Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Constant Power On The Bottom Pin Of PCM Relay
Jan 23, 2015
Let's start from the beginning. I have an 03 f150. After loading it up for a big kayak trip, it wouldn't start. The odo read all blanks and the theft light was blinking rapidly( for about a min, then the "16 code")
Soo I checked all the fuses and relays with multimeter and they all checked fine. Checked all the connections and everything else right in front of me.
Soo this is where I'm stumped. On the pcm relay, I get constant power on the bottom pin. I also get power when the key is on to the right pin. The ground is good(left pin), as I used it for the test.
Now if I jump power from the battery to the top pin the truck starts right up. No theft light, and the odo is fine. So I replaced the relay, even though it tested fine, because that had to be it...right? Still nothing...
Not really sure what that means, or where to look.
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I was getting ready to run a fused wire from the battery to the rear of the truck to power my bed lights. Then I read where some owners have jumped the trailer charge relay socket to provide constant 12v at the 7-pin trailer plug.
I never keep my trailer cord connected to the truck when camping so the chances of the trailer draining the battery are nil.I don't want powering the bed lights from other sources as I have decided I want 12v to bed light switch always available.
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I've got a 97 truck, broke the crank, swapped in a motor from an 07. Heads down is 07, intake up is 97. had heads planed and a valve job with new seals done. Left it alone from the rings down. Got it in this weekend, running today. Ran it in the driveway with no load for about 30 minutes, top end was noisy for about 5 minutes till the top end got good and oily (I'm assuming). Purred like a kitten, sounded real smooth. Took it for a drive around the block, heard the clatter in the video below. It's almost always there when driving. Brought it back, turned it off to check oil, it was a quart low. Added oil, startup was VERY labored with a real hard knock in the bottom end. Ran like poo till I gave it some throttle for a couple seconds, then it cleaned up and idled well. Let it run for a couple minutes, turned off and let it sit for a couple minutes then started back up, same thing. Very labored with hard knocking.
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My 1999 Ford F-150 failed inspection for frayed driver-side seatbelt (a common problem according several parts sellers). I have obtained a used shoulder harness assembly from a salvage yard but I have two questions:
What is size of the Torx bolts? (the star shaped ones) Looks like T55 but I don't have any to compare. I'll need to buy the socket and I assume a generic version will fit my ratchet.
The top part of the harness looks simple enough to remove but do you need a ratchet extension to remove the bottom bolt?
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I have a 97 F-150 that the A/C went from blowing cold to hot instantly. I have done the following;
1. Checked fuse. Was good.
2. Checked Low Pressure connection.
On this, I jumpered the connector and could not get the clutch to engage. I also checked to make sure I had 12v from that point, which I did.
3. Checked the power to the clutch assembly. Got nothing. I also put 12v directly to the clutch and it poped in just fine.
Based on all of this I think I have a bad relay between the low pressure sensor and the clutch assembly. The only problem is I cant find it. Where this relay is located
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I have a 1998 f150 xlt, supercab, 4x4, 4.6 Romeo (truck production date is 12/97). And I have a oil leak.
Its on the drivers side of the engine. There is a nipple on the head, next to the firewall, directly above where the exhaust pipe and exhaust manifold meet. It looks to have some sort of bolt/flush stud inside the nipple. I have oil seeping by the bolt/stud and leaking onto my exhaust pipe. its a constant but slow drip.
What this is or how to fix it? Is this a common problem? I can take a pic but cant find my camera at the moment.
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My 2001 F150 was dead, my son came in and told me Dad when I open the door I hear a clicking. Upon investigation a relay in fuse panel was clicking and I had to jump start the truck. NOTE- The truck has a brand new battery purchased 3 days prior to this issue.
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My truck has started fine every time I've turned the key except for last night after work. I got in had all the lights on the dash and dome lights. I turned the key and nothing. Not even a click. Hooked it up to a company truck and it fired right up and ran fine. Drove home shut off and then started it a little later and it started fine. Then this morning it wouldn't start. I hooked up the jump pack and still nothing. I drove my fusion to work and when I got home I went out and it fired right up like nothing happened. Does the work sometimes not work other times sound like the solenoid on the firewall? 2000 4x4 4.6 auto 253k miles
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I bought a 01 F150 with the 5.4 motor in it not much over a year ago. The truck needed quite a few things but the price was right. I have been dreading fixing one issue I knew about when I bought the truck. I figured I would ask here before contemplating taking my 12 year old truck to ford.
I have done quite a bit of reading about the airbag codes and in some cases people suggested the passenger switch led can burn out causing the light to occur. Here's what I know,
The truck has not been in a accident. I bought it from the owners son who only knew where to put gas in the truck. The father took care of the truck and he assured me it was not accident related for what it's worth.
Upon start up there are no flashes of the airbag light. From the time the key is turned ign. on to the time I shut the truck off it is a solid light. Early this spring I soldered a new led in the passenger on/ off switch with no change. I wonder if the switch is bad but I did not see a proper way to test it.
A airbag light code reader would seem to possibility but I have not seen any auto-part stores that borrow that type and my obd2 scanner cannot pull those codes. Where to start with troubleshooting?
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Locating subject relay on my F-150 XLT Extended Cab, 4.6Ltruck. All my research thus far indicates it is somewhere on the truck. An electrical diagram I've come up with shows it in the "Blower/Flasher Relay Block". So my question is exactly where is the Blower/Flasher Relay Block?
