I was coasting down a steep hill yesterday when the CEL came on. I pulled the code this morning and got code P0174, system too lean bank 2.
I cleared the code. Should I just wait to see if it happens again? The truck is running great. There is no sign of a problem. BTW, it's 99 F150 5.4.
I have 2003 f250 7.3 automatic 181,000 miles completely stock. Never had chip,tuner or anything on it. I am second owner and got it when it had 70,000 miles on it. Ok here we go I live on top of a mountain and soon as i start up the mountain or any steep hill, or pull or tow something my service engine light pops on. First time it came on I took it to diesel shop they hooked it up to scanner and said it was code p1211 said icp sensor was bad so they put new one on. Couple days later light started popping back on so i decided to order a auto ingenuity after doing some research.
Hooked up to truck started up mountain while scanning at wot light pops on code p1211 and think it was live data I remember seeing icp pressure at 1922 and duty cycle at 63% i was trying to drive and read it at same time and my lap top went dead. What does this reading mean 1922 pressure/ at 63% cycle done little research but dont really understand. Year and half ago replaced all orings on all injectors, new rebuilt hpop pump. New ipr valve, glow plugs, past month 2 different icp sensor new,and new ipr valve new pig tails on both and light still popping on.
97 F150 4.6 200xxx on recent rebuild. My truck is throwing P0171 & P0174.
I think I tracked it down to leaky IAC and EGR gasket. I sprayed both with carb cleaner and the RPM's dropped.
My question is, wouldn't the RPM's rise instead of drop? I was under the impression that they would go up if the gaskets were leaking. Or did I use the wrong spray?
I had my fuel system cleaned by the dealership last weekend and I feel like I gained 50hp+ ... Now its throwing a P0171 about a week and a half later. My computer also listed P0174 under the pending codes or whatever the section was.
2003 F150 5.4L ... I cleaned the MAF sensor a couple weeks back which stopped a rough idle and I have put some 300+ miles on it since. about 200 miles since the fuel system cleaning.
I got home and popped the hood and it sounded like a vacuum cleaner. Guess it is a vacuum leak. I might need to stop using this ford house. I swear this is the second time there was a vacuum leak(I think, first time they said it was spark gap issue). I'll be heading back in the morning now.
So the past few weeks my truck has been sputtering a lot. It seems to do it more so in low RPMS but when I lay on the throttle I didn't really notice it. I haven't had time to look into the issue but yesterday the issue got drastically worse and the CEL finally came on. Registered P0174 as well as a number of other codes including misfires on 7 of the 8 cylinders.
So far I have replaced the fuel filter. Spark plugs are only a few months old. I didnt think it would make sense for all of the coil packs to go out at once so I was thinking either a fuel issue or vacuum leak. Why would it only spit out P0174 (Banks 2) and not show P0171 (Banks 1) along with it? Fuel pump? Vacuum leak? Where should I start? 2002 F150 5.4L...
I have a 1999 F-150 with the 4.2L engine. I recently did a motor swap as the original motor was bad. I bought this truck as a project truck and have enjoyed working on it.
When I did the engine swap back in May of this year, it took a while to work out all the little bugs and quirps. However, after a while of running the truck it threw a few codes. I replaced a lot of the emission components and no more codes for several months until last month the truck started throwing the infamous P0174 "too lean bank two"... I have replaced the pcv valve and all the hoses to include the little rubber boot under the front of the intake, all 4 O2 sensors, MAF sensor, EGR, DPFE, IAC valve, new wires and plugs to include coil pack, fuel pressure regulator, and all the vacuum lines that are under the hood.
The truck runs fine, has power, but about every couple weeks or so it throws this P0174 code. I know there are alot of threads on here about this problem and I have read many of them. It only throws the P0174 and not the P0171. I am wondering if there could be a problem specific to "bank 2" that I am over looking.
I have a 2001 F150 XLT Supercab,4.2lt, automatic, 2WD.
I was able to start it about a month or so ago but it was really hard to start. I had to use starting fluid to get it started, and it was still tough to get it to start, but once started and warmed up it ran fine.
