Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Codes P1518 / P0316 / P0303 And P0136?
Apr 3, 2014
I have a 2003 F150 V6 4.2L, 171,000 miles on it. I have four codes on it.
#p1518
#p0316
#p0303
#p0136
I had a p1518 in november of 2012, had it repaired and its back. In the time that I had it repaired and it came back on (maybe a month and a half ago) I only drove the truck maybe 3000 miles, if that. Just curious if this particular part should have some kind of warranty either by the MFG or dealer since the dealer repaired it. Have a limited budget, trying to find out what I can fix on my own in a timely manner.
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I love my Ranger. I'm quite impressed with the power and durability. I'm ticked at Ford for stopping production.
I have searched my problem and could not quite narrow it down. I have also tried several remedies with no improvement. I need to narrow it down to a specific item.
2004 Ranger, 4.0 liter, 4x4, 131,000 miles, runs great above idle.
Problem: rough idle, idles at about 750 rpm's. If i raise the rpm's to 850 and up, smooth as silk.
The truck did this a few years back. Not quite as rough and it went away by itself.
Engine light came on this time with P0303 & P0316 codes. I have replaced: plugs, wires, coil pack. I know that the #3 plug is sparking quite well. the #3 injector is getting signal to spray not sure if it is. I have 4 O2 sensors and I believe I tested them correctly (passed). The passenger side upstream or pre cat sensor has not been tested yet. Had to rent a tool and will do that in morning. I slid a piece of aluminum roof flashing between the crank position sensor and the crank pulley. Not a noticeable difference. While at idle (750 rpm's) I pulled each (#3,2,1,) (one at a time) injector wire plugs off the injectors. No noticeable difference. I pulled the vacuum line off the egg and operated it with a vacuum tool. Seems to be working fine. Sprayed carb cleaner around on vac lines. No engine surge
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2003 F150 v6 2wd 170k ... For a year I've only had codes P0171 and P0174 (lean bank 1 and 2). I was told it wouldn't hurt anything... I think now I should have taken care of it.
Anyway 3 weeks ago my truck started running a little rough. It was sputtering and had trouble getting up to speed, sometimes also the air switches from vent to defrost until switch gears and rpms go down. It gradually got a lot worse over 10 days while part was otw. A week ago i changed MAF and cleaned the black thing it's inside of. It started running better but still not good. I pulled my small trailer 2 days ago and it got worse after dropping the trailer.
Today checked codes at AZ and lean codes are gone and have p0304 (#4 misfire) and p0316 (crank sensor problem). Is this related.? Also Right before all the trouble I changed battery and alternator. Also i read online that MAF needed 2 weeks to relearn the way I drive to get correct gas/air ratio? Is that correct?
Also I read so many different things I needed to do during installation... Some say I need to turn key to the on position after unplugging old MAF then plug new one in... turn key to on position 10 times, Rev up engine, drive it rough for the first 2 minutes... etc. Is there a correct way to do it or is it vehicle specific?
Should I start by changing spark plugs and coils? The guy i bought it from and trust said he changed spark plugs right before I bought it. Will it ruin truck if I drive it? I've read so much but everyone says so much different things on the same topic. I'd what to start with or if this is related.
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I'm working on a 2003 Gmc yukon xl, which is the same as the suburban. Check engine light is on and the codes P0220 (TPS sensor) and P1518 (TAC throttle actuator control) are on. I've cleared both codes drove the vehicle all day, but when I shut it off and start it back up the two codes are back on and a message on the dash says reduced power, and there is no throttle. However if I clear the codes everything goes back to normal until I shut the thing off again and the 2 codes pop on and it says reduced power... Now I've cleaned the tps sensor electrical connector thinking this was the problem, but no luck.
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My 2003 ford ranger 3.0 v6 is having a misfire on start up and it is located in the forth cylinder. Where to start to get rid of this problem. i have already changed all my plugs wires and even the coil pack cleaned out the maf and looked for possible leaks. the car shakes really bad at lights and the check engine light starts to flash. Need diagram of where all the cylinder numbers are at and maybe the firing order?
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I have the P1518 code for Intake Manifold Runner Control. I can not seem to find if have the actuator itself only the electronic control which, I take connects to the actuator. Is the electronic portion the only thing that needs to be changed and clean the actuator butterfly with the manifold off, or does the actuator need to be found and replaced?
