Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Freezing Temps - Multiple Starter Failures
Jan 3, 2014
2004 F-150 heritage : 12 degrees F yesterday. clicked (firewall solenoid) but starter was not pulling amps. After putting a jumper pack on it, after about 30-40 clicks it took off, never to work again.....towed it home with a rope.
2000 F-250 Super Duty : 7 degrees F today, did the same except you could tell the starter was pulling amps. Took a lot of clicks and engaged but I let off too quick, another bunch of clicks and it started. Once I moved it, I tried it a bunch more and it seemed to work, however I do not trust it.
2001 Crown Victoria : 7 degrees F today, the first turn of the key was nothing but a click, and the 2nd turn it worked fine. After moving it worked a bunch more times.
Whats up with the cold temps and the starters?
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I have a 1997 Toyota Tacoma 3.4L ... After having some problems a week ago with the truck dieing at every stop sign or any time my foot wasn't on the gas. Eventually the truck would not start at all. I finally got a CEL that gave me P3040 (Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Malfunction) So I changed out the sensor and the truck fired right up and ran for 3 days.. Now the truck does not start again and I am getting the same CEL code.
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I have been through 7 fuel pumps in the last 9 months. I purchased the car 1 1/2 years ago with 95000mi from an elderly lady, pulled the car fax and it had no issues and had been back to the dealer every 3000 for every scheduled maintenance and minor routine maintenance. It is a 2001 SES DOHC 24valve.
9 months ago, the fuel pump died right next to the Ford dealer. It had been randomly quitting on me after I would shut it off for a month or so. Then I would hear it priming and knew it would start. Finally, it just wouldn't start after an hour of trying. Of course, the next morning it did.
Took it to Ford, and it wouldn't do it for them, but they thought it sounded like a fuel pump problem. The next 3 pumps they put in wouldn't register a full tank and would indicate that I was low on gas about 50-60 miles before it should, and when filling it, would only take 12 gallons of gas in the 18 gal tank.
The dealer checked the amount left in the tank and verified that it was an 18 gal tank ( which I already knew) when changing to #4 and finally agreed with me that something was amiss. They thought that maybe # 4 would be better because it came from a different place in a different box. These were all supposed to be genuine motorcraft parts.
The next 4 pumps registered a full tank and I was getting about 300 miles before the check fuel light would come on and would take 15.5-16 gal of gas to fill, which was normal. The problem was that they all died after about 600-700 miles. The dealer said they talked to Ford and they kept telling them the same things to check which they did and were all okay. Things like resistance connections. The last pump #7 failed early in the day and still wouldn't start the next day, but did start after getting it towed to Ford. The dealer attempted to order #8, but Ford had put a hold on all the pumps they had in stock. So either they weren't shipping anymore for me or there was a much widespread problem. They installed a Carquest pump this time. This one doesn't register the right fuel in it either. Not as bad as 1-3, but I am getting about 35-40 miles less than I should before the check fuel light comes on and it is taking about 14 gal to fill.
What Ford may be missing when they change these out that I might pass on? They probably wouldn't listen anyway as it took the first 3 before they actually measured the fuel still in the tank even though I had been telling them it wasn't right.
If # 8 works, should I just live with it not showing a full tank, at least it is working. Either way I am afraid to drive the car to anywhere but work and even that is kind of nerve wracking.
At least the pump has been under warranty every time to I get a loaner and they fix for free, but I want it fixed right!
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1991 F250 Diesel. I'm on my 5th heater core in the past 18 months. This last one lasted less than 500 miles. I'm using the Spectre brand from Autozone. I find it hard to believe i could have gotten 5 bad ones in a row. I have pressure checked the system and it's normal. There is no fluctuations in the readings, so I doubt there is a head gasket issue.
