I have a 1997 F-150 4.6. I have a cel and a heavy pinging that seems to get better the colder the outside temp is. If I unhook battery , the rehook the cel is gone for a day or so and the pinging is much less, but in a day or so it comes back on and condition worsens.
View 1 RepliesMy wife's brother has a '97 F150 w/4.6L/automatic trans/4x4-OFF ROAD package. It's a standard cab, short bed (fleetside) truck.
It has 126k miles and he is METICULOUS about routine/periodic maintenance. He's owned it since new, has changed the plugs twice.
Is this a common issue with the '97 4.6L? He says he has tried using premium fuel to determine if it makes a difference. He said it worked but it still pings, just not as bad.
I just picked up a 1999 F150 5.4 with around 19k miles on it. Truck is in mint condition, stored in a heated garage since new. Before we made the deal I checked everything out pretty well including checking all the fluids, test drive, other usual stuff and didn't notice anything out of the ordinary. However, today I went for a short ride with the windows down I noticed a random pinging noise from under the truck. At first I thought it was a few small rocks bouncing off something metal under the truck, however it continued to do it randomly for the next 5 minutes. I would say I hear a ping every 15-20 seconds randomly. Doesn't matter if it's idling or under load, happens about the same either way. Aside from this, truck starts and rungs great and no error or warning lights have kicked on.
When I got home I started the truck back up and climbed under to see what it was. I found that the noise is coming from the exhaust system, mostly heard at the catalytic convertor. It resembles the metal expanding kind of ping, but I think its actually originating at the engine and the noise is just carrying through the exhaust system. I then went back to the engine bay and could hear the same random ping, just much quieter. I don't know the condition of the fuel, but based on the low miles I haven't ruled out a bad tank of gas. Only other issue with the truck is there is a bit of rust and corrosion on the inside of the exhaust tips and up into the exhaust pipe. They are still shiny and silver on the outside, just a little rust buildup on the interior of the exhaust. Hoping it's just the last 1' or so that is rusted
Had it before, code p1401. Changed out dpfe and it worked for 6 months. Now spark knock again. Now though I have no codes though. No vacuum leaks that I can find. New egr from before I had the problem. I applied vacuum to the green hose and it stumbled so the ports should be ok. Snytime I go above 3000 rpm i get the pinging. I replaced the dpfe again and no difference.
View 3 RepliesI've had this problem for a little while now, my 97' F150 V8 4.6L, has been running real loud and heavy. When it starts up it sounds like a race car. It finally shot me a code for P0171 - Bank 1 (passenger side) running too lean. From what I've read, this is most likely a vacuum leak but I don't know too much about it.
A couple of things I've noticed while driving it around:
1. If you are in the engine compartment while its running, you smell the excess gas on the passenger side of the truck.
2. The exhaust also smells really heavy
3. The loud and heavy running is mainly when accelerating, if I maintain a constant speed at for a little while it almost starts to run normal. Cruising down the highway its almost just as quiet as before the issue
4. Engine coolant heats up much more quickly, but doesn't get above operating temperature (read from tuner, never above 200 degrees)
In response to the problem I replaced both the O2 sensors closest to the engine and the PCV and elbow. No change. Have a fuel filter ready to install, but for some reason I don't think that is it either, as it would probably effect both bank 1 and 2.
Like I said I'm not too well versed in the vacuum system but if any of these symptoms stand out I'd love to hear your thoughts.
2003 F150 XLT 7700 4x4 5.4 Triton. While accelerating normally from a stop the transmission? shifts into 2nd with a heavy jerk. All other gears normal. It doesn't do this under hard acceleration or under very gentle and slow throttle application. Is this a COP issue, a transmission issue or just a driving style thing?
View 7 RepliesI have been getting some knocking the under most any loads . I do not have any codes. I tried premium gas and that did not make any difference. If this is not fixed what issues can this cause? What should I look for do get this fixed?
View 14 RepliesMy 2003 Ranger 2.3L When I purchased it in 2005 I never noticed this tapping noise until in 2007 when Tennessee forced 10% Ethanol added to fuel. That is when the noise started.
What this could be. I have since moved to Texas and found a station that sells Ethanol Free gas, but that does not remove the noise.
