Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Engine Feels Too Tight And Cranks Slow
Nov 21, 2013
OK, after some bearing issues I replaced the crankshaft with a reman. The engine is now in, but it is not turning over like I think it should. It just feels too tight, and cranks slow. It cranks smooth, nothing hitting. It is hard to turn with a wrench on the front bolt. I am wondering if I messed up on the torque on the rod bearings.
I torqued them according to the book. First to 29 to 33 ft lbs, then rotated an additional 90 to 120 degrees. I went with the lower of the numbers, 29 foot pounds then an additional 90 degrees. The mains I tightened to 30 ft. lbs. then an additional 90 degrees.
Are these the correct specs? I did smear a little grease on the main journals before installing, but did not do this for the rods as the book says. Is this maybe something to do with my issue?
I did not measure with plastiguage to see, I didn't realize I was out of the stuff and didn't want to drive 50 miles away to get some! I am also wondering if heating up the bearings on one rod journal might have warped the rod and is binding not allowing it to turn. I did notice when I put it back together it turned a little hard, but figured it would be ok once it started.
View 3 Replies
Advertisement
97 Outback, 143 K, auto. 2.2. When in a tight turn in a parking lot or doing a U turn, the car lurches, like my p.u. does when in 4 wheel drive. Not as strongly, but it does not feel right. There is no CV joint noise, tires seem equally worn. The seller says it is tires, my experience with 5 different soobs says no and I never carefully match tire wear, ( I do not replace all 4)If it is not tires, what might it be?
View 11 Replies
The steering on my Ex isn't working like it should. At times it feels loose when cruising then feels tight when straightening back out after a turn... the wander is really bad...
My PS fluid is also turning into a muddy brown goo every 5k... I changed the PS pump this summer with a supposedly good used one...
What should I be looking at/checking for?
View 4 Replies
The Engine cranks over fine, but won't start. When it does start everything is okay and it runs good with no codes. I noticed that by taking the key out of the ignition, I was checking under the hood, and put it back in the truck fired right up. Also it has never done this to the second driver who has a different key. The truck runs fine at all speeds and loads, even when hauling twenty bags of wet mulch. It's a 2001, 4.6 L, RWD. Could the PATS Chip be failing?
View 9 Replies
I have a 98 F150, 4.6L with approx. 245,000 miles on it. recently it started, then studdered a little bit and died. I managed to get it re-started, it then shuddered a little more although I was able to drive it back up the drive way and park it. Now, it will crank however it does not even attempt to fire. The sound that it makes when trying to start seems odd to me. Like the engine is just turning against a constant resistance instead of the normal starting sound. I tried shooting a little starter fluid into the throttle body and nothing changed. I pressed on the shrader valve and got a spew of fuel to come out so it seems that it might not be a fuel problem though it sure sounds like one. Just curious, what are the symptoms of a truck with no compression?
View 4 Replies
2000 F150 4.6L Romeo 2WD. Engine cranks great. Fuel pump working. Changed fuel filter. Will not start. No codes. Fixed A/C day before yesterday, only had air coming out defroster, disintegrated vacuum hose at firewall. Ran errands yesterday, no problems whatsoever. Get in truck today to go to work and no start at all, engine turns over fine. What next?
View 7 Replies
We have a 2003 Subaru Legacy named Penny. Lately she's been "thumping" when we make slow tight turns -- usually when pulling into or out of a parking spot. This is less of a noise, more of a sensation. Thumping and bumping as if the front tires are flat, but that's not the case. To complicate matters, it doesn't seem to happen first thing in the morning. Starts showing up after a drive of 30 - 40 minutes and continues to get worse the longer we drive throughout the day. Driving straight is fine, less sharp turns also fine. Mechanic guessed axle and replaced both front axles last week. But the problem persists. We are independent musicians, traveling often, and NEED this car to drive reliably!
View 9 Replies
I'm a relatively new F150 owner (just got rid of the 98 Ranger I drove since 99), so I thought I'd check in to see if I was overlooking something obvious. A few days ago, after driving to the store with no obvious issues, I went shopping (coincidentally for oil change materials) and when I returned to my truck it would not start.
Here is a bit of info:
Starter cranks over the engine.
Battery is relatively new, and has plenty of power.
I can hear the fuel pump kick on briefly.
Check engine light is on (EGR Valve fault).
Engine started with starter fluid.