I checked for stray voltage in the coolant and the results never got above .17 volts, but it was usually lower than that. I thought I had an electrolysis issue when I noticed the heater core tubes touching the firewall, so for this last core, I insulated the tubes, but that didn't work. I've checked everything I can think of. The truck has 117K miles on it. I don't drive it much, less than a few thousand miles a year.
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I have an 02 250 5.4. 103,000 miles. My truck at random times will not start in below freezing temps. Turns over just fine but Acts as if a frozen fuel line. I can get it running by pouring hot water on the fuel rail or a shot of starting fluid or sometimes both. It's been going on about 3 or 4 weeks now and I have ran through 4 bottles of dry gas with about 15 gallons each time. Also have replaced fuel filter and fuel pressure regulator. I'm 99.9% positive the pump is working and there are no leaks in the lines or holes in tank that I can see. My next step is to drop the tank and clean it out but trying to avoid that.
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So my windshield washer fluid sensor popped on a couple of months ago, checked fluid (was full), I concluded that it was a failed sensor. I ordered a new one from ECS, put in last wknd, and finally: the low-level warning light disappeared. A few days later, I was adding some fluid into the reservoir (it was a new bottle and had no funnel) and I spilled a few drops. The spilled amount seemed to drop near the sensor plug, but didn't think it was a big deal. Went into work, came out later to head home, and you guessed it: the low-level light came back on (with a FULL reservoir).
I removed the plug yesterday, blew it out, but it didn't change a thing. Anyway, is it possible the sensor shorted because somehow some of the fluid go into the connection? If I hookup the vagcom, will I be able to tell if there is an issue (I know it didn't before when the first sensor failed). Is there even a fuse for the fluid sensor?
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I have a 2014 Camry SE with 35k miles. About six weeks ago the drivers side front power door lock actuator failed and was replaced by the dealer under warranty. Last week the front passenger side actuator failed and was replaced. Today, both rear door lock actuators stopped working.
I searched the forums and didn't find anything like this happening to other owners. It sounds like I have something burning up the actuators. I am very concerned because the new car warranty is up in less than 1000 miles and I could have an electrical problem on my hands. The actuators that have been replaced seem to be working fine. How I can handle this?
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The CD player (6 disk changer) in my 2006 Honda Accord will not play disks above freezing temperatures. (To clarify, it is the model without the GPS.) I say temperatures because the playable cut-off usually fluctuates between 30 and 36 degrees F. Below that temperature, the disk plays fine.
Above that temperature, I will be lucky to get 15 seconds of play before the disk begins to skip and eventually error out. Additionally, the disk will skip and error after the cabin warms up. Over the last 9 or so months, this has been consistent behavior.
I first noticed this last summer in very hot weather when a disk began to skip. Since then, there is only one disk that plays reliably in any weather.
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I am having a problem with the clutch fan not coming on at high temps pulling a grade or flat. Replaced the clutch had the front of the radiator removed and all the debris blown out and replaced the thermostat. Still over heating and the fan comes on real late.
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Wife was driving her Lexus 2010 when she got the following warnings and took a picture (see below). It was freezing outside so that may have had something to do with this.
Drove car in morning to appointment (5 miles) no problem. Let sit for 2 hours (freezing weather). Drove back and encountered the warning below: Check AWD System, check engine light and traction control light. Roads were fine with no snow/ice. I checked code on car and it called out Cylinder 5 misfire. She encountered loss of power going up hill.
I cleared code and checked/replace front bank of plugs (Cylinders 2, 4, 6) with Denso #3426 (FK20HR11) - too difficult to replace others. Spark plugs looked decent minus some oil/gas on threads of plugs similar to what I saw on another posting that went through process of changing plugs. Car drove fine after (next 20 miles).
