Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Crunching Sounds From Front Passenger Side - Wheel Turns Hard
May 14, 2015
Had crunching sounds from front passenger side. Replaced CVJ shaft and hub bearing/assembly noise gone but tire turns hard by hand drivers side turns freely. Looked on line and guy had same thing going on said maybe 4x4 vacuum actuator might be bad and truck stuck in four wheel .does this sound right? I have manual trans and gear box so I don't understand why the actuator is even there.
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Just started noticing that whenever i turn right the passenger side front wheel vibrates. 2003 ford explorer xlt 4x4. i asked a friend and he said cv axle.
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On my 2003 Excursion 7.3L, I notticed I'm leaking what I think is coolant from the passenger side rear hard line by the front spring hanger. I haven't pealed the plastic loom away yet, but I did see the loom is chaffed near the spring hanger. What lines are the ones that carry coolant, and can I just cut the hard lines and replace with a section of rubber hose?
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At least this is how I did it after a P0133 code.
The back ground on my truck (see sig) is that I am the second owner (my former neighbor was the first) and it has 293K miles on it at the time of this post. The truck is bone stock FWIW.
I searched the internet and couldn't find a good step by step replacement write up. The front oxygen sensor on the passenger side is hard to get to so here is what I did:
Jacked the truck up and placed jack stands under it. Removed the front passenger tire and the plastic wheel well liner.
Tools needed for this part are a 7/32 socket and a trim tool remover (for the plastic push in fittings).
There are 5 screws and 3 or 4 plastic push retainers (don't know actual term) to remove.
Because of the location of the sensor I had to remove the transmission dipstick tube. *If you do this have a pan or bucket under this area as you are going to lose fluid* the dipstick tube is held place by an 8mm bolt about the middle of the exhaust manifold. Unscrew it and with a little pressure the tube will pop up and out, and so will some fluid.
Wheel well liner out and dipstick tube pulled out of the way.
The connector where you will disconnect the old 02 sensor is tucked up behind the engine block and is kind of hard to get to. A little time and patience and you can get it separated.
From underneath the truck I cut the end off of the old 02 sensor (because the closed end of the wrench wouldn't fit over it) and used a 7/8 box wrench to unloosen the sensor a little at a time until I could get it out with my fingers.
I put the new 02 sensor in finger tight and then tightened it down with small turns of the 7/8 wrench until tight
The cord on the new sensor is longer than the factory one so once reconnected I used zip ties to keep the slack up and away from the hot parts.
New 02 sensor installed and dip stick tube back in place. Note the attachment approx 1/2 down the dipstick tube. It is the 8mm bolt I previously mentioned.
Wheel well back in place. Truck lowered back to the ground.
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My '02 F150 just developed an oil leak. It appears to be coming from the passenger side front. I'm just assuming here, but could it more than likely be the timing cover? I'm 150 miles from home and I'm debating on getting the timing cover gasket on my way home tomorrow. Also, if it is the timing cover, what other gaskets should I replace? Pretty sure the water pump oring.
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I have a f150 with a 5.4L with 354,000 miles on it. It started leaking water somewhere on the front of the motor on the passenger side. it looks like it is under where the heater hose connects to the intake. I guess my question is can the water eat a hole in the intake?
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Two weeks ago I was driving home from work and my heat stopped working. I pulled over and saw coolant dripping badly out of the bottom of my truck. I popped the hood and sure enough, coolant was bubbling out of the front passenger side of the intake. I took it to a shop to do the work (quoted at 500-550 out the door with a dorman intake). A week goes by and I get a call from the shop, "After two Dorman Intakes, the truck is not running right", what it could be.
The truck has 367k on it (not sure if original motor). Yesterday I get a call from the owner, " we put the original intake back on and fixed the leak with jb weld. The truck still runs bad. They claim they didnt do anything wrong and will not take any blame for ruining my engine. (Keep in mind the truck ran PERFECT when I took it in there). The truck doesnt throw any codes and they are at a loss of what could have happened. They put in 8 new plugs and 2 coils that they broke while in the process of removing the intake. F150 5.4 ...
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Have a 1998 F-150....heard a strange noise coming from the front passenger side of the truck. Parked and turned the wheel and heard something fall off. It appears to be a shield of some sort.
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I had my front driver side wheel bearing blow on me, out of nowhere, while doing about 70mph on my '03 Supercrew 2wd. it really destroyed my spindle and rotor. i replaced everything from the spindle out (rotor,pad,caliper,caliper mounts, bearings,etc). I packed the bearing really good and put it all back together. Well, it happened again, same thing. Doing about 70 and it just blew out of nowhere. Why it could be happening??
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Working on a 2000 F150 with the 5.4 and as near as I can determine its leaking antifreeze externally at the front of the passenger side head gasket. Seems a little odd. The coolant is a nasty dirty orange color. With the truck running on the hoist it was dripping very steady off of the very front exhaust manifold bolt.
