Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Erratic Idle When Get Off The Freeway And Stop
Jun 24, 2014
I have an 01 f150 4.6 4x4 automatic with 90,000 miles. I have an erratic idle but it only happens when I am on the freeway well actually when I get off the freeway and stop. the idle will fluctuate between 750and then drop to 400 then back and forth til I get moving again. I replaced the IACV because it was doing the weird humming and vibrating the intake tube. The humming is gone but still idles funny as stated above.
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My trucks symptoms include a illuminated service engine soon light, sometimes a high rpm idle, and sometimes a rough erratic idle. When a scan was done it indicated the oxygen sensor was defective. The issue is: which specific one (there are multiple oxygen sensors) or how could I check or determine the faulty one for sure. I am trying to economize and replace only the bad one myself if possible. I own a good multimeter, can it determine the bad one? 1999 F-150 4.2 Litre V6 oxygen sensor dillemna....
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2001 f150 supercrew 5.4 triton... Recently did a tune up plugs,coil packs,filters,belt the whole 9 yards. The truck starts fine accelerates great and cruises down the road great without missing a beat.
But every now and then when you stop at a light or park it begins to idle down to the point where it almost stalls. When it does this i usually stab the throttle and it revs right up without missing a beat and idles fine for a a while then same thing all over again.
Could this be the idle air control? Seems like something simple due to the fact it runs down the road and accelerates like a big dog.
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I have a 1997 f250 2wd 8800lb with dual tanks with the 5.8l. Recently the truck will all of a sudden stop running, always at idle. I switch to the other tank and after 5 secs. of cranking it starts. Switch back to the front tank runs fine. Same thing happens the next day, 3 consecutive days now. Is this something I can fix at home or do I need to get the truck to a shop.
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I have a 1999 f-150 4x4 4.6 5spd manual 180,000 miles on the clock. My question is, when coming to a stop i push the clutch in an the idle hangs at about twice what it should be until i come to a complete stop then it drops to normal. It's not like somethings sticking cause it will stay at the high idle as long as were rolling but as soon as the wheels stop turning it drops down.
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I've been having problems with hesitation and a flutter at cruising speeds as well as erratic idle. I have a 2000 F-250 SD with 497K Miles. I was having poor starts during florida winter ( had to plug in a couple times) Had no oil coming out of #2 inject and #8 buzz was weak. Flutter was there and was the original reason I started digging. Right now the only code Im throwing with my chip turned off is a P0470. I cleaned the tube and the sensor but its still throwing.
I have recently replaced all Injectors, Glow Plugs, Valve Cover Gaskets & Harnesses, CPS, Fuel Pump, ICP was replaced before new plug no oil showing.
Mods: 6637 Air Cleaner, TS-6 Chip
Truck has mad power now no problem starting. Its really starting to frustrate me Ford dealer wont troubleshoot unless I remove the chip. I feel like it should be something simple because on the throttle it will set you back in your seat cruising at 70+ no flutter ..... but slow down to 50 55 in traffic and let off the throttle when you start to ease back into it 1500 - 1800 "buck buck buck" if I monitor ICP pressure I see a fluctuation in psi of about 200 -300 psi (1400 to 1200 or 1000 to 800) . If I throttle harder it will stop or let off the throttle. I can feel it do it sometimes before the TC locks so I dont think its a TC issue. I even tested with OD off and I can recreate. The magic area appears to be 1500 - 2000 rpm....
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I have a F150 2001 6cyl. Other day was doing 75 on freeway and lost all power. I replaced fuel filter, and pump is humming good (was replaced 4 years ago) checked the Inertia Switch and checked all relays, but truck still wont fire. I checked spark first and that's good.
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I have a 2001 F150 4x4 supercrew XLT 4.6 with 150,000 miles. I have a few things happening in the truck, and although it is still running for now, I would like to get ahead of this before something catastrophic happens, and I don't know if everything is related, or everything is falling apart separately.
