Vehicle: 01 F150 5.4 4wd
issue: snapping sound like crushing tin can at take off and now at a fast stop.
Repairs already done:
upper control arms
lower ball joints
Sway bar link and bushing
4wd cv axle shaft assembly (both side )
Slip yoke grease.
Tie rod ends replace inner and outer
I put the truck an a lift and put it on drive and there is no sound.
Sometimes it happens at slow speeds too but it's so random that I know it will never do it at the dealer. I can't say "When I take off fast or stop hard it makes a weird sound" it's a lease and they will probably blame me for whatever is wrong. Sometimes the tranny doesn't feel right either. I had a Jeep Grand Cherokee LTD that made a similar sound and it was bushings but this car has only 4,000 miles on it. What should I do?
View 2 RepliesI bought a 2010 f150 from the company I work for.... It had a blown front diff, when I bought it, I just put a complete front diff assembly and front drive shaft on it. Thought I was golden, but when I accelerate fast there is a slipping/ snapping noise which sounds like it's coming from transfer case area... Accelerate slow and steady up to highway speeds it doesn't happen. This problem only happens in four wheel drive.... what this could be!???
View 4 RepliesSrange noises of my 1994 AWD. When driving, if I take off fast, it makes a lot of pop noise, but if I take off slowly, then It's Ok. Or when I make a quick acceleration after slowing down then it make noise, but if I take it fairly slow then it's OK. The frequency is getting worse. My front axles are in good condition (30K miles on a rebuilt pair). I have unplugged the AWD controller box, it didn't do any difference. All gear shipped OK. So what is that noise in that condition? My 94 AWD is about 110k miles, good shocks.
View 14 RepliesI have a 2003 B5.5 1.8T. Recently i started hearing a weird noice in the back of my car like something is loose or rolling around. Had the brakes checked and everything is fine. You only hear it when you stop real sudden or take off real sudden. You can hear it on the inside too but its much louder with the window down.
View 3 RepliesI am having a strange issue with the transmission in my 02 F150 with the 5.4, but it only happens when it`s cold outside and the truck is warm, typically after shutting off the truck and starting it back up (like if I stop at the store for something).
Basically, it clunks around at low throttle, especially around 50-55 MPH. Sometimes, it will act strange as I roll to a start, but typically it`s fine up until there. If I hit the gas it shifts just fine, but it acts up at constant speed/throttle.
I am hoping that its a sensor or something that's confused vs. needing a rebuild or new torque converter.
The other day while at a stop sign in my e99 F450, I went to take off and stalled. I am not sure if the stall was my fault or not; however, it would not start. I turned the key on and the wait to start light did not come on.
The first thing I checked was the mini 30 amp fuse under the dash that controls the GRP and the fuel bowl heater. The fuse was good, and my heater has been unplugged for a while anyway. Recently my SES light came on with codes that said the glow plugs had low voltage for both banks. I have cleaned the wires a couple times and the light goes out but then comes back on after a minute or so.
I figured that maybe if it was a bad wire it finally went bad so I got jumper cables and started to try and jump wires. I moved them around and found that when I hooked one side to the positive battery terminal and the other to the small key hot wire on the glow plug relay, the light would come on and it would start. I left the cables hooked up and drove the couple miles back home.
After messing with it I figured I could run a new wire. I got a fuse tap, and went from the 30 amp mini fuse that controls this system anyway, and ran it up to the post on the GPR for my new keyed hot wire. The WTS light would cycle and it would crank, but no start. After some more messing around I decided to put both the original wire back onto the post with the new wire that I had just put on; after doing this it started right up. I took it for a test drive and a couple times the engine would act like it stalled, only for a split second. When looking down at the dash immediately after the tach would be at normal RPM and the WTS light would be on, as if I shut the key off and tried to start it again.
I suspect it is the original key hot wire that goes to the GPR. It appears that this wire also has a purpose, other then serving as only a keyed hot wire for the GPR. It has about 6 inches off of the GPR, then it goes into the harness. Where that wire goes? I will just run a new wire instead of having to dig through that harness... that doesn't look like something I would wish upon my worst enemy.
i have a 1997 150 4.6l with 166xxx miles. when ever you go to take off there will be no power and then all off the sudden it will shoot up too 4000rpm and then you back off it will be fine. Until you stop and go again. Also when ever you come up to a stop it drops down to 500rpm. What might be going on?
View 14 RepliesI am having a hard time locating a mechanical knock coming from my truck. This is not an engine knock but rather a clunking noise when I come to a slightly abrupt stop and sometimes when I take off or am steering. I have recently replaced my upper and lower ball joints and all the u-joints as well. My truck has a 6" Fabtech Coil over lift and a 3" body lift. The truck is also rather squeaky when going over speed bumps.
View 8 RepliesSo I have an issue with my 03 f150, Basically It clunks in various scenarios such as Accelerating also occurs take off and general breaking/slowing down but not really when stopping. December when it was cold and I was decelerating (not on the break just coasting) it feels like i was driving on the shoulder.
It does it much more in cold weather. Just had the truck out getting a little rough with it for 5 or so hours today and 0 issues with it.
I was thinking it was a slip yoke issue that I hear allot of trucks have the issue but I was at the dealership today and both guys and a mechanic sitting there were like "never had that issue on an 03 f150, might be your back end." They also stated the clunking would always occur and be more prominent when breaking which its not.
I am certain its not the transmission its not occurring with any shift point. Kind of hard to do it if its hard to reproduce in the heat.