Engine ran like normal after starting.
Finally, the vehicle started/ran fine for a few days before the issue occurred again.
Like I said, I'm not too familiar with the vehicle yet, but I'm assuming the issue must be with the fuel delivery system. I plan on replacing the EGR valve, but I am curious whether a faulty EGR valve cause a no start? Also, I'm wondering if it's more likely that the fuel pump is going bad, or something electrical is the problem since I'm under the impression that the engine stops sending fuel to the cylinder if/when the engine doesn't start quickly after turning the key.
View 6 Replies
I have a 2004 Venture where the power steering feels tight. Fluid level is good. No leaks (had it repaired a year ago where line was leaking, and now repaired).
Turning the wheel under most circumstances feels pretty normal. However, say, doing parking maneuvers SOMETIMES feels like I have non-power steering for maybe a quarter turn, and then it picks up again.
View 5 Replies
It's a 99 f350 7.3 diesel powerstroke. About 180k miles I think.
It cranks fine. I just changed the glow plugs(all were dead) but when you try and start from cold, it takes about 7-10 seconds to fire. The oil res is full, tried disconnecting the EOP sensor, still fires up and takes just as long. There is one near the oil filter, and that seems to not be it either.
Doesn't smoke, no oil leaks that I know of. Not sure what else to check before sending it to another shop to get put on a diagnostics machine. I read about the IPR, but it has no problems when running. Only problem is a very long time to start. Also changed the fuel filter.
View 3 Replies
I have a 2000 f150 lariat. Mo problem started about 2 weeks ago. Around town its fine but when I go over 50 mph it feels like I'm driving down the rumble strips on the highway and after a couple miles it just smooths out and its fine! Yesterday I went on the interstate and it did the same but this time I ran up to 85 and the vibration stopped.
I had another motor put in about 2 months ago, #4, and he changed my rear u joint as well. I replaced the rear passenger side wheel bearing a couple months ago but there seemed like a little play in the axle still but not bad. I've been to the dealer and a few other mechanics but it doesn't do it all the time and they couldn't find what is wrong.
View 6 Replies
My wife went to use our 2004.5 Passat V6 4Motion and it takes quite a few cranks for the engine to turn over and start. It sounds like the battery is losing it's charge. When running, none of the idiot lights show anything.
I have a couple questions: Could the alternator be damaged and isn't charging the battery or is it possible for the battery to be going after only 4.5 years?
If it's just the battery, how easy is it to replace? I've done them on previous cars, but with all of the electronics and stuff, I'm concerned since it's behind the firewall and I've read stories about it losing all of the electronics. I couldn't see an easy way to remove it, but I didn't spend much time looking.
View 2 Replies
This has happened twice in 3 years....I get regular service from a Ford dealer and am overdue.... I think it may be temp related. Has been below freezing the last few nights. Truck was parked on an incline during the last two "shutdowns" ( engine lower than bed slightly), I drifted to a level position and it started. This has only happened twice previously. Now it seems to be a permanent problem but I am unable to get to the dealer without a tow... which I am trying to avoid.
View 2 Replies
My f150 cranks but will not idle unless you hold the throttle at 2 rpm. It has not ran hot. There is no oil leaks.
I've changed the following parts:
Cam sensor
Crank sensor
Fuel pump
Fuel filter
Coils
Spark plugs
Iac
Tbp
Maf
Fuel pressure
Pcv
I've have tried everything i can think of so i took it to a shop they said just get a new motor I don't think so.
View 8 Replies
I'm trying to diagnose a no start issue on my son's 1997 F150 4.6L W code motor. It quit on him while driving and we haven't been able to get it re-started since. We immediately assumed the fuel pump was bad as we were not getting any fuel pressure and we cannot hear the pump running at key on. So we pulled the pump and bench tested it, and the pump itself seems fine.
We then checked for spark, we have spark in all cylinders. After that we started checking fuses and #30 under the dash was blown. We replaced that and it blew again at Key on. We ended up going through about a 1/2 dozen of them while poking and prodding at misc. wire harnesses trying to figure out why it keeps blowing. Today we put a new one in and have tried restarting and that one is not blowing anymore, but we still cannot get fuel pressure. We've checked all fuses and swapped relays around. We noticed that under the dash #20 and #21 do not have power, but the fuses are ok. Are we finally on to something here?
