Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Clicking Noise From Rear End When Slowing Down From About 20 MPH
Apr 28, 2012
2003 F150 SuperCrew 9.75". Today we got to tearing into my rear end on my truck. I was having a clicking noise from the rear end when slowing down from about 20mph. It was a constant click, click, click, click. It was driving me nuts. Well when I first tore the cover off to change the wheel bearings I found some metal pieces in the bottom of the rear end housing.
I did some researching and came to the conclusion it was the shims behind the side gears or the clutch packs. Well it turned out to be the clutch packs were totally shot!! The side gears and the spider gears were loose and kinda just flopping around!! I ended up changing the side gears and spiders gears, bought them as a kit through ford and then the clutch packs.
The job overall wasn't to hard at all. The hardest part was getting the spider gears spun into the carrier. Ford has a "special tool" that that compresses the clutches and another to hold the carrier through the splines in the gears so you can spin the carrier itself to spin the spider gears in. We ended up using the axel shaft itself and clamping it into a vise and setting the carrier on it to hold it from being able to spin.
We then took a piece of all thread and put it through the side gears and put washers on each of the side gears and nuts in-between them and then spinning the nuts up and down to compress the clutches. Basically what Fords "special tool" does. Then just spun the carrier with the pin that goes through the two spider gears and that was about it. Once we got that done it was all basically putting it all back together.
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My 1997 4.0 Rear Wheel Drive is making a clicking noise when it is put into gear or when it switches from drive to reverse and vice versa. Sound is coming from the back of van. Does not make noise all the time. Drove 50 miles last night with no problems and minimal clicking. Could it be U-Joints going bad? Or is this a different problem?
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Got a 99 f150 4x4. 4x4 use to work perfectly until 6 months ago. Now every time I turn the key on, I hear 5-6 clicks behind the dash (specifically behind the speedometer). This happened right when the 4x4 stopped working. This click is the same sound it use to make when it was working when I would shift 2H, 4H or 4L. (but just one click per turn). I get no light indicators nor click sound when I turn the switch. I've replaced the actuator, solenoids and the switch on the dash itself.
The same problem persists. I have a good vacuum and can see the actuator moving when manually grounding either solenoid to simulate a working 4x4 system. Fuse 23 and 104 are good. I had a semi-mechanic check the GEM and said 90% chance it was good but did come back with code 1838 Transmission Transfer Case Shift Motor Circuit Failure and code 1867 Transmission Transfer Case Contact Plate General Circuit Failure.The secret relay went bad? The wire went bad? Secret 4x4 connector came loose somewhere?
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It's a 97 with the 4.6 v8. I turn the key and the lights in the cab go out. A voltmeter on the battery reads 12.53 and doesn't drop at all when the key is turned. I took the alternator out and had it tested with a pass. The battery was replaced 2 months ago. I can hear the relay in the fuse box clicking away after the key is returned to the off position. Is my next step a new starter? Solenoid? Relay? This all just happened overnight. And it's only got 115,000 miles. The starter does not turn over...
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When I turn left a "clicking" noise appears, it's rhythmic and I figured it was the CV joint at the drivers side going bad. Bought a new one and installed it. Clicking seemed to get away for maybe 5-7 days. Then it occurred again. Because the package in which the cv joint arrived was very roughed up I thought maybe it took damage during delivery and bought a new one. Installed and guess what? Took a drive after that, NOTHING and now it's clicking again. It's so loud you can hear it when you drive behind my truck and I'm turning. Doesn't seem to make a difference if I brake or not.
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On my 2003 f150 4 by 4 I've been hearing clicking noises. When i take off from the start it starts clicking then gets faster up until I hit about 30 mph then goes away. The sound is coming from the back. Whenever I goes in reverse it rattles a little bit too (not so much of the clicking). Do I have a bad u joint somewhere back there?
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I engage my 4wd all the time to keep it working and lubed up. tonight i turned it on and it was making a light clicking noise like a card in the spokes of a bike (not loud) and there was no vibrations or nothing that really sounded bad..what could be making this noise, what should I look for...
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Start truck cold, getting clicking noise...sounds like valve but runs great. Warms up and clicking goes away. Remove #1 spark plug and it shows build up of whitish carbon. Will remove the other spark plugs and check. Also starting to use half a can of oil a week. No leaks that I can see. Oil pressure gauge shows high...always has. Also, open door and get out after driving and smell oil. Wanted to make it to 400k but might not be able to with this issue.
Going to do a compression check to see what else is happening. Still have decent power. If cylinder pressure is good would it make since to do just a "top end" rebuild (if it is a valve issue? Should i pull it and do a complete rebuild? What does white build up on spark plug usually indicate?
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2002 f150 fx4 ... I changed both front cv shafts cause they were making noise and the u joints and I still have a clicking noise in reverse if I turn my wheel at all to the right ...
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I have a 2002 f150 4.6L triton. I've been having problems with it making a clicking noise. It only does it when its in gear. I put it in park or natural I hear nothing. But as soon as I put it in drive or reverse and put a little pressure on throttle it starts to tick pretty loudly.
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So i just got my car back from the dealership today. they claimed my poping/clicking noise was due to my oil catch not being secure. so they secured it for me and it doesn't move at all now and I still hear the popping/clicking noise when slowing down or speeding up abruptly and when backing out of parking spots.
