Where the cabin air intake location is? I'm not talking about the air filter.
My 97 F150 has some sort of exhaust leak and it's coming into the cabin when the heat is on. I want to tape up the cabin air intake port but I don't know where it is. On later models, it's on the right passenger side near the cowl of the hood. Where is it on the 97?
My wife's 97 f150 4x4 had an exhaust leak on the passenger side. 7 out of the 8 bolts holding the manifold on are snapped off. 4 of them are snapped off 1/8" below the top of the hole on the cylinder head . I am I unable to get a drill in to drill these out. The other 3 I've tried welding a nut on these but they won't budge and I wring the nuts off. If I have to pull the head(something I don't want to do)can I just pull that 1 head or do I have to tear the intake and everything off?
View 1 RepliesI recently purchased this truck and have towed a couple of times with it. It has 98,000 miles and I do not know if the automatic transmission fluid has been changed. Should I have it flushed or drop the pan and change it? I have a lift so doing the change is no problem, although it might be worth it to pay a transmission shop to do it.
Also, I hear what appears to be like a heat shield rattle or something that sounds kinda like an exhaust leak during loaded acceleration. What to look for to locate the noise? One last question, the air bag light is on sometimes then off sometimes. Any known air bag light issues? I love the truck, hate the gas mileage!
So I think I have possible manifold leak in my exhaust and its because when the engine is super cold, and I do have a straight pipe, but it sounds like a tractor... until it warms up after few minutes, it goes away.
My exhaust manifolds are rusted to crap and stuff is falling off, paint or whatever there was on them.
Now I've looked at bunch of videos on UT to get a better understanding since everyone says the nuts and studs are hard to remove or snap.
Now my question to anyone who's done this in their garage; I've seen bunch of videos where the stud snaps flush, then he takes a nut, puts it over the hole, holds it up with needle pliers and uses a MIG to start welding it... stud to nut... then puts a wrench and off it goes.
Now, I'm not a pro welder or anything so is it possible to by accident weld the stud, nut into the head and then never ever be able to undo or take either one out?? or is the head or whatever made from different material that won't get welded to the nut or the stud??
My 1999 F150 Supercab has developed a water leak which I would like to ask your opinions on. Parked on a 20 degree incline during a pouring rain yesterday, I came out to find a small puddle in the driver's side rear floor corner and about an ounce of water pooled in a little lip at the bottom of the rear window in the right corner of the window! Haven't started tearing anything apart yet (and might not be able to myself), but it seems that it is possibly the rear window seal as the window and the outside body area appear to be in good shape otherwise (no visible rust, no seal obviously dislocated, etc).
Also, don't know if it's related, the other day I jacked up the truck with a floor jack under the front crossmember but a bit off center which caused the truck to twist a bit before both wheels came off the ground. While doing this, I heard and felt a loud bang like something broke in the frame! Couldn't see anything out of place and something similar has happened before where a lug of the jack cup had shifted slightly while jacking the vehicle and it caused a loud bang to be heard, but this time it didn't quite feel like it was at the jack but further back.
Could something have "broken" in the truck that I can't quite see and thus this leak has occurred which wasn't there previously or could it just be coincidence that the bang and leak occurred so close in time to each other. I know it's hard to diagnose something like this without seeing the vehicle or really know what happened but I just had to put it out there as part of the events that occurred within the timeline for this leak.
1999 F150 New 5.4 ~350 miles on it. Longtube Pacesetter Headers with cometic mls gaskets. Stainless bolts.
It is making a knocking sound and I can't tell if it is internal or from the headers. I have a video that I hope you all can tell what is. I tried listening to the block with a yardstick, but I couldn't notice a significant increase in volume but my hearing isn't the best. I made sure all the header bolts were tight, but no change in sound.
YouTube...
I recently got a 2wd 1994 150 straight 6 4.9L, It's been a great truck so far. It drove from New Mexico to California with no issues. Just this morning it started stalling and dying when pulling up to stop lights and putting it in reverse. The truck has 172,000 miles and has a new serp belt, alternator, radiator, and starter. It seems to run just fine on the highway and once it's warmed up it doesn't stall as easily. There is an exaust leak.
View 1 RepliesThe dealer has tested every system for leaks and can't find any. They have changed the filters. They have contacted Nissan to see if there were other complaints of this nature and there weren't. They did a smoke test to detect any leaks that weren't visible to the naked eye and found nothing. This problem has not occurred at the dealership only when I'm driving but my husband, daughter, son-in-law and car pool buddy have all been in the car when the smell was evident. It's very strong and smells like you're in a gas station with the windows open.
View 2 RepliesI am having trouble with my 2001 F-150. Starting yesterday it would not start. At 1st i thought it wa the battery, so i took it off, charged it, put it back in the truck and still no start. There is a clicking noise coming from a relay in the cabin fuse box, disconnected the battery, removed relay to inspect and everything looks good. After plugging it back in, and connecting the battery, the truck still wont start and there is a clicking sound coming from the dash near the radio. Rhis is my work vehicle!!!
View 3 RepliesAbout mid-October I noticed when it as real cold out and I had the heat running whenever I would come to a stop I noticed there is very little to no heat coming from the vents, despite the engine being warm and running at operating temps. At the time I was working for a shop and I asked one of the mechanics what the problem was. He said that it was the radiator not having enough coolant.
Turns out when we pulled the cap the coolant res, was just about bone dry. So we added in about a gallon or so of coolant with the truck running and sure enough at idle the heat was back.
