Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Front Driver Side Wheel Bearing Blow While Doing About 70 MPH
Aug 29, 2013
I had my front driver side wheel bearing blow on me, out of nowhere, while doing about 70mph on my '03 Supercrew 2wd. it really destroyed my spindle and rotor. i replaced everything from the spindle out (rotor,pad,caliper,caliper mounts, bearings,etc). I packed the bearing really good and put it all back together. Well, it happened again, same thing. Doing about 70 and it just blew out of nowhere. Why it could be happening??
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I have a 2003 F350 srw 6.0. 4x4. Front driver side wheel bearing went out. Went to the auto parts store got a replacement. Got it all tore apart, put the new one on and the lockout didn't seem to fit right. Is there a difference in wheel bearing assemblies for electronic shift on the fly and regular lockout? I have the electronic shift on the fly lockouts and it had just a little bit of play in it when I put the snap ring back in.
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So on my girlfriends 2000 echo I get the classic bad wheel bearing noise/vibration on the front left (driver side) wheel. Worsens under load (right turn) and goes away when unloaded (left turn). I've replaced left side bearing, CV axle, brake rotors/pads and the noise still persists. My next thought is maybe the ball joint but humming/vibration tells me something out of rotational balance. Bearing in the transmission? I don't know. I'm stuck.
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I have a 2003 F150 manual 4WD with 4.6L engine and 165000 miles. When i am driving i feel a vibration in the steering wheel and on floor board that intensifies when i press the accelerator. I do hear an irregular humming that sounds like it is coming from the driver side front. I checked the wheel for any play but it was very tight. i check tie rod ends, ball joints no play. i recently changed both u-joints on the rear shaft and the bearing hub on the passenger side front. Also, the steering feels a little 'wobbly' when i make sharp turns. it almost feels like it is giving. What else should i check?
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At about 20k on my 07 I started hearing a faint whup whup whup between 35 and 50 mph's on the front driver's side area. At 60+ pretty quiet. It has gotten real loud at the present 30K. I suspected the tirers as I know the Integrities are complete junk but as a test I did a rotation and exact same noise.
I thought thats not good but found it hard to believe something else was bad as I had no vibration and no pull whatsoever in steering. Long story short I bought a new set of tires Kumho KR21's at stock size and oh crap exact same noise.
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I just purchased a 2000 Hyundai Accent. I was told it has a bad wheel bearing on the front driver's side. I am assuming that would be the clicking sound that associates with speed. I was told the cv joints or axles were replaced but have a leak. I couldn't see a filler hole or one to check from. I also don't see fluid under the car from parked. Also, there is a humming which sounds like knobby mud tires. The humming disappears during hard right turns.
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My wife's Explorer 4x4 has a noise in the front at around 100km/h. It is not detectable below 90km/h. Its not noticeable from a standstill until around 100, then you hear it a little. I find I can make it more noticeable if I vary my speed from 110 to 105 up and down, then its easier to hear. Once you get below 90 km/h you cant hear it at all.
I have a broken leg right now, and I normally do ALL my own work so I'm a little-limited mobility wise at the moment.
I'm suspecting a wheel bearing. I put the Explorer in the garage and my son jack up both wheels on the drivers side. I started the engine and SLOWLY accelerated up through the gears to 100. I know the hazards with this as I've done it with other vehicles, but this was the first 4x4. Then we jacked up the passenger side (after lowering the drivers side) and did the same thing. I could slightly hear/feel the rumble when the passenger side was jacked up.
I did drive the vehicle on my outdoor ramp/pit so I could use my crutches and get underneath to have a look. I grabbed the cv axles and they feel solid. The propeller shaft was replaced last year, and the cv axles look brand new. (bought the vehicle off a friend two years ago.).
So, are my suspicions correct, is it the pass. side wheel bearing? The Explorer has 294000kms. Never did test it on corners as I didn't want to swerve back and forth on the highway with the amount of traffic.
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I just replaced my drivers side wheel bearing that was squealing pretty bad. After replacing it I now have the same noise only consistent where before it was only when I turned the wheel to the right. I noticed the teeth in the cv shaft where a little warn down when I changed the hub. Now also along with that noise I'm getting a clunking sound. Should I just change the cv shaft or is there something else I need to be looking at?
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I'm trying to figure where the coolant leak is. Appears to originate on the driver's side front, right near the thermostat housing. Since the engine tilts back the entire drivers side is wet. The thermostat gasket appears to be OK, but it does have a lot of miles on it.
If it's not the thermostat then can coolant leak from the cross over tube. And is the cross over removable without taking off the intake. There appears to be a bolt coming up from underneath on the passenger side.
Also, does coolant flow through this plastic intake. If it does, then the leak could be some where else, if not, then it's probably the thermostat.
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Had crunching sounds from front passenger side. Replaced CVJ shaft and hub bearing/assembly noise gone but tire turns hard by hand drivers side turns freely. Looked on line and guy had same thing going on said maybe 4x4 vacuum actuator might be bad and truck stuck in four wheel .does this sound right? I have manual trans and gear box so I don't understand why the actuator is even there.
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My passenger side wheel bearing is going out. I had a local company replace it under extended warranty 7 years and 90k miles back. I think I have gotten pretty good life out of it. I think it was from Napa but not positive. I try to grease then once a year but I'm not always successful.
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I have a 2002 Extended Cab F150 2WD 5.4L 3.55 Open. I have recently begun to notice a clunking or "sounds like something mechanical shifting" when I come to a stop or take my foot off the brake before accelerating (as in, when the light turns green.) The shocks are shot, so, some of the noise when I stop is likely due to bounce back, but the noise when I take my foot off the brake is clearly not related to suspension relaxation.
