Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: EVAP Not Ready But No Codes
Oct 2, 2013
My 2003 F150 4.6 wouldn't pass emissions testing last week due to the OBDII not being ready to test. I knew that would happen as I had just reset the code (I get a CEL anytime after a heavy rain - I think it is a bad coil coming). After I reset and drive for a while, I don't get any codes and everything is ready but the EVAP.
I reset the computer on Friday. Let it sit overnight. Filled the gas tank Saturday. Sunday I drove a 200 mile round trip. Ran the cruise control at 60 for a good 50 miles. I did some local running around. All things that should have/could have triggered the EVAP system to run.
Where is the best place to start looking for problems? I changed the gas tank a couple years ago and I think everything is tight on it. Should I just change the gas cap in case it is the culprit?
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Here are the codes I'm getting:
P0455 - large evap leak
P1451 - main control (evap canister)
P0306 - cylinder 6 misfire
P0174 - bank 2 lean
are these all related? Or two separate issues. I have replaced all the evap lines with new lines. I have a new egr valve, and exhaust manifolds, and what should I look at 1st
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2002 olds alero 3400 engine.....I had a code of a p1401 insufficient flow to egr ..Which is most of the time the clogged passage. I took the throttle off an accessed the egr passage. Boy was it clogged with carbon so I cleaned it out thoroughly, which fixed the problem.
I reset the computer I drove it a few days and now all the monitors are ready, except the evap monitor. I have drove a few days highway, street, stop and go etc my tank being half filled etc. And its still not ready. Car has to take emission soon. Its a coincidence because the Alero ac isn't working so it can't be turned on right now.I ran into a similar problem with a 2000 Monte Carlo the evap wouldn't go to the ready status he had a short somewhere and the ac compressor would work intermittently. The compressor finally worked one day with defrost on and the evap went to ready.
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2001 Prizm/Corolla - CEL is off, no trouble codes, all other monitors are ready, but not the catalytic convertor. No repairs since a new battery mid December. The smog guy (California) says that he can let another monitor go but not the cat; it costs him too many points.
Is this a converter in the early stages of failure (150,000 miles; some oil consumption)? Or is there another possibility?
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1997 f 150 4x4 5.4 right now has a 145k miles.
About a year and half ago (120kmiles) the check engine light came on, checked the codes; 1 left bank to lean. 2 right bank to lean. Cleared the codes drove for about 3 weeks and the light came back on same codes, cleared the codes, drove for about 3 weeks and the light came back on, this continued with shorter times between the light coming on. Did this until sept 2012 took it in and Ford replaced the MAF, all good until today Jan.8, 2014. The light came on today I checked the codes 1 left bank to lean. 2 right bank to lean, cleared the codes today, the light staying off for right now. My best guess is that the MAF is again bad, my question is; how long does a MAF last, why would it fail in just over a year? What can I do to make the the MAF last longer.
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I just failed inspection because check engine light is on. The codes state that catalytic converter and O2 sensor are "not ready". I understand it has to do with the computer but not much else. Someone on Mazda 6 message board provided a complicated sequence of driving instructions including maintaining various speeds and RPMs for specific lengths of time which they said would reset the computer. My mechanic is at a loss. This car is a lemon and I would just like to get the inspection done so I can trade it in and get something that doesn't keep breaking.
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The check engine light came on in my truck and while I suspected it was a misfire (driving along it will misfire like crazy at certain RPM). What I cannot figure out is exactly which coil is causing the problem. I get these codes:
P0306 - Cylinder 6 misfire --> Easy enough, cylinder 6
P0356 - Ignition Coil F Primary/Secondary Circuit --> Which cylinder is this?
P0356 - Ignition Coil G Primary/Secondary Circuit --> Which cylinder is this?
Assuming that cylinder 1 is the front left (when facing the vehicle) am I right in that cylinder 6 is the 2nd from front on the right (when facing the vehicle)? Would Ignition Coil F also be on cylinder 6? and therefore ignition coil G be cylinder 7?