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2002 F-150 4x4 super crew w/5.4..So I've got the P0136 code, horrible fuel mileage (around 7 mpg just driving to work without hitting very many lights) and the check engine light comes on intermittently, and I get that code. I have borrowed my friends scanner ("Determionator Scan System") and I can see the live data from the 02 sensors. Today I drove around for a while and watched the scanner and the H02 data, and the downstream sensor on bank 1 shows at most, .09 volts, and it also says its detecting a lean mixture. The code P0136 is for this sensor in particular, and I have heard that an 02 sensor should be around 1 volt. The downstream sensor on the drivers side showed around .75 volts at max.
I believe that it is working correctly, or close to it, and I do not get a code for that sensor. So my question is, is the downstream sensor on the passenger side (bank 1) causing the P0136 code and the poor fuel mileage? also, could an exhaust leak cause the sensor to throw a code and not be bad at all? I do have some very minor exhaust leaks, on both sides of the truck..I'm leaning towards replacing that one 02 sensor. The wires and plug connection to that sensor look fine, plus I would think that if there was a bad wire/connection it would not register any voltage at all.. I have to add, the truck runs fine overall after I replaced the intake manifolds last week. It does still idle high, around 1,000 rpm, after coasting to a stop, then after a few seconds goes back down to a normal idle of around 650 rpm. but idles normal upon starting or in park.
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I recently replaced both the downstream O2 Sensors in my 2000 4.2L F150 because I was getting a P0136 (Bank1 Sensor 2) code that I couldn't get rid of by cleaning the connector or fixing wires. 110K miles. Calif truck. No other codes and has always passed smog test easily.
When I pulled the sensors, the Driver's side unit was extremely sooty, as compared to the passenger side (bank 1). The code failure was on bank 1.
Is this normal or is there some rich condition on the driver's side bank that I need to check into ? Originals were Bosch, replaced w/ Motorcraft, if that makes any diff. One on left is driver's side unit.
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I am having the above codes come up P0316 and PO305. The car is running rough...just started tonight. The check engine light started flashing but it's on continuously. Of course when I had the codes read at a Firestone they gave absolutely no support as to what it could be.
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I drive a Supercrew F150 5.4L XLT 02 since 9 years, I put a Fuelflex module since 8 years, since some months I Misfire on cylinder #3 (P0303) but only during towing with Ethanol (over 2000/2500 rpm), when I drive on gas all is fine, I changed Flexfuel modul, plugs, coils, header gasket, without any positive results, it's very curious to have the problem only with ethanol (E85), I can drive very hard and at high speed with just the truck, but with a trailer as soon as I ask more power i lose one cylinder, with misfire...but like I said only on ethanol? I know engine needs more ethanol than gas, so I go check fuel pressure and maybe try to change fuel injector...
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My 04 F-150 has recently been blowing these two codes. I've replaced the coil pack already and it is still making the check engine line come off. Just put some injector cleaner in the tank last night, so that might take a while to work through. What I should be looking for?
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A couple of weeks ago I got a check engine light. Pulling the codes I saw that it was a p0304 and sometimes a p0316. The first time this happened I check the spark plug cables and one was loose (cycylinder 4). Then last week my fuel pump died. since then I have gotten the two codes on a somewhat continous basis. I replaced the plugs (needed to anyway) and the problem did not go away.
The odd thing is that the check engine light does not come on at idle. IT only comes on after the motor is at a higher rev. The replaced plugs looked pretty normal, but the cylinder 4 plug had some carbon deposits. I am currently running injector cleaner in the gas. I may go ahead and replace the plug wires since the current ones are high mileage and it is not an expensive fix.
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05 2 wheel drive f150xl 4.2 l 135,000 miles. Smoking white out of exhaust. More at start up but doesn't go away. Turns a little blue. When parked at idle if I bring up the RPM's quick I will get a little puff of black in the white smoke. I can't smell or taste(when I touch my fingers to mouth) any anti freeze in the exhaust smoke but I live in Myrtle Beach and I have little if any anti freeze in the coolant. I flushed the motor, changed oil and filter and added a can of seafoam. I took the throttle body off and cleaned it. I also replaced the air filter because I went down a dirt road and hit a deep water hole. Dirt and mud got into the air filter and by passed it also. This was the reason for the engine flush also. I can't recall any smoke before this. Maybe a puff on start up from moisture not sure. Im going to buy a coil pack and plugs and start from there. I have never had this many codes.
P0174 Bank system 2 to lean P0300 random multipl Lean mil. Missfire detected P0305 random multiple Missfire detected cylinder 5 misfire P0306 cylinder 6 Missfire P0316 Missfire detected on start up first 1000 revolution
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I have a small problem that has been going on for about the last 6 months. It only appears once in a while, and only when I have parked facing uphill for longer than a day or so. Upon first start (cold) after sitting pointed uphill for a day or two, it starts real rough and sputters a bit. Then when I check codes, I always have a pending P0316 (misfire within the first 1000 revolutions) along with a P0306 or P0301. No dash lights or anything.
