So, instead of pushing the throttle cable back and then off, I tried to pop it off and broke the little tab. I've been trying to look for a replacement, but all I'm coming up with is an entire throttle body. Not too bad, but would still like to fix it for much cheaper. It's a 2002 F150 with a 5.4L.
View 2 RepliesI busted the cable end by not removing it properly. My question is what is the proper method of remove the cable from the throttle body? Are the cable ends replaceable? If so who has them as a google search didn't find any? I've tried to find written information but haven't any luck. bl2009
View 1 RepliesI accidentally broke the control lever where the cruize control attaches. I've looked all over but I can't find the lever. Where I could buy just the lever? New throttle body is more than I want to spend.
View 1 RepliesI need to clean my throttle body on my '97 F-150 and it has a label saying not to clean directly. Is it still safe to use TB cleaner and to go ahead and clean it? It needs done but how would I go about it.
View 6 RepliesThe Throttle Body on my 2001, 4.6 L is making a strange whirring noise, when you puy your hand on the intake pipe, you can feel a slight vibration. The Truck idles and runs okay, with no codes. Giving it a little gas and the noise goes away. The last thing I did was clean the IAC with Gum Out Carb cleaner, the second or third time I've done this over many years, with no problems. I'm a little perplexed at the cause.
View 6 RepliesI'm usually over in the EX forum but today was working on my brothers 1998 F150 - V8 4.6L. Had the EGR code P0401 and due to FTE I found the problem took the throttle body off and found it was definitely plugged. One of the bolts was really loose and came off way to easily. Didn't realize until cleaning why... Now I drilled 8 studs out of my aluminum EX heads but this one has me pondering how I'm going to clamp this thing down and center a bit..
1st pic - ports WOW - guessing this was the problem ...
2nd pic - bigger issue ...
3rd pic - the ports cleaned up ...
I have a throttle body noise that sounds like a warble,It is sporadic and I think it should not be their. But I have heard some other f-150s make the same noise. Is it normal or is something not right.
View 3 RepliesHigh mileage 1999 4.6 4wd 5 spd: Needed to replace the rear ABS sensor and decided to clean the throttle body too while the battery was unplugged. Cleaned it around the butterfly and not much else. Truck idled at 750 BEFORE cleaning the TB. Now it fluctuates between 820 and 950 rpms. Also tends to stay at a higher rpm after pushing in the clutch and taking it out of gear.
Did a thorough check for vacuum leaks, nothing. After research, I cleaned the IAC and re installed (battery was disconnected then too). No improvement. Unplugged the IAC while running- ZERO change in idle. Installed new IAC, no change whatsoever. Unplugged NEW IAC, no change whatsoever. Is there an issue with the PCM needing time to fully re learn? Am I missing something.
Obviously its not a good thing, but this seems a little severe for a truck that hasnt had any issues prior. The truck is a 1998 F150 4.6 and was running just fine until POP!! A puff of grey smoke coming from the throttle body and followed by (obviously) a rough idle. So basically, I know that any metal fragments were directly sucked into the intake and based on the size of the chipped area (roughly 1.5cm). I am wondering what type of internal damage this would (or already has) caused.
View 3 RepliesWhen I had my heads replaced, the mechanic informed me that my cruise control cable was broken. News to me. It worked fine before. He said he couldn't find a replacement. I went to my local Ford parts dept. and they told me it was a discontinued item.
So I went online and ordered one from Direct Ford Parts and it did not match. The part number was FMC-F49Z9A825JA. In the parts catalog it says it fits 92-97. Not even close. The one I have has a screw off top and the one sent has a bolt on housing.
1997 Ford Aerostar 4.0 ... I really need my cruise control ...
My 1997 ford explorer has this problem that when you start the engine it runs fine then it's makes a choking sound in the throttle body area I have a video of it on YouTube here's the link :
1997 Ford Explorer Engine Trouble !!! - YouTube....
And the truck doesn't give any ob11 codes.....
My 97 Suburban died and will not start. Things I have done:
1 Changed fuel filter
2 Changed fuel pump twice
3 Checked fuel pressure 60psi
4 Changed plugs and wires
5 Changed rotor and cap
6 jumped switch to make sure pump runs
The Suburban will start only if I pour gas in the throttle body and will idle as long as I continue to pour gas in but will die when I quit.
