Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Dash Warning Lights Stay On
Nov 14, 2012
Just recently now the dash warning lights stay on or come back on shortly there after when the key is removed. I replaced the ignition switch. I can even leave the wiring to it disconnected with the same result. When the positive battery cable is removed and reconnected I can hear relay or relays clicking.
I pulled all one at a time next to the master cylinder in the two boxes. same result. I pulled all relays in the fuse box in the cab one at a time. no change.
Maybe related about a month ago the hvac fan stayed on. we had to turn that to the off position to remedy that. than it "fixed" itself. Starting points to check on this 4.6 with 361k on the clock 99% original....
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After starting my truck the dash warning lights (oil, battery, brake, low fuel) stay lit and flicker for 20-30 seconds then go out with the exception of the battery light. It remains dimly lit for 2-3 minutes before finally going out. The battery and alternator have tested OK. I cleaned the battery ground connections andreplaced the check light relay. Still the same situation. '86 Nissan Hardbody Pickup ....
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Yesterday I changed two burned out light-bulbs in the a/c control panel. When I tested them after dark they worked as designed. An hour or so later my brother-in-law called me to tell me my interior lights were on. When I walked out to check the lights were off. This morning my wife drove the truck to the store and called me to tell me the interior lights were staying on. Didn't have this problem before replacing those burned out bulbs.
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I've been getting ready to take a camping trip with the, new to me, Superduty and going to rent a trailer. When I bought the truck it had no brake controller and the aux relay box was pretty dusty so don't think it's towed in a while. I got my self a controller and the jumper harness to go form the factory connector to the controller, then went to local parts supply and got two standard auto relays and a 30 amp maxi fuse. I noticed after installing the system the reverse lights stay on after putting the truck in reverse, they don't even go out with the key off.
Did some further testing and found pulling fuse 28 (central Elec) the circuit stay powered up, but only after shifting to reverse the first time. Can only turn off lights so far by pulling the trailer relay at the back of the aux. relay box where the two "towing" relays go, I fairly certain it's the "Trailer back up lamps relay". The power mirrors stay powered up too so the relay control circuit is staying powered but only after the relay is energized. What the issue maybe or where to look for a short? I guess there is the a less obvious possibility too - did ford use some funky special wiring for the relays meaning my standard automotive relays from the parts store are incorrect?
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1997 3.2 2WD 299,000 miles original alternator
3 times in the last month when I start up first thing in the morning dash warning lights are lit up and the electrical system is not charging. AC doesn't work and windows operate very slowly. A simple rev of the engine has resolved the problem. However, the belt is very tight (and I mean very) and there is no indication of it slipping.
This morning, a rev didn't solve the problem. I only work a few miles from home and my mechanic is also very close so I just figured to head that direction. About 1/4 mile later charging kicked in and everything worked just fine.
I hate Intermittent electrical problems Where to start.
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I've seen This Problem discussed about GMC models but not Toyota Avalon. Why does my '97 Avalon ABS & Track Off dash warning lights Continually flash on occasion? Also, on occasion while making a turn, my car just shuts off! So far, it's started right up without stranding me.
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Got in my truck this morning and noticed the service engine light, oil light and gas cause were all still on. It also had little dashes in the odometer box. The seatbelt alarm goes off as well. What is going on?
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I was driving home and the dash lights went out. I checked all of the fuses and they all check good.
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My dash lights and hvac lights don't work my brights indicator and check brakes lights are on so I think there's power going to it. I checked all the fuses and replaced the dimmer switch and checked all of the wires in and around the cluster. All bulbs are new and checked. I don't know what to do now and I couldn't find another post that had something i missed. 1997 5.8l F250 ....
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Just got this truck, and found out i have some kind of issue. At night I can't see the dash because the dash lights don't work. I have checked all fuses and they are good. I did find this plug, and I'm wondering if it may be the cause of my dash not lighting up.
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I have a 1997 f-150, and the other week i was driving when my driving lights went out. My Day time running lights went out in the front (DRL) and my driving lights in the rear won't come on either. The dash back light wont come on, and neither with the lights behind the A/C panel. I checked all the fuses, and none were blown, and I still replaced some anyway. And I replaced the actual headlamp switch itself. I have no clue what to do next.
