Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Front Brake Chatter When Cold
Jan 17, 2013
My 97 F150 4.6 4x2. I have a semi-rough front end "chatter" when the brakes are first applied after vehicle has been sitting overnight. It feels like it comes from the front disk brakes, I assumed it was a warped rotor or loose wheel bearing so I replaced the front rotors (old were to thin to turn), new wheel bearings and pads. Still had the issue, so I then assumed it was a bad caliper... replaced both those, and all related hardware. Still have the issue!
I can not reproduce the event until the vehicle is in the cold state and it will only do it once or twice, so I am finding it difficult to diagnose. Tired of blindly attacking this issue by changing what I thought was obvious. F150, 130K miles, 4.6l, automatic, 4x2, rear drums, front disk
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I have been having some brake chatter for awhile now. I have changed pads, changed rotors, rebuilt both front calipers, flushed all my brake fluid, and made sure my slide pins were good and free. I have noticed some weird wear on the new front rotors and was wondering if it was normal or not. On a different note, I am having to replace my parking brake pads. When I had the axle out I looked in and saw a bunch of gunk.
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I have a 99 150 4 wheel drive..5.4 ..auto...110.000 mile.....notice when driving in town in hot weather....when you are on and off the brake petal a lot....stop and go..etc.....the truck starts to hop or bounce....some....I got out ..and notice the right or passenger side front brake seems a lot hotter than the drivers side......but ...when it does that....the steering wheel doesn't pull to one side...when changing pads before ..notice no one side worse for ware than other...thinking it must be sticking brake calipers....they don't do this say on interstate driving even when on and off the petal some...
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My buddy has been having a strange problem with his 275,000 mile 2003 F150 2wd. The right side caliper will lock up out of the blue and will not release for anything. We put 3 news calipers on it within a 4 week period thinking that we had a defective one but no change. I am thinking either a bad brake line or, more likely, the front abs block...
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I know on some cars and trucks you need a special tools to push the caliper back in. i just use a large c clamp to do the job. Question do i need any special tools to replace the front brakes pads?
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What kind of brake line is it and if is replicable with regular brake line? I'm just replacing long line between front and back splitter block and just would like to know what is it. What is purpose of that braiding (?) at front brake lines and why they wind down instead of going straight. Part of that long line is braided too, part that go across frame.
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I'm looking at a '96 Aerostar AWD with 109,000 miles. The seller says that the right from wheel will "chatter", or act like it's on a washboard road, and that a "clunky sound" came from it. He says that it's only happened a couple of times at highway speed, and that it's intermittent. He's taken it to a shop, and they couldn't find anything wrong, but it's happened since then.
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How the heck do you reconnect the brake drum end of the E-Brake ?
There seems to be not enough play in the cable to be able to hook it.
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Is the brake light supposed to come on when the E-brake is depressed? It's not right now, bulb?
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This just started yesterday on cold start and happened again this morning and this evening always after sitting for hours. I would call it a chatter sound, very distinct and only on the first start. Never heard it before. Have 97K on car, will be changing the plugs soon. Once it is warm the sound is not there on starts. It is only when starting, sounds fine once running. What would only be noisy when cold like this? Timing chain? Valves? I'm going to let others with a better sense of engines than me (my son and his friend who are mechanics) listen to it and see what they think. But it needs to be cold. Never heard such a sound on my Hondas which makes me think it may be the chain. Funny how it just came out of no where.
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I just recently swapped out my Automatic Transmission in my 91 MR2. The person i received it from had the system completely drained, including the torque converter. I found this out kinda hard the way, knowing that the pan was empty, but not expecting the torque converter to be empty as well. After filling up the system, i thought i may have overfilled it, because the fluid level was reading above the hot mark on the dipstick. So i drained the fluid and replaced the transmission filter. I put in 3 quarts of fluid and added the 4th quart of fluid over time, mainly letting the car run and warm up to operating temp and then adding fluid and letting it settle.
I kept doing this until i got to the full mark on hot. So this is where I am at now... On a cold start, the transmission will chatter in all gears, from park to low. Give it about minute or so to start warming up the chattering slowly goes away. When its at operating temperature, there is no chattering at all in any of the gears, and it presumes to be normal and fine. It takes about 5 minutes to fully warm up to operating temperature. Should i worry about the chatter at the beginning while its warming up? i have to drive the car because I want to be sure that the transmission is okay. I have thought about adding an additive, but all that i have read is just bad results, and failed transmissions.
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I got a 97 f150 single cab short bed. My 4x4 shifter is on the floor and moves. I put in 4x4 and the relay clicks and the light comes on. Same as 4low. Front driveshaft spins but front wheels don't. Could there be a leak in the auto locking hubs? Also I want to manual convert the auto hubs. It can be done but how?
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1999 Rodeo LS V6 3.2L MT 277,000 miles. Over the past few months, I've been experiencing brake "chatter" occasionally at a stop.
It seems to happen mostly on hot days, and within the first few miles of driving, but I haven't recorded that data in any detail. It's right when I'm getting to a complete stop. It's a chatter that shakes the car when applying the brakes.
