Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Code P1260 Indicating Attempted Theft Which Disabled The Truck
May 1, 2013
I have a 1999 F150 with a 5.4L. I recently replaced the PCM with a new unit from autocomputerexchange.net that was programed for my truck. I installed the PCM but the truck did not start. The theft light is also flashing rapidly during cranking. I ran a code scanner a recieved the code P1260 indicating an attempted theft which disabled the truck. I read that if you have two keys you can sync the keys with the new computer but unfortunately one of the keys stopped working a couple years ago (not sure why, stopped for gas and it never started back up). Since i do not have two working keys do i have to tow the truck to a dealer and let them reprogram the keys and reset the PATS or can i have a locksmith recode the keys and sync the keys myself.
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Last night someone broke into my 2000 Ford Ranger (3.0L, automatic, 2wd, extended cab) and tried to steal it from my driveway. For some reason they didn't complete the theft. Looks like they forced open the rear sliding window to gain entry. The steering column is damaged where you insert the key. The rotating part where you insert the key that has a slit is laying on the floorboard, along with a plastic ring that has stranded wire around it. (I think this is part of the anti-theft system that senses the smart key).
Anyway, I can insert the key and turn the ignition but nothing happens, the engine doesn't crank. The "theft" lite on the dash is flashing more quickly than normal. The thief didn't damage anything else but did take the owners manual from the glovebox. This is just an everyday truck that is over 10 years old, nothing special about it, so I guess it was an attempted joyriding incident. Police said they had another vehicle in the area stolen and later found abandoned. I need this truck to drive to work, what do I need to do to be able to start it? There's not a lot of money in our budget for bigtime repairs right now.
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My Ex died on me last night while driving at 70mph, and wouldn't start again, it was turning over fast but not firing and I noticed the theft light flashing fast. After about half an hour it then allowed the car to start, I drove for about 5 minutes then it died again, and I had to call a recovery truck to get home.
It showed a code of P1260 Theft detected. The Ex is now running and starting ok, but I want to find or fix the problem so I'm not left stranded again (and I had my Wife and kids with me too)
I only have one key at the moment, and being in the UK, none of the dealers here will touch the Ex, so I'm thinking of bypassing/deleting PATS if possible?
I've now read tons of stuff on the internet, and some say that programmers like SCT can delete PATS or custom tune builders can delete it too - I was going to get a custom tune at some point anyway, so if it is possible, I'd like to get one asap and delete PATS at the same time?
Is there anything I should be checking in the meantime? Like replace a relay, check wires? I did the same when I first bought the Ex about 8 months ago, but at the time I thought it was the fuel pump, so did the hutch tank mod and checked the whole fuel system etc, and it hasn't done it since so I thought it was fixed....
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I had recently thrown a code for a 'misfire detection monitor disabled' , never did address the issue. But just the other day the service engine light went off, the light had been on all this time and now it's off. My question is, how do I know if the light is just burned out. Is there something safe I could do to make the light come back on just to see if the light is actually still works.
2000 f 150 4.2 v6 232,000 miles ....
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I did the power door fix, wrapping the door actuator motor 'resistor' in foil, and all was good. This morning I started the truck to move it, all fine, then pulled the door panel off to readjust the window guide in the door as windows were binding. After adjustment I went to turn on the ignition to test the window and the Theft light is on, and the truck won't start! It's a1999 F150, 5.4L.
1. The power comes on when I turn the key to ON, then when I turn the key to start the truck I hear nothing, no clicking, and the power goes off.
2. After leaving the key in the On position for 45 seconds, the Theft light blinks rapidly, the odometer is all dashes, the RPM and Speedometer gauges swing to max, then back to 0.
3. When turning the key to start the truck, there's a 1 click sound (solenoid?), then all power goes off on the instrument panel, no cranking.
What might have gone wrong here? Could the wrapping of the 'resistor' in foil in the door actuator have caused an electrical short? [URL] .....
Below happened previously but not any more...
4. When I turn the power back on to ON and push the buttons for the windows, the power seems to cycle On / Off in 2 second intervals, as the window goes down a bit, then stops, then goes down a bit, stops etc. and the lights on the instrument panel dim / go on / dim in the same cycle.
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1999 f150 4.2l v6.. The anti theft system has kicked in and my truck won't turn over, the stereo won't turn on, the lights don't work. How can I fix this?
