Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Dies When Turning To Left And Pull Into A Parking Space
Jun 7, 2012
I just had my EGR valve and hose and DPFE sensor replaced and the truck is running better than it has in quite a while except that whenever I turn to the left and pull into a parking space it dies.
I've read that it could be a bad power steering pump. This would make sense because mine is pretty noisy when I make a left or right turn. However, it has never caused the engine to stall before. This didn't begin happening until immediately after the recent maintenance.
Is there something I should be looking for that my be related to the new EGR valve/hose or DPFE sensor?
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So I've noticed at times when I make a turn or when backing out of a parking space and cranking the wheel I hear a knocking sound. What it is? 2013 F Sport with 37K miles. Under warranty so taking it in either way but just curious on what it could be.
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I have an 01 Hyundai Elantra that has had power steering problems for awhile.
Awhile back, when we would fire it up, we'd get a loud screech. Eventually, my father in law replaced the power steering pump and belt.
Now there is a new issue. Ever since he has replaced that, on start up, there's a small screech and when turning out of a parking space, the steering wheel is tough as if the power steering isn't working.
I was thinking it's the power steering pump pulley, but can't seem to find any real stores that just sell the pulley itself. I did see the pulley have a minor wobble in it when examining it. Thinking maybe its the bearings on the pulley.
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My wife's car, a 2003 Buick Century, has died a couple times on her while driving. Each time has been while she was in the midst of a left turn, so I think that is relevant. Today it is a humid, raining off/on kind of day, but she says that she thinks the last time it did it was a dry day. When it dies, she pulls over, puts it in park, and restarts the car, it runs normal, no problems. She said she has turned the ignition switch off, and then starts the car, and has not tried just turning forward to start, however her daughter said that when it died on her, she could not turn it to start - she had to turn it off then back on and it started fine.
Her daughter said that she had it die once while sitting at a traffic light, so I may be off base thinking that it is related to a left turn. The car has about 155K miles on it, and the only engine work that has been done on it other than maintenance is that the catalytic converter was replaced a few years back, when it was plugged up.
On this same car, I have to spray brake cleaner on the ABS sensors (front) about every 3-4 weeks, when the ABS light and the TRAC Off lights come on. Is there some way to keep them from becoming fouled?
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When I turn left a "clicking" noise appears, it's rhythmic and I figured it was the CV joint at the drivers side going bad. Bought a new one and installed it. Clicking seemed to get away for maybe 5-7 days. Then it occurred again. Because the package in which the cv joint arrived was very roughed up I thought maybe it took damage during delivery and bought a new one. Installed and guess what? Took a drive after that, NOTHING and now it's clicking again. It's so loud you can hear it when you drive behind my truck and I'm turning. Doesn't seem to make a difference if I brake or not.
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Not really sure what happened. Drove into town on a nice casual drive after lunch to pick up some stuff at the hardware store we now have (we're big time now). About a 4 mile, uneventful trip. Went in, did my business, came out, turned the key on, bumped the key to the auto start thing, shifted to reverse, began backing out of space and the truck started beeping at me like I've never heard before.
Stop and keep my foot on the brake and the message center is just posting multiple messages and dinging each time a new one comes up. Had to hit the OK button on the steering wheel to clear many of them. Things like, low oil pressure, low coolant, powertrain malfunction, reduced power, shut down engine, the end of the world is near (I made the last one up).
Decided that it was either a catastrophic failure in 2' at 2 mph, or an electrical glitch, neither of which I could do much about. Decided best course of action was to shift to park, idle for a few seconds and turn the truck off.
Counted to 10, went to restart, and nothing. Like both batteries had been removed. No dash lights, nothing from the starter, nada. Turned off, counted off 30 seconds and more of the same. Repeat this time waiting one minute using the watch and again, nothing.
Pulled the key out, tossed it in my lap and waited 5 minutes while dreading having to call my son in law (who now is driving my old truck) to grab a trailer and come rescue me. Either 5 minutes or key out of ignition was the key because truck started up with no more warnings other than the SES light.
