Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Engine Seemed To Slip Into Neutral When Speed Increased And RPMs At 2000
May 24, 2013
I am having issues with my 2003 F150 4.6L truck. It just happened today when driving home. It started fine and then when I increased the speed and the rpms went up to about 2000rpms, the engine seemed to slip into neutral. I stepped on the gas but the truck would not accelerate, it was just coasting. I pulled over to the side of the road and came to a stop, but didn't shut off the engine.
After a few seconds, I proceeded to give it some gas, and it engaged in gear and accelerated...until I got to about 25mph & rpms increased to about 2000 again. It did the same exact thing....seemed to shift back to neutral so that I could not accelerate. I had to keep pulling over to come to a stop, and then slowly proceed again. I wasn't too far from home & I made it. What this issue could be?
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I have a 98 F150 4x4. I had some trans trouble so I pulled it out and had it rebuilt. Now when it shifts into drive the rpms speed up right before it shifts. What is causing the trans to do this? It doesn't do it all the time, only if I take off faster the usual which is most of the time.
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Im curious if this is normal or not. When I'm driving and I put my car into neutral to coast, the idle speed is at around 900rpm. When I come to a stop, the idle will drop to around 650rpm. Is this a design feature? I wish the rpm would drop more to conserve on gas while I'm coasting!
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We got our first taste of fall weather in Houston this weekend, and with it I've discovered a new problem with my truck. After the engine was up to temp, I noticed that the heater would blow cold air any time I sat at idle. If you rev up the rpm's to 1500-2000, you can feel the air start to get warm again. I'm guessing this means my heater core needs to be backflushed.
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2000 neon automatic. My wife was complaining about the rpms jumping around when on the highway going about 65mph. The rpms are around 3000 and jump very slightly up and down and you can hear the engine tone change when it happens. Checked tran fluid and it was low about 3/4 of a quart and added some fluid, changed spark plugs and wires and the problem is still there. Doesn't happen all the time. She says it seems to only do this if the car has been sitting for a few hours or longer. There is an code for the downstream sensor which needs to be changed.
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My F150 with 175,000 miles on gave me a the ol' P0305 code indicating misfiring in cylinder #5. I changed the plugs and wires using Motorcraft wires and Motorcraft AGS34FM plugs.
Now the truck idles fine, does not give a OBD code but runs rough at 2,000-2,500 rpm. Tried it out on the highway and it started "bucking" a bit. Not sure what to try next.
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i have accent 2000. RPMs goes up when car is in neutral. Why is this?
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1999 F250 LD with 5.4 w/ 225k miles... Was running perfect yesterday when I shut the engine off. Started back up about 20 minutes later and Idles was up and down and rough.( 400 - 900 rpms) Drove and ran fine except Idle. I know that those codes are for the o2 sensors but don't believe they're bad. I hear what sounds like a vacuum leak somewhere behind throttle body. Either IAC or EGR or it could be coming from the line that runs in beside the IAC valve to the air intake in front of the throttle body. Tried spraying water in those areas with no results. Could it be a bad EGR valve or a stuck IAC valve? I have also noticed that lately when I start the engine the engine rpms go up to 2k before dropping down. Would a bad IAC valve cause such rough idling along with the codes that I described?
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I have a 2002 F150 5.4 2 valve. only when the engine is cold, everyone once in a while the engine will surge up and down about 2-300 RPMs for about 10 seconds. also right when I put it in drive it will surge. I was thinking about pulling off the trottle body and cleaning it.
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I have a 2wd f150. I want to put in a limited slip diff. I have found a ford racing one that is reasonably priced but all the application guide shows is mustangs. Will it work in my truck provided the size and number of splines is correct? I also found an AAM diff...
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Tranny just started slipping a couple of weeks ago, only occasionally. Seems to be between 2nd and 3rd. any chance a fluid change will work? I don't have have the money right now for a new or rebuilt and I am far from mechanically inclined to do the work myself. 2000 F150 62K org Miles....
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My 3rd gear is starting to slip, Is there a chance that it might be a small fix ? if so how or what can I do? 2003 F150 4x4 Automatic ...
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What may have wrong with my trans on my truck... this is what its doing, I am able to put in drive and drive it for so long then its like the truck is in neutral and doesn't gain or maintain speed. but i can turn the truck off and put it in park and restart the truck and it will go again?? that is how i got it home....
the fluid is burnt now but wasn't that bad until the trans started doing this. I have pulled off the pan and inspected the filter and it does have metal debris in it, pulling the valve body off tonight before work (work 3rd shift) to inspect that, i think it has something to do with the solenoids or valve body because it actually moves but then quits until i restart the truck. Also does the transfer case use fluid from the transmission? or are the fluids separated between the 2.
Truck has 4.0L SOHC with a 5R55E in it 4WD...
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I've got a problem with my '96 Tbird that's really stumping me. It started with a little shake when I gave the car gas. I don't know if it's related, but I ran over some debris on the highway at around 70mph. [No chance to avoid, unfortunately] That same day it felt like the car was missing, and throughout the week it got worse and worse. It would shake harder and faster with increased RPM's. By the end of the week, it was so bad I kept the car off the road.