2003 ford edge 3.0 V6 ... I was driving down interstate today going 70, set my cruise control & the button broke. My accelerator was stuck, when I would hit the brakes it would literally shake the whole truck. What happened & why?
View 3 Replies97 Sierra K1500, 5.7 liter. High pitched whistling sound underhood in the vicinity of the throttle body. Starts after truck warms up and quiets down when accelerating. I've wiggled hoses, disconnected what I could without stalling engine, checked air lines into throttle body, checked air filter, etc. Sound does not change when I apply brakes so I don't think it's related to master cylinder. The only time it changes is when I accelerate, then only gets quiet until I come back to steady speed.
Truck has 85,000, runs great. No codes.
So i recently bought a used 2003 camry le 4cyl with 72k miles on it. So it's still in good condition. Previously I had a 92 camry 4cyl which is run with throttle cable. The new generation camry's now are drive by wire or driven electronically. So I decided to check out the whole car and looked into the throttle body, the out side of the butterfly plate, and notice some thick black substance. It seems like grease or oil. I don't know if its there to lubricate the motor to run the plate or just oil.
View 8 RepliesI own a 2000 F250 7.3 Powerstroke 4x4. The only aftermarket engine modification I have is a Tymar intake. The problem I'm having started about 6 months ago in a very erratic fashion. I would pull up to a traffic signal and as the light changed to green, without warning the truck would have no throttle response. The engine was running fine; there was just no response as I stepped on the accelerator pedal. Usually when I put the transmission in neutral, revved the engine a few times, the throttle would come back on line. This happened 4 or 5 times over the summer and then went away completely until today. Today it came back with a vengeance. At one point I had to shut the engine down completely to restore throttle response. It's a bit unnerving when it happens in the middle of a busy intersection. I was told that it may be the throttle position sensor. Does this sound correct and does it need to be replaced?
View 14 Replies98 F150 4.6L 4WD...
Attempted to replace fuel filter tonight. The connector on the fuel tank side of the filter came off just like it is supposed to. The engine side, however, will not come lose at all. I can wiggle to back and forth, but I can't seem to get the tool to compress the springs.
The engine side connector seems to be smaller than the tank side. I've done this once before on a '98 Ranger, but didn't notice a difference in connectors.
In removing the COPs on my 2004 F150 Lariat 5.4L for a spark plug change, I noticed that the locking tab on one of the electrical connectors that plugs into the COP is broken. The previous owner had a zip tie on it to keep it on. Can I purchase a new connector and splice it on so that I don't have to use a zip tie? If so, what is the part number?
View 11 RepliesI had to swap in a new battery the other day, and I noticed that the positive terminal connector is broken. I don't really want to pay >$100 for a new cable right now, so any success story about splicing in just a new terminal ring or using one of the generic battery cables?
View 4 RepliesOver the past year or so I have noticed that when I press the clutch on my 1985 CJ-7 258 that the headlights would get brighter. This happens when driving or just sitting at an idle. This happens only after you press the clutch enough to take up the usual 1/2-1 inch of play in the clutch pedal. When you release the pedal, the lights dim slightly. Another thing that may be related---over the past few months, it has been a bit sluggish to start until, finally, it wouldn't start at all. I looked at the battery and the cable connector on the negative battery pole is partially melted and ran down onto the top of the battery. What the problem might be? I'd hate to get a new battery and just have the same thing happen again.
View 15 RepliesMy wifes 01 Supercrew had the tailgate cable pop off the other day- it came unscrewed from the tailgate. I went to screw it back in, but there is nothing to screw it into. Whatever was there to accept the bolt is gone. There seems to be an access panel on the tailgate (appx. 48 x 8) that I cant seem to get off- it like its being held in place from inside but I cant see how. I slightly bent up the panel trying to remove it, then lightly tapped it back in place- now I have a ding on the outside finish. So, what was in there to hold the bolt, can I just use a regular nut with a washer if I can get my fingers in there, and whats with the access door ?
View 2 Replies