Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Check Engine Light Is On - Cylinder Head Over Temperature / Overheating
May 14, 2014
I have a problem nobody can figure out. My check engine light is on. Took it to Advance to have it scanned; came backwith Code 1226, Brake warning light ground short ( not concerned that at this time); Code P1285, cylinder head over temperature; and P1299, engine overheating (this repeated 4 times).
Now for the symptoms: Truck start and runs good, except with engine light on, runs about 4 miles, then the temperature gauge goes all way up, oil light come on (But oil pressure gauge is OK), Have loss power, and heater has no heat. I shut key off, restart, runs perfect, gauges OK, heater OK.
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whats the best way to clean a 97 f150 5.4 cyl head
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I have a 1999 Ford E150 4.2l. My cylinder head temp sensor was dangling but still connected to the sensor... the connector was loosed from the filament but was still connected by exposed metal pins.
I figured I would replace it like i did to my ECT by the Water Pump. So I pulled the connector out and it started to leak...a little. and when I put the socket on it I instantly broke the sensor flush with the Cylinder Head.
I researched on here and found many people believe the CHT gives info to the Dashboard Gauge and the ECT is used by the ECU. I thought that was correct because I had ECT readings from my scantool...and my Dash Gauge never worked. When I found the dangling CHT I figured it was never working.
So I JB welded CHT hole. figuring i would fix it properly later. I replaced the ECT and expected everything to go back to normal.. No gauge reading on dash and a scan reading with no codes.
I want to replace the CHT sensor properly. Do I HAVE to remove the manifolds. Or do you think its safe to drain the coolant and drill it out. Its easy access. Im worried about all the tiny pieces getting into narrow passage ways.
I am almost 100% going to drill out. Manifold sounds like hell and its getting cold. What sensor controls what? Can I drill it out safely?
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1997 Ford Ranger with 190K miles has check engine light on with P302 computer code, meaning misfire on cylinder 2. Engine runs rough at idle only once it warms up, which only takes a minute. It is usually fine while driving, but it's a lot easier to feel a misfire at lower RPMs than at higher ones. Added fuel injector cleaner to gas for a couple tanks, no change. My mechanic has checked spark plugs, fuel injector, o2 sensor, and everything is ok. Dry compression test shows good compression. He thinks it may be a valve sticking, which means a valve job: expensive. Is there anything else that can be done? Why is there no misfire when it is first started?
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My wife is talking to someone about purchasing a 1998 4.6 4x4 EB Expedition. The owner says the only issue is a tick coming from the driver's side head. He claims the shop told him it was "just a cam stator". Now, say what you will, but I've dabbled just enough with mod motors (2v and 3v, 4.6's and 5.4's) to feel like I'd rather stick to old pushrods. I've never heard of a "cam stator" on a 2v 4.6. I also realize that stator is a word that gets tossed around a bit by people who don't fully understand what it is.
Now, this is a relatively high mileage engine (something like 220k I think) so I know it could be a whole slew of things from cracked/leaking exhaust mani, lifters, timing chain, etc. But, in all my searching, "2v 4.6 cam stator" keeps leading me to people troubleshooting pushrod distributors, 3v VVT troubleshooting, and alternator related posts. Is this such a thing, what this shop may have been trying to refer to? He claims it's done it for about 5 years now, and runs perfectly fine. I'm leaning towards lifter, but the truck is 3 hours away so I haven't got to check it out yet....
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Ok I got this truck from my mother-in-law for free with a blown head gasket cylinder 6 driver side. I did the replacement had the heads machined put it all back together by the book. Now I can't get it to fire on all 6 cylinders only 5 I think. Thought maybe bad gas (it sat since late November) put 5 gallons (over double the gas) fresh gas and half a bottle of b-12 chem tool. Dubble checked all plugs wires connections (coils plugs wires all new). I drove for about 10 miles oil pressure and temperature stayed perfect but no change in running truck shakes a lot and no real power. Don't sputter or backfire no engine codes other than imcr bank 2 open. Engine is 4.2l v-6 170k miles.
