Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Electrical Plugs To Fuel Injectors Seemed Really Loose
Nov 13, 2013
When doing my last spark plug change I noticed that the electrical plugs to the fuel injectors seemed really loose. The plastic tabs on the harness plugs don't even lock onto the injector plug. Its actually amazing that they don't vibrate loose or stay electrically connected. The plugs are not cracked or damaged that I can see. Is this a problem? I feel that I should replace the plugs with something that has more of a positive "grip" to the FI plug....
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I swapped a 4.9l into a 1997 F-350 that had a 5.8L originally, my issue is the fuel injectors are not working. I did my homework and got the harness that was with the engine out of a 1995 F-150 and also got the correct PCM to go along with my E4OD tranny that is in the F-350. It has spark and 60 plus PSI fuel pressure in the rail and will run with starting fluid shot in the throttle body. Both vehicles came with OBD I so should be compatible there. I do not have 12v to the injectors and obviously the NOID light shows no pulse either. Could be a ground but not sure where to look or what else could cause this.
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97 F150 4x4 XLT 5.4L... I had two cylinders misfiring, removed COP, injectors and plugs. Reinstalled all parts and reconnected all sensors. Now I am not getting fuel to the injectors. Double checked for disconnected wires and hoses, checked all fuses and relays, also the inertia switch. Fuel pump does not hum when key turned on. Tried hitting bottom of gas tank. My question is, before I pull the tank again, is there something under the hood I may be missing. It does get quite crowded at the rear of the motor.
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I've tried everything I can think of and it still runs sluggish.
1. Had dealer change plugs
2. Changed Cop's
3. Cleaned MAF sensor
The 5.4L has slight miss and doesn't respond well at all when trying to pass or going uphills.
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Engine felt like it was running out fuel, injectors were clacking. I got home put on AE and it has a low high open on the code reading. took valve cover off and plug came out. I did the quarter modification.
Anyway took the truck out a few days later truck drove ok when cold then after about an hour it lost power again and started clacking until it died out. I had to stop and let it cool off about 10 times before i made it home. I changed ICP sensor. took it out for ride and about ten minutes later same thing. I have to let oil temp get down to 165 before i can drive it again.
When i first drive it Icp pressure is about 500 at idle and 2650 at full throttle, that is until it starts clacking again and losing power then the engine wont take any throttle..and ICP duty cycle is at 26%... Would bad IPR do this??
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So I am working on my 5.4 I pulled and discovered that is is very oily behind the freeze plugs. The motor is on a stand and has been upside down a few times. There was still a little oil in it as I can see a decent puddle under it where I didn't tighten the drain plug entirely. Why would there be oil built up there? I have the two from the back of the heads out and the two on either side closest to the rear of the block. What kind of issue am I looking at? Here is the build thread that I am doing about the truck and this motor.
DH-Rear of Driver Head
PH-Rear of Passenger Head
PRBS-Passenger Rear Block Side
PMBS-Passenger Middle Block Side
DRBS-Driver Rear Block Side
DMBS-Driver Middle Block Side
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Yesterday I decided to tune up my 2003 5.4 for the 1st time at 82k miles. I replaced all 8 coils with MSD coils & motorcraft plugs. After doing so I went to turn over the ignition & got 1 single click, motor wouldn't even turn over. Battery is 3 months. Truck ran just fine prior to tune up other than the slight misfire I was starting to get.
When I was working on the passenger side I did disconnect the big bracket that had the multiple wire harness on the fire wall underneath the starter solenoid to gain access to the rear plug/coil. Where to start troubleshooting? I checked the fuses under the hood & dash but nothing looked blown.
On a side note I remember when I was putting everything away I tried to lock the truck with the Ford factory transmitter & it wouldn't lock?! I had to open the door & press the power lock button to lock the doors.
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I've got a 01 f150 yesterday stopped running (like it ran out of gas). Has half a tank. Fuel pressure at rails good but truck will not turn over. Fuel pump and filter less than year old.
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I have an 1999 f150 4.2l only 82,000 original miles.i have had truck since new .i just replaced the spark plugs for the first time.i used autolite plat. I also changed fuel filter the truck started to run like crap now shaking and sorta like missing.i pulled the plugs again rechecked the gp reinstalled them installed new wires still runs like crap.went out bought new motorcraft plat. plugs gapped at .054 still runs like crap..so i checked the gap on original plus that have been i the truck since new the gap on them are .074-.075. should i try and gapp the new ones to this the truck ran like a dream with the original plugs at this gap????
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I have a 2002 f150 with the 5.4. Its got a rough idle and a bit hesitant on acceleration. Im wanting to replace the coils and plugs but what brand of coils should I use?