The other code I am getting are both the same:
P1740 - Powertrain
P1740 - Powertrain - Transmission System Problems
I suspect these 2 are related to one another, the odd piece is it drives fine other than the misfire. Hoping to cure the misfire so that it drives smoothly and I can then figure out the P1740 code.
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We sold a customer a 5.4l engine and he installed it and it idles just fine, but falls on its face when put under load. Truck is a 2001 f150 and is not around here. Cus gave me these codes:
P0135
P1130
P0174
P0308
P0351
P0352
P1131
From all I have found, it appears to be a lean condition and cop #1 and #2. All of these codes pop up all at once after r&r ing an engine? I am thinking bad intake gasket and possibly bad coils.
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My scenario: 2000 F150 4x4 Supercab 5.4L 161k miles. Codes on my scan are P0113 intake air temp sensor 1 circuit high. P0102 mass air flow volume low. P0305 cyl 5 misfire. P0307 cyl 7 misfire. The 1st code I'm unfamiliar with sensor location? 2Nd code i replaced air filter, removed MAF sensor for cleaning and it appears to have only 1 heating wire or filament. Shouldn't there be 2? Plugs were changed approx 15k ago however COP's were not. Should that be my first remedy for 305&307, new plugs and coils? Also what is next sensor in line between MAF and throttle body? Is that the sensor from code P0113?
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I have the notorious EVAP codes that have been intermittent for years now. But a few months ago, the problem got much worse and now codes are set almost instantly after getting cleared. The "Check the Gas Cap" message comes up about once in ten trips.
The thing I noticed almost immediately once the problem became persistent, was the silence. Usually my air pump belts out a high-pitched scream when the car first starts. Now it doesn't seem to come on every start. But, it still comes on sometimes.
So, is the air pump the likely culprit or does the pump not come on under certain conditions (like a loss of vacuum, faulty solenoid, etc)? I know that an A/C compressor won't engage when there's not enough pressure in the system. Is this a similar situation?
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Ok, did a quick search, found nothing. Is there a way to get CEL codes without a reader on '01 F150? I know the way on 80's stuff, is there on newer stuff?
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Truck has been running rough and the check engine light was on so I decided to get the codes read and I got back P0302 and P0304, which from what I understand is a misfire on cylinders 3 & 4. At the same time I got Ford to do a little diagnostic and this is what they wrote for me:
"The connector for the number 2 coil is broken and will not stay plugged on to the coil and the number 2 coil is not working / replaced the wire for the coil still running rough removed the coil and plug. the plug was very badly fuel soaked started the vehicle to see if there was spark at the plug. OK. Suspect either a injector issue or a compression issue cleaned the plug seems better. "
So of course they quoted me for the works. They say I should replace the coils, plugs, and injectors???
I am pretty mechanically inclined and think I could change these things myself since I am on a budget. One tech told me is that the plugs can seize in these engines often and could scrap the whole thing??? Seems a little weird. If that happens though what could I do?
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I have a 1999 f150 4.2l that the abs light comes on going slow, under 25mph. Replaced speed sensor still there. Hook up my scan tool and get connection error. Only in abs mode. Check fuses and power point's. Scanner works on a buick fine.
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Just put a cold air intake on my 99 f150 with a 4.6. its a CAI with a 4" tube and its not an oiled filter. there is NO vacuum leaks, the mass air flow sensor is clean. I am getting the codes 171 and 174 now and i know its from the intake because that's when it started running lean. Is there any way or anything i can adjust to fix this other than buying a 300 dollar programmer?? If I take it to a ford mechanic will he be able to fix this?
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I have a 1977 f250 460 with c6. As far as I now everything is stock on the motor. The carb is a motorcraft but I cant see what model it is, there is a ID tag that I need to get the numbers off of so I can see what I have.
I don't know much about carbs so I'm trying to learn as I go, but what has me wondering about the secondaries is going up inclines. We have a canyon that is a decent grade and long, I was towing a empty flatbed trailer and with my foot all the way down could never get it above 40 mph it just felt like that was it. I have been out playing with no trailer and it feels like I can get them to open up when it down shifts, but cruising along at 55 and stomp it nothing.