I thought it was a bad misfire, so I changed the plugs, then the wires, then the EGR and EGR solenoid [from JY] and swapped a coilpack from my other car. It ended up being the harmonic balancer, it spun a 180, not a surprise on an 18 year old car. I've never had one go bad, so I didn't even think of that as a possibility with the way the car felt. [I've been working on cars for a long time.] It never threw a code once, so I had nothing to go by to begin with.
So over the weekend I swapped out the balancer, and buttoned everything up. Ran fine! No shake! But then I had gotten a new problem.
The idle started to get bad. Very bad. It would lope, lope then almost try to stall, especially when the fans kicked on or I put it into gear. Since this car is my daily driver, I had it at work while I started to undo the new stuff I put on it. I started with the just unpluging the battery for 3 hours. Didn't work. So I pulled the new plugs, reverted them back to the old ones. It didn't work. Leaving work that day I noticed if I pull the IAC connector, the idle smooths out some, but it doesn't stall. [Suspect, maybe?]
So I figured it was the EGR, or solenoid, so I changed them both out. Nothing worked, still was horrible. Frustrated I changed out the coil pack and wires. It's still horrible.
I don't drive the car now, it stalled out a few times in traffic on the way back before I swapped everything back out.
The icing on the cake is that it has not thrown a single code except for when I unplug the IAC. And the only code it throws is barking at me for doing so.
It really feels like a bad vacuum leak. I've run down every single line and there's nothing leaking or rotten. The IAC is in question, but the car was working perfectly fine for at least a year with no problems whatsoever. So how the IAC went bad right after changing everything and a new harmonic balancer is way beyond me.
I'm thinking too maybe I damaged the Crank Position Sensor when I installed the balancer, since it was a one piece unit with the pick-up gear. But, I was careful with it, used a puller installer, and there is appropriate distance between the sensor and gear. Also, I'm not sure, but I doubt the Crank Sensor going bad would effect idle. Any RPM above 1500 is smooth, and doesn't surge.
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2001 F150 5.4 4x4 148K... I recently replaced the intake manifold on this truck and when the engine revs it wants to continue at high RPMs for about 10 seconds after letting off the throttle. When driving, it almost wants to go faster and the gas mileage is really bad. Had some codes come up and took it to AZO and had them checked. P0171 & P0174. Guess I need to do some testing on the MAF and injectors.
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2008 Expedition 6 speed auto .... I recently had the clutch replaced in my manual transmission car. Whenever I am about to stop in traffic, if I put the gear to neutral I can see the engine's rpm hovering around 1080's rpms, and it only drops to the "idle range" of 700 - 800 rpm if I stop the car completely. I did a test going downhill in neutral and I can see the engine rpms going up a little bit if I let the brakes go. I plugged my obd scanner and used OBD doctor on my phone to keep track of the rpm graph. Here is a pic.. You can see the rpms going 1000's steady and then dropping abruptly when I completely stop the vehicle. So, is this normal?
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Ok so I was going to just swap the whole rear end from drum to disk but it looked to be too much difficult;t. So the rear I have has 278,000 miles in it and its starting to make noise we were thinking about swapping the gear from the disk to the drum because the disk rear has 140,000 miles on it. Both have a limited slip. And 3.55 gears but i was thinking about getting 3.73.... So my question is can I swap in 3.73 gears into a rear end with the limited slip from one with 3.55 gears? Or do I need to buy a different limited slip?
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I have the dreaded slip yoke clunk, I used the FORD SPEC PTFE lube and it works for a while until the tranny fluid that makes its way onto the slip yoke dissolves it!! Replacing the slip yoke with an updated one?
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I have a '97 4.6L 4x4. I've had a few issues recently and am at wits end.
Symptoms: while pulling a boat at highway speed, the engine engine just died. After waiting about 20 minutes for a buddy to show up with a tow rope, it started up and ran fine...until I got home (10 miles). I parked and after approx 5 minutes of idling it died again. No CEL, and found no codes when scanned. 15 minutes pass, it fires up and works fine.
The next day, I hook the boat up again, dive to the lake, go fishing, drive home. Everything was fine. I unhook the boat and drive to work. Half way there my voltage gauge starts falling and 5 miles later all of my gauges end electric stuff dies. I drive two more miles to work and strange beep starts coming from under the dash on the passenger side (I think). After my 12 hour shift it starts and I start my 10 mile commute. Half way through I lose electrical power again but make it home. Now it doesn't have the juice to turn over.
Are these problems related, and what are the possible causes and cures? On an unrelated note, what's the easiest way to replace a rear leaf spring shackle?
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I bought it for cheap. not shure what tranny is in it. So when you you put it in od it will take off and shift fine all the way to od. getting going and drive it a few miles and it will slip out of od into to neutral. I can put it in drive and it does fine. I did lose all forward gears earlier tonight though. First time it did this. OD is the only gear it slips out of. it willl re engage below 40 mph. But I usually just shift to drive and go on.
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I have a 97 f150 (built 96 as 97 model), 4.2l 4x4, auto tranny. Here's the problem, when I turn my key forward to run position my starter kicks on and starts the truck, and stays engaged. I have a constant 14v at the signal wire on the starter relay (yellow red stripe). Also tranny started to slip, od light flashing. I replaced ignition lock cylinder, ignition/ starter switch, starter relay, starter, and today transmission range sensor (neutral safety switch 8 pin), same problem. Cel code that I had 2 days ago was P0707 tr sensor low input.
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