Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Bucking And Binding While Backing Up
Oct 5, 2013
I have an 02 F150 super cab Fx4 with a 5.4 engine. Earlier this week my wife pulled up to a stop light and the truck began to buck and jerk while moving. She pulled over and we had it towed back to the house. I pulled into the garage and something felt off, my first thought was rear diff clutches(the truck has 92k). I backed it straight out of the garage the next morning and it was popping and binding while backing up, it would move a little then act like it was up against a curb, then hit the gas, it would pop and move a little more. I popped the rear cover off the diff and the fluid was clean, and I did not see any metal shavings in it. Next I removed the rear brake disc to check if the parking brake shoes grenaded, they are fine.
Right now I have the rear end on jackstands, I put the tranny in neutral and turned the driveshaft by hand in front of the diff. It will turn in one direction and then not go back the other way. Not to sound ignorant, but is that normal operation of the traction lock diff? Next thing, while turning the driveshaft by hand, there is a clicking noise coming from the transfer case area. I slid underneath and could hear it coming from the case. Is this noise normal? I have no other truck around here to compare too. I have used the search function here at the forum, I am just not finding my particular issue. The truck was not in 4wd when this happened either.
View 7 Replies
Advertisement
I have a 2015 F350 6.7 DRW King Ranch with approx 12800 miles on it and have recently developed driveline noise which sounds like the rear axle is binding when backing up to the right. The truck has the 3.73 limited slip differential. Not sure what could be causing this. The front hubs are in "Auto" and the truck is not in 4-wheel drive. I don't notice the noise when moving forward, only when backing up to the right or left. Never noticed the noise when backing in a straight line. For whatever reason, when backing up to the left, the binding noise is not as prominent as when backing up to the right. Binding noise is most noticeable when front wheels are turned hard to the right.
View 14 Replies
When either of my front wheels drop during articulation they seem to bind up. the shop says nothing is wrong, but i beg to differ, b cuz when i jack the truck up enough to get a front wheel of the ground i can only turn it about 3 inches before it locks up. what is going on!
View 14 Replies
I have a 2004 Santa Fe GLS 3.5L AWD. Months ago I occasionally started noticing a strange sensation when backing up like the wheels were binding. Since it was intermittent I really didn't think too much about it and I don't drive the SF much except during bad weather or on vacation trips. The issue has gotten much worse and happens every time I drive it. This past week it bound up while turning into a tight parking place.
It binds to the point that the vehicle will just stop under normal acceleration. Backing up it does the same thing. When I finally got pulled into the parking place it felt like someone bumped me (I don't remember if this was before or after placing in park). I also feel it when taking very tight switchbacks in the mountains.
So doing research on this I came across the TSB about the Transfer Case Control Module, however after visually inspecting my module I determined it was made in May 2004 so it does not apply to the TSB.
Is it possible my module just went bad? So I am wondering what I should try? Replace the module with a used one (if I can find one) or foot the $300+ bill for a new one. Either way does anything need to be done to program it?
View 11 Replies
My 2001 f150 4x4 with a 4r70w start slaming hard. Once at speed in overdrive it ran fine. Then driving around 25 it would be fine for a minute or so then I could feel it binding up then a hard slam. Then it would drive fine for a minute and do it again. Mechanical? Electronic? Torque converter?
View 14 Replies
My 1999 f150 is having issues of bucking while going down the road and it only happen on a hot day. It's like someone is turning the key off then back on.It's only for a split second. I'm having trouble determining if this truck has the fpdm or not. and if this may be the issue. Fuel Pump Driver Module ?
View 8 Replies
I have 2002 4.2L F150 w/ Manual Transmission. The problem I have started about a week ago. I noticed it started to idle very rough and at times felt like it would almost stall if i didn't keep giving it some gas. Then a few days later it started to jerk/and buck intermittently while accelerating. I changed out the plugs and wires. My coil pack was replaced a year ago but was still under warranty so i installed a new one just in case. I cleaned and inspected the EGR valve and replaced the TPS. The rough idling seems to have cleared up but the jerking/and bucking still remains.
When the engine is cold the truck runs fine, and then as the engine starts to warm up it will jerk and buck while accelerating at any speed. Once the engine has reached its optimal temperature the jerking/bucking goes away and it runs smooth as silk. I can drive it for for a few hours with no issues whatsoever. As soon as the engine cools, the cycle starts all over again. I figured maybe the intake gaskets were on their last legs and when they heat up they seal tighter causing the engine to smooth out.
So I replaced the upper and lower plenum gaskets today and cleaned everything up. It still did not fix the problem.
