Ok on the way the my 1997 f150 4.6 L 180,000 check engine light started flashing and running rough and then the light went off, Also we took the Aftermarket Dynomax muffler off of it earlier today if that makes any difference, it still has the Cat Converter, New Plugs and Napa Wires.....
View 12 RepliesMy girlfriend has a 2002 F-150 with the 4.6 V8 and I was going to change the spark plugs for her. She said it started running rough and it threw a code and check engine light. She took it for a scan and they told her the number 5 plug was mis-firing. I'm fairly handy and bought a set of the recommended Motorcraft plugs from Rock Auto, AGSF32PM. It also matched the number in the owners manual so I thought I was pretty safe.
Funny thing, when I took the old ones out, they were AGSF22WM's instead. My thinking is they are a colder plug than the supposedly original equipment, but I don't think they've been changed before. They looked well used but the color was good. The truck has about 135K on it.
Long story short, and to get to the question(s), Would there be any reason the factory would have put a different plug in the engine than what is listed? Am I asking for trouble going with a hotter plug than what's been in there (pinging or timing retardation/loss of power)? Am I just overthinking the whole thing and need to put it back together and drive it?
I started out with my 2000 F150 with a 5.4 V8 running rough at idle. It would idle way down slow and then rev up a little over and over. On a couple of occasions it would even die when in drive or reverse. I did finally get a Check Engine light so i put it on my diagnostic program to see what was up. Here is what I got:
P1151 Lack of HO2S21 Indicates Lean
P0171 System Too Lean Bank 1
p0174 System Too Lean Bank 2
After doing some reading up I checked all my vacuum hoses and cleaned my mass air flow sensor. I then got the same codes again after a few minutes of running. So I went to the next thing that was recommended, the upstream bank 2 O2 sensor. After changing it the truck ran fine for a couple of days, no issues. Then all of the sudden it idled a little funny again and I got a Check Engine Light again. This time:
P0171 Bank 1 Lean
P0174 Bank 2 Lean
P0300 Random/Multiple Misfire
I reset the light to see if I would get the same again later. Before the light came on again I filled my truck up with gas and it seemed to be running pretty good again. Then a day or so later it set the light again. This time:
P0171 Bank 1 Lean
P0174 Bank 2 Lean
P0136 O2 Circuit Malfunction Bank 1 Sensor 2
P0156 O2 Circuit Malfunction Bank 2 Sensor 2
P1131 Lack of Switches HO2S11 Lean
P1151 Lack of Switches HO2S21 Lean
I went ahead and drove for a few days as it had gotten really cold here and I didn't feel like messing around in my shop since it isn't heated. A couple days ago I needed gas so i filled up again. Suddenly the problem was gone again. Truck ran fine idled fine no missing or odd idling at all. That lasted a day or two before it started acting a little weird again. At that point i was down about 1/8 of a tank from full. I have read that there can be issues with the fuel pump.. I am kind of wondering if that may be it now. But I haven't had to deal with this sort of issue before so I am unsure what to check next. The truck always runs fine off idle, it only seems to have the issue when it is idling. I had reset the codes the last time and i have the light on again now. I haven't checked it yet but I am sure it is going be some combination of what i have had in the past.
I have read that the IAC valve can be an issue as well. I had a problem with mine sticking a couple years ago and when it would do it you could just tap it with a wrench and it would idle up. But it never died like it does now and it would also idle a lot slower than it does. Back then I cleaned the valve and had no more issues with it. The truck has always had times when it would act weird at idle usually after slowing down after being at highway speed. The current issue happens at all temps cold or hot.
I replaced the heater core in my truck this weekend. The only thing I was worried about was pulling the dash. The truck is a 1998 f150 with the 5.4.. Everything went fairy well and decided to replace the AT Shift cable as well. Got everything put back. Truck runs, no leaks, no antifreeze smell. After running about 20 minutes, it started idling a little rough and my check engine light came on.
The codes are p0136, p0156, p1131, and p1151. I know these are related to the OS sensors. My question is could it be as simple as I miss an electrical connection when putting the dash back in? Was thinking possibly somewhere on the passenger side under the kick plate or possibly something while hooking up the heater hoses? Maybe even a ground that didn't get connected back when putting the das back in?
Got an 07 Screw with only 50,000 miles. Yesterday, wife drove it home from work and said it would only do 45mph and didn't sound good. No warning lights were on, she said. I test drove it in the evening and it ran totally fine. Today, she drives it to work and said it ran real rough and "Check Engine" light was on. I picked it up from her work and it idles very rough and slow, and once you hit about 2000 rpm, it runs decent, maybe even normal. Below that, it stumbles and engine doesn't sound right. "Check Engine" light is either ON steady, or flashing. I don't have a code reader, so its likely going to the Ford Dealer Monday. Is there any way to read the code without a reader?
View 11 Replies2005 F-150 4.6L 2WD, 268,000 miles....
