2000 f150 4x4 5.4 7700 series. Problem I am having is taking off from a stop sign the engine feels like its not getting any fuel especially when out side temp gets above 90 or some higher, truck runs great other then that ,expected fuel mileage is good,no codes at all, doesn't miss or jump..
View 9 RepliesI have had my Tiguan about a month ago and it has started getting cold. I noticed that when taking a right turn at a stop sign, there is a very faint clicking noise (sounds like it is coming from the front left wheel). On my way home today, I turned right at a yield and the road was a little bumpy. When turning right, I heard a clunking noise coming from the same area. It does not always make this noise. The car is under warranty, but I am afraid if I take it to the dealership, they will just tell me they couldn't find anything.
View 4 RepliesMy 2002 F-150 with the 5.4 has an issue with a high rev (1000 RPM for a few seconds) while at a stop sign, along with a clunking/banging sound coming from under the truck. This is when I have the brake mashed all the way, and this all happens at the same time, almost every time I come to a stop at a stop sign or light. I do have an intake manifold leak, which i have recently determined, but I do not know if the high rev at a stop sign has to do with the manifold leak or to do with the transmission sounding thump I hear. Could this be a torque converter not unlocking, and then suddenly unlocking? Because after the thump sound, the RPM's go down to around 650 from 1000 every time.
View 4 RepliesI have a 99 7.3 F250. It dies when I slow down for a turn or for a stop sign. At highway speed, it 'surges' sometimes, and makes he whole truck jump. Also, there is a small leak in the tube connected to the turbo. Has 250k miles ......
View 1 RepliesThe other day while at a stop sign in my e99 F450, I went to take off and stalled. I am not sure if the stall was my fault or not; however, it would not start. I turned the key on and the wait to start light did not come on.
The first thing I checked was the mini 30 amp fuse under the dash that controls the GRP and the fuel bowl heater. The fuse was good, and my heater has been unplugged for a while anyway. Recently my SES light came on with codes that said the glow plugs had low voltage for both banks. I have cleaned the wires a couple times and the light goes out but then comes back on after a minute or so.
I figured that maybe if it was a bad wire it finally went bad so I got jumper cables and started to try and jump wires. I moved them around and found that when I hooked one side to the positive battery terminal and the other to the small key hot wire on the glow plug relay, the light would come on and it would start. I left the cables hooked up and drove the couple miles back home.
After messing with it I figured I could run a new wire. I got a fuse tap, and went from the 30 amp mini fuse that controls this system anyway, and ran it up to the post on the GPR for my new keyed hot wire. The WTS light would cycle and it would crank, but no start. After some more messing around I decided to put both the original wire back onto the post with the new wire that I had just put on; after doing this it started right up. I took it for a test drive and a couple times the engine would act like it stalled, only for a split second. When looking down at the dash immediately after the tach would be at normal RPM and the WTS light would be on, as if I shut the key off and tried to start it again.
I suspect it is the original key hot wire that goes to the GPR. It appears that this wire also has a purpose, other then serving as only a keyed hot wire for the GPR. It has about 6 inches off of the GPR, then it goes into the harness. Where that wire goes? I will just run a new wire instead of having to dig through that harness... that doesn't look like something I would wish upon my worst enemy.
After the details below, the truck finally started & I let it idle over an hr. Then turned it off for the night. Just to check, immediately tried restarting. Turned over very fast. Started once almost immediately & ran for 1 - 2 sec, then died. After that it turned over fine, but no attempt to fire - just as it's done in the past.
2000 F150, 5.4 L gas. Couple weeks ago it didn't start. Cranked fine - no sign of starting. It did this once a couple mo before that - wife was shopping & didn't start at the store. By time I got there, it had started. Her "solution" was loosened / retightened the gas cap (no, don't know why).
Never found a problem - didn't do it again for months. Then it did. Figured a code scanner would show something relevant to starting problem. It didn't - as far as codes go.
Couple weeks ago, battery was NOT dead by any means, but slightly weak (hadn't driven for couple weeks). I charged the battery (< 1 yr old). Seemed to take charge OK - didn't take long. But, after charging, volts at the battery = 12.8v.
Is it possible that's too low for these trucks & cause starting problem? It turned over quite fast - still no sign of firing. Gas isn't old. New Autolite spark plugs. Clean air filter.
I decided then to use the "jump start" setting on my charger (2 weeks ago) - still didn't fire & made no difference in cranking RPMs. Jacked around that day a couple of hrs. Checked all fuses (inside & under hood).
Bought the scanner - needed one anyway. Actron 9580A. All it shows on codes is a problem ABS wheel sensor (C1230) and a non-MIL code:
P1000: "OBDII Monitor / Drive cycle test not complete."
Suggested fix: "drive vehicle until drive cycle test is complete."