I have a 2001 5.4 4x4 supercrew with 300,000 miles.. This truck is my baby. Recently when I start it up and after putting it in gear and begin taking off my engine is loud as if I am revving the engine without any indication in the rpms. I want to say it starts out on the trip a tad sluggish. Is there anything I can do to eliminate?
View 1 RepliesLast August I bought a 2002 Ford F 150 extended cab 4x4 only until the weather got really cold did I start noticing this kind of like almost vibration or like the rear end is slipping but it doesn't happen all the time it only happens when I take off but once I get driving then it goes away...
View 4 RepliesMy husband bought a 1997 Ford F150 and the seller said he changed the brake lines, but the back brakes have dragged on takeoff since he bought it. Just put new shoes on it and it's still doing the same thing, but now the drums are getting hot. Is it possible that the seller got the brake line backwards and that might make the back brakes drag?
View 2 RepliesSo for the past few months I have been hearing a knock sound when taking off from a stop. It does it every time, and its loud enough to hear distinctly. It sounds like it is coming from underneath the cab, maybe the trans or rear engine area. I thought maybe a mount. It only does it when taking off from a stop it does not do it while driving. Where to start. I hope it isn't serious, at this point it is more annoying than anything else.
View 8 RepliesOk so I have a 2001 f150 4.6l 4x4 I purchase it recently and have been having some issues it has a huge power loss on take off and even while driving I have changed plugs coils tested almost every sensor and am at a loss at this point. No check engine light on or codes...
View 8 RepliesI have a M5OD that I replaced the clutch in in my '99 150 4wd in December . Manual Tranny. Now when taking off in 1st gear the transmission seems to be sliding or shifting backwards, but only in first gear. Got under my truck and looked, can't find any identifying marks to where it might be moving or what is causing this. All frame mounts are tight and the bell housing is flush with the motor. Yes, i did do the clutch change myself in shop class.
View 1 RepliesI've got a 2003 F150 4x4 supercrew that's got a 9.75" rear end with 3.73 gears. I just replaced clutch packs and spider gear set 2 weeks ago. The last day or two I have noticed that when I make sharp turns that it get a whining like spinning noise. It sounds to me like the spider gears are spinning. It only does it when making sharp turns. There is no noise going down the highway or normal driver. I have noticed at times I get a little shutter when I go to take off or back up. Kinda feels like a brake is hanging. I put friction modifier in when I did the clutch packs and everything. Maybe not enough?
View 5 RepliesI have a 98 expedition with the 4.6l 4x4 and it has 158,000 on the dash had a new engine installed at 100,000 it started running rough and sluggish last week so I changed out the spark plugs and while changing the plug I notice oil on the threads of the two rear passenger side plugs. After the new plugs it was smoking pretty bad blueish white smoke. I figured it was the oil from around the threads that had leaked into the cyl.
The smoked cleared after 2 days and ran great for a week. Now its doing the same thing again real rough idle and and its extremely sluggish. I can put the pedal to the floor and she barely wants to move almost like the tranny is going out but the rough idle leads me to believe its and engine problem. I have the check engine light on but can't get any codes. I also tried checking for vacuum leaks by spraying either round the intake and vacuum lines and didn't notice any change in rpms so I'm guess the vacuum is fine.
I have a 97 F150XL 4x4 a few days ago i was driving and i started to lose power i had to take it out of overdrive just to maintain 60mph by the end of the day it took a good 45 seconds to a full minute to get up to 10 mph. I have been told it is the catalytic converter, anything that would cause this it has a lope when stopped at a light but is fine when in park it acts like its flooding when I take off from a stop but the faster I go after taking off the flooding feel goes away and just seems like a lack of power. That morning i put on a EGR vacuum solenoid and an o2 sensor...
View 14 RepliesI bought a 1998 F250 5.4 XLT, 4x4, automatic gear shifting, electric 4x4 HI/LO switch. I'm living up on a hill and when I drove back home last time there was snow and I had to use 4x4 all the way up back home. 4x4 worked fine. I parked the truck and switched of 4x4.
But when I started the truck next time and switched in a gear the 4x4 dash light started blinking. But different to many post I read so far the 4x4 dash light is not just blinking 6 times every 2 minutes, it is blinking constantly very fast (double time of flasher) as soon as I switch in a gear, even without moving the car. The dash light is blinking regardingless to the position of the 4x4 switch. I realized that interior lamp is flashing in same rythm as the 4x4 dash light.
When I shift from 2HI to 4HI 4WD does not engage but it sounds like shift motor on transfer case is doing something. When I switch to 4LO 4WD does not engage either but the gear reduction works. I noticed that when I drive downhill and put on brakes the 4x4 dash light stops blinking for short.
What might be the problem?
What I tested so far:
- All fuses (under dash and under hood) are okay
- Relays under the hood (they switch when I connect them to 12V)
- Switched heating mode selector to panel. Air comes out of panel. Then switched on 4x4 and air comes still out of panel. Not switching to window. So vacuum pump system should be okay as well, right?
- disconnected car battery for a while. Reconnected, started engine, put in a gear and 4x4 dash light was NOT blinking any more. But as soon as I drove a few meters it started blinking again.
- When I drive the speed indicator works as well. So shouldn't be the rear speed sensor, right?
What else can I test?
All of a sudden wouldn't start Saturday morning. Turns over fast. No fire. Waited a while and tried again and it started and ran fine. It did it again Saturday afternoon, so I changed the fuel filter. Gas from filter was very dirty. Still did it after filter change, so I replaced the fuel pump relay. Still did it twice on Sunday. Once it starts, it runs perfectly. Drove it 200 miles without a problem until I killed it. Then it wouldn't start.
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