Light did not come on for a while then it finally did. I replaced all plugs & that did nothing, almost made it worse. Put a scanner on it & it reads bank one lean, misfire. i unplugged all the coils one at a time on the drivers side & didn't notice any drop in rpms. On a side note, the exhaust leaks a bit of water out of the tailpipes a bit at idle.
View 3 RepliesJust started the truck after not running for a few weeks and drove around fine. Looked down and suddenly a CEL was indicated. Checked it with my Edge Evolution diagnostic mode and Code P0161 came up 2nd bank downstream heater circuit fault. I've also have an exhaust leak in the right passenger side exhaust manifold for about the last year. I've been waiting to install my newer 03' used engine when time and funds permit.
View 3 RepliesI have a 98 F150 4x4 Super Cab 4.6 auto that has a leaking exhaust manifold. I changed both manifolds about 3 years ago and the passenger side bank is leaking again. I haven't gotten into yet to see if its just the gasket or the manifold itself. My question is does anyone know of a set of headers I can put on the truck that will bolt up to the existing exhaust? If I make the switch to headers I don't want to have to redo the whole exhaust system.
View 3 RepliesI just purchased a 2003 F150 Supercrew 4.6 that had been wrecked, but somewhat repaired. I knew the owner said it had a blown head gasket. It has water in the oil (small amount asi it is lightly milky) and water starts dripping from the exhaust after it has run for a few minutes. I did not run it long, but throttled it up to warm the engine. It started dripping soot filled water from the exhaust connections. I bought it to put a 4bt in it anyway, but want to sell the motor with the ability to tell the buyer the skinny on it. I drove it on the trailer and off with no apparent loss of power noticeable.
View 2 RepliesI have unfortunately discovered that rain is coming through the rear window of my truck. If it was a big job to fix it. The caulking appears to be rotten and I'm wondering if some goop will seal it up. I'm just not sure how to get the trim off!!
View 14 RepliesPatching cracks of the rear window frame? I am talking about the actual glass casing assembly and the cracks are viewable from inside the cab of the truck. I've found two small cracks and that is exactly where the water will stream in.
I was just about to pull the rear window out to replace the butyl seal when I pinpointed the cracks. So is it possible to use some RTV, form a gasket, or JB weld or something else to patch these cracks?
Are the sliding rear windows more prone to cracking? If so I'll probably replace the assembly with a solid rear window. Where I should purchase a replacement window?
It's been a long time since I have posted here mainly because my truck was wearing a bow tie for awhile. But my wife was nice enough to tell me the Bow Tie wearing truck was making a funny noise on New Years Day (seems a small drum corps took up residence in the oil pan). So anyhow now I am back in a real truck . My new to me 1998 F150 5.4 Liter ran fine until yesterday. It started idling rough and almost stalling at red lights. about halfway home the CEL light came on and is throwing a P0171 code.
So far I have checked for vacuum leaks including all the elbows on the PCV system' tried the spray test with a can of flammable break fluid and a can of starting fluid (man I love the smell of that stuff) could not find a leak. Cleaned the MAF sensor and the K&N air filter (not a fan of these) IAC seems to be working. Only thing I know that is leaking for sure is the driver side exhaust after the cat. But that is the wrong bank if I am correct on which bank is which.
So why only one bank running lean and why does it act like it is only firing on 4 cylinders?
So I just bought a used 2007 ES 350. One week into ownership the check engine light, vehicle stability light (car with swerving tire tracks) and check vsc lights all come on.
I got the codes read and they are C1201 P0057 and P0161.
The last two I believe are oxygen sensors and the first is a vague engine control problem?
The lights come on for a few days, then go away for a few days.
The non-Lexus dealer who sold me the car sent me to a mechanic who says the lights will likely go away all together if we just replace the correct O2 sensors.
The car also vibrates when moderately applying the brakes at speeds higher than 60 mph- is that normal?
