I have a 1997 f250, light duty. I have noticed that the shift has been sloppy and now it will not go all the way into park, so if the truck is on a incline it will roll and you can feel it trying to catch. The will also not start at times unless I hold the shifter up or put it into neutral. Is this at the shifter or in the transmission?
View 3 RepliesMy truck will not always start when in park, Have to switch it to neut sometime, and sometime after putting it in park it won't fully engage, I know the part that I need to replace just don't know the name or the part number for ford....It is the part that adjusts the shift indicator...
View 2 RepliesI have a 1998 ford f150 with a 4.6 v8 it has about 170,000 miles on it. The truck seems to run hot when sitting still in park. I have replaced the radiator, the thermostat. I am lost at what could be causing this issue. when I am going the truck will cool down however if you ever let it get hot it takes longer to cool it down as opposed to getting in it and just going and not sitting before going.
View 11 Replies1998 f250 4.6 4x4. In park the starter engages with key on . Ounce running the starter is still engaged in park and neutral. No engagement in the drive gears. Changed the ignition switch and neutral safety switch on the trans. When key is off instrument cluster is still on.
View 3 RepliesI have a '97 F150 Lariat Ext cab, 5.4, 2Wd, 175K, a bit rusty but for the most part functional. Unit is parked for long periods of time.
3 - 4 years back the gear shift did not want to go into PARK and and the gear indicator was out of register. Unit would not start and I had to move shift lever to N to start. Fixed the two screws on shift plate/column per this site. Then 18 months ago same thing begin to occur but this time I used blue thread lock to hold screws in place. Still had to throw into park to get it to stay.
6 months ago shifter became very difficult to move and near impossible to get into PARK. When in PARK the interlock must have not been engaged so had to move to N or push lever hard into PARK to start.
Tired of this so I cruised the site and found several posts on taking dash apart, repairing a broken shift tube and or replacing bushings.
Battery disconnected, dash apart, cluster out, steering wheel still on and steering column still in position. Shift tube appears OK, i.e. not broken as in one post, bushings appears OK as there is no play or slop evident, but I cannot get the shift lever to move from PARK, period.
When the shift lever is pulled toward the wheel, a pawl on the tube causes a plastic or nylon arm to move about 90 degrees. It must be a stop or safety of some sort. I have not dug deep enough to see the shift plate with the two screws. At 75 I find it difficult to lay upside down to reach and hope I can get to them from the top.
Questions:
1. How do I get it out of PARK to check all things on shift tube and gear selector units?
2. Does the battery need to be connected for the interlocks to function?
3. Do I need to drop the column to check on shift tube items?
4. With a rusty trans, can the shift cable to trans connection be the problem?
5. What to look for, how to repair. etc.
So I just bought a 2001 F-150. It has the 4.6 v8 it's a 4x4 automatic. Sometimes i'll go to start it in park but nothing will happen. But if I put it in neutral. It'll start right up.
View 7 RepliesHaving trouble with shifter not going into park. The linkage is sloppy. Is there a bushing kit or something to tighten up the linkage?
View 3 RepliesLast two weeks I have had my truck randomly not want to start while in park. If I shift to neutral it has so far started up everytime, but as of today I was at work at a security gate that sits at the bottom of a mild to moderate incline and the moment after I had put the truck in park and lift off of the brakes the truck clicks moves forward making a clicking sound life the parking prawl is not fully engaging or something.
So doing some google searching the closest answer come up with is that its a failing/out of adjustment Transmission Range Sensor. Does this sound right? I had the tranny rebuilt last year and only have put on 7,500 to 10,000 miles so its not a matter of age since it looks like the sensor was replaced at that time.
I had what I was told was the breather (on the drivers side valve cover) snap off. I was able to place a piece of tubing In it and reconnect it. I had to change the #7 cylinder spark plug wire. Got a misfire code and found the wire was loose and corroded. Replaced wire and PVC valve.