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I have a 2000 f150 with 200k miles. I have no spark and no gas at the fuel rail Schrader valve. I have replaced the shaft pos sensor, no start. I have checked the fuses and the relays. I have crawled under truck and listen for the fuel pump to turn on while someone turned the key to on and heard nothing. I have 2 keys and while turning the key to on and start, the THEFT lite flashes. I have checked the impact sensor on the passing sick panel, it hasn't been tripped.
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I recently changed the heater core on my 99 F-150 which meant i had to remove the dash. I got everything back together turned the key to start it and nothing it wouldn't start it wont even turn over. All the electronics come on like normal it just wont start. I have chased every wire every connection into madness. It has an aftermarket remote start someone said that would have bypassed the PATS but i dont know about that the theft light just started blinking.
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My 2001 f150 is not starting up. The anti theft light flashes and then eventually slows down and flashes one time, pauses and then flashes two more times. The odometer still shows my mileage as I know some people with this issue just get dashes. I know there are passive anti theft codes that can indicate what is wrong but cant find a chart with any info for all the codes. I'm going to assume my pats transceiver module is shot. Or maybe the key simply needs to be reprogrammed? I checked fuses, relays, etc and didn't see any that were blown. What could be causing it? Or maybe there's a relay I forgot to check out.
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I just bought a 00 f150 4x4 with a 5.4 auto...it wouldn't start but not because something was wrong. it kept making a clicking sound and the theft light was one blinking...took my bronco to work and when I came home it started right up...I was thinking one of the keys didn't have the chip in it but it started with both keys....it doesn't have a key fob or keyless entry. I tried locking my drivers door with the key and unlock it...
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I have an intermittent security system issue. I sometimes get a dotted line in odometer and rapidly flashing theft light.
Crank no start. After a time, the theft light flashes a code of 1 then 4. Research gives me the result that PCM did not power up.
Have pulled gauges. Fixed known cold solder joint issue. Checked all connectors and reinstalled. Truck starts fine about 7/10 tries.
I have replaced battery terminals. Removed cleaned and replaced all firewall grounds. Checked harness connection blocks and PCM connector. Made sure all under hood fuses and relays working.
Currently sitting in a parking lot waiting for it to decide to start again. Only one chipped key. Where to look next? 1999 F150 xlt 6 cylinder.
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I disconnected the battery cable and when I reconnected it the red 'theft' light began rapidly blinking on the dash and ignition/starting was disabled. followed owners manual advice using the key to unlocking drivers door (to re-set anti-theft device) but this did not work. Called two Ford dealers and both say have to tow car in for this to be fixed. Problem is, car is on an island with no towing service available. I'm thinking there must be a way around this. I have two original keys with the key fobs and neither works to fix it by unlocking the door.
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My 2012 F150 has developed an odd issue.... It doesn't seem to want to always take off in first gear. I've had it happen several times where the truck would take off in a high gear but yesterday was the worst yet....I was towing my boat and the truck attempted to take off in 5th gear....I threw it in neutral and back in drive and it was fine, what's causing it.
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I have the LED mod and several weeks ago, my LED stopped indicating and the truck would not start in cold weather unless I jumped the terminal on the relay. I replaced the relay and while I was tightening one of the small lugs, the one towards the nose of the truck, I felt it break.
The truck acted just like it had been for the weeks prior, if I didn't jump the relay, it wouldn't cold start, so I assumed, because I had broken that small lug, it wasn't getting the signal to turn them on.
So what now? obviously the GP's themselves are working, as the truck starts when I jump them. But for some reason no signal is getting to the relay. What do I need to check to see what is going on between the PCM and the relay?
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I was involved in a light accident over the weekend. I was hit in the rear by a Prius which didn't do body damage except for the 7 blade harness for my trailer towing. But, now the truck has a random misfire code. You can feel the truck jerk when you go up any grade. We changed the fuel filter and dumped in some cleaner already. One guy says its fuel and one thinks its coils. It is a 2003 F150 extended cab 5.4 with a nearly new motor. The truck has about 175xxx on it and I have had it for about 40xxx. I have not changed coils. We did check the inertia switch on the passenger side and it was not tripped.
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Truck had a rich on bank 2 code about a month ago, I cleared it and the service engine light stayed off for quite some time.
Last friday on the way home from work the truck started shaking badly right from idle, and at one point on the freeway the service engine started flashing. I couldn't pull over as I was on a bridge but once I dropped my speed the light stayed on but the flashing stopped.