I don't think that's keeping it from starting. No idea about the drive cycle test. The battery hasn't been disconnected OR dead since I replaced it. It's certainly been driven hundreds of miles since new battery. Right after reading the codes today, decided to try starting. Didn't turn over quickly - battery somewhat low after 2 weeks w/o driving.
Surprise - it started - though didn't turn over fast. I let it idle some, then started recording data w/ the scanner. Where a couple weeks ago w/ the engine turning over like mad, it wouldn't start or even fire.
Note: only real difference in today (when finally started) & 2 weeks ago, or the time several months earlier: today is much cooler - in the 60's - vs. 90's the times it didn't start.
So, right back at square one - no signs of what's keeping it from starting. Maybe need some instructions on using more advanced features of the scanner / recording live data (if it starts again).
I've tried everything I can think of and it still runs sluggish.
1. Had dealer change plugs
2. Changed Cop's
3. Cleaned MAF sensor
The 5.4L has slight miss and doesn't respond well at all when trying to pass or going uphills.
1998 F150 tries to start on its own. It starts and drives fine, then stop, take key out, wait few minutes then it tries to start on its own. I unhooked the battery cable.
View 1 Repliesjust bought a 01 f350 v10, 40,000 miles, plowing beast, anyways when taking off truck seems sluggish, give it more gas as its fine. At idle there appears to be a skip. There are no check engine lights on, could it be the coil pack or even maybe fuel problem? Have done plenty to this beast to get it close to perfect and this motor issue is it.
View 14 RepliesI have a 04 lariat f150. Problem is every time I stop at a light or stop sign I hear and feel a bump. Coming from the rear I guess . Had my truck aligned asked the alignment person about the situation he said ford just do that. True or false ...
View 2 RepliesMy truck was running awesome, until, Out of NOWHERE, she started feeling super sluggish with a lot of loss of power, sounds like she is misfiring,or out of timing, and all the sudden started vibrating, the harder I accelerate, the more the vibrates.
When I start her up, she idles fine.If I try to drive her,givin he gas is like pulling a trailer with the e brake on, and she starts to vibrate. I've looked at some websites that have diagnostics from Bad timing, to spark plug wires, to plugs, to a bad fuel pump.
So I did what any other self diagnosing guy would do, I hooked up an actron scanner to see what codes she pulled up. Below are the specks of my truck, and the codes the actron scanner gave me. It just shows me codes, and have no way to interpret them..
BTW, I parked the truck till I find out what the hell I an do to fix her, not many mechanics where I live, so It looks like I'll be going at it alone.
So for the vibration, I checked the obvious, tires and rods are good and tight,had someone check the rotation, and its not alignment or balance.
Truck: '97 F-150
4.6L FI V8, SOHC 16V
Short Bed 4x4
Codes:
P0155
P0401
P0153
P0155
P1151
P0308
P1000
I have a 97 F-150 and my Radiator fluid has been leaking very bad but hasn't been taking the fluid from overflow tank. Actually the new fluid that I put in the overflow has now turned a rusty color....
View 3 RepliesMy Mazda tribute 2003 (manual) has developed a habit of 'pretending' to be overheated. If I do more than 2 or 3 stops as I run Saturday errands on a warm day - the care refuses to start and' continue' to run. I can start the car but have to rev the engine and restart at every stop sign and red light- If I pop the hood and wait about 40 minutes the car seems to 'cool' down and will run. The engine does not redline - water and coolant are fine - Is this just a faulty thermostat or is it some insidious vapor lock....
View 3 RepliesI have a 2001, 2wd, XLT, Super Crew with 4.6L and 180000Kms. I am the 2nd owner and have owned it for roughly 6 years. Since owning it I have towed the following: a 1500 Boat, 1000lb full utility trailer, a 2700lb boat, and most recently (Last summer) a 3500lb dry weight/4000lb full 22 foot camper trailer. None of these items ever caused me any problems til mis summer with the camper.
I have always got check engine lights for the stupid coil packs. It seems like I would replace one and a different one would go. I was camping one weekend a short hour distance from my home when I pulled onto the main highway and began to accelerate up to highway speed but it was feeling sluggish picking up to 100kph. When I merged onto the highway it was not a flat piece of ground and was a small grade of a hill, but nothing big. Before getting to the top I started to hear a strange noise, almost like a rattling, and the check engine light started to flash. After breaching the hill, it picked up speed, the light went out, and everything seemed fine.
This happened twice last summer with no other problems. At the end of the summer I once again had a check engine come on...I had blown out a plug, had it fixed and replaced 2 more COPs but still had codes showing for CC, M, F, O, OH, C, E and EV. My reader also said Freeze Frame, and MIL on. I had the truck in in Nov/Dec for an emissions test and it was given a conditional pass due to codes reading but no Check Engine light at this time.
