Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Electrical Malfunctions - Temp Gauge Pegs Without Getting Hot?
Nov 27, 2014
I just bought a 97 f-150 from my dad, there are some electrical issue's but the main one seems to be battery drain.
I have noticed with the truck off key in my pocket, the a/c doors keep trying to move and the a/c head has power to it.
I know the engine has been replaced, with about 20k on it.
The temp gauge pegs w/o getting hot, and it even turned over once while we were getting in the truck. Again key in pocket.
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97 f250 4.6l engine pegs the temp gauge after start-up. the oil pressure light comes on then after a few miles down the road anti-freeze blows out the pressure cap (15LB) then the temp goes down ,the oil light goes off and everything is normal. no its not the thermostat, i changed that and it still does it. whats up with that?
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I own a 1997 ford f150 V6 engine and I have problems with the electrics. I turn the key on and the engine starts up runs great but I then look at the gauges and not one moves at all the. No fuel when i have just filled up,no tep,no oil,no battery all read nil. I went a drive and the speedo reads 0 it does not move but the truck drives great. Could it be a fuse, does a fuse control the gauges, which one it could be. I have lifted the hood and under the hood on the drivers side there is a box with small and larger fuses.There is one that is very small and the colour is white that's blown. Would you no what that fuse is for.
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When I purchased my truck 1999 F350 about 5 years ago, I was told it was on its third transmission since the awesome 7.3 diesel engine has 200,000 miles on it. At first I noticed that going up a hill with the truck empty would cause the tranny temp gauge to climb to 250 degrees F. Nowadays when I tow my boat or carry my camper, the temp gauge pegs over 250 and the overdrive light flashes steadily when I do any hill climbs. I have had the fluid flushed several times, and I have a large fan powered oil cooler too. I also recently noticed that the tranny heated up when the truck is just idling in place.
I just got back from burning man and during the 800 mile round trip the overdrive light started flashing at least 6 times and the temp gauge read over 210 the whole time, with it pegging over 250 during hill climbs. No fluid boiled out but I am very concerned that damage is being done.
Is it possible there is a clog in a line somehwere restricting the flow of oil? Or should I replace the tranny?
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Just about every trip i take my temp gauge pegs and dinger goes off and check gauges lights up in the message center. It eventually will go back to normal or if i shut key off and restart truck it goes to normal. im guessing it is the temperature sensor for the gauge but not sure?? If it is, where is the gauge sensor located?
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Problem 1: Headlight switch occasionally needs to be jiggled to get headlights on.
Problem 2: Wipers only work in the "spray and wipe" mode.
My Solution: Removed dash, installed new switches, replaced dash.Result: Now the right headlight does not come on at all. Wipers STILL only work in the "Spray and wipe" mode.
Question: Where do I go from here?
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Problem: The exterior temp. gauge is blank.
It used to fade in and out and I discovered if I pushed the button that switches from degrees F. to degrees C. it wold come on for a bit, but no more. It's just blank.
I think I've seen a thread on here about similar issues but I was unable to find it. I'm also not sure how to take the overhead console off yet. The console consists of ext. temp gauge, sun glasses compartment, and compartment for a garage door opener.
Some truck specs:
Year: 2001
Model: F150 Super-crew
Motor: 4.6L
Mileage: 250,000
Color: Silver
Original motor, second transmission.
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I have a 2002 supercrew 5.4 triton. My coolant temp gauge is acting up. When it starts up its obviously in the cold range but when the truck begins to get up to temp, the gauge only goes up 1/4 full. What it can be?
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My '97 F250 5.4L is pumping coolant on to the top of the motor which is burning off causing it to smoke like it's overheated but the temp gauge is operating in normal range. I'm losing coolant but can't see where. It's not going to the ground. It just pools up on the top of the motor. I've already replaced the water pump in the last 2 weeks because of the same issue. It stopped for a few days but now it's back again. Bad water pump from O'Reily's or is there some other issue here? I've checked while the motor's running and can't see where the coolant is coming from and there's no coolant coming out of the bleed hole in the top of the new water pump. I need this truck up and running.
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My son bought his first truck, 1998 Ford F150 Supercab 4.6L Auto. (Proud of Him)
Salvage Flood Title, looks like engine been replaced. (Not so proud of him).
Anyway, vehicle seems to run and drive fine, however, failed emissions test.
