Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Constant Airbag Light When The Truck Started And Shut Off
Oct 20, 2013
I bought a 01 F150 with the 5.4 motor in it not much over a year ago. The truck needed quite a few things but the price was right. I have been dreading fixing one issue I knew about when I bought the truck. I figured I would ask here before contemplating taking my 12 year old truck to ford.
I have done quite a bit of reading about the airbag codes and in some cases people suggested the passenger switch led can burn out causing the light to occur. Here's what I know,
The truck has not been in a accident. I bought it from the owners son who only knew where to put gas in the truck. The father took care of the truck and he assured me it was not accident related for what it's worth.
Upon start up there are no flashes of the airbag light. From the time the key is turned ign. on to the time I shut the truck off it is a solid light. Early this spring I soldered a new led in the passenger on/ off switch with no change. I wonder if the switch is bad but I did not see a proper way to test it.
A airbag light code reader would seem to possibility but I have not seen any auto-part stores that borrow that type and my obd2 scanner cannot pull those codes. Where to start with troubleshooting?
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My 2001 f150 is having a issue with the dome light. Sometimes when I park with the truck leaning to the right the dome light won't shut off when closing the door. What is the name of the switch that shuts the dome off? I assume it is located behind the kick panel.
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I have a 2000 f150 4x2 5.4 168k... Check engine came on,started shaking, weather was really cold. RPM would be a little high then low then back up. Especially when I turned on heater. Felt like truck would die but never does nor does it have issue starting.
So far, I have replaced two oxygen sensors inside engine,all coils, spark plugs, fuel filter, had injectors cleaned, intake cleaned. Truck runs better but, light came on a day later again. I can feel the tiniest of shaking going on and, cold mornings still make RPMS a little unstable. I was driving truck on highway at about 60 mph when a slight tug was felt and Truck check engine came on. I feel truck heavy, once it warms up completely, a little lighter.
Codes came up at auto zone as P1151
But I'm running out of options and frankly, money to fix this truck.
Checked the MAF and looked okay.
I'm with minimal skills.
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I recently changed the heater core on my 99 F-150 which meant i had to remove the dash. I got everything back together turned the key to start it and nothing it wouldn't start it wont even turn over. All the electronics come on like normal it just wont start. I have chased every wire every connection into madness. It has an aftermarket remote start someone said that would have bypassed the PATS but i dont know about that the theft light just started blinking.
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1997 F150 4x4 4.6. Truck was running fine ...suddenly shut down & now no spark, no fuel pump run, no start
1. Shot ether -no start
2. pulled plug - no spark
3. Checked crank sensor - reading .5 - .6
4. Checked fuel inertia switch - seems good
5. Switched fuel relays - no change
Thinking ECM/PCM. Also.. ?? will the "no spark" condition create a "no fuel pump run" condition ? or visa versa? I'm not positive about the reading from the crank sensor... it stays solid at .5... should it move up & down or remain constant ?
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Truck in question is 2002 F150 4.6 with 150K miles. Crew was on interstate tonight driving 65 MPH and truck shut off. They called me out to trouble shoot. Engine had oil (was a quart low) and will not start. Starter engages but will not turn motor over. Had truck towed back to my shop. I removed belt just to see if it may be a locked up pulley i know, long shot)... it was not.
Employed called a shade tree mechanic he knows and trusts. He said was likely a broken timing chain and that is a common problem in 4.6. Said locked engine is probably because broken chain is wrapped around shaft. When I turn key fan does move about 1/4 inch.
1) Does this sound like a possibility or even a plausible explanation? Just trying to verify the information.
2) If this is the case, would a repair be advisable, or is engine likely shot and i should just replace it?
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1997 F150... Truck has slowly started getting worse and worse performance. About 3 weeks ago the truck started rattling from the exhaust, Towing my trailer the other day, the truck had NO power, I thought it was the plugs, so I replaced them.
Now the rattle is worse (no lose heat shields). I am blowing the little tubes off the drivers side exhaust manifold, the ones that go to the DPFE sensor.
Did I mention, that the truck has no power, sluggish, now I am dumping hot exhaust fumes into the engine compartment. Still got the rattle underneath.
I think the cat is plugged up on the drivers side. (which probably explains all my symptoms)
Any other reason for the rattle literally coming from the drivers side cat and the little tubes being blown off?
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My emergency fuel shut off switch triggers when my truck sits. Never on the road. Why would it do this?
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Sometimes the truck is hard to get started and to keep running, Once it warms up it will run fine. The next time it is started it will start fine but when you are going down the road if I try to accelerate it will start backfiring and not pick up any speed. I am getting a lean code on both banks. I have changed the IAC, the throttle position sensor and mass air flow sensor. 2002 F150 with 6 cyl
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I am having problems with my 97 F150 6cyl. A couple of months ago, I noticed the truck after sitting for a few days without being started would not crank. After some trial and error, I found that turning the ignition switch on and off several times did the trick and the truck would crank right up. I was thinking this might be a fuel pump or fuel filter issue but, I'm not sure.