My wife's 97 f150 4x4 had an exhaust leak on the passenger side. 7 out of the 8 bolts holding the manifold on are snapped off. 4 of them are snapped off 1/8" below the top of the hole on the cylinder head . I am I unable to get a drill in to drill these out. The other 3 I've tried welding a nut on these but they won't budge and I wring the nuts off. If I have to pull the head(something I don't want to do)can I just pull that 1 head or do I have to tear the intake and everything off?
View 1 RepliesI recently rebuilt a 97 Subaru Outback Legacy, and everything was fine however, whenever I've taken it on the highway, I began noticing a distinct odor of burnt oil. Last night I got home and I actually began seeing smoke. Upon closer inspection, I noticed that oil was running down the differential, dripping onto the power steering and then onto the exhaust. When I looked at the flywheel it had no oil on it so I'm assuming it's not engine oil, however the oil that is dripping looks like engine oil (Im using mobile 1 full synthetic). The fluid levels are all ok, transmission levels ok, engine oil is a little more than full( I added 1 gallon before starting it up for the first time) and there is differential oil, but I know the smell of differential oil, and the oil that was dripping down the differential was not differential oil.
View 3 RepliesMy 03 explorer leaks water from the dome light and from the mounting bracket for the sunvisor on drivers side when we have a heavy rain. I have had back to the dealer 4 times. They have resealed luggage racks twice and cleaned drain holes for sunroof twice. The body shop manager has told me he has fixed hundreds of these and he has also told me that all sunroofs leak. The most recent visit I was told not to park on an incline. If I knew that this vehicle could only be driven when the sun was out , I would have never bought it.
View 11 RepliesLeaking exhaust manifold? The truck has a much louder than normal "knock" when accelerating. At first I thought and had some bad fuel in the tank. I eliminated that with a full take of good fuel and some STP but the "knocking" continued. Then I thought that perhaps it wasn't firing on all cylinders but it felt like it had full power. I took it to my mechanic and he said it as a exhaust manifold leak. He said that he has never replaced the exhaust manifold but that it was a "nightmare" and expensive. He also said that it's not a safety issue but on the long run the leak would cause the truck not to pass its emission test. He said the problem was with rusted bolts that would be difficult to remove.
View 12 RepliesI had a fuel starvation problem because Ford painted the inside of the fuel tank and the paint was coming off and clogging the filters and because I foolishly drove it I now have white smoke spewing out of the tail pipe and an engine miss.
I also explained that I thought that the white smoke did not smell sweet like antifreeze, but rather like diesel. (Hoping that a head gasket replacement is not required.)
I am in the middle of doing the Hutch Mod with frame-mounted Racor PS120-2 jar-type screen pre-pump filter and shortening my previous Harpoon Mod and paint stripping and powerwashing the inside of my tank. Next I plan to move on toward the engine issue.
This evening I was under the van with a flashlight and I noticed that there was a black liquid of some sort at the driver's side exhaust manifold where it joins the up-pipe. At first I was afraid to touch it fearing that it would be carbon-sooted water, but it felt and tasted like carbon-sooted diesel.
And since I haven't started the engine in two weeks and it has been routinely near or over 100F in Sacramento, water would have likely evaporated days ago.
Does it make sense if the fuel starvation problem caused an injector nozzle or its cup to crack or to stick open or to otherwise spew unburnt fuel into the exhaust manifold which would cause the white smoke? Obviously, the unburnt fuel must get from the affected cylinder(s) to the tail pipe somehow, which likely means out the exhaust valve, through the exhaust manifold to the up-pipe and through the turbo to the exhaust pipe and finally to the tail pipe.
See pictures at my CP. I can't figure out how to attach them or put them inline here because it still says I can't do attachments.
What is my next move? Remove the driver's side valve cover? If so, what should I look for, etc.?
2002 E350 extended body van 7.3 diesel auto trans converted to 4x4 (bought new)
One thing you hate to hear when you go to a mechanic's is "that's a common problem" and "there's no permanent fix for it." Since we moved to a shady street, my car is leaking dirty water on the inside passenger side from under the dash, especially when I make a left turn. It really can start to smell bad and I now keep a bucket under the dash and have to leave the window cracked despite the daily rain in Tampa. Twice I have had the lines blown out, but I was told the problem would come back and to really clean it out and that the problem would come back anyway after that. According to my mechanic, the problem stems from the leaves getting inside the engine and clogging up some line. And to everyone else, don't buy a Mitsubishi Outlander.
