I have a 97 F250, 4x4, 5.4 Triton with a bunch of mile on it. The problem I'm having is when first starting, the accelerator hangs up. Can't just push down slowly to start off - have to tap it to get it to free up. Problem doesn't seem to be with the pedal or cable - they move freely. What to look at or try?
View 1 RepliesI have a 1999 f-150 4x4 4.6 5spd manual 180,000 miles on the clock. My question is, when coming to a stop i push the clutch in an the idle hangs at about twice what it should be until i come to a complete stop then it drops to normal. It's not like somethings sticking cause it will stay at the high idle as long as were rolling but as soon as the wheels stop turning it drops down.
View 2 RepliesI just got this truck. 1999 F250 4X4 with the 5.4L. It will start great when its cold but after you get it hot and it sits for a bit it will not start (will crank) again till it cools off. Its has new MAF coil packs and plugs, air filter tranny flush and oil change.
View 2 RepliesI bought this truck and have been working on this problem for two full days. It has been sitting for over a year and was told it needed spark plugs and a battery. I replaced both items and it turned over, would start with starting fluid but only briefly. I disconnected the fuel line on the tank side of the filter and had my son turn the key on several times, no fuel. I reconnected the line and tested voltage at the tank (Pink and blue (+) and black (-). No voltage.
I went to the fuse box under the hood and have good 15A fuse with 12.5V there with the key on. The relay also makes 3 audible clicks when I turn the key on. I tested the inertia switch green/yellow wire; 6.8V grounded to the truck or to the small brown wire. I looked at the condition of the green/yellow wire up and into the harness and it did not appear damaged. Where this green/yellow wire travels to? I had read that it goes to the fuse box inside but did not see a listing for this in the manual.
1999 F250LD 5.4L Auto 4X4 142k
I bought a 97 F150 4x4 from a guy who had left it to die after the tranny went out. I worked a good portion of the day getting the tranny out, but the truck has another issue. It was manufactured with a 4.6. PO blew her up and put in what he said was a used 5.4 with 88K miles on it. It idles really good and sounds great until you touch the accelerator. It nearly dies then rev's high. I put fluid in the tranny and it wouldn't move in forward but would in reverse. Same thing in gear. Touch the pedal and it nearly dies then revs high!
View 10 RepliesI have a little more detail on when the truck starts and does not . I have gone out the past two days and put the key in the ignition and turn it to the on position and all the lights come on except Service Engine Soon light and truck will not start. I bought a ceramic electric heater and placed it on the floor directing the heat under the dash. after ten to fifteen minutes I go out and put the key in the ignition turn the key to the on position and the service engine soon light is on and the truck starts right up. I let it warm up for about a half hour and then shut it off. I then try to start it right back up and the service engine soon light comes on momentarily then goes off and the truck does not start?
View 5 RepliesSo, instead of pushing the throttle cable back and then off, I tried to pop it off and broke the little tab. I've been trying to look for a replacement, but all I'm coming up with is an entire throttle body. Not too bad, but would still like to fix it for much cheaper. It's a 2002 F150 with a 5.4L.
View 2 Replies2001 f250 7.3L, 289,000 miles, changed the IPR and ICP, noticed the EBP tube was in two pieces. Would this cause the rough idle and shaking? IT started running rough and would die after a mile or two. Would have to wait 30 minutes before it would start again. That is when a buddy told me to change the IPR and ICP the ICP plug was covered in oil as well as the top of the ICP. So I changed the wiring plug as well. I originally cleaned and changed O-rings on IPR but then it wouldn't start, bought a new IPR and started but runs rough. I just started it with EBP tube removed and sensor unplugged. Idling rough when I press accelerator and RPM go above 2K it levels off pouring black smoke everywhere.
View 3 RepliesI have a 1997 f250, light duty. I have noticed that the shift has been sloppy and now it will not go all the way into park, so if the truck is on a incline it will roll and you can feel it trying to catch. The will also not start at times unless I hold the shifter up or put it into neutral. Is this at the shifter or in the transmission?
View 3 RepliesThe truck is a 1997 F250 light duty extended cab with the 4.6 triton v8. The motor appears to run smooth and idles good, from my perspective. It accelerates smoothly, as well, and seems to cruise at an otherwise smooth rate. Until I hit around 50. Then it transitions right into a shake, or vibration. I know I need to be more specifc with the symptoms here, but it's pretty hard to feel where it's coming from. I feel it in the steering wheel, but also, it feels like the whole truck. My dog, oddly enough, will look at the center floor with his head tilted, when it starts to vibrate, I know he's got a better sense of hearing then me.
So, up to about 60 and over that it seems to go away. Sink back down below 60, vibration is back. below 50, seems to go away. It does it in and out of overdrive, does it when I pop it into neutral, but when truck speed goes down below 50 or over 60 for the most part, under various said stimuli, the vibration fades away. I'll also add that the vibration increases substantially with greater acceleration...The more gas I give it, the worse it seems to get, but still, only within the 50 to 60 range. Not as bad when cruising and/or coasting, but still vibrates regardless. Otherwise, acceleration from dead stop and over 60 is good.