Fast forward to the last couple of weeks and when I am sitting at idle again same thing happens. So somehow the engine is losing coolant. Its not ending up in the oil (no white on the dipstick) and there is not a coolant leak. As it sits there is 255,300 miles on the truck now. 1999 5.4L F150....
It's been a long time since I have posted here mainly because my truck was wearing a bow tie for awhile. But my wife was nice enough to tell me the Bow Tie wearing truck was making a funny noise on New Years Day (seems a small drum corps took up residence in the oil pan). So anyhow now I am back in a real truck . My new to me 1998 F150 5.4 Liter ran fine until yesterday. It started idling rough and almost stalling at red lights. about halfway home the CEL light came on and is throwing a P0171 code.
So far I have checked for vacuum leaks including all the elbows on the PCV system' tried the spray test with a can of flammable break fluid and a can of starting fluid (man I love the smell of that stuff) could not find a leak. Cleaned the MAF sensor and the K&N air filter (not a fan of these) IAC seems to be working. Only thing I know that is leaking for sure is the driver side exhaust after the cat. But that is the wrong bank if I am correct on which bank is which.
So why only one bank running lean and why does it act like it is only firing on 4 cylinders?
I have been smelling raw exhaust in the cab, especially when the weather is colder and when standing still.
I took it to the dealer and in the process of fixing minor coolant and oil leaks on the turbo, they located a small exhaust leak with visible soot on the back side of the turbo.
They tell me that there is no way to repair it and that only Ford can rebuild or repair these turbos.
2011 SD 6.7
I have been having an issue with exhaust fumes in my 13 GT (16,000 miles on it). I am positive its from the exhaust. Its definitely the "rotten egg" smell, not raw gasoline. I don't hear any leaks though.
It only happens when going up a hill when the engine is under more load than usual or under heavy acceleration. I am going to call the dealer about it and have them look at it.
I'm losing coolant have, excessive white smoke coming from the exhaust, and rough idle. Doesn't over heat or even try to overheat. The oil fill cap looks brownish white. It drives fine other than extremely rough idle. I know how to check a blown head gasket with the combustion gas test.
From what I've read blown head gaskets on 4.6 fords are fairly uncommon but a blown intake gasket is fairly common. How can I tell the difference?
My 2003 mountaineer 4.6L has front and rear heat. The issue is the heat in the front is barely warm and the heat in the back is poor. I have replaced the blend doors front and back and I'm sure they work as I can go from cold to barely warm and back again when I change the temperature setting.
I can feel hot fluid going from the engine to the front heater core and also down under the vehicle to the rear when the vehicle is warm. The return on the front is almost cold - so heat is being given up by the heater core in front, but it seems to me that if the return is almost cold, there's not enough hot coolant delivery. The overall heat is very poor in the cabin.
The coolant temperature gauge is steady and just below 1/2 with no erratic movements. I flushed the front heater core a couple years ago. Coolant has also been flushed last year. I know that the heat is underpowered in this vehicle, but it's a far cry from when it was new.
I just purchased a 2003 V10 with 270 000kms. The truck had had regular maintenance. It has an exhaust leak and runs a little bit rough. Could the exhaust leak cause the truck to run a little rough or am I dealing with another issue?
View 2 RepliesI replaced the filter and gasket on my transmission about a month ago, it had a slight leak when I changed it, that appeared to be coming from the back side of the pan. So changed it and everything seemed good, today I noticed a small puddle of fluid under the truck after setting only a few minute's. Got home crawled under it and sure enough it was coming from the pan gasket again, now last time when I replaced it. I put a small amount of Permatex on the gasket back there, but it is still leaking there.
I checked when i had it apart the other day for a crack or anything noticeable but figured it was just the gasket was bad ( was a cork type gasket). Its hard to get the pan in there between the cross member and the transmission so I am not sure if i scrapped the permatex off or not, I am gonna take it all back apart and check it again and put a new gasket in and put the permatex under the gasket and on the transmission then hope for the best... 97 4.6 4x4
My '02 F150 just developed an oil leak. It appears to be coming from the passenger side front. I'm just assuming here, but could it more than likely be the timing cover? I'm 150 miles from home and I'm debating on getting the timing cover gasket on my way home tomorrow. Also, if it is the timing cover, what other gaskets should I replace? Pretty sure the water pump oring.
View 1 RepliesMechanics are stumped. 3 months ago, during a 4WD commute through the snow, I started noticing what at the time smelled like bus exhaust coming into the cabin. My SES lights comes on for 2-3 days, then off for 2-3 days. Codes say MAP sensor and low coolant coolant.level. When the SUV warms up fully, you can smell the odor strongly under the hood, inside the cabin while sitting at a stop light, and inside with the Heat or AC on. Mechanics had the car for days, replacing cam and Map sensors. There is no evidence of exhaust leaks or coolant on the engine. Level of coolant has been dropping slowly in the reservoir.
View 9 Replies2003 6L 250 SD. Always smells of exhaust on the cabin. If there is snow it gets much worse.
View 2 RepliesMy 2001.5 Passat traditionally does not start easily when it is less than 6degrees outside. Today it was that cold..it started easily..but about 30 minutes into my drive to work..I realized it was a little smoky and exhaustish smelling in the car..once I realized it wasn't the car next to me..i realized if I turned off the heat..the smell went away..but at the stoplight..i could see smoke coming from under the hood..out the corner by the passenger/dashboard... Car has 80,000, recent oil change, what it is?
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