Recently I got a flashing 'Check Engine' light and a rough running engine (along with a tapping noise) when I was passing someone (and pulling a trailer). I retrieved codes 300, 304, & 305. I can't swear to it, but I think the tapping noise started at the same time as the coil problem.
I replaced coils #4 & #5 (later that same day) and the engine smoothed back out but the tapping noise is still hanging around. The noise speeds up at higher RPM's and doesn't go away if I shift into neutral. Oil level and pressure are fine and I only use Motorcraft 5W-20 and Motorcraft filters (and change the oil every 5K miles).
Not sure if this is relevant: I think I have bad valve guide seals (blue smoke after long idles) but no other problems that I am aware of. It sort of sounds like a lifter, but is there a good way to pin it down? Is it possible that this tapping is related to the bad coils?
Well it finally happened, a couple of weeks ago I was headed to an MX race and my check engine light came on and it started running rough. Long story short a piece of an exhaust valve broke off and went out through the head. Dealer has been great even though I was 300 miles from home and they did get me a rental(small POS SUV). Truck was supposed to be finished this week, but now they are saying the head gasket is on back order and they probably won't have one until the middle of April......... I can't be without my truck that long, but not much I can do. By the way truck is completely stock with just under 20K on it, and I have never had any issues with any of my Ford trucks or Ford diesels, even my old 6.0.
View 7 Replies1998 Nissan Maxima had a check engine light come on and started running very rough. I took it to get a code read and came up with P0320 and P0325. I'm not worried about the 0325 since that's a knock sensor. 0320 is a misfire on cylinder 2.
With the car idling, I pulled the power connector from coil pack 2 to see if it made a difference in the idle - nope. I did the same for the other cylinders, and each responded with a noticeable change in the idle, which was remedied when it was reconnected.
I moved the coil pack from #2 to #4 (swapping them) and the same problem existed - idle was rough and didn't make a difference when I pulled the power on 2, but it did on all other coil packs. So, it seems the coil pack ins't the problem since multiple packs don't seem to make 2 work, but they work on other 4 and 6.
I then pulled the spark plug from cylinder 2, it was very black and looked in bad shape. I replaced it. Still no love.
I then put a spare plug in the coil and was able to see spark as the engine ran, so it seems that the coil pack at 2 is getting juice.
So, I have gas (big odor when the car is running - seems super rich) I have spark. Still running very rough and the 0320 code remains.
I have a 2008 Kia Rio, 4 Cyl 1.6L, and recently the check engine light came on and the car started running real rough after getting the timing belt replaced at firestone. I took it back to Firestone and they said that 2 of the cylinders where misfiring and i need to replace the ignition coils and the corresponding spark plugs, but that i also want to get a catalytic converter cleaning or flush or something like that because of the unburnt gas that was running into the converter. Is this true? They want to charge me another 100.00 for the cleaning on top of the 300.00 to replace the 2 ignition coils and spark plugs, should i get this done or can i clean it out myself?
View 6 RepliesI have a 2003 ranger and have had ongoing problems with misfire cylinder six and have had three different mechanics diagnose the problem as a bad ground. I have replaced all plugs, wires, coil pack, injectors and am constantly pulling the plug on cylinder six, cleaning and often replacing, I also disconnect the battery so it resets the check engine light and it runs fine for about 100 miles and starts running rough again and on goes the check engine light. I have 134000 miles and have maintained it since new.....
View 4 RepliesI have a 2000 f150 4x2 5.4 168k... Check engine came on,started shaking, weather was really cold. RPM would be a little high then low then back up. Especially when I turned on heater. Felt like truck would die but never does nor does it have issue starting.
So far, I have replaced two oxygen sensors inside engine,all coils, spark plugs, fuel filter, had injectors cleaned, intake cleaned. Truck runs better but, light came on a day later again. I can feel the tiniest of shaking going on and, cold mornings still make RPMS a little unstable. I was driving truck on highway at about 60 mph when a slight tug was felt and Truck check engine came on. I feel truck heavy, once it warms up completely, a little lighter.
Codes came up at auto zone as P1151
But I'm running out of options and frankly, money to fix this truck.
Checked the MAF and looked okay.
I'm with minimal skills.
I have an 03 Passat with about 70K miles on it. My daughter put rug in it this morning (about 7 gallons) and since then the check engine light came on and the car is running really rough at stops. While accelerating, it seems to be fine. It is also getting about 10 mpg less than normal. MIL codes: P0300, P0301, P0302, P0303, P0304, and P0171. He said the P03xx codes were related to misfirings on each cylinder. The P0171 is a bank 1 failure (?). What do those codes really mean and could they be related to bad gas? Sent her off in my TDI JSW so she's not out on the highway if the Passat decides it doesn't want to go anymore.
View 6 RepliesI have a 2001 F150 4.6L auto. This truck suddenly started running rough. Cleared all codes and re-scanned after starting truck. The codes are as follows; P0135, P0155, P0443, P0740, P0743, P0758, P1451, P1460, P1747, and P1760.