So far, I rotated the tires and only difference I noticed after this was a little bit of a shimmy at 40 to about 43 mph that wasn't there before I rotated the tires. They probably need to be balanced, but the vibration at 50 to 60 doesn't seem to be tire related. The 50 to 60 mph thing is more like an overall vibration. I'm thinking driveshaft maybe? I checked the u-joints and they seem pretty tight...no movement I could feel by hand. I also check the front end a little bit, and tried to see if anything looked or felt funny, like any excessive play in the ball joints or tie rods, etc. That all appeared okay.
So, for now, I just try to avoid 50 to 60 mph. Harder then one would think...you end up either getting tailed or tailing someone. I guess that's all for now. If you need more info, I'll try to get it to this post as soon as I get a chance. Also, not sure of the trans I have. You all probably know better then me, but once I get a chance to check, will let you know. I don't think it's trans related or torque converter. I am not slipping or knocking, but forgot to check the trans fluid, which I will also update the condition of that when I get a chance.
Also, engine seems to run smooth. I didn't change out the plugs or wires per what I would think normal maintenance, but have nightmares of doing the plugs and breaking one. especially on these tritons. I had a e350 with the 5.4? that blew a plug and stripped out the threads. This 4.6 doesn't look any friendlier to navigate, with the fuel rails in the way and all. But if that is the problem and needs to be done, well, I'll get it done if I have to. But, like I said, idles well and accelerates up to 50 fine...no ticking or unusual sounds, at least that I notice.
I had a fuel leak at the pump cover (I straightened the cover) and am ready to install the new diaphragm. The old one came out with the rivet head side upward and the pump lever riding on the protruding pin side. Which is correct? This is on an 85 F250 with a Motorcraft carb.
View 1 Replies99 F-250 with the manual shift 4x4, feels like I'm arm wrestling with King Kong to get it to work, this is my first 4x4 but I'm inclined to think this is not normal. This used to be a PA truck so it is rusty, the cursory look I gave it showed me massive amount of rust on the 4x4 shift mechanism. Should I just replace it or can it be rebuilt? Also should I replace the manual shift cover on the transfer case also?
View 3 RepliesI have a 98 F-250 5.4L that has a constant ABS Light illuminated. My truck seems to brake fine ... I just bought this vehicle used and it has 93,800 miles on it.
View 10 RepliesI have a 98 F250 Supercab XLT. 4wd with 3:73 gear ratio. twist 4wd on the dash. Truck runs great but when i switch to 4wd it makes noise and occasionally will pop out of 4wd. The noise starts at almost no speed. I can hear it at less than 5 mph. and only gets worse as i increase speed. (sounds like a bad wheel bearing) - But only in 4wd/ nice and quiet in 2wd.
I used sensors and ear phones to pinpoint the noise. It appeared to be coming from the front differential. I opened the pumpkin found clean fluid and no metal bits or any visible unusual wear. I changed the front diff. with another used unit. The noise is still there strong and unchanged. The wheel bearings and axles seem to be all right.
I got a 2000 F250 XLT that the AC fan only works on high. Same thing in heat mode. Is there a relay for the other speeds that I need to check out?
View 2 RepliesSo, I'm slowly but surely eliminating a terribly shaky front end on my 2002 F-250 7.3L 4x4. First was a new carrier joint on the front drive shaft. Didn't work much, but the shop said the darn thing was falling apart. Next thing I did was new wheel bearings and manual hubs. Less vibration for sure. But the last remaining issue, in terms of vibration, is that when I let go of the Accelerator going at any speed above 60 MPH, it makes a horrible horrible noise, and I could feel a vibration. It shakes the whole truck, but I can very noticeably feel it directly in the gas pedal. It's really only an issue during deceleration. What could it be??? Drive shaft U-joints? Torque Converter? Something else in the Front End? Something in the engine even?? I don't exactly have the funds to tackle every possible solution.
View 1 RepliesThis problem is on my son's 2000 F-250 5.4. It's into October and my son tells me he has no heat coming out of his vents. I figure it has to be the control valve that should be in the heater hose lines. Could be jammed closed or a vacuum line has come off the pot that controls the open close cycle. We open the hood and nowhere can we see a coolant control flow valve. It is so tight and dark under all that mess of wires, intake, air conditioner lines and whatever.
Just where should we be looking for the valve. Also it could be the vacuum line is unplugged on the dash, behind the warm/cool selector. And even there is a possibility that some doofus has removed something. He bought the truck this summer. So to get us on the right path, where we start looking for the flow control valve?
I did the diagnosis,on my non working cruise control on my 2000 f250. The cruise light came on when, I, depressed the off switch and turned key on. I depressed on switch,cruise light came on.
I then depressed the resume, coast, and set switch, as described in the diagnostic procedure,suggested,and no light came on. Do the switches for the cruise control are bad.
I have checked the fuses at the power distribution box under the hood and checked the fuses under dash,all are fine. I just replaced the switch at master cylinder, as it was leaking and it had the recall switch replacement, too.
I have a friend that wants me to replace his heater core on his 1998 f250 with a triton 5.4. I told him I would and I've done the one in my 1995 f150 5.8. is it the same process or where to find the step by step instructions.
View 1 RepliesI have a 97 f250 and when i start it up i get 5 sets of 5 beeps from the airbag computer box . What the code is ?
View 2 Replies1998 F-250LD 4X4 ... The outer boot is cracked, so I got a new one. Took the axle off, but cannot understand how to remove the boot. Where do I take the joint apart?
View 2 Replies