Since those two cylinders are at the front of the motor, could it be that the fuel is leaking back down the rail and leaving those two injectors dry? It isn't always both cylinders, sometimes one or the other. If this is the sign of something bigger on the horizon, I would like to have a heads up.
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So on Christmas day I turned on my truck and all was well. I had family over and we were going up to my range to do some Christmas day target shooting. I let it warm up for about 20 minutes we then loaded up and headed out.
When I locked the hubs I soon found out my 4WD was not working? Due to the cold? It worked fine last time out and now not at all. I decided to forge ahead in 2WD, Sure enough we got stuck in deep snow. I had to gun the engine off and on to get out and as soon as I broke free (CHECK ENGINE) appeared for the first time ever. Worst Christmas ever!
The truck is running fine, full power and no irregular noise from the engine. So I ran the test and P0303, P0307 misfires on cylinder 3 and 7 appeared. This whole post is about me doing a full tune up this spring the truck is parked since Christmas and will stay parked until I do a full tune up.
New Plugs.
New Wires.
New Coils.
New oil filter and oil. Changed last year with less than 2000 miles but changing anyways.
Flush radiator and add new radiator fluid.
Clean air filter (Aftermarket, It is washable).
Is there anything I'm missing? Also, any tips on figuring out the 4WD issue?
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My son just left. We scanned his truck and got these codes.
P0172 Bank 1 rich P0300 random misfires P0303 cylinder 3 misfires.
I used the Torque APP Pro to check these codes. I went to live readings in the Torque APP and saw some readings for Long term and Short term bank 1 Readings.
They are all "greek" to me, and I don't recall what they were, but could get those readings tomorrow.
When I have done searches combining these codes together, I see changing spark plugs. P0172 alone gets me a different train of thought. Mainly CAT issues.
Also, his cranking to start is quite long. (A lot longer than my 6.0L would ever think of cranking) At least nearly 30 seconds of cranking. We are leaning toward first just changing #3 plug.
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I've been having issues with my beloved 2003 with a little over 130k with warning lights going on and off. I went to O'Reilly's they gave me the codes P3130 and P0303. One of codes states "misfiring on all cylinders," they didn't have a description for the other one.
Dealership won't tell me anything about what the codes mean. The warning lights are an exclamation point inside a triangle, check engine, and what looks like a thermometer in red.
Just got the oil changed a little over a week ago, dealership said they didn't notice any problems. Warning lights came back on last Thursday and just disappeared about an hour ago.
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The car doesn't seem to run that rough.
Replaced coil pack and spark plug wires with parts from O'reilly auto
16684 - Random/multiple cylinder misfire detected
P0300 - 35 -10 - Intermittent
16686 - Cylinder 2
P0302 - 35 - 10 - misfire detected - intermittent
16687 - Cylinder 3
P0303 - 35 - 10 - misfire detected - intermittent
I have searched and browsed multiple websites and threads to no avail. They all seem to be dead ends.
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i have a 01 passat with a v6 in it on 4 motion and im having an issue with soem mis-firing
i pulled the codes. P0300 P0301 P0302 and P0303 which are all saying that there are missfires in cylander 1,2 and 3 and random miss fires.
im also getting a P0340 which is cam sensor A or the right hand bank. problem is i just replaced the cam sensor and when the motor got warm, the code came back. I was told by the previous owner that the car needed a Coolant Temp Sensor....can this be the cause of my mis-fire issue? hear me out.... it only happens when the car is warm so im thinking that the car is warm but the ecu thinks its cold cause its not getting a good signal from the CTS. thus its either advancing the timing as if the motor is cold and cuasing a miss fire or something along those lines. any thoughts?
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My 2004 Cadillac CTS 3.6L started running rough, check engine light flashed on and off. Codes P0300 and P0303. The car has about 119000 miles. Could this just be the plugs? The car has been running fine up to today.
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1997 f 150 4x4 5.4 right now has a 145k miles.
About a year and half ago (120kmiles) the check engine light came on, checked the codes; 1 left bank to lean. 2 right bank to lean. Cleared the codes drove for about 3 weeks and the light came back on same codes, cleared the codes, drove for about 3 weeks and the light came back on, this continued with shorter times between the light coming on. Did this until sept 2012 took it in and Ford replaced the MAF, all good until today Jan.8, 2014. The light came on today I checked the codes 1 left bank to lean. 2 right bank to lean, cleared the codes today, the light staying off for right now. My best guess is that the MAF is again bad, my question is; how long does a MAF last, why would it fail in just over a year? What can I do to make the the MAF last longer.
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