I went to plug the truck in today and first shot it didn't communicate with the code reader at all, I talked to someone who told me that the cigerette lighter fuse is also the OBD port fuse, I pulled a fuse from somewhere else and plugged the reader in again. This time it started communicating with the truck but didn't display any codes while all the while the truck is miss firing and the service engine light is lit up on the dash.
One other weird thing: The fuse had an LED indicator to show that it is blown, when I push the cig lighter in the led gets a hell of a lot brighter, if there is always power drawn through the circuit shouldn't the LED be constantly bright all the time? I'm wondering if there is a short somewhere. Where to look next??
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I am having problems with a 2003 Ford F 150 with a 4.2 L V6. The problem is that it is giving me code errors that would indicate bad O2 sensors. I replaced both the upper and lower O2 sensors, and still I get the same codes. I was told by the mechanic with the computer reader that this usually means a bad vacuum seal. He suggested looking for bad hoses, but did not offer much more than that. How to proceed?
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I have a 1999 F-150 with the 4.2L engine. I recently did a motor swap as the original motor was bad. I bought this truck as a project truck and have enjoyed working on it.
When I did the engine swap back in May of this year, it took a while to work out all the little bugs and quirps. However, after a while of running the truck it threw a few codes. I replaced a lot of the emission components and no more codes for several months until last month the truck started throwing the infamous P0174 "too lean bank two"... I have replaced the pcv valve and all the hoses to include the little rubber boot under the front of the intake, all 4 O2 sensors, MAF sensor, EGR, DPFE, IAC valve, new wires and plugs to include coil pack, fuel pressure regulator, and all the vacuum lines that are under the hood.
The truck runs fine, has power, but about every couple weeks or so it throws this P0174 code. I know there are alot of threads on here about this problem and I have read many of them. It only throws the P0174 and not the P0171. I am wondering if there could be a problem specific to "bank 2" that I am over looking.
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I have a 2001 F150 XLT Supercab,4.2lt, automatic, 2WD.
I was able to start it about a month or so ago but it was really hard to start. I had to use starting fluid to get it started, and it was still tough to get it to start, but once started and warmed up it ran fine.
Now I tried to start it again and it kicks over and wont start. I tried the same with the starting fluid and it almost starts and dies. I think I used a little too much starting fluid because after a while of trying and spraying starting fluid, I got a hard backfire that sounded like a shotgun that was strong enough to pop off the MAF Sensor and throw it about 10 feet. I nearly crapped my pants! It looks clean and undamaged but I hope I didn't damage the MAF Sensor when if hit the ground.
The truck sounds like its starving for fuel, so I'm not sure if the fuel pump relay is going or has gone bad, or if its the fuel pump. How to check these items without making it a huge project to diagnose?
Once I can get it to start easily, I have a couple of questions about the trouble code that keeps coming back P0174. That was the original problem with it before the starting problem.The diagnostic says that it is lean in bank 2 but a mechanic friend of mine said something about a vacuum leak.
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I have a 1997 Ford F-150 with the 4.6L auto trans 189,000 miles
Ok.. there was no problems until the other day when I unplugged the positive side of the battery to replace it's clamp. I Put the new one on and drove to the store but when I came to a stop, the rpm's dropped to 0 and the truck died. I restarted it and every time I would come to a stop it would die unless I give it a little gas also if I start the truck and leave it in park it idles fine until I give it some gas then let off.. the idle drops and dies! If I give it a little steady gas the idle will return to normal.
The check engine light works fine but never once lit up because of this problem! I used a code scanner and if the truck was off and the key forward, it would have no codes. With it running it had the code P0443. I found and replaced a blown fuse and still have the same problem but it reads no codes at anytime. I checked all the vacuum hoses and there seems to be no leaks and the mass airflow sensor looks clean. I have allot of miles but it has been taken care of well and has had a ton of parts replaced over the last few years.
I am wondering why this happened out of the blue and If there is something I am missing that I should be looking at. I don't want to replace the purge control valve if thats not the problem.
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I have a 2000 f150 with 5.4 Triton with 165k miles. I did invest in a code reader. It started missing and code P0302 came up along with P0171. Put new coil on #2 and truck ran fine for a few days. Then it started to run rough again. Shaking, Idle rough, no power and CEL came on again. This time code P0171. I changed out fuel filter to no avail. My next step was to start looking for vacuum leaks. As I'm searching, All I am finding is trucks with this problem also get P0174 code. My question is since I am only getting lean on one bank does that pretty much eliminate things like MAF or the famous elbow vacuum leak and make something that only affects one bank like an O2 sensor on CAT more likely?
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