View 2 Replies
I replaced the driver's side e-brake cable on my 99 F150 due to the cable pulling through the backing plate (I think the backing plate hole either wore or rusted out bigger). The new cable is doing the same thing and now I cannot drive because if you depress the e-brake one time, the cable gets pulled through the hole, then since it won't come back out of the hole, pushes the brake shoe against the drum and, thus, drag. I was thinking of trying to find a C clip to hold the cable out but it's iffy at best.
View 4 Replies
I have a 2000 F150, 94k miles, manual transmission, 2WD
About 6 months ago a slight squeaking sound started when only backing up. Now its progressed to a sort of grinding metal on metal sound with regular driving as well as in reverse. I can hear it the most when its in gear and I take my foot off the gas. I changed the breaks, checked the wheel bearings, did a clutch test, and the u joints look fine. Something weird happened yesterday, while raining out, it didn't make a peep. My drive shaft and u joints have a layer of rust on them...could that be a cause of the noise, and it went away when wet?
View 5 Replies
I have a 98 with the 4.2.The troubles started with popping a little through the exhaust ,bogging down and bucking,rough idle and had the two codes together that deal with having bad intake gaskets don't remember the codes offhand.
I also noticed every plug in the truck was wet and black however it didn't appear oil wet.I have changed the fuel filter,spark plugs,lower intake gaskets,plenum gasket ,injector o rings,checked injector ohms all were 16.5,new EGR gaskets,all bolts are torqued to specs
Now I have a no run condition, it will crank but not run. I heard a pop in the engine one time. I cranked till the battery went dead.I also noticed as I was calling it a day last night the radiator reservoir was empty. I don't know if somehow I got a hydro lock even though I put new intake gaskets in it or i have some other issue like timing or something. I don't know where to look next....
View 6 Replies
I just purchased a 2000 f150 4x4 with a 5.4 automatic... it ran great for a few days and even ran fine on the 100+mile trip home from the previous owners house. All the sudden it shut down on the highway today. I could barely get it started again and when it did start, it ran like hell, bucking and jolting, almost like a really bad misfire. I could also smell trans fluid being heated up, so I let it sit awhile and then it fired right up. It drove for about a half mile and began to act up again. I threw it in second gear to limp it home which it died several times on. Each time I'd let it sit for like 15 minutes with the negative battery cable off. It fires right up after that but the problem quickly returns. Also the overdrive button doesn't work, and the trans control switch fuse (spot 29) blows repeatedly. Also the power door locks do not work.
View 7 Replies
I recently purchased a 2003 Eddie with V8 and AWD. On turns everything was binding making the turn almost impossible to take. The front hubs have been replaced and it now has four new tires. This is a great deal as the Anti-lock sensors in the hubs were throwing a code and the bearings were shot. This made a difference but there is still some binding taking place. This truck is a daily driver so need to know where to go from here. I pulled two fuses that were listed as "4wd v-batt" but this made no difference so I put the fuses back. My mechanics Snap-on modis computer doesn't find any codes at present, so we are confused. Nice vehicle, but this is driving me crazy.
View 13 Replies
My wife’s ’97 RAV4 has 135,000 miles on it. Two days ago it started bucking/hesitating (feels more like bucking, and its worse if you try to give it the gas) at speeds below 25 -30 mph. No loss of speed/power when going uphill. Its worse when the engine is cold.
I cleaned the throttle body with spray cleaner, no change. I added Prestone fuel system cleaner to the gas and have driven 20 miles since then. Very little if any change so far. I always use good gas (Chevron regular) and the car has been well maintained (primarily by me).
Timing belt, seals and both bearings were replaced two years ago. Just about a year ago I changed the plugs, air filter, distributor cap and rotor. The fuel filter has never been changed, and the spark plug wires have never been changed. What I can try next? Where is the fuel filter located? I have the Toyota repair manual. It shows a pic of the filter, but not where its located. I have one ready to install if that could be the problem.
View 12 Replies
I have a 1997 Honda Civic w/ about 150k miles on it. The belt was changed a little under 2 yrs ago. Just started making a high-pitched sound when backing up. Sounds like a note on a flute, and doesn't sound like grinding. It only happens when backing up. As soon as I stop, shift and go forward the sound goes away. Began 2-days ago. I try to find parking spaces where I don't have to back up.
View 6 Replies
I have been having a problem for a while now where my truck will miss/buck at WOT. This only happens at higher RPM's. From a standing start 0-60 it is fine. However when I downshift full throttle from about 50 MPH it initially goes, but then it will miss/buck consistently until I back off the throttle.
I have so far replaced the CPS, re torqued injectors, checked valve cover harnesses and fuel pressure stays in between 64-58 full throttle. No codes show up.