Lexus 2010 - RX350 : Check AWD System
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On a 1998 F150 2 wheel drive 4.6 250k, the front brakes will drag under a specific set of circumstances; only in prolonged stop and go traffic with hot ambient temps. Rotors, calipers, rear shoes, drums, fluid, bearings, seals have all been replaced. This occurs only a couple of times a year, otherwise the brakes work perfectly. It starts out as a slight shimmy that worsens until you can smell the pads cooking and the wheels are hotter than hell. The truck will hardly move at times. The rears are normal. After the truck cools for hours, no symptoms.
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1996 SILVERADO TRUCK. Starter solenoid doesn't engage when temperature is below freezing....
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I have a 2000 with a 5.4 and 166K miles. It had multiple exhaust manifold studs broken on both sides. Now that thay is fixed, I am getting the p1131 and p1151 codes. The EGR tube was also replaced at the time of the manifold fix. I checked over all the tubes and electrical connectors to rule out something simple but did not find anything out of place. The intake manifold was replaced with a new Napa one less than 5K miles ago as well.
Could the leaky exhaust manifolds over time set the fuel trim level high and now that they are fixed, the ECM is thinking it is running too rich? Can the ECM be reset to zero? There is also a ticking/rattling noise when you accelerate that seems to be coming from the fuel injectors. I listened with the stethescope and they are the only things that sound like the noise I hear. Could these all be related?
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Starter Removal, The top bolt is a bugger.
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The starter on my kid's truck doesn't disengage and continues to turn over after the ignition is off. I have seen a few posts on this but have yet to find a clear troubleshooting path and it seems a lot of money wasted on new starters, solenoids and new ignitions.
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I have a '99 F-150 SC, 4x4, 4.6L, with 48,000 miles. I drove approximately 15 miles, then parked for 20 minutes. When I returned, the truck wouldn't do anything when the key was switched to start. It's as though there was no power going to the starter. Could it be a problem with the immobizer system, or just a freak incident with how I handled the key? The truck ended up starting after another 15 minutes and has consistantly started for the remainder of the day.
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Starter problem with my 1999 Ford 5.4 f150. Last few days I’ve had to cross the solenoid terminals in order to start up. After replacing the solenoid the starter would not disengage. Put the old solenoid back on, crossed term and the starter did the same thing. Bought new starter (what a job finding the upper bolt) replaced old one, and I’m still hearing the starter running along with the motor. What else?
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1998 f250 4.6 4x4. In park the starter engages with key on . Ounce running the starter is still engaged in park and neutral. No engagement in the drive gears. Changed the ignition switch and neutral safety switch on the trans. When key is off instrument cluster is still on.
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I got a 1997 f150 4x4 4.6L had to replace fuel rail after a couple holes were rubbed in it and caused a fire, but now after two weeks of it sitting at the dealer, I wasn't gonna pay for a fuel rail to be put on so i had it towed home and I did it, however now when I go to start it, it just clicks. So I have the battery tested and its bad so it was still warrantied so it now has a new battery and i also replaced the starter solenoid while i was at it. But still just a click when i try to start it. I had the starter out and bench tested it and it went but went slow and looked very old and tired, I am thinking i need a starter now because its a click from the starter, like its trying to go but isn't strong enough.
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I have 98 f150 with 4.6 starter went so I put a new one on wich was a hassle and it tries to turn but just wont as if the motor is seized. I had been hear a loud howling sound from what I think is the ac unit and the ac line burst after trying to start. Would a bearing or something with the AC be enough to stop the engine from turning over? Or could it maybe be a wire connection problem? To me it sounds like a starter trying to start a seized motor but I cant see that my motor would be out it only has 190 000km and the oil looks good. but we couldn't turn the motor over with a ratchet? The truck had been getting gutless. I am stuck...
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I just bought a 2000 f150 4x4 ex cab with the 5.4. Once in a while when starting, there is a grinding and the starter won't engage the flywheel. The truck has only had 17000 miles put on it in the past 4 years, and has sat quite a bit. Could the starter gear be gummed up and not engaging all the way, or should the starter be replaced? Or could poor contact on the cables cause this? Or is this a flywheel issue?
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