Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Front End Rattle When Drive Over Rough Places On The Road
May 30, 2013
I have a 97 F-150 4wd and when I drive over rough places on the road you can hear a rattling noise. It also causes my truck to thud loudly. But also as I just coast at about 10 mph with the window down you can hear that rattling noise. Almost sounds like a washer sliding on a shaft or something. You can definitely tell something is loose in the front end when i hit rough places. We've jacked it up and tried to move the wheel and the bearings and ball joints seem tight.
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I have a 2003 Volvo C70 that I've owned since 2004. In February, I ordered struts for the front with all the trimmings, (spring seat, strut mount, bump stop, etc) from FCP Euro. The struts were Sachs 553-058, which are supposed to be as good if not better than the original struts. I installed them myself, meticulously following the instructional video FCP publishes on YouTube. Installation went very smoothly. Afterwards, I noticed a rattle/knock coming from the right front when I drove over a bump or rough area.
I took it to a local tire/brake place that I have a good bit of confidence. After driving the car, the guy says, "You gotta bad strut!" Called FCP. They sent me a new strut. I installed it and sent the other back. Sounded a LOT better—for about two weeks. Now I am hearing the sound on both sides. I took it to a very reputable Volvo mechanic, I have used since the warranty expired. He drove it, confirmed the sound was not normal. We put it on the lift and he checked everything on the front suspension and was stumped. He said there was nothing wrong with my installation, no problem with the suspension.
Okay, FCP has an unconditional satisfaction guarantee, so I could replace these with a more expensive strut for say $50 more, but is the problem with the struts? I would hate to have to do this installation again and still have the same problem.
'03 C70 Convertible LT110,000 mileswell-maintained, great-running car
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Well this just started. I only really hear it over road cracks with the windows open. There's no clicking while turning, and I can't really call it a " clunk". That said, I'm assuming it's the infamous tie rod/control arm thing that was supposed to be solved by the time of the B5.5. Is it possible something just needs to be tightened?
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This 960 is pushing 150K miles, is in good shape, and well maintained. I have replaced the swaybar links, and entire muffler system.Still, I hear clunking under car as I drive over rough road. My mechanic says there is nothing loose underneath. It's a sweet car and much fun to drive. With rear wheel drive it turns on a dime. How can I solve the annoying clunking noise?
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The front suspension on my 07 Accent SE has been crunching when I drive over rough patches in the road. The car is at just over 60,000 miles, and I don't drive aggressively. I'm planning on replacing the front struts, but I'm not sure which parts to swap out. I've purchased some Monroe struts, but do I need to replace the strut mounts as well? And are there any other parts I should change while I'm in there?
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The roads here in Maine this winter were especially awful with potholes and bumps. My '03 Ford Focus Wagon has recently developed a noise that I can't diagnose. The noise can be best described as a "rattle" from the front end when going over very small bumps/cracks in the road. It almost sounds like loose shocks. They are the original shocks and have 130k miles on them.
Big bumps are not a problem. Car does not bottom out, sway upon braking, or bounce when I put my weight on it and release. Several years ago I had a "creaking" from the front end and my mechanic replaced some bushings which fixed the problem. I originally thought this was the same, but it doesn't sound like that - worried it could be the struts but I want to diagnose it a little better before I bring it to a mechanic and just say that I have a front end noise...
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I bought this truck used and when it's in drive the engine idles rough and seems about to stall when the ac is on at a stop sign or red light.. I've tried it w/o the ac on and it seems a little better but not as smooth. Idle in park is fine.
When I should start looking? Spark-plugs? spark plugs wires, disturber cap, fuel filter etc...
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I have a 1997 ford f150 5.4 litre truck and the truck runs real rough kinda surging in park and in drive and reverse i have a couple oxygen sensor codes P 0171, P0174, P0136, P1131, P1151 and an idle air control valve code P1506...
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Can I do this without damage to anything?
'97 Expedition (but the F150 forum seems more mechanically incline, no offense to the Expedition forum).
I'm trying to find the cause of a vibration in what I think is the front drivetrain. I was almost positive that it was the front driveshaft universal joints. I jacked the truck up off all fours and took her for a spin. The noise seemed to be coming from the from u-joint.
I took the u-joints off and they were still nicely lubricated (after 230,000 miles). My heart sank since this probably not the root of my problem.