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So when I bought the car, it had a check engine light. I had it checked it said cylinder 5 misfire. I assumed it was the glow plug so I bought it and replaced the glow plugs myself. Check engine light went away for about a day then came back on. Got it checked again and still said cylinder 5 misfire. This is my first diesel and I'm clueless as to what's wrong. Any way to check what's wrong myself?
Also just to double check, the cylinder number is 1, 3, 5, 7 for the passenger side front to back right? And 2, 4, 6, 8 for drivers side? And front to back means when looking at the front of the car? 2001 7.3 Excursion Limited with 232k miles...
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I have a 2003 ranger and have had ongoing problems with misfire cylinder six and have had three different mechanics diagnose the problem as a bad ground. I have replaced all plugs, wires, coil pack, injectors and am constantly pulling the plug on cylinder six, cleaning and often replacing, I also disconnect the battery so it resets the check engine light and it runs fine for about 100 miles and starts running rough again and on goes the check engine light. I have 134000 miles and have maintained it since new.....
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(The truck is a 05 f250 with a 5.4l). The problem first started out with the engine temperature gauge spiking and then resetting itself when the truck is turned off and then turned back on. If I drove the truck for any distance it would go into limp mode and the CEL would come on. The code was p1299, which is the cylinder head temperature sensor, and I replaced the sensor but no luck. Then the shop and I went through all accessories hooked up and couldn't find a short until I remembered that my prodigy break controller would occasionally read "ol" or "sh" which both readings are from shorts. I tow a enclosed trailer about 85% of the time and the past week I have been towing it with a different 250 and the same break controller without a problem so I have eliminated the trailer. But the shop just said the problem was the controller and unhooked it.
Now the next day it threw the same code with the controller unhooked and the trailer hooked up. after thinking it seemed that it was happening when i accelerated so I took apart the 7 pin and sure enough there was a little water in it, but after driving it around for a little and no code being thrown I hooked my break controller up and it still was showing ol or sh so i believe there is still a short. Also I noticed that my voltage is reading right at 13v instead of the 13.8-14v it was reading before this issue arose. I think I have narrowed it down to the 7 pin harness and/or electrical in the break components, but do not know what would loop back to the temperature sensor.
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I have a 2003 Chrysler Town & Country and the check engine light is on. I brought the van to my mechanic and he told me there was a code that told him there was a misfire on cylinder #1. He started out with replacing the wire to cylinder #1, no change. He replaced the spark plug, no change. He installed a new fuel injector, no change. The van runs a little ruff at idle and when at a stop light.
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Need to identify this part? I believe this part is causing my check engine light to continually come on, due to worn out connectors (I.e. Vacuum leak)!
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I have a 1997 ford f 150 with a 4.2 ltr v6 the check engine light came on so i took it to autozone and had the code pulled. They told me that the o2 sensor bank2 sensor 1 which is before the converter had a slow response so i checked the wiring and bought the o2 sensor. They told me bank 2 is the passenger side but well i changed the1st sensor on the passenger side and reset the code and drove the truck about 130 miles . and the light came back on. After reading a few posts. I think they told me wrong is the drivers side bank 2 or is the passenger side bank 2 ...
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My 2001 F-150 4.6L was hesitating around 1500 RPM and the check engine light was on, dealer said the oxygen sensors needed to be cleaned. Had the work done and the problem still exists, the check engine light intermittently came on. I tried 89 octane fuel and the check engine light is off and the engine runs smoothly. I'm just a weekend mechanic and can do mostly basic stuff but the only time I've come across something like this is when I accidentally put 87 octane in my bike.
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99 F250 LD 4x4 w/5.4 - 218k .... Check engine light just came on so I had the trouble codes pulled. 071 and 074 . Lean on banks 1 and 2 . Truck is running fine as far as I can tell. I know it can be o2 sensors, pcv, maf sensor or loose vacuum line somewhere. I just put a new motorcraft pcv valve on before this happened so I rechecked the lines , all seem to be fine. Is there a inexpensive scanner that I can check the o2 sensors without just throwing money at new ones.