Now I tried to start it again and it kicks over and wont start. I tried the same with the starting fluid and it almost starts and dies. I think I used a little too much starting fluid because after a while of trying and spraying starting fluid, I got a hard backfire that sounded like a shotgun that was strong enough to pop off the MAF Sensor and throw it about 10 feet. I nearly crapped my pants! It looks clean and undamaged but I hope I didn't damage the MAF Sensor when if hit the ground.
The truck sounds like its starving for fuel, so I'm not sure if the fuel pump relay is going or has gone bad, or if its the fuel pump. How to check these items without making it a huge project to diagnose?
Once I can get it to start easily, I have a couple of questions about the trouble code that keeps coming back P0174. That was the original problem with it before the starting problem.The diagnostic says that it is lean in bank 2 but a mechanic friend of mine said something about a vacuum leak.
P0306 (ok #6 missfire) with P0171 & P0174 --- Do I chase electrical or fuel or both. Afraid to assume anything but probably would normally address the misfire electrical first.... Don't want to go down that 'primrose path' if others have been there first!
View 4 RepliesI have a 2003 Ford Explorer with around 93,000 miles on it. I got the oil changed just before going on a long trip. It had been about 4,000 miles since the last oil change. My trip was about 3.5 hours in each direction with mostly highway driving where I was cruising at around 65-70 MPH but some long steep hills mixed in as well. On the way to my destination after cresting over one of these long steep hills, and going about 60 MPH while heading up the hill, white smoke started billowing out of the exhaust every time I hit the gas pedal.
I pulled over and white smoke was creeping off the muffler as well. I'm not very mechanically inclined, but opened up the hood anyways, and no smoke or anything in there. I let the car sit for about 5 minutes until the smoke stopped creeping off the muffler then drove the rest of the 30 minutes or so to my destination with no more problems.
On the return trip, the same thing happened (different hill) with about the same timeline. I was about 30 minutes out from home, had just crested over a long steep hill going around 60 MPH and the white smoke started coming out again every time I hit the gas. Pulled over again, waited for the smoke to dissipate and for no more to be coming off the muffler and finished my drive home with no problems.
I've only owned the car for about 6 months. I haven't encountered anything like this up to this point. And in the month or so driving it since the trip and incident, I have not seen any white smoke . There are no warning lights on, the temperature gauge looks completely normal. From what I have read online it seems like coolant would be causing this white smoke, but I can't figure out why it only happened on these two occasions. What is going on or what I should do?
Here is my situation : I have a F150 1999 4x4 ext cab with 326 000 km. A little while ago I got a P0401 code so I decide to clean the TB first and at the same time change plugs and wires since they were overdue. The same code came back and a misfire. Ordered EGR valve, DPFE sensor and selenoid. Realize that I had ordered crappy plugs by mistake. I change all plugs. Had to wait for the EGR valve and others to arrive. I drove the truck for a while since I did not have the time to change the valve and others, during that time the misfire did not come back. Yesterday I change the EGR and others. Today I get a truck that runs really rough and got new codes , P0305 and P0174. I'm really confused now on what should be my next step, should I change the coils, can a P0305 cause a P0174. Should I change vacuum hose going to the EGR , selenoid and DPFE.
View 12 RepliesWas climbing a steep hill at 35 mph just before truck down shifted to 2nd, I was hearing a pinging sound. Sounded like only I cylinder was doing so. What it could be. I am currently running a 1/4 tank of Fppf fuel injector cleaner. Is this a injector noise. No knocking just a slight pinging.
View 1 RepliesMy 2003 Nissan Sentra was doing fine a few days ago until I started up a very steep hill and went into 1st gear. There was a burning smell for about 2 blocks so I shifted to 2nd gear. The smell went away. When I was in 1st gear it did not sound or feel like I was trying to go too fast for the gear. I just smelled the burning. Same hill in 2nd, no smell. How much should I worry?
View 2 RepliesI have an E-350 with auto trans and 460 engine. I am away from home and hope to make it back where I have tools to do the major work. I drove up a very steep hill and the trans fluid leaked at the steep part, but only when pointed uphill. I did it a 2nd time and it only leaked at the steep part (I was not aware of this the first time or I would not have done it again). Fluid was dripping out pretty good at the bell of trans. No leaks when in drive or R when engine running and level.
I added fluid and tried to back uphill to get van out of this place and it worked fine for a min, but now just rolls downhill. My question is can I just add fluid and get home? What the leak is? How long I can drive it, or if it will leak too much? When I get home (150 miles) I can do any repair needed, Im just trying to get home now.