Was climbing a steep hill at 35 mph just before truck down shifted to 2nd, I was hearing a pinging sound. Sounded like only I cylinder was doing so. What it could be. I am currently running a 1/4 tank of Fppf fuel injector cleaner. Is this a injector noise. No knocking just a slight pinging.
View 1 RepliesI drove a '97 with the 5.0 and AWD. I noticed that when I turned around in the neighborhood, the steering started to feel a little heavy during a U-turn. I was pretty close to full steering input to the left, but not quite at the lock. Also, it seemed like the tires might be scrubbing the pavement a little bit. No real binding or hopping, just that feel you get when you have the transfer case locked in your old-school 4X4 and make sharps turns. Is this typical for the AWD?
View 7 RepliesI have a very annoying problem with my new (to me) 2003 Passat, when warm it tends to ping under what i would consider normal load, it's more apparent after it changes gear (auto) and also if you are traveling down the road you give the gas an extra tickle.
It soon shuts up but pinging is not a good thing any time. The car has 45000 miles so is barely broken in.... It also suffers from what i consider to be a lazy transmission which tends to make it a little worse.
I am using the recommended super grade of fuel and have tried different fuels to see if it is biased.
I have a 2003 f 350 6.0, when under a heavy laod such as towing a 3000-pound trailer up a long hill at approx 60mph and 2000 rpm it intermittently mis fires.The boost gauge bounces up and down and i here a poping sound from the engine compartment.I have had it to several dealer and independent shops but with out the trailer or a heavy load it runs perfectly.They have told me fuel pressure is good and changed all fuel filters with OEM parts.
View 3 RepliesEvery once in a while in heavy traffic the engine overheats. I can't get out to check on the highway bit I suspect a an isn't on. I can drop the temp in the usual way of blasting the heat but I can also drop it precipitously by turning on the AC! It seems to stay down even if I turn the AC off - at least for a while. The radiator is new and it has plenty of fluid.
View 2 RepliesI've got a 2002 F350 DRW 7.3 truck I'm having a little concern over. It started this summer, when under very heavy pulling I was getting a very noticeable vibration between 20 and 25 mph. I did not think much of it, as it only happened under extreme conditions.
Now I'm getting the vibration all the time, and it's started another band which is 40 to 45 mph. It's much worse if you are very light on the throttle, if you're full throttle it's much harder to notice.
Truck has 154,000 miles.
I have a 97 Chevy Malibu V6 3.1L with 92k miles on it, a couple weeks ago i started getting a misfire issue. The car would start to misfire when under heavy load such as accelerating up a hill. The local auto parts store diagnosed it with code P0302(cylinder #2 misfire). I started by replacing all of my spark plugs(ACDelco Platnum) and wires. This seemed to fix the issue for a day or so, after that the misfire worsened. I would misfire at random times and when under heavy loads. This caused my transmission to keep shifting up and down followed by the all to familiar hot/melted plastic smell of overheated transmission fluid. This continued on for a few days as it got worse.
The car than started to misfire heavily all the time. I took the car to another auto store and it pulled up codes for Random/multiple misfire. I then took my car to a mechanic for a full diagnostic, their computer said their was a misfire on cylinder #1, as-well as a bad spark plug wire on #1( He found this by getting shocked while wiggling the wires on the coil pack) and told me to replace the bad wire. I replaced all wires again and the problem remained. i took it back up for re-diagnosis and they then said it was a bad coil pack. I replaced the coil packs and the problem still remains.
Here's the deal. 99 Powerstroke out new injectors and orings. Did orings twice to make sure i didn't damage it. New turbo, new utvc gasket, new ipr, new fuel pump, I new complete engine wire harness. I pulled the injectors and ran in another truck no problem. New injector cups compression was all in the 300-375 range. Any cold start smokes like hell. Goes away when driving after the first time of hitting boost. Spits and shudders for a few seconds until boosting. Every time I stop it starts smoking again at idle. No power loss not using oil. Can't get a grasp on this smoking issue. When cold start I kill millions of mosquitos in a one-mile radius.
View 3 Replies2002 F350 7.3, MANUAL transmission ZF6.
Bought this truck used for hauling an excavator, and after fixing damn-near everything engine/turbo/and-cooling-system-related ---- it's finally seeing some use.
