Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Engine Starting Pulling Down And Shaking Heavily?
Jul 15, 2015
So i drive a 2001 F150 4.6L and over the last couple of years it has started pulling down and shaking heavily. I have taken it to mechanics and it always gave a code as a miss. well we replaced the coils and the plugs and of course it still has the problem. finally we did a compression test and it shows that #3 and #5 have no compression and the mechanic said it was either a blown head gasket, a valve or a cracked head. it has 230K miles on it so i was wondering what your thoughts on it were and also if it would be cheaper just to swap the motor.
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I have a '97 4.6L 4x4. I've had a few issues recently and am at wits end.
Symptoms: while pulling a boat at highway speed, the engine engine just died. After waiting about 20 minutes for a buddy to show up with a tow rope, it started up and ran fine...until I got home (10 miles). I parked and after approx 5 minutes of idling it died again. No CEL, and found no codes when scanned. 15 minutes pass, it fires up and works fine.
The next day, I hook the boat up again, dive to the lake, go fishing, drive home. Everything was fine. I unhook the boat and drive to work. Half way there my voltage gauge starts falling and 5 miles later all of my gauges end electric stuff dies. I drive two more miles to work and strange beep starts coming from under the dash on the passenger side (I think). After my 12 hour shift it starts and I start my 10 mile commute. Half way through I lose electrical power again but make it home. Now it doesn't have the juice to turn over.
Are these problems related, and what are the possible causes and cures? On an unrelated note, what's the easiest way to replace a rear leaf spring shackle?
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2001 F150--V8-4.6-3.55--8.8. 221000 Miles. Changed front rotors and pads. Had scrubbing noise from right rear when applying breaks heavily. Changed rear rotors and pads. Still have scrubbing noise when breaking hard. I do not hear any noise when driving regular or when normal breaking. Differential fluid was a tad low. Applied fluid. Still have scrubbing noise. No leaks at hub seal or pinion. Bearings ? Maybe?
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I have a 2003 Cavalier. It has started to shake and pull to the right when driving. It feels like the car is swaying. Is this the symptoms of a bad ball joint, tie rod or something else.
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I have a 2000 f150 4x2 5.4 168k... Check engine came on,started shaking, weather was really cold. RPM would be a little high then low then back up. Especially when I turned on heater. Felt like truck would die but never does nor does it have issue starting.
So far, I have replaced two oxygen sensors inside engine,all coils, spark plugs, fuel filter, had injectors cleaned, intake cleaned. Truck runs better but, light came on a day later again. I can feel the tiniest of shaking going on and, cold mornings still make RPMS a little unstable. I was driving truck on highway at about 60 mph when a slight tug was felt and Truck check engine came on. I feel truck heavy, once it warms up completely, a little lighter.
Codes came up at auto zone as P1151
But I'm running out of options and frankly, money to fix this truck.
Checked the MAF and looked okay.
I'm with minimal skills.
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I wanted to move my car to the other side of the street just now and when started the engine up, motor started to vibrate/shake heavily and few seconds later "check engine" light popped up on my dash. Turned the car of right after that, restarted it again and motor seems to be working fine now but the light is still there. Car was parked for the last two days and it was around 22 degrees outside.
I'm going to schedule an appointment with the dealership for tomorrow first thing in the morning just trying to find out if i can drive it to the dealer or call VW assistance and get it towed to the dealer. Like i said car seems to be driving normally now as i drove it anyway for about two minutes, it's just that light that's ON at all times now (not blinking)
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Been awhile since I've been on here...guess that's a good thing! Current problem...about a week ago my car stalled after starting it. I had been running errands all day so the engine was warm. Started fine, and then slowly died. My husband replaced the IAC valve. (My truck had this same problem 3 1/2 years ago...it was the IAC).
After replacing this time, it seemed to be fine. However today, again after running errands, the engine stalled slowly after I had started the engine. It seemed like it was trying to stay running, but then just slowly died. I tried starting again and it stayed running, so I was able to get home. It seemed to run fine while driving home. Also, no engine light has come on. Wondering what could be causing this. Don't want to get stranded somewhere.
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I got an 2001 f150 4.2l v6, 5speed. It started running real rough almost like it was hitting on only 3 cylinders I replaced the crank sensor and did a tune up on it along with a new coil pack and now it won't hit a lick the plugs are getting fire, it's getting fuel but, will not start it's not throwing any engine codes. Which leads me to believe it may have a bad ecm.
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After replacing the battery and starter...as well as replacing the alternator (bench tested good), I'm still greeted with one 'thud' when attempting to turn the engine over. The battery light is one in the dash. I've been through this scenario with more than a couple vehicles that haven't started in the past. I do the normal check the battery, wires, alternator, fuses, and starter. Somewhere along that line...it always fixes the issue. Not so here. I have to admit that I'm at a loss at the moment.
2001 F-150 5.4L
115k
Replaced starter
Replaced batter
Alternator bench tested good
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The past week or 2 I have had an intermittent starting problem. Engine is turning over but wont start, but after i wait a second it will start up. I listened to see if the fuel pump was running and heard the whine. I checked the battery and the starter voltage and it was all good. i primed the fuel pump a couple of times and it started up on the first crank of the ignition. The truck runs great when driving and idling, no misses or loss of power that i have felt or heard yet. I am thinking it is either the fuel pump is starting to go or maybe the fuel filter is getting a little clogged up. Like i said up above this is an intermittent problem and that is why I am confused. Its a 2001 F150 4.6 4X4 ....