My question is; is it normal to have this many DTCs come up at once? Could my PCM be faulty causing this problem? Can you swap a pcm from the same year truck with the same options without reprogramming?
I got a 99 f150 with a 4R70W and 311,000 miles on it and last year the od light started flashing while I was going down the interstate so I checked the fluid when i got home and it was beyond burnt so i changed fluid and filter. So a month or so ago it started doing this thing where on take off it will rev up like its in neutral for a couple seconds then reengage and drive normal till i stop and start to take off again. It don't do it every time and it drives/pulls just fine other than that.
View 4 Replies1997 Ford F150 - 133K Miles - 6cyl - 4.2L. This is a truck that gets less than 2K/year put on it. Has had "issues" with worn bearings and holding oil pressure for a few years now. Yesterday, the check engine light started flashing (as opposed to solidly lit) and the code came back as a cylinder #4 misfire (only the one code). The truck was clearly not firing on all cylinders and at idle, ran terribly (couldn't be driven). I just did a compression test on all the cylinders and all measured around 140-145psi except the #4 which read almost 170psi. I rechecked this a few times as well as a couple of the others and am now sure of the results. What could cause this one cylinder to have a higher compression ? Is whatever is causing this increase in the compression, also be the cause of them misfire ?? I'm stumped here and quite frankly, expected the compression on the #4 cylinder to be really low as opposed to the others.
View 13 RepliesThe brake lights on my '02 F150 have started flashing spontaneously ie - with no one in truck. This lasts for a few minutes, then stops, but can start again a few minutes later. The fear of course is that someday lights could come on and stay on, resulting in dead battery.
I do have a trailer brake controller that has been on truck ten years. Read something on internet that brake pedal switch might be going bad (??). Any one else observed this strange behavior?
2006 F150 Triton 5.4 Motor... It's been over a months journey with fixing this truck....
How it started: had an oil change, a while back, on long drive after, check engine light started flashing as I accelerated up hill so I pulled over and in a while it was ok, but couldn't get on the gas too much, or it would cause that flashy light thing.
So fast forward to now, after driving it with an intermittent miss for a while, was driving it to work and the miss became a shudder, and she stopped going over 30-40, and runs extremely rough.
Steady but loud idle.
Replaced all plugs with motocraft plugs and new coils all around. No change.
Finally hooked it up to a computer and got random misfires, now it's saying
P0174 bank 2 too lean,
But it's bank ONE that's the only side misfiring.
Here are the freeze frame details:
Frame 1 Mod $00
MIL Status Off
Troub Code P0174
Abslt TPS 24.3%
Eng speed 1665
Baro PRS 71 kpa
Calc Load 100%
[Code].....
I have a 97 f150 (built 96 as 97 model), 4.2l 4x4, auto tranny. Here's the problem, when I turn my key forward to run position my starter kicks on and starts the truck, and stays engaged. I have a constant 14v at the signal wire on the starter relay (yellow red stripe). Also tranny started to slip, od light flashing. I replaced ignition lock cylinder, ignition/ starter switch, starter relay, starter, and today transmission range sensor (neutral safety switch 8 pin), same problem. Cel code that I had 2 days ago was P0707 tr sensor low input.
View 8 RepliesMy 3.0 with 216k miles has developed a rough idle and it progressively got better with new parts and cleanings. On startup it revs up to 2k then back down to 600. If I let it idle for about 8 or so minutes my Check Engine Light starts flashing. If I drive about for a little bit it stops and is just fine.
While the light is flashing I get codes P1000, P0305, P0306, and P0316. Which are OBDII Monitor Testing Not Complete, Misfire detected in Cyl 5, Misfire detected in Cyl 6 and Engine Misfire Detected on Startup (First 1000 Revolutions) respectively. Any other time the truck runs like a dream. Gets 20 city and 29.5 highway.
I cleaned my Mass Air Flow, replaced my Idle Air Control, SeaFoamed throttle body and vacuum lines, brand new coil pack, new wires, new plugs, new fuel filter, I've only ever run 91 octane, Chevron with Techron goes in at every oil change and B12 every other and I just ran 3 bottles of Lucas fuel injector cleaner.
2003 ford explorer 4.6L. This truck will start and run rough high temp low oil light come on and temp gauge is pegged hot. Oil gauge is fine though, checked oil its fine.
I checked coolant reservoir its ok.
If I shut truck off and restart it will run ok and rev like normal and then all of a sudden go into limp mode and will misfire etc...
What sensor seems to be the main culprit?cht sensor???
I've got a problem with a 2000 Impreza 2.5RS 5spd. It started with the check engine light coming on. A trip to Auto zone revealed that the O2 sensor was the problem. But on the way home, the light came on again and started flashing. All the while the car started acting like it had a misfire. It idles really rough and the exhaust smells like it's running really rich. I've replaced the plugs and wires, and all corners of the ignition coil check out properly as well. Can the O2 sensor cause a misfire in one or more of the cylinders? Or is something else that I should be interrogating as the cause?
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