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My rear bushings on my 1997, A4 Audi, make a crunching thumping sounds when the body torques over irregular surfaces. My Audi mechanic says that it is the bushings. Replacing the A frames and bushings will cost more than half the car's worth. I belief that dust got into the bushings when I went on dirt roads in Death Valley or they are just worn. When I blast the bushings with water the noise disappears or dampens for a while. Car has 186,000 miles.To keep the noise down, can I add graphite or some other material to the bushings?
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I have a 2003 F150 manual 4WD with 4.6L engine and 165000 miles. When i am driving i feel a vibration in the steering wheel and on floor board that intensifies when i press the accelerator. I do hear an irregular humming that sounds like it is coming from the driver side front. I checked the wheel for any play but it was very tight. i check tie rod ends, ball joints no play. i recently changed both u-joints on the rear shaft and the bearing hub on the passenger side front. Also, the steering feels a little 'wobbly' when i make sharp turns. it almost feels like it is giving. What else should i check?
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I have a 2002 Extended Cab F150 2WD 5.4L 3.55 Open. I have recently begun to notice a clunking or "sounds like something mechanical shifting" when I come to a stop or take my foot off the brake before accelerating (as in, when the light turns green.) The shocks are shot, so, some of the noise when I stop is likely due to bounce back, but the noise when I take my foot off the brake is clearly not related to suspension relaxation.
I jacked up the front, passenger corner and checked the wheel play. I immediately noticed wheel play in both 12/6 and 9/3 hand positions. First thought was obviously ball joints, but when I looked more closely I found that the steering knuckle itself was not moving at all. (I only had one corner jacked up, so, the torsion bar might have been stabilizing the steering knuckle to some degree, but...nonetheless, the wheel play is still there.)
So, the wheel play is between the wheel/rotor, and the steering knuckle. To me this suggests wheel bearings. But, I'm not sure how much play is allowable between the wheel and the spindle. Should the rotor/wheel move at all with respect to the spindle/steering knuckle? How much is okay? Does movement suggest I need to replace the wheel bearings? (I installed the rotor and wheel bearings myself last year.)
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2000 Ford f150 4.6 ... I am hearing two things one is a noise from the left side of the car it sounds like air being let out. The second I think I already figured out but its chirping I think its the harmonic balancer because it took so long until it started spinning and made a chirping noise because it sounds lower than the belt tensioner which I already replaced, along with the alternator, and the belt.
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I have a 1998 Gr Cherokee with an automatic tranny. It is slow to shift when cold and the overdrive shifting works reasonably well but I have been told by a reputable mechanic that the tranny needs a new tranny filter at over $1000. My latest check of the tranny fluid and the level and quality indicates both are good. Should I replace the tranny filter?
Also, for the same above vehicle, when I put the vehicle into a moderately hard turn (right and left), the front wheels audibly click and you can feel the click vibration in the steering wheel when happening.
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Went and got new tires on the supercrew. Went going through parking lots or simply driving i hear a loud squeal like brake pad squeal. I put brand new wagner ceramics on the truck. Also if i turn to the left the driver side rear sounds like brakes are dragging against the rotor. Whats goin on with this. The squeal will happen between 10 mph to 20 mph and the grinding noise will happen if I am cruising or turning to the left. It goes away when i apply the brakes.
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2012 truck, started making a noise today. I cannot tell what it is, but seems to be coming from the passenger front suspension, its a crunching/light clunking sound, happens when going over bumps, when the truck pitches one way or the other turning, and coming to a stop....
Truck has 6k miles, I did a quick visual inspection this afternoon, didn't notice much, but the sway bar endlink looked a bit odd though, not sure if normal, its gota little bend too it and seems to just contact the vac line mounted behind it, seemed unusual...
Maybe its its just one of the crappy rancho branded shocks is junk?
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I just purchased a 2000 Hyundai Accent. I was told it has a bad wheel bearing on the front driver's side. I am assuming that would be the clicking sound that associates with speed. I was told the cv joints or axles were replaced but have a leak. I couldn't see a filler hole or one to check from. I also don't see fluid under the car from parked. Also, there is a humming which sounds like knobby mud tires. The humming disappears during hard right turns.
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Passenger side front wheel won't engage
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Waiting on a flatbed ... Everything was normal and then my abs light comes on then crunching sounds from my left front. Would a hub or wheel bearing cause this?
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1998 Ford Windstar 3.0 van. After in town driving for for 1/2 hour or more, my passenger side front wheel begins to heat up severely (partially melted the hubcap). It also begins to "grab" as if the emergency brake is on. when it cools off, it seems to rolls normally. I am nearing not hearing any obvious bad bearing noises when it is cool.
It seems like an obvious bad wheel bearing issue, right? Before I take it in to a shop to replace the bearing and the hub, I want to explore if it could be a faulty caliper that might seize when it heats up.(something I can fix easily myself)
What can I look for to diagnose? When it is cool with the wheel removed I see no obvious issues with the brake pads/caliper, but that is not to say it doesn't act differently when super hot.
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