P0125 Code pops up, Temp Gauge is not working, pegs all the way hot after truck is running, changed out Both ECT's in front of engine, one is right beside the other, I guess one goes to PCM and other to Gauge.
Now Gauge is reading all the way cold, let run for over 30 minutes and still shows nothing on Gauge...
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I am looking at a 1997 F150 with a 5.4 in it, guy who owns it says if you drive it down the street the temp gauge climbs and then the truck goes into limp mode but if you check the engine temp under hood it is nowhere near overheating. Where I should start to look for a problem here? If this is too complicated I will pass on the truck, its not worth it to me to get this truck if it is going to be a nightmare. I have a 2000 with a 4.6 that runs great so this would just be a spare for me, but would like to have it because its in such nice shape.
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1998 f150 4.6 4x4 auto 180k .... Runs 100% other than a strange and inconsistent overheating issue.
On cold startup truck will warm up. Then the temp gauge drops to practically 0. After 15-20 seconds gauge shoots up to max and then falls back to normal after 15-20 seconds. Then it'll go back to driving normally. At some point it pukes.
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Was driving my truck I have a 97 f150 4x4 4.6L, btw. The heater started blowing cold air and I looked at the temp gauge but it was showing lower than it normally does and then, after a couple of miles or so I looked at the temp gauge again. By this time I was in my driveway. And it was overheating it might have been that way before I looked at the temp gauge again. But any way I opened the hood didn't see any leaks, all my hoses were hot except the top heater hose. Also checked the oil it was full and coolant was too, what this could be? Sounds like a t-stat to me? But could be worse. Also forgot to mention that the oil had no signs of water in there nor the expansion tank cap !
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I have a 1995 Ford Taurus, and I just swapped in a new engine from a donor from 2000. The engine is a Flex Fuel 3.0L Vulcan OHV.I've got a wealth of background knowledge as a mechanic [5 years+] and an electrician [4 years+]I have swapped over everything required to make this work, in theory. I swapped exhaust, fuel system, and computer/harness and all the relays to go with it. I also made a custom gauge cluster from a 2000 Taurus as well.
Well everything works just peachy, all the wiring for the most part is correct minus a few buzzing relays that I just need to work out. The main issue this [now monster in my eyes] has is the PCM is not telling the FPDM to tell the Fuel Pump to start. Turn key, and no 3 second startup. I've checked the fuel pump, and it's fine. I replaced the PCM and that didn't solve it. I have the security system from the 2000 in there as well, thinking that was an issue. I also have the emission sensors and canisters installed, just like you would see in the 2000.
I'm at my wits end trying to figure out why the PCM isn't sending voltage out to the FPDM. I had to of missed something along the way but I double checked and still can't find anything. How to get this working properly.
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I have a 2006 Ford F-150 V8 XLT 4x2 SuperCrew that I had to replace a few old/blown bulbs on (left Front Blinker and rear Right Blinker/Brake). I decided to go with the Pilot brand LED replacements, and verified that they are the correct replacement models to the factory bulb part numbers.
Per what I've read from others' experience doing this... I opted to buy the EP27 flasher to fix the issues with hyperflashing, rather than going with Load Resistors. So, all LEDs blink/flash with no problem.
The issue seems to be related to me having the Headlight Switch in the DRL-on position, and the headlights/parking lights not being on (i.e. if it's still daylight and it's just the DRL). If the Headlight switch is left in the off position or in the DRL-on position, when I brake or signal (left or right) the entire electrical system will flash/illuminate with the brake/flashing activity (this includes all LEDs and brake lights and the Stereo backlighting... anything that is dimmed by leaving the Headlight switch in an 'off' or DRL-on position). The only way to fix the problem is to turn the Headlight switch into the parking or headlights on position.. then the issue doesn't occur, all signal and brake light activities work as expected.
It's not a big deal, but I guess I'm lazy and like having the headlights come on and off automatically... plus, I'm a little worried that there might be an electrical issue that could cause me issues if I don't address it now.
The only thing I have NOT done is replaced the LEDs back with Incandescent bulbs, to see if the problem is totally eliminated. I have verified that no fuses are blown in the fuse panel, etc.
I'm sure the issue is easy to fix and I'm hoping the fix isn't to remove/replace the LED lights with OEM lights..