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I have a constant whine going down the road with foot on the gas. Back off and it quiets up. At 2-3 MPH i think i can here a " tick- tick". Took the drive shaft off, wheels off ground, cover off and oil out. Spin wheel and i can hear a tick - tick, I think around the pinion bearing. No play up and down or in and out, but it appears to have 2-3 times the backlash i would expect. I used the screw driver- stethoscope--- still think its the bearing. This is a 9.75 axle. What kind of luck would I have pulling the yoke off and going in from the front without removing axles halves and ring gear? I thought I had read that here before. Never done one that way .
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I have a 98 f150 Lariat 4wd Automatic with a 2000 4.6. When i turn the key the only thing that happens is i hear a relay in the fusebox in the dash clicking. I can cross the starter relay on the firewall with a screwdriver and itll start right up. Heres what ive done troubleshooting wise.
1. Checked battery terminals. Fine, it will start with jumping the relay so it seems good with that regard.
2. Tested the relay per the manual. Good.
3.Ohms Tested the white ignition switch box under the dash per manual. Good
4. Voltage tested the Trans Range Sensor per manual. Good.
5. Checked over all fuses, none blown.
6. No theft lights come on.
I figure since it will start jumping the relay that the battery, starter, and starter solenoid are all good. Only thing i cant seem to find is the Starter Interrupt Relay, or any sign of fusible links on the main battery cables. I am really at a loss here i figured one of the components ive tested would be it.
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This is on my 98 F-150 4x4 with the 5.4 and 4R100. What happens is when I put the truck in reverse and get on and off the brakes, every time I do so a relay clicks. It sounds like it's right up behind the instrument cluster.
I stuck my hand back there and can feel the click resonating in the metal brackets, but I can't figure out where it's coming from. It's never done this before and I'm worried something may fail at an inopportune time.
What this may be? It's a really loud click too and only does this in reverse. Park, drive, neutral etc. are all fine. The odd thing is when I hear the click everything still works as normal, parking lights, brake lights, reverse lights.
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1997 Explorer V8 AWD Codes I have
C1185 ABS power relay output circuit fail
C1102 Acceleration Switch Malfunction, may not apply to AWD
B1318 low battery prob had that issue sometime in its life, currently bat is 12.4 and 14.3 running.
And ABS light is on.
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1999 4.6L won't start after sitting a month. Ran fine before, now won't start. Cranks fine. Cannot hear fuel pump turn on when key is turned. Fuel pump fuse is good.
Fuel pump relay clicks a few times when key is turned. Is this normal? I am hoping it is the relay and not the pump. What should I check next? The wires at the pump? What should they read?
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I have a 2002 F150 FX4 Lariat, and last week while driving at night with the light switch turned to auto lamp the lights suddenly started turning on and off rapidly and there was a clicking noise, which I assume was a relay cutting out. I turned the headlamp switch to the on position and the lights stayed on. When I got home the lights would not turn off, and when I turned it to autolamp the blinking started again, but in any other position the lights stayed on. I had to unhook the battery. I then purchased a new headlamp switch and my ford mechanic buddy installed it, but now the autolamp feature will not work. Is there a relay that may have got cooked?
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I am having trouble with my 2001 F-150. Starting yesterday it would not start. At 1st i thought it wa the battery, so i took it off, charged it, put it back in the truck and still no start. There is a clicking noise coming from a relay in the cabin fuse box, disconnected the battery, removed relay to inspect and everything looks good. After plugging it back in, and connecting the battery, the truck still wont start and there is a clicking sound coming from the dash near the radio. Rhis is my work vehicle!!!
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Have another oil leak, just finished the pan flange gasket last weekend, made it 150 miles, now a new leak.
Took the spider out and everything on top, cleaned the valley up good, the fired the truck. HPO lines are good, but have a drip off the back and bottom of the HPOP, when I reach under it from the back, its right below the large 2 inch circle.
What this might be? was thinking possible orings somewhere under there where it seats, but its been 6 years since I replaced all the orings, don't remember exact layouts.
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While doing a visual inspection I noticed that the AIH hot wire (captured nut wire) had broken off and was laying loose. I removed the wire from the relay and made a new 8 gauge wire, I connected it to the relay and was about to add it to the AIH when I got a healthy spark ( it touched the ground wire ) and yes the truck was not running and the key was out at the time.
This sounds to me like the relay has gone south, am I right??? I have a new OEM relay to install but I have a question. In what order are the wires and ceramic fitting go on the AIH post???
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I bought my 2000 7.3L Ex as salvage back in 2005. It had been through a driver side rollover and the seller had restored it. We lived in North Idaho then. But I remember I always had an issue with the check engine light being on. I don't remember what the codes said, but many mechanics read them and determined that nothing was wrong. Many surmised that someone had put a high performance chip in the computer and that was what was causing the check engine light to come on. All of them reset the computer and every time it would come back on. Should I replace the computer?
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I am having trouble finding an oil leak on my truck. the oil is coming out of the weep hole on the bottom of the bell housing where the cover over the torque converter is. There is no oil in the front of the valley under the fuel bowl/hpop. But there is a small puddle in the rear of the valley. I have changed all the turbo pedestal orings. Maybe the ebpv rod? But i cant see it leaking from there so im not sure where its coming from. Also have to do the front main as is leaks a little onto my lower radiator hose. How difficult are those?
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