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I Have a 1998 f150 4.6 XLT and recently it has been starting on and off. sometimes i will try and start it and wham! it starts right off. then other times I just here the starter hitting and engaging but nothing. Replaced the starter, solenoid and still nothing. It does have an alarm system but the alarm light doesn't come on, also had battery charged and its working fine. I am really fed up with this beautiful looking POS. Oh and the wiper motor needs replace.
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i have a 1997 f150 2wd and it has a 4.6 litre v8, it runs good but it seems to have no power when pulling a trailer anymore, it has 321,465 miles on it, original motor and transmission, it uses about a half a quart of oil every 2500 to 2800 miles between oil changes, the trailer i pull is just a small car trailer i have always pulled it with the truck, what could be causing it to lose power?
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I just got a 99 Ford f150 with the 4.6. I am having problems getting the four wheel drive to engage. I turn the on the dash and the lights come on for four high and for four low. I have a 00 four by four and it works fine, so I know how to work it. In the 99 I can hear the transfer case engaging and everything clicks just fine just like it's going into fourwheel drive, but the front end is not pulling. The front drive shaft is turning but still the front end is not engaged. What the problem may be?
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My 2000, F150, 4X4, 4.6V8, five speed manual idles great and sounds great and throwing no codes. It doesn't have a lot of zip, but it really never has, at least since I bought it at almost 60K miles.
I've never towed much of anything with it until recently. I started towing a 6 1/2' X 10' trailer with a 1,600 pound side by side or a 1,300 pound mower with a large grass collector. Both of these loads have lots of wind resistance.
The lack of power is REALLY showing up pulling these loads at highway speed. Sometimes, even on pretty flat ground, the cruise control will hold the throttle on the floor at 60 or 65 MPH and it can't pick up speed.
I have maintained the truck well, but there is something amiss. It is due a fuel filter, so I will change that. I've never replaced the O2 sensors, so I'm considering replacing the front ones.
I am thinking about using a vacuum gauge to see if I can detect plugged cats. As I recall, there are two on each bank. I have a scanner, so I was thinking about monitoring front and rear O2 sensors and see if I can get the 100 degree difference that indicates a properly functioning converter.
I'm thinking of cleaning the throttle body.
Something else that is odd about this truck. Being a stick shift, it does not want to go all the way back down to idle speed unless the vehicle is stopped. For illustration of what I'm saying, you can kick the transmission in neutral and coast, and it will stay above idle speed until the vehicle stops, THEN it will idle down normally. I have always thought that this might be because so few manual transmission trucks were built that this is something in the chip for an automatic that they didn't take out for the manual.
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I have a 2001 f150 4x4 with the 4.6 Triton motor, the front axle is not pulling in when I switch the selector on the dash, I know the transfer case is switching so that part is ok. I know there are 2 solenoids on the fire wall, my question is which one is which ? every store I call says one has the nub at 9 o' clock and one at 6 o' clock which one of these does the front axle, don't want to order the wrong one ? I checked the vacuum and the blue line going to the axle always has vacuum and as I read the diagram the blue line is 2 wd and the red line is 4 wd so is the 2wd solenoid stuck and preventing the 4wd one from pulling in or is the 4wd one bad ?
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I have pulled a pop up with my truck before with no problem. I bought a boat on Friday and pulled it too and from the lake ( 2.5 hours each way). The boat is 21 feet and weighs 3000 pounds empty, no gas. The trailer is a bumper pull. I was pulling no more then 4,000. Under 50 mph everything felt fine. At times when going over 50 the truck was shaking. It would happen and then stop. It does not seem to be coming from the engine.
It would happen up hill and down hill. I was thinking it was just the vibration from the boat, can a load that size make the whole truck shake?? Also the truck made a horrible clunk after backing the boat down the ramp and pulling it back up. It happened when I took the truck out of park into drive. This can be something other then the transmission???
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After starting my Prius the engine was knocking and shaking. After running the engine for 30 - 45 seconds it operated normally. The car is always parked in our garage and the outside temperature was approx 32 degrees or a few colder. I have 30750 miles on the car.
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Just got new tires Friday. Now I have a very noticeable shaking right at 35-40mph. Doesn't do this at any other speeds and test d up to 80mph. Took back to where I got the tires and told them and they rebalanced them and yet it still does it. Could it be a bad tire? What am I missing?
02 F-150 xlt 5.4 4x4 170k miles. Stock rim and tire size.
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When I start my 2001 passat 1.8T 155,000+, my car shakes like it feels like it needs to catch a second before starting fully, and when it does fully start it gives a good kick but then stops, just curious of what it could be and what it could run me, but its not the battery I know that?
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I've had this truck since 2011. Ran great when I got it. Ive had problems with the calipers and I've replaced both the fronts. I keep up on changing the oil regularly. The manifolds started rusting away a little over a year ago. Not happening... The shaking started recently after I pulled a trailer with 2.5 tons of shingles on 2 separate occasions.
That being said, I can feel a little shaking while idling. It was really only bad between 500 and 2000rpms. After 2000 it almost felt like a turbo and it would accelerate really fast and smooth until the gears switched. I figured i should change the oil. Now the shaking is more violent.
Its a 2000 f150 5.4 v8....
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I have a 2001 f-150 the brakes are sticking and I get a bad shake which seems to come from the front and rear of the vehicle. It doesn't do it all the time but when it does it slowly gets worse. I have replaced 3 of the 4 calipers and will be replacing the forth, but not much is changing.
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