I know we will be guessing a lot. Van is a 1995 Ford Cube Van, formerly a Ryder moving van. E-350 with the 460 engine, and 3 speed OD trans. I don't know any more detail on the trans. It should be heavy duty given it was a moving van. Van is probably 10-12,000lbs.
Ok...not sure were to go with this or how to explain it, while climbing a steep paved hill at 5-10 mph I get a rumbling vibration and noise. If I were to guess almost like axle wrap is causing the U Joints to bind or something. Runs and drives fine other then that. If I put it in 4x4 it does not happen, only seems to happen when wheels cant slip while climbing hills at LOW speed.
Don't notice it if climbing a dirt hill. There is a hill at the kids baseball fields that is steep and paved that its really bad on, way to busy right now to play on it to see what's happening. Tranny was looked at and oil changed.
New BDS 4" lift - had same issue prior to lift, though stock springs were worn.
Searched the form but really didn't come up with anything at this low of speed. While in Wisconsin the resort we were at the paved hills were so steep it felt like something was going to break. Put it in 4x4 and it was fine. This was with stock leafs.
I have a 2006 f-250 super duty with a 6.0 and auto trans. I was pulling a trailer with about 5k of vehicle on the trailer.
Problem : after a long trip on good roads, I had to pull a steep hill. climbing the hill i did not shift into tow mode and all of a sudden my engine raced up to about 3k rpms and seemed to either shift to low or ( maybe ?) the Governor may engaged ?
Anyway I made it to the top of the grade and it seemed to be fine from there.
Question Is the trans broken, or did the computer maybe try to protect the trans ? It seems to work fine still?
Every time I go up or down a steep hill (usually about 30mph) I can smell something burning when I get out of the car. Going down hill, I figure breaks. Going uphill when I never touch the brakes, not so sure. Also, it's too early to tell but after my 5,000 mile oil change ($56.85 BTW) I seem to getting about 1 mpg better.
View 12 RepliesI recently drove my 2004 Prius up some steep hills in the Smoky mountains. The next morning while driving to work, my dashboard lit up like a Christmas tree, with multiple idiot lights suddenly on simultaneously (none of them informative).
I turned around and drove to the nearest Toyota service center. They informed me that the timing belt was cracked, the HV computer was bad, and the PCV valve as dirty and needed replacing. I think the hills were too much for the car. I will never take the car into the mountains again.
I have a 2012 Nissan Versa with a 1.6 Engine/CVT transmission. When going down a steep hill the RPMs rev up to at least 3000 or more...is this normal for a car to do this?
View 3 RepliesMy TDI has slow acceleration, just curious if that was common. How do u check turbo. I can still hear it. its now very loud though. Its especially slow when going up a steep hill. anyway to make that faster???
View 24 RepliesI've noticed that my 2012 Passat TDI heats up a bit when going over a steep hill or mountain pass. When driving up steep hills I notice that the temp gauge climbs from the dummy position 190* to about 200*. Once I crest the hill the temp will go down and it won't go up again unless I go up another hill. Is this normal? I had assumed that the temp gauge was a dummy gauge like in most cars so seeing the temp actually climb has me concerned.
View 4 Replies2001 F150 5.4L Triton Motor. Everything seemed o.k. then got the Engine Service Light. Checked with reader and above codes only appeared. Read numerous articles/videos and pulled the PCV hose/boot assembly and replaced the whole thing with oem part. Visually checked for disconnected tubing = none found. After this and with the new hose assembly in place I performed a reset. With the scanner still connected restarted engine and read values: ST FTRM1&2 = -.08~+2.3, both oxygen sensor voltages are varying and the LT FTRM1&2 hang around +26 and +28.
From what I understand the ST seems o.k. but the long term is WAY OUT OF WHACK. Started it up again and took carb cleaner spray and covered all the connections I could see = no change in engine rpm. No cracks in the air cleaner body. Big plug to the MAF was inserted and plugging the hole. I am thinking of making a smoke "machine" and trying that or removing the hoses from the throttle body and plugging the holes in the throttle body and see if that clears them up. IF it does then connect one by one and keep checking the values. Lot more work but I am at a loss.