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I have with my F150 5.4 liter truck. I had the spark plugs replaced about 1 year ago. since then I have had 2 plugs back out and come loose. I would smell a faint gas smell first that would tell me know that it was happening. the first plug was if memory is correct either number 8 0r 7 on bank 2. this time its number 2 on bank 1.
I hope that my mechanic just did not torque the plugs correctly and all I have to do is tighten them. If that's not it. Could the spark plug holes be stripped and have to be re-threaded? And if so how us that done?
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Okay, so I am not really sure where to post this. I have one of the weird 1999 F-250s that aren't a SD. The shifter is pretty loose, about 4-5 inches of play while in gear. Shifting isn't a problem, just the play in the shifter that I worry about. I have been trying to find rebuild kits, but can only find stuff for Rangers/Mazdas.
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98 f150 4x4 5.4... So i purchased this truck about 3 months ago and now I am having problems putting it in Park. The column shifter is very loose and sloppy. Is there any way to rebuild this?
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I have a 2000 f150 xlt 4x4 with a 6" suspension lift. Recently Ive had some front end noise, so after swapping out a lower ball joint and the sway bar links, i still have the pop. It only happens when at a stop or slowly moving and i turn to the right and accelerate. It sounds like its coming from the front drivers side. I have wiggled everything in the front end and everything is very tight. The only loose things i can find are:
1) Bottoms of shocks can be wiggled back and forth, both sides do this.
2) driveshaft leading to the front end has a lot of play, but I don't believe that's relevant since its not used when I am in 2wd.
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My 2004 honda civic hybrid has 8 spark plugs. The ones in the back of the motor look like they get much hotter and both times I have replaced them, all four in the back were really really loose.
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I have a 97 ford f150 v6 2wheel drive. I was driving to work when l heard rattling in the engine like something came loose when I stopped to check my transmission fluid was pouring out drained out in 2mins tops. What do you think it could be?
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I have a 1989 GMC suburban V8 350 5.7l that will not start. I have replace the following fuel pump and sending unit, fuel pump relay, ECM computer brand new, new fuel filter. When I go to start it the fuel injectors dont spray fuel into the combustion chambers verified fuel injectors still work by bypassing them and they spray fuel. Fuse's are not blown. I have been told the oil pressure switch might be bad but I'm at my end of sanity on this.
Additional Details : Tried spraying fuel into the throttle body and still no fire, ignition module and ignition coil where replaced 15,000miles ago.
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I took my 2008 Prius to Jiffy Lube to have oil changed. When driving away, I made it about one block and all warning lights came on: Master Warning, Hybrid System Warning, Brake System Warning, Malfunction, etc. I pulled the car over and stopped. I started the car again, lights still there - drove 2 blocks back to Jiffy Lube and lost momentum about one block away, with pedal to floor, I could drive about 5 miles an hour into the bay. They looked at it for about 30 minutes and claimed I had bird seed that dropped under the air filter.... I said "goodbye" called AAA and had it towed to my dealer. They said it was because air had entered the system due to my being low on fuel. I have never heard of being low on fuel and it causing the car to shut down nor did I ever get a warning of low gas, still on one bar. Each time I restarted the car at Jiffy Lube, it started fine, drove forward or backward, then lost momentum again. Still no warning of being out of gas. The ticket from the dealer states:
"Vehicle low on fuel causing ECU to shut down fuel injectors when engine started to misfire. Found codes P0A0F, P3190 in system. Added 5 gallons of fuel and reset ECU."
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Truck ran fine yesterday. Go out to get in it today and the dome and door lights do not come on. No chime when inserting key, turn key and nothing. No dash lights, no head lights, no clicks, no buzz. Absolutely nothing.
I checked and the battery has 12.8Vdc. Both master fuses on the firewall read good. All fuses in the under hood fuse box read good. I am confused. Where to start looking?
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My 97 F150 4.6 4x4 threw a P0302 and P0401 the other day, I traced the miss fire to a loose injector plug. I reset the codes last weekend, I got in the truck and went to the Dump and to town to pick some stuff up. It threw the EGR code again, so this morning I did a little checking on the EGR I cranked the truck and disconnected the FPR vacuum line and hooked it to the EGR valve and the truck died down but didn't completely die.
Now the green line that went to the EGR valve felt like it had a slight bit of pressure coming from it. Is this normal? I did pull the white feed line from the EGR Regulator and it had good vacuum.
The regulator also makes a humming sound when you cut the truck off. Ill be pulling the alternator this weekend due to it going out last night, while I'm in there if Ive got to pull the throttle body id rather do it while I'm elbow deep in it. So does it sound more like a Clogged Throttle body or a Faulty sensor?
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I have a 97 pontiac sunfire that will crank, but will only start when I hear the fuel pump running. My mechanict says that the fuel pump is not getting electricity. He is not an electric automotive mechanic, so what needs to be checked when the fuel pump is not getting electrical current. How do i fix it?
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