My problem is, it seems not to be idling as fast as it was before this happened. The truck stalls out now in gear but not in park. 1997 F150 4.6 ....
I have a 01 F150. I just turned it on and everything was fine it turns on lights turn on but when I tried to get out of the garage I would not shift. Windows won't go down . I am guessing it's something electrical .
View 1 Replies2001 f150 supercrew 5.4 triton... Recently did a tune up plugs,coil packs,filters,belt the whole 9 yards. The truck starts fine accelerates great and cruises down the road great without missing a beat.
But every now and then when you stop at a light or park it begins to idle down to the point where it almost stalls. When it does this i usually stab the throttle and it revs right up without missing a beat and idles fine for a a while then same thing all over again.
Could this be the idle air control? Seems like something simple due to the fact it runs down the road and accelerates like a big dog.
I have a '98 F150 4.2l with 230k miles on it. A couple of days ago when starting, I noticed that the engine kept racing instead of idling down like it normally does and the weather here in Arkansas has approached the 80 degree mark. The engine also doesn't idle down when shifting (I have a manual tranny). Where to start? I don't have any codes stored other than two for bank 1 and bank 2 running lean but they popped up many miles ago. I'm thinking either a vacuum leak or throttle control. I checked the operation of the cable and the throttle valve and they appear to be fine. Maybe the idle air control?
View 4 RepliesThe problem I am having is that there is a grinding noise when in park. If i shift into gear then it is fine but shifting back to park very big grinding noise. At the same time I have the Speedometer and fan for the heat not working as well as the heater for the seats.
This problem is so bad I am afraid to drive and get stuck somewhere. I have checked the starter and it is tight ad secure. all fluids are fine. Not sure what this would be? This is the single vehicle i have for work and family.
A couple times recently, I've been unable to shift my truck out of Park & the brake lights don't work.
After checking the related fuses & finding them to be ok, it all works again.
What might be causing this to happen?
I have a 1997 ford f150 5.4 litre truck and the truck runs real rough kinda surging in park and in drive and reverse i have a couple oxygen sensor codes P 0171, P0174, P0136, P1131, P1151 and an idle air control valve code P1506...
View 5 RepliesI was driving my 1998 Ford F150 the other day and pulled into a driveway. At that time, the transmission quit pulling like I put it in neutral. It shifts from park and goes into reverse but not drive. It has the 4.6L and is 2 wheel drive.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2001 f150 crew cab 4x2 82k miles 4.6 with a 4r70w. Was pulling it over a curb and it popped now it will shift into reverse and load the motor like its pulling against a wall. In drive it will move some but still will lock up and stop moving. I assumed something in the rear had broken from the way it would roll a few feet and lock. Replaced the rear and still have same problem. Is there something I can replace to fix a stuck park or does the transmission need replaced or rebuilt?
View 1 Replieshaving problem w/ 98 f-150. first truck stuck in park. figured out how to get around that (turn key 1 position, shift to neutral, start vehicle, then engage transmission). but no brake lights! I have turn signals, driving lights, hazards, etc in rear. I disconnected harness from brake light switch. there are 2 leads, 1 hot, 1 not. i jumped them and no brake lights. i tested the switch and it functions properly (it's reconnected now). i changed my bulbs in tail lights. I unplugged the solenoid (which is impossibly located behind/beside steering column). this allowed me to shift like an old truck (without having to brake first), but doesn't solve my lack of brake lights (i've reattached the solenoid harness to remind me of my problems).
i am putting my money on a broken wire somewhere between the brake light switch (b/c that was good) and the solenoid (i am not hearing that faint click when i step on brake). but a broken wire should work by accident some of the time (unless cut cleanly and completely). there is a green wire with red stripe leaving the brake light switch and 3 wires at the solenoid harness (1 green and maybe a smaller gauge than those at the switch and 2 others which i don't recall their colors). Ford service manager doesn't think it's the solenoid but wasn't otherwise useful except to say, "hey, why don't you bring it in to me." What to look for before i plunk down for someone to perform what I already have before completing the job!
can i splice a wire from something (? brake light switch?) to something (?wire in solenoid harness?) or does that "electronic signal" get processed somewhere else first?