I want to keep this truck...I will be towing the camper again, buit I'm considering getting a different truck. As it is I know I already have to have air bags installed in the rear to level out the load when towing. Hopefully that will cut back on some of the acceleration drag. At present time I have a check engine on...I'll check it again and post what its reading but most likely the same stuff.
My 2007 elantra has been rumbling when i change gears occasionally and sometimes when stopping at a stop sign the car just dies. The car starts right up though as if nothing happened. It only happens like twice a week but i really want it fixed. I already changed the motor mount next to the engine block on the left. Could it be the motor mount connecting to the transmission?
View 1 RepliesI have a 98 expedition with the 4.6l 4x4 and it has 158,000 on the dash had a new engine installed at 100,000 it started running rough and sluggish last week so I changed out the spark plugs and while changing the plug I notice oil on the threads of the two rear passenger side plugs. After the new plugs it was smoking pretty bad blueish white smoke. I figured it was the oil from around the threads that had leaked into the cyl.
The smoked cleared after 2 days and ran great for a week. Now its doing the same thing again real rough idle and and its extremely sluggish. I can put the pedal to the floor and she barely wants to move almost like the tranny is going out but the rough idle leads me to believe its and engine problem. I have the check engine light on but can't get any codes. I also tried checking for vacuum leaks by spraying either round the intake and vacuum lines and didn't notice any change in rpms so I'm guess the vacuum is fine.
I have a 2001 F150 4x4 supercrew XLT 4.6 with 150,000 miles. I have a few things happening in the truck, and although it is still running for now, I would like to get ahead of this before something catastrophic happens, and I don't know if everything is related, or everything is falling apart separately.
1. I have been noticing a burning smell coming from under the hood after driving, every time I drive, but no noticeable leaks, and oil level is fine. I have seen light smoke coming from the exhaust but inconsistently. A mechanic said it was probably the valve cover seals leaking to the manifold, but I would think there would eventually be less oil on the dipstick?
2. When on the gas, over 2200 RPMish, the air and AC switches to defrost. It seems like a vacuum line leak somewhere, but can't find it.
3. Generally, the truck seems sluggish, sometimes unwilling to shift gears or accelerate at freeway speeds. Not sure if its the transmission going out again (had it replaced at 125000), or spark plugs?
The car died on me the other day at a stoplight but started up again (It resisted for a sec but then caught). Now it's taking a bit to start and sounds very faint when it finally catches and the turn over is slow. I'm no mechanic but I can replace parts. I'm just wondering if it's the fuel pump or injectors, maybe low fuel pressure. I haven't had a chance to do anything to it. Where to start?
View 3 RepliesI have about 200k on my forester. Friday when I was leaving work I cranked it up and it made a loud knocking sort of sound. I drove it home (about 15 miles) and on the way the sound lessened. It was louder when the car was idling but she made it home ok. Next day, started the car and it happened again. Not more than 50 feet up the road we stopped at a stop sign and it sounded like a semi was starting up around the corner. Much to my dismay it was not a semi but my own car. Engine shut off. We pushed it back to the house and tried to check it out the next day. This time, we started it, didn't go anywhere, and within 30 seconds it turned off. Same loud knocking sort of sound. The confusing part is that all of this happened within two days. There was no gentle sound leading up to it for a few weeks or even a few days. Knocked on Friday, shut off on Saturday. What could be going on?
View 19 RepliesI am having trouble with my 1998 F-150...XLT Triton? I bought the wrong motor for it and installed it, turn out it's a 1999 Windsor 5.4
Problem is that it runs rough and stalls when I stop or rolling to a stop it would die.... It seems ok while cold, but when driven for 20 minutes or more it does it.
I have used original 4.6 harness as well as original spark plug coils and only replaced throttle body, oil filter holder thingy mount, exhaust manifolds are from 4.6.
When the throtle body was on the 4.6 I didn't have when the motor ran. Only misfire due to intake manifold leaking into the 3rd cylinder spark plug.(I thought it was a bad head gasket and changed in....installed the timing chain wrong and messed up the whole motor)
Also I broke a rear brake line and now it only has front brakes and smells like fried transmission oil.. This is my first truck and first truck accidental engine swap. Also the 5.4 Intake manifold is missing 2 coolant sensors and it's giving me the P0118 ECT Sensor Circuit High input...
I'm trying to diagnose the problem with my friend's 1994 crown Vic police interceptor. It dies at stop signs and then won't start back up till after waiting like 5-10 minutes. I asked him if his check engine light is on. He said yes, so I looked up how to retrieve the codes with a jumper wire as I have on older vehicles of my own. I found that information but can't locate the terminal. He said other symptoms are poor fuel economy and sluggish performance. My friend is so busy and pinched for cash he's been driving like this for over a year.
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