I am worried about pulling our camp trailer with it and that is the main reason I got the truck with a 460. What to check?
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My buds 2003 4.6 liter stalls every time he takes his foot off the pedal. Runs fine otherwise, no roughness or anything, you just have to keep your foot on the thing to keep it from dying out.
We checked for codes and found none. I checked vacuum connections and they looked OK.
Is there an easy way to test the IAC or should we just throw a new one in and cross our fingers? If we do change it out, does the truck need to be driven around a bit for the computer to re-learn anything?
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The truck ran fine this morning and this afternoon I had trouble with the truck running at idle.
The idle is at about 450RPM in park. Runs smooth with no miss but if you bring the idle up and then let off quickly it stalls. Can stall while trying to idle at warm up also. Sometimes it will stall at a light but I think it is related to taking my foot off the pedal quickly.
There is no check engine light on and there are no codes. I have 138K on the engine now. Both air & fuel filter were replaced about a month ago as well as the PCV valve.
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Driving a 2002 f150 5.4 liter, 4 wd. 128k miles. Recently started driving truck after sitting in garage for 12 months. Started getting codes 403,316,171 and 302 Changed plug and coil on cyl 2 for 302& 316Also egr valve, dose removed and cleaned throttle body. Drove 20 miles and all 4 codes came back.
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Ok, so this past week i towed my 72 f250 to IL from CA. 2100 Miles. 6100#s with the trailer. No problems at all. Got about 9 MPG too the whole way. Ok, so here is my problem now. As some of you may know, IL just got about a foot of snow. Its all slush at this point. I am living in the country right now so i drive thru alot of it. Ok, now you know the back story, today i drove the truck to my brothers house, put it in park and bam! check engine light came on. About a half hour later i drove it to AutoZone and had them check the codes. Here is what they pulled.
P0705
P0171
Need to know what to replace. I have to drive it back to CA in 4 days.
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I took my 2008 prius with 183,000 miles in last week to have recall work done on it. they did the following:
1. Accelerator pedal recall
2. Steering shaft recall
3. Hybrid Electric water pump recall
The following day when I start my prius my check engine light comes on so I figure it was something they did on the recall work. I do have a scangauge, and the only code that showed on it was a P1304. I took it back to dealer today, and was told that it had multiple EVAP codes, and that the canister on top of gas tank is bad, and will need to be replaced. They said it was full of gas. They asked me if I stopped fueling car when pump shut off? I told them I always go to next whole dollar. They said to always stop as soon as pump shuts off(but on some pumps they shut off like crazy when pumping gas), I told them to just clear codes, and I would get back with them if I decide to have canister changed. So far check engine light has stayed off ( dealer is about 100 miles away)
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Trying to troubleshoot my 2001 Elantra (173k). I'm having intermittent trouble codes being set and I'm wondering if they may be related:
P0302
P0303
P0446
The cylinder 2 and 3 misfires are relatively recent. Plugs and wires are visually ok (and not that old). I swapped plugs 1 and 4 with 2 and 3 to see if the plugs are bad. It took 3-4 days, but the P0303 set again (and it's very intermittent - car will noticeably lose power for a few seconds, code set, then run fine for several days). I also sprayed carb cleaner on the intake manifold gasket with no change in engine idle, so the gasket appears to be intact.
I had read in a forum somewhere that the misfires could be related to a vacuum leak, which could also be setting the P0446 code. I removed the charcoal canister and inspected the lines - visually ok.
I bench-tested the canister control valve and it did operate, though I noticed some charcoal blocking the valve so it would not close all the way when energized. I used compressed air to blow the debris out of the valve and it appears to close properly now.
I went to hmaservice.com and noticed there are no instructions for the P0446 DTC. I've been using a Haynes manual instead. For quite some time now when refueling, the fuel nozzle shuts off every few seconds (I have to slowly put the fuel in to avoid).
Some questions:
- Can these codes be related?
- Based on my symptoms, should I replace the canister control valve? What about the charcoal canister and the charcoal air filter - should those be replaced as well?
- What else should I check?
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