I have torqued all the subframe bolts and done the subframe washer and also retorqued all the suspension bolts for the struts and the strut mounts and bearings are brand new. It almost sounds like a cv joint or some sort of ball joint popping. They said they checked the cv joint and there is no play and looks fine .
It also quiets down when its wet out but when its hot and dry its very loud and bystanders can hear the noise.
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1997 ford f150 automatic 4x4 was perfectly fine till today ,no slipping no warning nothing.pulled in the driveway and about 30 minutes later had to run out.the truck tried and pulled like it wanted to go while in drive but wouldn't.then i tried it in reverse and went fine like nothing is wrong.i put it back into drive accelerated for a minute then it went for about 15 miles.while at a red light tried to go and it wouldnt move but was able to put it in reverse to back out of the lane.so i had it tow roped back home and halfway there while accelerated about 10 miles into it it caught and ran fine till i slowed down.at home i changed the tranny filter and fluid.no foul smell,the fluid looked perfect,no metal nothing in the tranny pan,i tried to put it in 2wd and 4wd to see if it would go and still did nothing.after accelerating the gas a minute it pulled and tried to move forward but nothing.
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I have a 1999 f-150 and am having a problem that I cannot pin down . After starting the truck and running it for 10 min or so I shut it off and it will not restart again for approx. 3-4 hrs . When you turn the key there is a clicking noise coming from behind the fuse panel . Also the truck will not start if temp outside rises above 80 degrees . Is there a replaceable relay under there or is it the computer module ? Battery is new .
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I am having trouble with my 2001 F-150. Starting yesterday it would not start. At 1st i thought it wa the battery, so i took it off, charged it, put it back in the truck and still no start. There is a clicking noise coming from a relay in the cabin fuse box, disconnected the battery, removed relay to inspect and everything looks good. After plugging it back in, and connecting the battery, the truck still wont start and there is a clicking sound coming from the dash near the radio. Rhis is my work vehicle!!!
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I have a code P1740 that sets after a couple of drive cycles. This is preceeded by a flashing "Overdrive Off" light, until the MIL eventually comes on.
The only driveability symptom seems to be a premature downshift into first when slowing down. When cruising at highway speeds, I can turn OD on or off using the switch on the end of the shift lever and all appears OK.
Could it be the OD solenoid, and if so is this something I could change myself?
2001 F-150 4.6L 51K miles
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I have a 1998 F-250 LD 4x4 with 462,000 km. I have been hearing for some time quite a drone coming from the rear axle. I am guessing the wheel bearings are due, as both front ones have been replaced, but never the rear. More about the noise, I hear it come to life as I gain speed. The faster, the louder. If I decelerate the noise is still present, but volume significantly decreases. Should I change the oil and friction modifier and see if there's an improvement or go ahead and change both bearings too?
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2000 f150 182000 makes a rumbling noise from rear end mainly when turning at slow speeds. Thought it might of been axle bearings so replaced them this weekend to no avail. I have the 9.75 limited slip rear end but what I found out this weekend is that the axle bearings are for 8.8 , the 9.75 bearings was to big.
So does this mean I have 9.75 ring gear with 8.8 axles ? I have been using royal purple 75-140 with no friction modifier because royal purple says its it there.
But after doing some research Im going to go get some friction modifier and see if it works . So my question is how much of a pain is it to replace the clutch packs? What if I wanted to just put a different differential in and do away with limited slip ? Or go with a different aftermarket limited slip diff. ? what are my options , etc.
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I have a 2001 ford truck and it makes a growling sound when i am turning right but is not when going straight ahead wondering what part in the rear end could be making this sound.
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So I had the same , "noise" in the rear of my truck that i see other people having, at first I thought it was my tires, since I ran buckshots, so I switched over to street tires, and low and behold it sounded like I had buckshots still on the truck. So this thursday I pulled the diff cover off, and guess what i found!
The abs ring on the ring gear, was completely off , and the bolt that holds the pin for the spider gears was broken with just about maybe 3/8 to 5/16 of an inch left in the pin, right now i am still working on how to get that out of there.
also found a 1999 ford f150 2wd truck, 4.6 auto , that someone pulled a 1997 4.6 engine out of and put it in this truck and now it won't charge, and i think it's cause of the pcm needing to be reflashed. tested the alt, battery, everything is good, i just don't know if the pcm controls the charging system.
Pics will come soon of the differential destruction.
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I just came back from a long trip and during the 400 miles drive I started to hear noise coming from my differential - kind of like a constant high gear loud noise. I will hear this noise when I start to accelerate and it will only gets louder and louder as I go faster and faster. I had a pinion seal leaked fixed last week and I checked the fluid and it is full.
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2001 F150--V8-4.6-3.55--8.8. 221000 Miles. Changed front rotors and pads. Had scrubbing noise from right rear when applying breaks heavily. Changed rear rotors and pads. Still have scrubbing noise when breaking hard. I do not hear any noise when driving regular or when normal breaking. Differential fluid was a tad low. Applied fluid. Still have scrubbing noise. No leaks at hub seal or pinion. Bearings ? Maybe?
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