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I am working on this 97 F150 with the EOTF. It is not doing anything. When i turn the key on, no light on the dash comes on. When i operated the 4wd switch, nothing happens, no lights on the dash, no relay clicks or transfer case noise, etc. It has a new t case motor, the switch tests out good. I have researched for a while, and either find people with different symptoms or the original poster never updated with what the fix was. I am unsure where to go at this point, i am suspect of the GEM or the t case relay, but don't want to go replacing stuff without a basis for going so. Ive tested for voltage at the switch as well and it has 5 volts at pin 3.
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I recently aquired an f150 from a tenant, it's an 2003 with 219k, v6. When you first start it all the dash lights and needles go berserk and it will only run for a second, if you press the trip button over and over until eventually the lights are solid it starts and runs fine. If you disconnect the battery for a while it will also start and run fine. What this is? Guy also said the intake runner control valve is stuck open, where is that at?
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1997 Expedition ... I've looked through quite a few 4X4 issue threads and haven't seen my issue described yet ..
When in 4X4 high most times all is well but every once in a while the lights on the dash will flash from 4X4 to 4Lo then 4AWD then settle right back where it should be at 4X4. I don't think that the front axle is being affected as the truck doesn't seem to fall out of and then back into front axle lock.
My guess is that this is an electrical issue but will get to the bottom of it and report back.
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Brake lights do not work. The turn signals work, the flashers work, and the running lights (head lights) work. I checked the bulbs and both filaments light up during the above processes.
I removed the brake switch at the pedal. When I was removing it, I heard some clicking under the dash. I connected the 2 pins with a wire (bypassing the switch), and got a spark a few times along with the clicking sound like a relay,and the brake lights would come on, but now nothing. No sparks, no clicking. The flashers and turn signals and running lights still work.
There are no blown fuses in the fuse box to the left of the steering column. Is there a relay somewhere under the dash just for the brake lights?
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I'm trying to get an F150/1997 started that's been sitting for about 2 years. After installing the battery, turning the key, nothing happens. No click, no turnover, nothing. The dash lights come on along with open door chime.
What to check first or troubleshoot this? The vehicle was running fine when parked, battery removed. I was thinking the brake pedal switch might be corroded, or maybe someone unplugged something under the hood or tampered with something.
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Just bought this as a daily driver. This being my first truck and USED with over 100k in miles, I got it at a deal, but I am worried it might be a lemon. The engine is giving off 8 codes (listed below) that I pulled off my obd2 wifi scanner. This morning was a failure to start with all lights appearing on the dash. There is allot of accumulation around the terminals on the battery as well but the scanner read nothing about a faulty charge. I am trying to have my truck working soon so I can stop asking for rides ... broke down (5.4L triton straight piped )...
ERROR CODES:
P1131
P0171
P0174
P0316
P1151
P0401
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I have a 98 f150 4x4, 4.6L 150k miles, during start up the blinker indicator lights on the dash illuminated and stayed on, when trying the blinkers they did not work, but if I shut the head lights off the blinkers do work and indicators respond normally. This is the same if I turn the fan blower on, blinkers don't work and indicators stay illuminated. Also I have found that the power windows, and 4wd no longer work. Other functions work such as power mirror, radio etc. all fuses under the dash and under the hood are good, I tried switching some of the relays to see if that changed anything but with no success . took the kick panel off and inspected the grounds and all seem tight. It looks like the main battery ground is just to the body and there is one solid ground from the frame to the body under the cab. all seem tight and don't appear to be corroded. Truck starts and runs great.
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I painted the senser on the dash black on the inside so the headlights stay on all the time. My question is the dash lights don't stay on all the time, I assumed they would with the headlights on and senser cover painted, drives me nuts with the dash lights coming on and off. How to make dash lights stay on.
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2010 ford f350 super heavy duty diesel...
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2000 lesabre picked up this car cause person didnt want to deal with problem any more. car starts n runs fine, but all instrument panel warning lights would come back on as if you turned on ignition but didnt start engine. everything fine for about 2 seconds after starting, then all lights come back on, gas gauge plummets to empty, and radio and door locks go dead. read alot of forums but this problem not to common. finally found one that said rear integration module replacement fixed it. so i unplugged it and opened the case n looked for bad solder or burn but couldnt see anything. flexed it a bit looking for cracks- nothing. put it back in and car worked great for 2 days. hooray! not so fast! left it outside the 2nd nite, went down to 22 degrees,- same problem. figured id try a used one from a boneyard. working great going on 2 weeks now, cold weather and all!
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