1. I have been noticing a burning smell coming from under the hood after driving, every time I drive, but no noticeable leaks, and oil level is fine. I have seen light smoke coming from the exhaust but inconsistently. A mechanic said it was probably the valve cover seals leaking to the manifold, but I would think there would eventually be less oil on the dipstick?
2. When on the gas, over 2200 RPMish, the air and AC switches to defrost. It seems like a vacuum line leak somewhere, but can't find it.
3. Generally, the truck seems sluggish, sometimes unwilling to shift gears or accelerate at freeway speeds. Not sure if its the transmission going out again (had it replaced at 125000), or spark plugs?
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I am having trouble with my 1998 F-150...XLT Triton? I bought the wrong motor for it and installed it, turn out it's a 1999 Windsor 5.4
Problem is that it runs rough and stalls when I stop or rolling to a stop it would die.... It seems ok while cold, but when driven for 20 minutes or more it does it.
I have used original 4.6 harness as well as original spark plug coils and only replaced throttle body, oil filter holder thingy mount, exhaust manifolds are from 4.6.
When the throtle body was on the 4.6 I didn't have when the motor ran. Only misfire due to intake manifold leaking into the 3rd cylinder spark plug.(I thought it was a bad head gasket and changed in....installed the timing chain wrong and messed up the whole motor)
Also I broke a rear brake line and now it only has front brakes and smells like fried transmission oil.. This is my first truck and first truck accidental engine swap. Also the 5.4 Intake manifold is missing 2 coolant sensors and it's giving me the P0118 ECT Sensor Circuit High input...
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I have a 94 Cobra Mustang with a 5.0. For the past few months it has had an erratic Idle and stalls when trying to idle. I've had a number of suggestions on how to fix it and nothings seems to work. I checked for vacuum leaks, changed PCV, new plugs, new IAC valve, tested ICM and throttle TPS and even adjusted idle. Still no luck.
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I have a 2009 F150 4x4, XLT crew 6.5' bed, 5.4 engine. The truck has a very strange erratic throttle behavior from a dead stop through low speeds, shifting seems very strange at low speeds too.
Dealer tried re-flashing the computer, but that didn't fix it. They talk about some valve that sounds to me like it's similar to an EGR function, but I cant remember what he called this valve. He explained the issue as exhaust gasses that are to be recirculated and burned, but the valve is opening at the wrong time, or stuck open or something so it feeds the fire so to speak.
Does any of this sound typical or common? Is this something that's hopefully easier to do than a spark plug change on a 5.4?
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Here is a YouTube video showing my erratic RPMs while idling in park, then pressing and releasing the brakes and gas to show what happens each time: [URL] ....
I just bought a 99 Explorer Sport. The history I know is that the truck has 200k+ miles on it, with the engine replaced. Replacement engine has 90k on it.
Was told the fuel pump, and serpentine belt (I think, he said "main belt") were replaced in the last few months.
The car was driving fine on the test drive and for the first few days of owning it. Then a clicking sound started form under the hood while driving.
I first noted the clicking while at a red light, and when I accelerated it stopped. Over the last week it has increased in frequency every day and now is almost constant.
This evening I was coming to a stop with my foot off the gas and when I hit the brakes the RPM went up, and car lurched forward before stopping gently. This kept happening so I drove home and took the above video. Video taken shows the RPMs jumping up when in park and going form idle to idle with brake depressed. when I rev the gas and let go, the RPMs fall, hang for a couple seconds, and then fall back to ~1000. The captions are very accurate, they show exactly when the brake or gas was pressed and when they were let go.
My obvious question would be WHAT IS CAUSING THIS? Also, ARE THE CLICKING AND THE RPMs RELATED? Finally, SHOULD I AVOID DRIVING IT? I need to drive it a few times through the next few days and I can't really avoid it unless it will mean serious damage.
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My wifes 2008 Eddie Bauer Explorer V-6 recently started having an erratic idle and we've started noticing it while at higher RPM's. Its almost as if there is a cylinder that misfires but no engine light is coming on. The car stumbles like it is going to start to die, then the idle jumps up and smooths out. A little while later it does the same thing. The car has I think 74,000 miles on it and has never had the plugs or wires changed. I change out the fuel filter roughly every 24,000 miles and did it recently in the spring. Any places where I should start looking? Could a misfire not trigger the check engine light?