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Today I was driving to my moms house. I had been on the road for about 2.5 hours. My ABS light came on, I didn't think anything about just figured a sensor was dirty or bad. About 30 min later the radio shut off then all the gauges bottomed out and the truck lost all power. I was able to coast/idle off the road. I called a local parts place and they had a replacement alternator for me. While I was at it I also replaced the battery. I started the truck up and hit the road again. I drove another 45min with no issues.
Does this sound right or am I missing something else?
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My truck is a 2004 F150 XLT, 4.6L 2 wheel drive extended cab
The truck starts fine. With no lights on, heater/ac blower turned off... my turn signals and hazards work as they should.
If I turn on my headlights, I have no turn signals and the indicators on the dash are slightly lit up along with my highbeam indicators. The actual dash lights do not come on.
The blower does not work at all regardless of whether the lights are on or off. Turning the blower on immediately creates the same issue as the lights. (no turn signals, slightly lit up indicators, etc). The blower does not work on any speed. I can hear the duct work changing direction behind the dash as I move the blower selector from dash to windshield to floor, etc. I can also hear the compressor kicking on for the AC.
What I have done: I have checked all the fuses. I have attempted to remove every one of them while running to see if anything shutting off would let the blower kick on. I have unplugged the blower entirely wondering if there was a dead short. I have removed and unplugged the resistor to see if that might be an issue. I have also removed the right side kick panel and checked the ground wire there that runs to the dash. Everything so far seems to be in good order.
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My power door lock switch in the drivers door stopped working (not the actuator problem, but the actual switch would unlock, but not lock the doors)
I started to research if it could just be simple corrosion and decided to spray the contacts with CRC electronics cleaner. It completely fixed it.
Next, my parking brake light sensor stopped working so I did the same and it fixed it.
I began to research cleaning contacts and found a number of people in the automotive forums who basically spray contact cleaner on every electrical connection they ever touch.
I will do this in the future. The only part I wonder about is if there is something better to spray on them to prevent further corrosion in the future. I used dielectric grease but it would be nice to just spray the thing down. However, CRC does say their electronic cleaner prevent future corrosion.
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I have a few issues with my 05 f150 that I need to know how to fix them
-the odometer display flashes on and off, the warmer it is outside the less it stays on
-heater blower doesn't work when the switch is on number one position, works fine on other positions
-power mirrors don't work neither side
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OK... My '00 GLX 4-motion 30v has started to really piss me off! It started about a month ago with the trunk latch. The light would come on in the dash and I'd check it and it would be open. I didn't open it! Then when I try to reclose it, no luck. Won't latch! So I look at the latch and it seems to be broken. But then I was driving down the road and the trunk just locked itself! I couldn't even get it to latch the day before and now it's locked! Next the rear view mirror decides to go all hazy and piss all over the dash! WTF! Now the autodimmer doesn't work! The rain sensing wipers quit and now the delay setting just does nothing! Then, as if that weren't enough, the A/C just decids to not work anymore! It won't turn on the compressor. It was working fine when I got to work and then when I got back in a few hours later, nothing! It has good system pressure, but it's like the controll unit isn't telling the compressor to kick! Up untill this point the only problems it's has giving me were the infamous tie rods and some wheel bearing noise from up front, oh and the camshaft seals. Starting to get pissed at the thing! Leaning toward the BMW side of things very quickly.
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I did the installation of the start/stop button and it works. However, I have some unresolved issues. I have done a search in the FAQ thread but could not find anything referring to the following:
1- When I lock the car, either with the fob or with the door buttons, the alarm will sound when I enter the car if I unlock it using the door handle sensors. I can disarm the alarm with the fob, but it is not disarming with the door handles. How can I solve this issue so that the alarm is disarmed with the door handles? Can this be solved using a VAG-COM?
2- When I turn on the alarm, either with the fob or the door handle, the alarm indicating light blinks for a few seconds, then goes steady, and then blinks normally. I had not noticed this steady light state before. My alarm, I think, always went straight to blinking and stayed blinking
.
3- When they gave me the car back the adviser said that the seat would not move and the trunk would not open. However, I think they ran down the battery because the interior light was on. The dash displayed the "start the car now" message.
a) I had an almost two hour drive back home, do you think that the battery recharged in that time?
b) Was there any lasting damage done to the battery?
c) Is it safe to charge the battery with a trickle charger or do I need a special and specific charger?
The trunk now operates OK and the start/stop button also works. I wish the alarm also did.
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