View 9 Replies
I have a 2001 F150 Supercrew Lariat. About a month ago I stopped to fill up with gas and afterwards it would crank but not start. After a few tries the engine would no longer turn over. My battery was 7 years old so I replaced it and the problem went away for about 5 days. Then the same thing, crank but no start. I checked all the fuses & called the local Ford dealer.
After talking with the parts dept. I tried hitting the panic button then the truck started. After talking to parts again I replaced the PATS transceiver. After 3 weeks with no issues the problem came back. This time I locked the doors with the keyless entry remote then unlocked them & the truck started. So I'm wondering what is my problem. Could it be the PATS module or something with the keyless entry module or some other issue.
View 14 Replies
F-150 Super Crew 5.4 4X4 cranks won't start. what and where do I check first?
View 8 Replies
Have starting problems some times, cranks over real good but will not fire . When this happens i have no fuel pres. But after it starts then it will run good This problem usually happens first thing in the morning. Is there a fuel pump relay in this system or do i have a bad pump . I only have 85,000 miles on this truck.
View 6 Replies
Several months ago, my truck begins having starting issues. Intermittently, the truck will not start, even though it cranks fine. I have done the following:
- checked inertia fuel switch. Okay.
- checked connections under hood for corrosion. Okay.
- checked fuses & start relay. Also swapped relays with no luck fixing the problem.
- sprayed water at various locations under the hood and bed, since the problem occurs more often when raining. No luck stressing the problem.
- changed fuel filter a couple weeks ago. No luck fixing the problem.
- changed battery over the winter (due to my 8 year old battery was becoming weak). No luck fixing the intermittent starting problem.
- changed the starter a month ago (since the truck stopped cranking). No luck fixing the intermittent starting problem.
- Installed a fuel pressure gauge on the fuel rail.
- Tried banging on the fuel tank with a rubber mallet. No luck fixing the intermittent starting issue.
When the truck refuses to start, the fuel pressure reads 0. Sometimes I can wait 5-10 minutes, and it will start. The truck runs fine after starting.
Sometimes waiting 5-10 minutes will not solve the problem (fuel pressure remains 0). Then, I hook my battery charger to the battery, and the voltage climbs from ~12.5V to 14.7V. The fuel pressure climbs to 30, and the truck starts.
I'm apprehensive to change the fuel pump, since it seems like more an electrical problem than a pump problem. Any diagnostic test that will tell the true problem source?
View 15 Replies
Here's the deal. Ive got a 2000 f150 4.6 4x4xlt 170000 miles, About 2 ears ago or so the truck would not start on the first try or two. now this only occurred every once and a while. Last winter it became more of a problem. All i had to do was cycle the key a couple times listen for the pump to prime and was good to go. Summer rolls around no problem at all. Fall rolls around and here we go again no prime. cycle the key a couple times good to go. As it gets colder the problem gets worse. No we fast forward to couple a weeks ago, was out in the woods cutting firewood i go to move the truck and it wont start. I have to cycle the key like 30-40 times. Now its doing it like every time i go to mov the truck until yesterday. Now it wont prime at all. Now every time it primed in the past it runs perfect after it starts . the filter has been changed every 12-15000 or every fall, Ive replaces the fuel pump relay to try it no change, tryed the other key no difference. Im leaning towards a pump but ive never heard of one doing this before.
View 6 Replies
About a month ago, my 2001 f150 supercrew (4x4 5.4L) didn't want to start one morning. This was after a very cold night (15 degree temps). It sounded like it had plenty of juice in the battery (cranked good), just wouldn't start. Later in the day, after it warmed up, still no start. I dug thru here, and someone recommended disconnecting the positive battery cable for a minute then retrying. I did it, and it worked. All was good.
About a week ago, no start in the morning again. Tried the positive cable disconnect, no luck. After several hours, it just seemed to randomly start, and all was well again.
Today, truck started right up in the morning, but later in the afternoon (warm winter day 45 degrees) no start. Tried the positive cable disconnect, no luck. After screwing with the truck for about an hour, I decided to put the fuel pressure gauge on the rail. NO fuel pressure.
Is fuel pressure associated with the PATS, or is this a straight up fuel system problem?
Additional info: My gas tank fell out this summer, (recall on those tank straps), and I had a new tank, pump, straps and lines installed. I had a no crank, no start issue this summer, but that turned out to be the transmission not registering in park. I assume the two issues are unrelated.
View 7 Replies