I thought at first that it seemed to be coming from the rear, but sometimes it feels like it may be at the front, or maybe it's happening at both.
I pulled the rear shoes and front pads to check the pads, shoes, rotors, and drums but found nothing. I did have a frozen bolt (pin) on one of the front brake calipers, but I fixed that and it still happens, but only occasionally. Some days it doesn't happen at all, and on other days it happens a few times.
The stuck caliper pin wasn't binding the caliper, I just couldn't get the pin out, but soaking the threads in liquid wrench, tapping it, and applying a little leverage freed it up. Before that I could easily spin the disc by hand.
It has never happened in the morning, but seems to happen mostly around mid day and early evening and mostly when the day has been especially hot, which seems strange, but that's how it's been.
It isn't the same feeling as the ABS being applied in a high speed slippery situation, but it is kind of at that frequency.
It feels like the pads or shoes are chattering on the braking surface, but neither of the pads, shoes, rotors, or drums show any signs.
If maybe this is a typical symptom of a master cylinder going out? That is a central common point for all brakes. It's a 1999 with 277K miles on it and the master cylinder is original, so.....
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I first heard it start about two or three weeks ago. It started when I would brake too hard. So I took a look at the brakes and the caliper pin was rusty so I loosened it up and it was fine for a day or too. Then all of a sudden it started in the front like something was grinding. Someone told me it was the transfer case. so i put in 4 wheel drive and it goes but then you really hear the grinding. How can I tell if its the transfer case or the front end where the drive shafts go into.
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I've got a problem with my 4x4 not engaging. I've been ready and re-reading all the related posts and threads and am still confused. Here goes. Early in the fall I had no problem shifting in or out of 4wd. Then when it got well below freezing up here, it stopped working. I had it in a warm shop and all of a sudden it worked fine. After sitting outside again it wouldn't work.
When it was warm, I had no problem shifting in and out of 4x4, dash lights functioning as normal. As it got colder it only seemed to work if I really pulled quite hard on the stick and the 4Low indicator didn't work but 4Low was obviously engaged. Now after another day or two outside, nothing happens at all. When the diff does engage, shifting out of 4x4 is never a problem.
Transfer case seems fine as the front drive shaft turns when I shift into 4H and drive forward. After researching a bit, I crawled under and pulled the blue line off the actuator and had someone shift into 4H, I couldn't feel any vacuum so figured it must be the engage solenoid especially since, shifting out of 4x4 is never a problem.
My question now is, shouldn't the lights on the dash be on even if the solenoid isn't working? I am now starting to wonder if its the sensor switch on the transfer case but I don't see how freezing should affect the switch and would think I'd have issues shifting out of 4x4 as well as in. If I put it in 4X4 and test for current at the solenoid and it is there, can I assume that the switch is fine and the problem is in fact the solenoid?
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92 Celica at speeds of 35 or less brakes feel fine. At higher speeds the pedal sorta chatters with light pressure. If I press harder the pedal is smooth. Is this warped rotors or possibly something loose in the assembly? The car does not pull to either side the brake pedal just vibrates under light pressure at higher stopping speeds.
If it is a warped rotor will I be able to check for it with a mic or caliper? I do not have a dial indicator to check run in or run out. I do use a good machine shop with an machinist that I trust, but I would rather not pull rotors unless I have to.
Now I know this is not just tired mechanic syndrome and is a real problem with the car.
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Problem I am having with my 2000 4.6L truck. When the outside temps fall below about 40deg F, I have to rev the engine a little (approx 2100 rpm) in order to get the transmission to shift from park into reverse. If I don't do this, it bogs the engine down and the motor dies.
Once I am in gear, everything works normally. I have no codes or lights. I have tried a new IAC valve, checked and replaced the trans fluid and filter. This is a very strange issue to be having. It SEEMS like it might have something to do with fluid flow? Like maybe the transmission cooler is plugged partially?
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Winds way up with a whine for the immediate 2-3 seconds after a cold start only and settles down as normal. Disturbing new sound and action that just started in the last day or two. 216k on the clock.
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I took my truck to a friends express lube to have some freon added to it. My truck has been blowing cool air, not cold. So i thought it might be low on freon considering its a 2000 f-150 w/ 145,000 miles. He took a pressure gauge to it and said it is over charged, the pressure was high.
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The AC works, but just not well enough on a really hot day. On a day in the 90s I have to put it on Max AC and even then it does not cool down for a while and the air out of the vents is not ice cold.
So, it works, but I cannot tell if there is something wrong or not. I recently put in a can of AC Pro and it did not change anything.
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My 2003 F-150 knocks pretty bad on my early morning cold start ups. It only happens if it had set for a while. Its not a knock coming from the bottom end it sounds like its coming from the top end, cams cam followers... etc. I was wondering if I should be concerned. I am running 5-20 mobil 1 with a motorcraft filter. My truck always seems to use a half a quart to a quart between oil changes too. The truck only has 60,000 pretty mild miles on it.
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