The truck is a 1997 F250 light duty extended cab with the 4.6 triton v8. The motor appears to run smooth and idles good, from my perspective. It accelerates smoothly, as well, and seems to cruise at an otherwise smooth rate. Until I hit around 50. Then it transitions right into a shake, or vibration. I know I need to be more specifc with the symptoms here, but it's pretty hard to feel where it's coming from. I feel it in the steering wheel, but also, it feels like the whole truck. My dog, oddly enough, will look at the center floor with his head tilted, when it starts to vibrate, I know he's got a better sense of hearing then me.
So, up to about 60 and over that it seems to go away. Sink back down below 60, vibration is back. below 50, seems to go away. It does it in and out of overdrive, does it when I pop it into neutral, but when truck speed goes down below 50 or over 60 for the most part, under various said stimuli, the vibration fades away. I'll also add that the vibration increases substantially with greater acceleration...The more gas I give it, the worse it seems to get, but still, only within the 50 to 60 range. Not as bad when cruising and/or coasting, but still vibrates regardless. Otherwise, acceleration from dead stop and over 60 is good.
So far, I rotated the tires and only difference I noticed after this was a little bit of a shimmy at 40 to about 43 mph that wasn't there before I rotated the tires. They probably need to be balanced, but the vibration at 50 to 60 doesn't seem to be tire related. The 50 to 60 mph thing is more like an overall vibration. I'm thinking driveshaft maybe? I checked the u-joints and they seem pretty tight...no movement I could feel by hand. I also check the front end a little bit, and tried to see if anything looked or felt funny, like any excessive play in the ball joints or tie rods, etc. That all appeared okay.
So, for now, I just try to avoid 50 to 60 mph. Harder then one would think...you end up either getting tailed or tailing someone. I guess that's all for now. If you need more info, I'll try to get it to this post as soon as I get a chance. Also, not sure of the trans I have. You all probably know better then me, but once I get a chance to check, will let you know. I don't think it's trans related or torque converter. I am not slipping or knocking, but forgot to check the trans fluid, which I will also update the condition of that when I get a chance.
Also, engine seems to run smooth. I didn't change out the plugs or wires per what I would think normal maintenance, but have nightmares of doing the plugs and breaking one. especially on these tritons. I had a e350 with the 5.4? that blew a plug and stripped out the threads. This 4.6 doesn't look any friendlier to navigate, with the fuel rails in the way and all. But if that is the problem and needs to be done, well, I'll get it done if I have to. But, like I said, idles well and accelerates up to 50 fine...no ticking or unusual sounds, at least that I notice.
99 F-150 V-6, 125,000 miles: I repaired the odometer connection on the cluster mother board! It now works great but now have no running (parking) lights and no backlights for the instrument cluster. I think (!) they were working before I pulled the cluster to fix the odometer--not sure. Fuzes are all good--I metered each with ohmmeter for continuity, and also have 12V to the right fuzes with headlite switch in Park and Head. I replaced the headlight switch with a new one but still the same problem. Have I messed up something in the cluster board or connections by soldering there? I don't know what role the cluster plays in feeding the running lites or the cluster backup lites. Stumped. What am I missing?
View 3 Replies99 F-250 with the manual shift 4x4, feels like I'm arm wrestling with King Kong to get it to work, this is my first 4x4 but I'm inclined to think this is not normal. This used to be a PA truck so it is rusty, the cursory look I gave it showed me massive amount of rust on the 4x4 shift mechanism. Should I just replace it or can it be rebuilt? Also should I replace the manual shift cover on the transfer case also?
View 3 Replies