Vehicle health report said oil and stuff was good (dipstick said it was good too), but the end of the world was coming and I needed to get to a dealer right away due to the light.
Used forescan to pull the codes and nothing major jumps out at me, but the common theme seems to be the computer lost contact with all the electronic gizmos and it was apparently too much for the system to handle. I did not clear the codes (attached to the bottom of the thread).
Question now is, truck is less than a year old and has a bit over 33k on it. Do I clear the codes and chalk it up to a non-verifiable electrical gremlin, or take it in to a dealer for who knows how long to let them look at it before the 36k warranty goes?
If they reflash the computer, I'd have to add the nav again, but not sure a reflash would fix anything other than just giving them something they said they did.
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My Toyota land cruiser 1993 dies at low speed only turning left....ONLY leftSo, it started last year while in low turning left off road she suddenly died and I just about rolled her, but was able to turn her back on and keep going albeit in higher RPM. Now, she dies all the time when making a slow speed left turn and ONLY left turn. Also, in low she bucks and starts to die....
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Our V6 Touareg stalled while reversing out of a parking space last night. We have about 21,000 miles on it, and never had this problem before. I was able to fire up the engine again without any problem... by the way, can you tell if the battery is good or not from the battery meter in the instrument cluster?
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My 2006 santa fe drives great,,,except now it makes a low squeaky noise when parking and turning the steering left or right...it does not make that noise while driving at any speed in a line or on bumps...the strut top plates? can i just grease that?
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I have a 2003 Volkswagen Golf 2.0L 5 speed manual. Over the last 10,000 miles a problem started where on the highway in 5th gear, if i try to speed up by putting the pedal down, the steering wheel moves itself to the left and the car steers to the left. The wheel returns to the original position when i let off of the gas. its scary at high speeds and has become so bad that I can feel it accelerating at low speeds too.
The alignment is off and the steering wheel slightly to the right. when I put the gas down and it goes perfectly straight and when i release it goes back to the right. it has 126,000 miles on it. I know it needs tires, shocks and an alignment job but don't think that those factors are causing my problem. Could it be the motor mounts?
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My 98 F150 4WD with 83k on it has a significant pull to the right most noticeable on the highway. I have to keep the wheel turned to the left to be able to go straight. It use to be intermittent but now is constant. Had a frt end alignment done twice with no change. Recently after a long drive on the highway on a crazy hot day, I pulled into a rest area & noticed the L/F wheel was very hot to the point where I thought the plastic center cap might start melting.
The R/F wheel was only warm. This makes no sense to me because with something causing the L/F wheel to heat up I would think it would pull to the left. This has bothered me so much that I've driven with 10psi less in the L/F wheel hoping it wouldn't pull to the right so much but it had no effect. I did recently have the left upper control arm replaced because it was clunking. It was doing this pulling prior to that & it continues.
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Have a 2001 F-150 with 4.6L. when i turn the key and pull it out the accessories stay on. What could be wrong and what can i do to fix so I don't have to keep disconnecting the battery?
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I have 97 f150 x-cab 4.6 auto 4x4. I'm gettin ready to pull motor & trans to rebuild both. I was wondering if I can pull both while still bolted together without having to remove the cab??? And what else will needed to be removed.
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I recently purchased a f150 with a reg cab short bed 4.6 4x4, and when you put it in drive the it shifts up to second fine, but when goes to third just revs up doesnt pull at all. Have to shut o.d. off and goes steady but run 2500 rpms to go 40 mph. I was told to check the solenoids but i dont know, if i do need a new trans how do i identify my trans. I know it has the code "U" on the door sticker, but its an 4r70 w code-w. But the junk yard has a YL3P-FA and a YL3P-JA?
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Engine will start and run but will miss in a pull and die sometimes but will start back, we hooked it to a scanner and it said (intake wiring) it wasn't a dealer hook up just a gas station garage, we have already done plugs and wires.