I'm surely going to put new u-joints in but think I'll get them from the dealer tomorrow (if the OEM stuff lasted this long, why buy aftermarket, even though it's the same stuff? I dunno, just my OCD kicking in.)
So, I thought I would take the truck for a drive without the front driveshaft today (in 2wd of course) to see if the vibration was gone. Can I do this?
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I am doing some work on the truck and need to get the front drive shaft to drop down, I have the four bolts out but I can not get it to move. What am I not doing?
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My t case will engage in 4 high and 4 low. so i know the switch and motor works because it go all the way to 4 low and i can feel the lower gears. BUT the front drive shaft is not turning because i know that the front diff is engaging just fine cus one I just fixed it and because when i put it in 4x4 the front drive shaft is locked in but when i take it out the drive shaft moves freely when i turn it by hand. But when I test it in gravel or mud the front wheels still ain't turning. So its gota be the t case. But what are the part that may be broken in the t case and if I can fix it wile its still on the truck.
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When I go over a rough gravel road, there is a rattle that is definitely in the steering column. How is this fixed? Is it a simple tightening of something? My Prius is a 2006 with 180,000 miles.
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so i had my fogs installed a week ago and today i noticed that when i drive over places that kind of vibrates the car? my fogs flashes. but other than that, they work fine. is it something i need to worry about?
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I have an annoying rattle the occurs on rough road surfaces. It comes from the front right wheel area but goes away instantly with light brake pedal pressure. Three trips to the shop have not identified the problem. I just read somewhere that there are "anti-rattle clips" or springs on the brake calipers. Is this right and are these the same as the retaining springs/clips that can be seen from the outside through the slots in the alloys wheels?
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I recently bought a 1997 F150 4wd 5sp manual. While changing the fluids, I noticed that the front u joint on the rear drive shaft has a grease fitting. No matter how I rotate that shaft, I cannot access that fitting with my grease gun, even when fitted with a flexible rubber hose.
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I have a 2009 Ford Taurus, 3.5 V-6. 56,480 miles bought as a CPO used car from a Ford dealer. my problem is that it has a clunking coming from the front end. every time you drive it across a bumpy road or a dip, speed bump or the nose of the car goes up and down there is a clunk sounding like it is coming from the left front suspension. happens at low speeds and high, does not change when brakes are applied. I have jacked the car up and crawled around under looking for anything loose, I have not found anything or seen anything that looks worn or rubbing.
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I have an 09. I heard a rattle on a rough road and crawled underneath the engine. The right front skid plate bolt is missing. What size bolt belongs there.
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My 2004 camry still has a clunking sound out of the right rear when i drive over rough road. I replaced the rear struts, sway bar links and grommets and right rear bearing hub assy. What else could it be?
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I have a 98 F250LD, its a Lariat, so everything electric/auto. Shift on the Fly 4x4, 5.4, 188K, Factory rear air suspension. Typical Minnesota rust. Anyway, I just noticed in the last 75 miles or so, a drive-line vibration. There is nothing until 39 MPH. Then from 39-41 MPH there is a decent vibration. Stops until 50, then from 50 MPH up it is a steady vibration. I have already changed the u-joints in the rear shaft. I have pulled/wiggled on everything else I can think of with no luck of finding of anything loose.
One thing I did notice, is that the front axle is locked in all the time. How long it has been like this: years for all I know... I can flip the switch from 2wd to 4H and 4L. It all seems to work fine, I hear clicking, the 4x4 engages, the proper lights come on/off. The front axle will pull when supposed to. The transfer case seems to be working fine, but the front axle won't disengage. I am hoping this can be fixed cheaply/easily (DIYer), and also hoping this explains my low fuel mileage.
Front axle? Where to look or what to try and fix for the vibration?
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I got my all new Lexus but driver door has been rattle since 400 mile. It's like plastic vibrating and creaking.... I think it's the door panel is making the noise especially on rough road. When it rattles, I can place my hands on and share the vibration, then the noise would be somehow suppressed.
The problem is that I took it to dealer and they, as usual, cannot reproduce the problem! I took down the door panel myself, tightened all screws...and the noise...got worse....
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When I drive my 2010 Toyota Corolla on a rough tar road, i feel dashboard vibration on the drivers side. The vibration is sensed in the instrument panel and also around the window. This happens if the tar road is rough or uneven. Is there anyway to remove the top of the dashboard and insulate it?
I live in sunny South Florida, so the heat makes the plastics in these corollas rattle or vibrate more, going over rough tar roads.
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