My truck runs great except as I described above. I would think an injector or two are bad, but the truck runs and idles great. My initial guess was that it was a fuel pressure issue, but fuel pressure holds strong. Could it be air in the fuel?
View 2 Replies
If I don't keep her plugged in she starts hard, bucking etc. I'm thinking GP or GP relay but I`m not getting any thrown codes. Talking about *30-*50 outside, when its warm starts normally.
View 14 Replies
I have recently picked up an older F350 2WD 7.3 DRW Lariat. the price was right higher miles but hey it is a 7.3, overall in very good shape.
So the issue at hand is the truck runs great most of the time and puttering around at city speeds you would never know there is any issue;
Get the truck out on the highway set the cruse at 70 to 72 and if you hit a rise in the road or other reason to slightly accelerate the truck chugs and bucks. For lack of a better description it goes chug chug chug, if you accelerate harder to downshift it goes away or if you back off the throttle it goes away. This happens with cruse on or off, a steady foot on the pedal will cause this as well.
I have also noticed that when you let off the throttle the sound the truck makes de-fueling is just very different and "off" sounding . Not sure how to describe it but it sounds funky ... clearly not right when compared to other 7.3 or my 6.0 truck.
What I have done, :
1. Had the truck scanned with an AE and a snap-on scanner both show no codes ran injector tests no contribution errors, not even in # 8.
2. Changed fuel filter
3. Changed Oil and Filters ( tried both full synthetic Rotella and Dino oil looking for a difference )
4. Cleaned out the fuel filter housing just in case.
5. Confirmed injector O-Rings are not leaking
This feels like a fuel issue, my next thought was start looking at fuel pressure under load at speed to see if there was a drop when this is happening ?
Is there a way to test fuel pumps in this truck ? Maybe a clogged pick-up screen ? Where do I start looking next ? I have reasonable mechanical skills but don't know this motor very well, this doesn't seem like a CPS issue..
View 7 Replies
I've been noticing that one of my front hubcaps has been backing off slightly. I tap it back on and it's good for a while. But lately I'm noticing that I have to tap it back on more often. I took it off today, thinking that I might need a new one. The part number on the inside is IC34-IA096-AB. It's on my 2003 Ford F250 4x4.
I pulled the opposite cover and tried it on the side I'm having trouble with and noticed the same thing. Upon further inspection, I noticed that the chrome plated trim piece that covers the steel rim has tabs that should be flat to the rim. I'm referring to the area where the trim piece ends, near the lug nuts. On the one that I'm not having trouble with, it's flush/flat all around. But on the one I'm having trouble with, some of the ends are not flush to the rim. That is why the hubcap is not seating in those areas. I can see the gap and I can also push down on that section. It's almost as if that trim piece is separating from the rim? I tried using a punch and giving it a couple of whacks with a hammer, but it doesn't press it back to being flush with the rim.
Why would the end of that trim piece that covers the whole wheel lift up on the ends? Is there a way to get it to sit flat?
View 14 Replies
2000 Ford Excursion, 7.3 PS with 210,000 miles. I am on I40 at a truckstop. I was rolling down the freeway last night when the truck started bucking. I pulled of the freeway and here came a thunderstorm. I waited til this morning to check for codes cheap scanner. I pulled a code P1211. I waited for NAPA to open so I could take it in the shorts. I bought a fuel filter and an ICP sensor. After changing them out, the truck runs then starts missing. My battery is about to die so I will finish post shortly.
View 14 Replies
So on my 2003 F250 SCLB 4x4, I I was driving 70 or 80 miles to Huron in Ohio, to pick up a boat for a buddy with my truck. On the way up I heard a new clattering noise coming from the suspension or drive train, and we couldn't figure out what it was. After picking up the boat and coming back home without a problem, I looked under the truck and couldn't see any U-joints loose, But I saw that my right rear backing plate was disintegrated and gone. I took the truck to the shop and they said that the noise I'm hearing is the guts of the emergency brake pads and pins bouncing around in there when I drive and that my rear wheel could lock up at any time.
View 14 Replies
So a few weeks ago my car stalled when I was backing out of a parking spot. It then continued to stall when I was trying to drive through the parking lot. I chalked it up to being low on gas. When I got on the highway it stopped doing it. Then I filled up with gas and it continued to stall while going from a stop position. There is gas and when I go to shift from Reverse to Drive it stalls out when I push the gas. It is almost as if the fuel is not coming through but if I punch it then it does not stall. I've had a number of car issues in the past and I've never experienced anything like this before.
This is an automatic 2003 BMW 330xi.
View 1 Replies