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The problem makes the car unsafe to drive. The quickest way to describe it is a hard pull to the left after a very linear steering feel. My perception is almost as something is holding on and then just fails and lets go and the car quite abruptly shoots left in a very unsafe manner. Here are the things I have done to remedy the situation, I replaced the struts with factory replacements 15,000 miles ago. At the same time i replaced the left and right axles, drove the car with the problem then last weekend, I replaced the upper tie rod arms, and lower tie rod ends, the sway bar bushings, and the control arms on both sides. I literally feel as though it is a darn near new front end.
Just yesterday I had 4 new Goodyear eagle tires and an alignment done and the problem became more pronounced and worst. I really like this car and want it to be a joy to drive as I know from others these little hatchbacks are a real joy on winding mountain roads.
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Fuel mileage is terrible also but the truck really has no power. Running down the highway it kicks down just to pull a small incline. Check engine light is not on and there is no hessitation. The truck has 105k on it and i have put only 5k of those miles on. I did pull a couple plugs and they are autolites so plugs must have been changed at some point. Does this sound like a coil problem?
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My truck is starting to shift strange. As it warms up and I'm in drive, it will shift between drive and 2nd by itself. When I pull up to a stop lite, it's like it's stuck in drive and doesn't downshift. Ultimately it dies. I've checked my fluid and its fine. Any ideas? Oh and my engine light is on. Can a parts store find the code for the issue I'm having?
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2000 F150 Lariat, XC, 2WD, 5.4L, 4R70W
I don't know if this all started right after I got back from towing a 3500# lathe + 2000# trailer back from Texas a couple weeks ago or if there might have been some slight symptoms before. I do know that this really got bad a couple days ago and I haven't driven the truck since then.
So, here's what is happening. I noticed a few days before that when I would back out of a parking space, the truck didn't seem to go right into reverse. It was as if it was in neutral, but as I was reaching to jiggle the gearshift lever, it would engage and I could back out just fine. All forward gears, and shifting, have been fine all along, including lockup. I kind of wondered if the shift linkage had somehow moved and was on the edge of being in the right spot, so I was going to have a look at it one evening soon. Then a couple days ago, I went to back out of a parking spot at work and it wouldn't go anywhere.
Just acted like it was in neutral. Put it in drive and it engaged just fine, then back to reverse and nothing for a few moments before it finally engaged. Then, as I was backing up, it acted like you might expect a limited slip that was not slipping to behave. But, that was right before I put it in drive and went home. After I got home, I tried it out some more and found that in reverse, it just wouldn't go anywhere unless the truck rolled a little bit. I don't know if the rolling really had anything to do with it or not, but the driveway is on a slight incline, so it happened, and then the transmission would engage. But, when it did start to back up, even straight, at first it acted like it was under a load, then when it started to move, it bucked really badly. Put it back in drive and all seems fine.
There are no codes set. Trans fluid is full, and doesn't smell or look bad. I've searched for reverse shudder, and other stuff, and there are threads about the TC, about no reverse at all, and a bunch of other stuff, but nothing like this that I found.
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I'm considering ordering an IS350 F-Sport RWD in the next few months and I compare everything to my wife's 2013 BMW 335i Xdrive. I guess this is a legitimate comparison since both are in the same category. However whenever I look at the interior pictures one thing pops up : the size of the NAV screen. Why on earth did they leave around 1 inch of unused space to the left and right of the screen? It annoys me because everything in the interior looks more upscale than the 335, but this thing looks so cheap.
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I'm getting tired of this. Bought my Ex in April 2013
Realized in June '13 that truck would pull to the left a little when I braked. Replaced pads and rotors. Factory pads and rotors looked normal but whatever.
December 2013 - shimmying when braking downhill (not towing). Replaced rotors, pads and calipers with Power Stop.
September 2013 - Everything was good but I now have the the left pull about 35% of the time when I brake. After extended downhill mountain driving (7%+ grade for 15 miles) I get the shimmying. I only get the shimmying in this situation.
When I had my tires rotated (reputable shop) I was told I only had a 2-3k miles left on my pads.
I do drive aggressively so I'm not surprised I need to replace my pads more often, especially on a large vehicle. That said pads wearing out at ~10k miles normal?
I was going to just order new pads and install them this weekend but what is going on. Ex currently has about 64k miles on it.
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