Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Driver Door Unlocks Multiple Times When Turn Off Key (6 - 10 Times)
Feb 5, 2013
2003 F150 Super Crew 5.4
When I turn off the ignition, the drivers door lock unlocks or pushes the arm through the door for up to 30-60 seconds over and over again. I would say like 10 times and it is annoying as hell.
Is the only part in the door that controls this the actuator or is there something else that can be doing this?
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I had been having battery issues with my 97 ford f150 4.6 liter for the longest time, thought i had a short under dash, i pulled entire dash out, disconnecting bat first of course, and inspected all wiring harness connections and fixing my issues and putting it all back together. now with new bat and all put back together i am now getting the airbag light flashing 5 times then 2 times (error code 52) i know it has some thing to do with power failure or backup battery, but now with the new battery in i cant seem to get it to reset. How to do this?
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My drivers door lock (unlocks) at random times and it doesn't seem to matter if the car is running or not, or if I'm even in the car or not. When it activates when I'm not in the car it sets the alarm off (which doesn't impress the neighbors at 3 in the morning). I can even hear it try to unlock the door when I'm driving with the door already unlocked. I would think it may be a short somewhere because my (fairly new) battery goes dead. Also my "traction" light is flashing (a more recent development). Is that something that might show up on Code reader?
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I've got a 1997 F-250 that as soon as you put it in gear to go forward, the doors lock as is the norm on these "new" vehicles. My complaint is that when you stop an get out, the drivers side unlocks, BUT the passenger side doesn't. THEN invariably I go around to get something out of the passenger side and its LOCKED. That's when my blood pressure goes into orbit. A trip to my dealer yielded no cigar. He stated that some models could be tricked into unlocking, but not this one.
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My blinkers started off blinking a few times then stopped working, now they don't work at all. The fuse says it goes to the brake lamps, hazards and turn signals. The hazards work as well as the brake lamps. I found the relay/flasher box and it appears the relay and flasher is the same for both the turn signals and the hazards. I checked for the wire/connector problem in the column and all looks good there. When I activate the turn signal lever I feel one click in the relay/flasher which leads me to believe the turn signal switch is working. I went ahead and replaced the relay with no results. Is the flasher internals the same for both the hazards and the turn signals or is there two independent sections inside for each?
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I have had this happen two or three times and don't know how to reproduce reliably. With my FOB in me, car beeps a few times when trying to open the driver's door. This is repeatable when in this mode; that is, trying to open the door produces few beeps but door will not open. The last time this happened, I clicked the open button in the FOB, and this produced the few beeps without unlocking the door. The passenger door opens, and my wife can unlock driver's door from the inside, and then I can turn car on and go as if nothing had happened. The best I recall this has happened in the garage. which is why the passenger door is unlocked, but don't know why driver's door is locked. Again, this has not happened enough to recall the pattern.
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Had a hot no start going, found dummy plug issue, replaced dummy plugs. While in there I cleaned the injectors (passenger side only) and put back together. Cranked multiple times, had to recharge batteries a few times as it is in the 10 - 20 degree temp range. No joy on re-start following the work.
Numbers I'm getting are:
KOEO With ICP connected:
ICP - 0
ICV - .07
IPR - 14.8
While cranking
ICP - eventually builds to 400+-
ICV - eventually increases to .13
IPR - maxed at 84.7
ICV too low so...
After disconnecting ICP
KOEO
ICP - 0
ICV - 0 (disconnected)
IPR - 14.8
While cranking
ICP - up to 1693
IPR - to 65.5
Still no start.
Ran through FICM check and the numbers are fine - 48 key on, 47 key during buzz, 47-48 while cranking.
I do get oil pressure registering on the dash gauge.
Fuel is in the filter housing
Oil filter housing refills with oil as expected when cranking
Only code is the P2285 once the ICP is disconnected
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So, I bought a 2012 camry se about 2 months ago and as soon as I got it home I noticed a clicking in the drivers side door when I open and close it. There's three clicks before its fully open, I'm thinking that it clicks at every stop point the door has. I know there's some models that have this put it stock so the wind doesn't blow your door shut on you, is this what it is? I tried looking online about it but couldn't really find anything.