Just recently started hauling 12,000lb payloads. When I accelerate hard in Low gear, and then shift into 1st and accelerate hard again, I feel the whole truck shuddering. It's like a shimmy-shaking vibration all through the vehicle.
It doesn't happen in higher gears, only when the following conditions are met...
1) Starting from a dead stop
2) 12,000lb payload (heavy)
3) Accelerating hard (Low, First gear)
I would also like to add that I experienced this shuddering vibration very intensely when I put the transfer case in 4wd LOW (front manual hubs left unlocked) and towed 14,000lb up a steep hill in 1st, 2nd, and then 3rd transmission gears.
^^^ By leaving front hubs unlocked and transfer case in 4wd LOW, I was effectively lowering my final drive ratio even more for extra pulling power in 2wd hill-climbing. I don't do this often, only when absolutely necessary. ^^^
I must also add that I do have slightly taller rims/tires than OEM ford WITH the original ford gearing (3.73) so I'm more like 3.51 final drive ratio.
02 F350 7.3l ZF6
My late 99 has 161K, I am the 2nd owner and bought from the Original owner. It is stock with no tunes. Auto/4wd.
It has had an intermittent idle knock and recently has gotten much louder recently when used heavily with towing for summer camping in the 7K range up steep hills. The knocking goes away above 12-1500 rpm. There is no noise when the engine is cold. It seems heavily temp/load/heavy use dependent. If driven lightly, the knock is quieter but still present. The trans was recently rebuilt and new billet converter installed, made no difference so it's not that it would appear.
I rec'd blackstone last week and the results are excellent. Running the cyl contribution test while hot in drive at idle reveals cyl 8 is running 4.9 to 5.4 Perdels. #3 is 2.2 to 2.8. 1,6,7 are 0. 2 is .6 and 5 is .4.... I haven't checked bolt torque yet. My question: Is #8 "fixable" potentially with bolt torque? Is it considered too far gone and should just be replaced?
I have had a 2000 f250 crew cab for little over a year now. Two previous times, after heavy rains, the cabin light would blink on and i would get a buzzing sound under the dash. I would solve the annoying buzzing sound by opening and closing the door. After a few times, it would work, but my clock and radio could go on without the key in the on position. The next time i used it, no problems... so i put that worry in the back of my mind.
This morning it rained really heavy, sideways type of rain. I opened the door and noticed a small puddle on the vinyl floors right where my left foot goes. OH,oh i thought, but the truck turned over and ran like normal. I picked up a heavy load of hickory in the bed and hopped back in and noticed my speedometer jumping from 0- 30 when I was going about 35. The OD light was blinking, but the transmission shifted normally. I got up to about 1700 rpm and the speedo was barely jumping at 53-55. I make another stop to unload the wood and go back home and i get an intermittent buzzing sound on the way home and no speedo. OD light would start blinking before i hit 2nd gear. I also noticed the odometer not working (speedo related, right?)
I got home and took the fuse relay cover off and found that if I would remove the #1 relay "plug" (black square box 5 prongs) that dreaded buzzing sound would go away, checked it out , plugged it back in, buzzing back on. The clock light still stays on and radio will turn on without the key. I think that water obviously leaked in over something electrical and i have been searching this and other forms for a couple of hours. I am within a couple of weeks of saving up enough to buy the gauges, exhaust and possible DP Tuner and now this happens?
Ok, my clutch has been giving me trouble for a little bit and I'm almost positive that I have a bent release fork. It also slips under heavy acceleration in 6th gear. I am planning on doing a clutch, compete with flywheel and release fork and a new rear main seal. My problem is, here within the last couple of days the trans would pop out of 4th gear if I was just coasting. It has been getting noisy over the last few weeks also. I'm no manual tyranny expert, but this is making me think I'm gonna need to have it rebuilt.
View 14 RepliesLoss of coolant! I have a 2003 6.0 diesel with 200,000 miles. I put in a new oil cooler and ipr egr delete two years ago also flush the system and added a coolant filter. I filed it back up with the red antifreeze. Now the problem I have never lost any coolant since then and my deltas are about 5 degrees. But the other day I pulled a heavy load the first one since I did the repairs (coolant got up to 220 degrees and would drop back down) when I got home the coolant tank was about a inch low. I let the truck sit about 3 hours and checked it again and it was back at the full mark. Drove it the next day and it's back low about a inch, Any clue what's going on.
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