. I hope I got if fixed.
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Went and got new tires on the supercrew. Went going through parking lots or simply driving i hear a loud squeal like brake pad squeal. I put brand new wagner ceramics on the truck. Also if i turn to the left the driver side rear sounds like brakes are dragging against the rotor. Whats goin on with this. The squeal will happen between 10 mph to 20 mph and the grinding noise will happen if I am cruising or turning to the left. It goes away when i apply the brakes.
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I've had a rattling/clunking sound from my front left wheel recently so I jacked up that corner. As soon as the tire elevated off the ground the bottom fell inward. I could easily push the top of the tire inward and pull the bottom of the tire outward. Does this lead to a bad hub or bad ball joint(s)?
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Alright so I'm having a problem with my 2003 Ford Explorer. I've recently noticed that when I get to above 40 mph, if my steering wheel is straight, I hear a loud kind of grinding or humming sound coming from my left driver side front. If I am going about 65 mph, it gets even louder and if I crank the steering wheel to the left, that's when it really gets noisy but as soon as I crank it to the right, the problems gone. When I do hear the hummin sound, I can feel it in the steering wheel. I have replaced al of the tires and it didn't work. Also, the car slightly pulls me to the right.
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