I jacked up the front, passenger corner and checked the wheel play. I immediately noticed wheel play in both 12/6 and 9/3 hand positions. First thought was obviously ball joints, but when I looked more closely I found that the steering knuckle itself was not moving at all. (I only had one corner jacked up, so, the torsion bar might have been stabilizing the steering knuckle to some degree, but...nonetheless, the wheel play is still there.)
So, the wheel play is between the wheel/rotor, and the steering knuckle. To me this suggests wheel bearings. But, I'm not sure how much play is allowable between the wheel and the spindle. Should the rotor/wheel move at all with respect to the spindle/steering knuckle? How much is okay? Does movement suggest I need to replace the wheel bearings? (I installed the rotor and wheel bearings myself last year.)
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For several days I could hear a scraping sound from the right front side. I thought it was snow packed in the wheel well at first, until there wasn't any snow there. Today I was driving on the Xway and the scraping became a buzz like a Cessna airplane. On the way back home I turned the steering wheel back and forth and sure enough the buzz came and went. That made it sure to me the wheel bearing was bad.
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I was getting a growl/grinding noise from my front hubs (driver's side I think) when I do a slight right turn like going around a curve, not turning around a corner. Just started happening the last week after returning from a 4th of July roadtrip. First thought was wheel bearings going out and started reading up on the forum here to see what was needed. Last night, I started getting a continuous growl when I was 5 miles from the house so just pulled up and parked it. I'm assuming (without pulling anything apart), it's the bearing assembly and I can get the Timken version at Autozone locally.
The problem is I generally do my heavy maintenance at our family shop in San Antonio but I live in Austin so will need to do this in my driveway. I have all the basic tools, just need to know how involved it is to do in a driveway instead of a shop. Thoughts?
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We are working on a 97 f250 light duty 4.6 4x4 5spd. Trying to figure out where a bearing noise is coming from in front end. Replaced both front hub bearings from napa. 150 each... the noise is still there. someone said could be cv shafts... although ive never heard a cv shaft make this noise i replaced them anyway cuz one was clickin last time was in the woods. bearing noise is still there..... in a long bank turn to the left the noise goes away till start to straighten out. while replacing the half shafts I grabbed the plates the shafts bolt to and spun them and checked for slack. none found. front diff's full with no leaks. as title says.... what next?
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Could the constant wobble be caused from a bad wheel bearing? The wobbling and vibration gets really bad and it try's to setup an insistent shaking & vibrating at 35mph and I have to slow down to around 18 - 20mph to make it calm down. It sounds and feels like it wants to turn into the 'death wobble thing'. It is coming from the drivers side and after removing the drivers side front wheel, I've noticed the wheel bearing grease has all squished out all around the bearing on the inside of the bearing where the axle enters the bearing right after the ribbed boot. See the attached video. Does this grease coming out all over indicate that the wheel bearing is completely blown out thereby causing this extreme wobble and vibration?
Or could it be a from a combination of a worn tire on that side (which it has) and worn tie rods, ball joints, etc? ...after all the car is 19 years old.
I also have a problem with the heater blower - it does not work at any speed, doesn't even turn on. I can feel heat coming up into the car defrost and vents, but without the assistance of the blower. I can hear the relay click when I turn the heat on and off, and I already put in a new blower motor resistor. Could it be the fan switch itself? Or could the blower motor be blown? The fuses have been checked and are all good.
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I am needing to replace the front hub wheel bearing assemblies on my 03 F250 4x4. I know Ford changed the studs from coarse thread to fine thread in between the 02 and 03 model years. Mine has a build date of 08/02 and I haven't been able to find the exact date they switched over. I'm ordering the parts online and want to get it right the first time.
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My 2005 Prius has 95k miles on it. I've been hearing a cluck-cluck-cluck noise from near the front driver side wheel. I had an independent mechanic test drive it, who said the wheel bearing needs replacement. Should I have it checked out by a Toyota dealer? They're so much more expensive, but are is it worth taking it to them?
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I've done a lot of front end replacement on my 99 this year and have it better than its been in a long time. The truck still seems to wander a bit, but that's going to be hard to nail down and it's not that bad really. But something that concerns me is it always feels more unstable over bumps- and I've noticed that going over a small hill at speed when the truck feels light, that the wheel pulls a little to the right, and then when the weight shifts back down the steering wheel turns to the left. If I hold the wheel lightly with my fingertips, the wheel will rock from side to side and back to normal. However in traffic when you have a firm grip and don't let the wheel move on its own then the truck shifts more on the road. Quick bumps don't have as much affect as small hills do.
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Just had the truck in the dealership for a bad blend door/ heater core case. Heat would only blow out warm on the passenger side, blows cold on drivers side. Dealership replaced the case, heat works normal on both sides now. It was a little warm out yesterday so i turned on the A/C, frosty cold on passenger side, warm on drivers side, temperature does change when i select different temperatures (dual zone.)
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Started hearing a squeak from drivers front wheel area when turning right, thought maybe pads might need replacing but they were fine as were the pins. So I checked for play with tire off ground and there was def some play pulling from top to bottom, so that lead me to the front hub, I read some posts about pulling the abs sensor and getting some grease in the the hub bearing so I did that but when I replaced the sensor and spun the hub it was scrubbing on the bearing.?
So I shimmed the sensor with a washer but now the abs light comes on but there doesn't seem to be a squeak when turning right anymore. Any example of doing this and had the sensor scrub? And with the play I would assume I need to plan to replace the hub assembly fairly soon...
2000 X 4x4 V10 with 147k
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