A couple of days ago I was going to drive the truck and did the ignition switch deal as usual and the truck cranked up but, there shortly after while just idling the motor died. I have tried and tried to crank it and it want start back. After thinking on it, I don't know if this is a fuel problem or not, or maybe even the ignition box.
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I have a 2001 F150 4.6L auto. This truck suddenly started running rough. Cleared all codes and re-scanned after starting truck. The codes are as follows; P0135, P0155, P0443, P0740, P0743, P0758, P1451, P1460, P1747, and P1760.
My question is; is it normal to have this many DTCs come up at once? Could my PCM be faulty causing this problem? Can you swap a pcm from the same year truck with the same options without reprogramming?
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I've got a 97 f150 4.6 that has randomly started missing over the last month. It has started to get more frequent and codes are showing a misfire on both cylinder 1 and 8. Both of these cylinders run off the same coil pack. I'm thinking its the coil? The plugs and wires, motocraft, have about 3k on them and the truck runs great otherwise. I just don't know how common a coil would cause this or if they would act intermittent like this.
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2001 F150, about 3 weeks ago I drove through standing water that was probably about 2 feet deep, as soon as I did that the truck started jumping real bad and almost died. I drove it around for a little while and it started to run better. After that it started to feel like it was misfiring badly. Between 40 -50 mph on the highway just giving it gas a little the jumping was pretty bad.
I decided to change out the plugs, thought maybe water got onto them and this was causing the issue, this was my first time changing the plugs in the truck and it was not nearly as bad as it could have been! I was able to do all of the plugs except number 7. The fuel injection line is right on top of that plug and I did not want to remove it!
After changing the 7 plugs the truck is running better now, I have not yet felt the jumping that was happening, my problem is that on the 4 plugs on the passenger side all 4 looked to be covered in oil. My question is does this mean my head gasket is blown and how long do I have before I am going to have to put alot of money into this truck to fix this issue?
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1999 Ford F-150 V8 5.4L... The other day I was attempting to fix my 4wd. I discovered that the vacuum tube by the 4wd solenoid had become disconnected. I reconnected it and in an effort to see if my fix was successful, I drove my truck up one of the canyons nearby. I got to an area full of loose rock and popped my truck into 4wd. As soon as I began to drive, the truck started idling very rough and died. I attempted to restart it for the next few minutes unsuccessfully. I got it started once and it continued to idle rough for a few seconds and died. I have not been able to start it since. It turns over but will not crank. It is not throwing any error codes. What I have checked so far:
Spark plugs are working.
When turning the ignition into the ON position, I am able to hear the fuel pump working.
I have not seen any cracks in the vacuum hose.
All the fuses are still okay.
What the culprit may be?
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I have a 2000 f150 with 5.4 Triton with 165k miles. I did invest in a code reader. It started missing and code P0302 came up along with P0171. Put new coil on #2 and truck ran fine for a few days. Then it started to run rough again. Shaking, Idle rough, no power and CEL came on again. This time code P0171. I changed out fuel filter to no avail. My next step was to start looking for vacuum leaks. As I'm searching, All I am finding is trucks with this problem also get P0174 code. My question is since I am only getting lean on one bank does that pretty much eliminate things like MAF or the famous elbow vacuum leak and make something that only affects one bank like an O2 sensor on CAT more likely?
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Yesterday I replaced the bulbs in my heater controls, today I have the Airbag light on, flashing 2/7. And when I turn off the passenger airbag, the "OFF" light does not come on. I've heard if the "OFF" light goes out, you replace the switch, would that possibly cause this code?
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My truck started to idle very rough. I pulled the codes and I got po308 and po316. First I changed plug #8, the electrode was nearly gone. I have never seen a plug in worse shape. Replaced that plug and fired it up, it still idled rough and threw the same codes. Next I moved the #8 coil pack to the #1 location and vice-versa, still the rough idle and same codes. Then I moved the #8 injector to the #1 location same results. Finally I tested compression in the #8 cylinder and it read 32psi ( not good) everything else read 150 to 160 psi. Squirted some oil into #8 and no difference in compression.The truck is a 2002 with 184,000 miles, it burns a quart of oil every couple weeks but still is in perfect shape. Should I bite the bullet and invest in a remanufactured engine for 2500.00? I put one in my 97 f 150 a few years ago with no problems.
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Dashboard light is flashing. Sometimes it flashes sometimes it doesn't:no real pattern. It just started with no accident or jarring.
1998 F150 5.5 V....
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1997 F150 - Getting an airbag code 33. PAD light is still functional. Some googling suggests a sensor in the passenger seat belt but I think mine is too old for that.
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today all of the sudden my ford f150 5.4 liters speedometer started to not work and the airbag light came on while it was having trouble shifting! the windshield wipers don't work as well! checked all fuses! after messing around with smacking things under the hood it started to shift right but has a glitch in the electrical and it sounds like it's trying to start( this is while it's running) it's all glitchy...
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I put a double DIN unit in my 98 F150 and now the airbag light is no. N o flashing either. Turn the key on, nothing, start the engine, Airbag light. I've got the dash apart but I'm not seeing anything that I may have disconnected.
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