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1997 escort lx wagon, manual, 173,000 miles... When I stop at a red light or stop sign, it takes 10-15 seconds for the idle to drop down to where it should be, and when I push clutch in to shift gears it doesn't drop down, it stays where it is. No codes are coming up. I'm thinking IAC....
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97 shortie. 3.0 245,000 miles. I've already cleaned the throttle body and the idle air control valve. Throttle position sensor reads 5 volts, good ground, and a smooth voltage increase from idle to wide open throttle and back down. Which of these codes is most likely to cause erratic idle? Mostly in the morning.
P0340 Camshaft position sensor.
P1443 Evaporative purge flow sensor.
P0401 Insufficient EGR flow.
P0171 Air/fuel ratio is too lean or rich for PCM to correct.
I doubt it's number 1, and number 4 seems too general to be any use. I'm leaning toward number 3. Seems I read somewhere that the tube from the exhaust gets plugged up. This started when I disconnected a plug from the blue air bag box to get rid of that beeping. Coincidence?
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I tugged on the little hose on the back pass. side of the engine,(5.4),...
and I could hear the vacuum leak that is apparently causing the erratic idle, and PO171 & PO174 to come up.
I know this hose is hooked to the Charge motion Control Valve on the back of the manifold,..I can't imagine what it does, as it terminates with some kind of plug or check valve??? Haynes say's to remove the entire manifold to get to the CMCV.
I can see it with a mirror,. I am thinking maybe long needle nose from Harbor freight,...bend the tip short,..maybe be able to change it out?????
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I've read quite a bit in various threads about the large vacuum elbow collapsing, causing erratic idle speeds. My 2001 3.0 had that issue int he past. I shoved a 1/2" copper 45 degree elbow inside of the rubber elbow, and the problem was solved... until a few days ago.
We're now getting into the hot part of summer here. I've notice the same symptoms are beginning to return, once the engine compartment gets hot. My question is... is the large vacuum line a "hard line" all the rest of the way to the engine, or are there other places along it's length that can also collapse under vacuum?
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Its a 1994 with 4.0, automatic, 4x4. Running fine, parked it, a week later I'm getting a bad but sporadic miss that according to the stealership is the 3 cylinders on the right bank dropping in and out. Driving down the road you can feel them drop out and when they come back its a kick in the pants like a turbo kicked in.
Shop says wires are good, plugs are good, and then lost me when they started talking around in circles and not making much sense.
What could make 3 cylinders all on the same side of the engine drop in and out? This wasn't anything that slowly came on. Fine one day, crap the next. The only thing I did prior to was replace the IAC because it was idling high, it was cruddy inside, and it looked like it was original. It was running fine after that till this issue popped up out of nowhere.
Mileage was claimed to be 178k but I'm beginning to suspect it's probably 278k.
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A while back my 05' f350 6.0 was having rough starts and an erratic idle. It died coming up to a stop sign it started back up after 2 cranks and then it did that same on the way home. The next day leaving work it wouldn't start. I knew i had a couple injectors on the way out so i decided it was time to replace all 8 upon tearing it down i noticed my oil cooler was leaking so i figured it was time to rebuild that and finally do the egr delete that i had been wanting to do. well i put it all back together and got a no start.
The dash gauge on my oil pressure is reading normal when i cranked it so i went and bought a scangauge2 to read the icp its hitting 1500psi when i crank it. The ipr% is reading good. But my ficm main power is at 26v with the key on then it drop to 14v while cranking and eventually down to about 9v. Its never at the 48v that its suppose to be at. The scan gauge is also showing that my ficm sync=0. Would the sync be showing 0 since the ficm is bad? My batteries are fully charged and i have both of them on the charger while I am cranking it.
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At my wits end with a Tiguan problem that my dealership seems to be clueless ....
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Starts rough but clears up after about a minute, I'm assuming the IAC is sticking. Whats the proper procedure for disconnecting and removing the cleaning and re-installing?
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