View 2 RepliesI am changing the passenfer side exhaust manifold on my '00 150. The bolts all came out fairly easy, sprayed them often in PB over the last 2 days, my problem is the 2nd and 3rd nuts on the bottom are under the motor mount. Do I need to remove that or is there an easier way that I'm missing.
View 11 RepliesSo I think I have possible manifold leak in my exhaust and its because when the engine is super cold, and I do have a straight pipe, but it sounds like a tractor... until it warms up after few minutes, it goes away.
My exhaust manifolds are rusted to crap and stuff is falling off, paint or whatever there was on them.
Now I've looked at bunch of videos on UT to get a better understanding since everyone says the nuts and studs are hard to remove or snap.
Now my question to anyone who's done this in their garage; I've seen bunch of videos where the stud snaps flush, then he takes a nut, puts it over the hole, holds it up with needle pliers and uses a MIG to start welding it... stud to nut... then puts a wrench and off it goes.
Now, I'm not a pro welder or anything so is it possible to by accident weld the stud, nut into the head and then never ever be able to undo or take either one out?? or is the head or whatever made from different material that won't get welded to the nut or the stud??
I have a 2003 F150 supercrew 4x4 and I'm on my 3rd - 4wd vacuum actuator this winter so far. Somehow water is getting into the actuator itself mounted on the axle and then when it gets cold enough it freezes up and won't work until the heat from the engine thaws it out and then the 4x4 will engage.
Every time I've changed it I have found the part to have about a quarter cup of water in it. and can't figure out where the water may be entering these things. There also was no moisture in the vacuum lines when I blew them out.
I've been using the Dorman brand replacements from O'Reilly, they have a lifetime quarantee but I'm sick of swapping them out every month...
1997 F150... Truck has slowly started getting worse and worse performance. About 3 weeks ago the truck started rattling from the exhaust, Towing my trailer the other day, the truck had NO power, I thought it was the plugs, so I replaced them.
Now the rattle is worse (no lose heat shields). I am blowing the little tubes off the drivers side exhaust manifold, the ones that go to the DPFE sensor.
Did I mention, that the truck has no power, sluggish, now I am dumping hot exhaust fumes into the engine compartment. Still got the rattle underneath.
I think the cat is plugged up on the drivers side. (which probably explains all my symptoms)
Any other reason for the rattle literally coming from the drivers side cat and the little tubes being blown off?
I've got an '02 F150 with a 5.4L Triton. Despite being 10 yrs. old it's just passed the dealer warranty mileage about 80,000 miles. Due to a family situation it's been sitting idle for upwards of 2 or 3 weeks between startups.
When I do startup there's a puff of blue/geyish smoke, the engine idles rough for about 30 secs. and then everything smooths out and she runs normal.
I haven't noticed this issue before, I would add the temps here have been extremely cold the last few weeks. What direction do I point a mechanic in so he doesn't waste time or money on a diagnostic.
My truck over heated and I now have a looks like a pin hole leak next to the front injector on the left side looking at it. I have used sealers and it does not work. Water pools around the injector. Does this sound like a cracked intake housing? I have done many repairs but this is something I'm not sure I want to do. I can get a new intake setup for 160.00 on rock auto but ford would be in the 300 or more just for the part.
View 6 Replies1997 f-150, 4.6, 147K miles. This morning I started the truck and the engine light was on. Felt a miss in the engine. Drove 1 mile and back then checked the wires. Found one not firing. Traced it back to the plug. When I pulled the plug boot off I noticed water in the recess, surrounding the plug. Once I blow out the water, I'll checjk the plug but I would like to know if this is a natural occurrence. I thought the boot would prevent water from filling the recess and sitting there. Or does the water just evaporate when the engine gets hot?
View 14 Replies