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I thought my brakes were sticking........don't think thats the issue. My rear end bounces....you can see it, and its only certain times...mostly when its hot, or I've been driving for a while (an hour maybe)
I have been taking notes on the symptoms, and finally got some noise today. When the rear end starts to hop it sounds like you are riding on rims and it will actually slow the truck down if you let off the gas.
The brakes aren't hot beyond reason, and I've noticed that it occurs mostly after making a sharp turn???? Or a fast medium turn such as a quick merge.
I think something is either coming loose in the rear or ?????? Not sure Also, when I pull my camper I haven't had it happen yet.......may be a coincidence.....? Or the fact that I take turns slower when its attached.
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My digital odometer is funky! Sometimes time it works sometimes it doesn't. Sometimes it works on start up than after a lil while it fades out.
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When I get near the driver's door on my 2008 Prius in attempt to unlock the door, nothing happens. However, when I get near the passenger door or the rear hatch, they will both open but the car chirps 5 times. The driver's door remains locked. It's not the battery in the key FOB, because if it was, no doors would open unless I remove the key from the FOB and physically open the door the "traditional" way.
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My 2004 explorer honks 3 times on lock and 4 times on unlock when you just press the remote once.
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Trying methods found elsewhere on this site not working anymore. No matter how much wd-40 and door slamming I do, I am getting the 4 short honks on lock and 2 on unlock. No door ajar light and interior lights go off as normal so it doesn't seem to be door open sensor.
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It started sputtering at random times a few days ago and the check engine light came on. The two codes are p0401 (blocked egr system) and p0402 (egr valve stuck open). It seems to do it most when it's cold but some days it'll do it non stop.
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I'm having trouble with my 2004 Ford F-150 5.4 Triton V8 starting, when i try to start it i have to move the shifter all the way down and up multiple times with the key open in order to start the truck. I don't what it is I think it may be the Neutral Safety Switch or Shifter cable.
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So I've had this code come up and go off multiple times its P0A93 which has to do with the inverter Coolant pump, and all the posts I've read about it here, none of them had an intermittent problem with it. Like it will come on and then I let it sit overnight adn it will go off. When I take the cap off the reservoir there is turbulence in the coolant and I've bled it many times. It came on and shut off 2 times on my drive to New York 3 weeks ago but then didn't come on again until today, almost 2500 miles later. And today when the light came on it listed these 4 codes.
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My 02 f150 Xl intermittently chimes 4 times while running. No door ajar light, no dome light on, no seatbelt light lit.. All these lights work as expected. What I am hearing and how to get it to stop?
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For some time I've thought my starter is going bad because I'll have to hit the ignition multiple times for it to actually start...I've even had to resort to push-starting it a couple of times. How can I tell if this is a bad starter or something else like the main relay?
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Don't know about this code? Can't find any info on it anywhere? Saw it come up multiple times with my own eyes. 2007 Touring
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I have the keyless wireless option and one of my key fobs stopped working so I put a new battery in. So now instead of blinking once in the upper right-hand corner when I push the button and working properly instead the little red button in the corner links three times and nothing else happens . I even switched batteries from the one that still works to the one that does not work in case I got a bad new battery but no changes on either key.
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2000 Buick 3.8. stop for gas, red light, etc. engine quits. 1st repair shop said fuel pump bad. Replace filter pressure okay. car starts later, quits multiple times. 2nd repair shop, car quits while there. Mechanic comes out with tester and says "no spark", ignition module bad, also spark plug harness bad. Replace just wires, and car runs for 9 months, no trouble. Now car quits while driving, no sputtering, just quits! Wait awhile, car starts, but 30 miles later, quits. Seems that hot weather has something to do with it, although it quit on a cold rainy fall day and had a hard time starting again. It did start and ran for 300 miles before acting up.
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