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I got a question, what is after ac hose vacuum left side on a 10 th gen 4.2l engine bay by the firewall, to the right of the blue thing, right of that on that line their is a 2 end diameter rubber vacuum line? What is that called, I need a replacement.
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So I have been having some troubles with my 2003 F150 4.6L ... Truck has been running rough and the check engine light was on so I decided to get the codes read and I got back P0302 and P0304, which from what I understand is a misfire on cylinders 3 & 4. At the same time I got Ford to do a little diagnostic and this is what they wrote for me:
"The connector for the number 2 coil is broken and will not stay plugged on to the coil and the number 2 coil is not working / replaced the wire for the coil still running rough removed the coil and plug. the plug was very badly fuel soaked started the vehicle to see if there was spark at the plug. OK. Suspect either a injector issue or a compression issue cleaned the plug seems better. "
So of course they quoted me for the works. They say I should replace the coils, plugs, and injectors??? I am pretty mechanically inclined and think I could change these things myself since I am on a budget. One tech told me is that the plugs can seize in these engines often and could scrap the whole thing??? Seems a little weird. If that happens though what could I do?
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Ive got a question for all you code readers out there. My dreaded check engine light has been on for about a month. I bought a code reader recently and checked it out. Two codes come up; PO401 and PO446. What these mean. My book says "Exhaust Gas Recirc. Flow Insufficient Detected" and " Evaporative Emission Control System Vent Control Circuit Malfunction". Which sensors, location on vehicle, etc..... this is a 97 5.4L Expedition.
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My girlfriend has a 2002 F-150 with the 4.6 V8 and I was going to change the spark plugs for her. She said it started running rough and it threw a code and check engine light. She took it for a scan and they told her the number 5 plug was mis-firing. I'm fairly handy and bought a set of the recommended Motorcraft plugs from Rock Auto, AGSF32PM. It also matched the number in the owners manual so I thought I was pretty safe.
Funny thing, when I took the old ones out, they were AGSF22WM's instead. My thinking is they are a colder plug than the supposedly original equipment, but I don't think they've been changed before. They looked well used but the color was good. The truck has about 135K on it.
Long story short, and to get to the question(s), Would there be any reason the factory would have put a different plug in the engine than what is listed? Am I asking for trouble going with a hotter plug than what's been in there (pinging or timing retardation/loss of power)? Am I just overthinking the whole thing and need to put it back together and drive it?
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I was driving along today and my Check Engine light came on. I stopped at the nearest Advance Auto to have them pull the code and it came up with the P0420, Catalyst Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1). I asked what could cause this and they mentioned that the fuel that was put in could be causing it. They didn't mention any other possible causes. Any others? I'm thinking it could be the fuel because the last gas station that I stopped at and filled up at is one that I never go to, and maybe just got a bad batch of fuel.
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I own a 1998 ford f150 4.6l triton v8. I was leaving my house to go on a snowboarding trip about three weeks ago it was a rather warm wet day and all of the sudden my check engine light began to flash. I immediately pulled over and restarted my truck, once it was started again it was solid.
I turned around and started driving towards home. I get a small amount of feedback from my speakers and usually it's a smooth whizzing sound but as i accelerated the sound began to stutter rather than remain smooth. after about 5 minutes of driving this went away and the check engine light remained on.
so today I went out it's also a wet day and it's raining quite a lot. on my way into town everything seemed okay. then on my way home the check engine light began to flash again and the feedback from the speakers became choppy again.
I would also like to mention my battery light is on but it was on prior to the first time this happened. I'm just wondering if the belt could be loose or slipping due to the wet weather?
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Ok on the way the my 1997 f150 4.6 L 180,000 check engine light started flashing and running rough and then the light went off, Also we took the Aftermarket Dynomax muffler off of it earlier today if that makes any difference, it still has the Cat Converter, New Plugs and Napa Wires.....
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