I have an 2003 f150 4x4, 5.4 king ranch.The brakes dont work very well, they dont go to the floor, but just dont do a whole lot when you step on them. 3 different mechanics have tried to fix it without luck. the last one said it need a anti lock part that costs 1200.oo for the part, i just took it home.
148,000 miles on it and i have put brakes on it and had the rotors turned.
1998 F150 XLT 4x4 4.6L Auto.
Bought this truck two months ago, the lot had the engine rebuilt due to bad bearings, so fresh motor. They forgot to recharge the AC, so I had them charge it when I purchased it. It blew icy cold every things until a few weeks ago. It wouldn't work, then randomly it would, then it would quit, etc. Today it's 97 and I had it on with my kids in the truck, hot air.
I tried turning it off and on, still hot.
I tried seeing if the temperature was stuck and moved it to hot, it got sweltering hot, back to cold, just warm air. There is no difference between vent and max AC.
I went to the store, picked up a refrigerant filler with gauge and a can of R-134. I hooked it to the low end of the system and was surprised that my pressure was about 60PSI. Great, they over filled it at the dealership. I released the pressure down to 40psi and checked, sill hot. I figured maybe something was weird and they might have mixed good refrigerant with bad and that's why it was intermittent.
I released all the pressure down to 0 PSI. I then put on the can of R-134 and filled it to spec. Sill hot air. I removed the harness from the pressure switch and jumped it, getting sparks when I connect the wire, so it's connecting, but still hot air, probably not the switch.
What's going on here? Could they have over filled it and killed the system or something? What is likely broken here? My heater works like a champ, my AC just blows environment temperature air.
Trailer light dont work right. If the running lights are on the brakes dont work. If the running lights are off the brake lights work fine. I cant drive at night this is a huge issue for an up and coming transporter. Its not the trailer lights ive eliminated that with my plug checker. Is it the rely? Blown fuse? Or common ford electrical mess up?
View 2 RepliesBought a 2002 F150. NO door button pad, and the guy lost the FOB. I bought a new FOB, but i cant get the truck to go into program mode. Suppose to turn the key on- off, 8 times and horn beeps... I never get the beep. There is a 5 digit code on the card in the glove box, so i assume it came with remote entry. How to check ? There is also a small black box about 1 inch cube attached to windhield infront of thr mirror. Has a blue LED light on it and small wireharness into roof console area. My 2001 did not have this. Is it factory for compass or part of aftermarket remote start or alarm system ? Would something like that disable my ability to program the FOB ?
View 7 RepliesAfter getting the oil changed in my 1997 Ford F-150 4.6L with 150K miles at a local quick lube, I made one stop and my truck wouldn't start. I could hear the starter engage the flywheel, but couldn't turn it over at all. Oil was clean and full. I bench tested the starter and it tests good. I put a breaker bar on the crankcase nut and I could barely move it. Oil level was about 2 quarts low before oil change.
View 10 RepliesI have a 97 F250 that is having reoccurring brake issues, It has an intermittent hard pedal with little to no brakes when it occurs. It will stop but you are standing on the pedal with both feet. I have replaced the booster, master cylinder, and the vacuum pump in the past trying to isolate the issue and still had the problem. On this year model the abs ids only on the rear correct???? if it is shouldn't it only be affecting the rear brakes? Since this truck has a dual reservoir MC the front should still work?
View 4 RepliesQuestion. I have never used propane to find vacuum leaks. I always use starter fluid. I understand propane is better but how nuch do you use? Low volume, or a lot of propane. I just don't want to kill myself.
View 14 RepliesI have an 01 supercab. 5.4 Triton 135k. I have begun to smell coolant the last couple of days. Have seen nothing leaking and truck doesn't run hot.
Will investigate more this weekend. Where to start looking for this. It has to be leaking somewhere. Windows don't fog and the smell is there all the time. I live in florida so don't use much heat.
Not the heater core. Heat works fine and no smell from the vents.
Pulled inside fuses one at a time and it seems to be #15 I hear a clicking sound coming from drivers door and have the fuse pulled for the battery saver relay when hearing it . My test light is dim then pulses when I close the driver's door?
View 6 RepliesSeveral months ago, my truck begins having starting issues. Intermittently, the truck will not start, even though it cranks fine. I have done the following:
- checked inertia fuel switch. Okay.
- checked connections under hood for corrosion. Okay.
- checked fuses & start relay. Also swapped relays with no luck fixing the problem.
- sprayed water at various locations under the hood and bed, since the problem occurs more often when raining. No luck stressing the problem.
- changed fuel filter a couple weeks ago. No luck fixing the problem.
- changed battery over the winter (due to my 8 year old battery was becoming weak). No luck fixing the intermittent starting problem.
- changed the starter a month ago (since the truck stopped cranking). No luck fixing the intermittent starting problem.
- Installed a fuel pressure gauge on the fuel rail.
- Tried banging on the fuel tank with a rubber mallet. No luck fixing the intermittent starting issue.
When the truck refuses to start, the fuel pressure reads 0. Sometimes I can wait 5-10 minutes, and it will start. The truck runs fine after starting.
Sometimes waiting 5-10 minutes will not solve the problem (fuel pressure remains 0). Then, I hook my battery charger to the battery, and the voltage climbs from ~12.5V to 14.7V. The fuel pressure climbs to 30, and the truck starts.
I'm apprehensive to change the fuel pump, since it seems like more an electrical problem than a pump problem. Any diagnostic test that will tell the true problem source?
200 F150 5.4L Triton, 164K rounds. My odometer has been going on and off intermittently since I bought the truck 4 months ago, no big deal. This morning, though, I started the truck to go to work and my oil pressure gauge was at zero. There wasn't any noise coming from the motor aside from the very slight bottom end knock it had when I bought it, so I figured it's the sending unit. I shut the truck off and started it back up a few times to be sure, and the oil pressure sending unit started working. But THEN my 4X4 engaged. The dial on the dash was in the 2WD position, but the 4X4 was definitely engaged. It wouldn't engage when I first bought the truck without swapping the vacuum hoses under the hood, and now it's doing it on its' own.
View 1 RepliesOwn a 1997 F-150, 4.6 L, 4 x 4. I know it's old but it's in very good body shape, has been undercoated for years. I've only had it for a year. This summer it began to not start (intermittently). The dash lights all come on but the starter will not engage. Brought to my local garage, he changed the starter and the ground cable from the battery.
Was ok for a few months and now it's beginning to do the same thing. Brought it back to him, can't find anything. He did say that the battery is a bit weak, the terminals are spotless (I keep them spotless, coat them with white grease). I measured the voltage with the engine stopped and with it running. Stopped, the voltage is 11.94, running it is 14.87. This clearly shows that the battery is weak.
My question is would this cause the starter to not engage after 4 or 5 turns of the key and then on the 6th try, the starter turns over? I don't want to spend more money ($ 450) the last time and have the same result. If it's possible it's the battery, I'll replace it no problem.
I have a 2003 Ford F150 XLT 5.4 V8 with about 131,000 on it. The 4wd does not work at all. You move the electronic switch no light in the dash no click at the actuator motor no nothing. I took the switch on the dash off and from the dark blue wire I am getting 11.5 volts from there constant.
View 6 RepliesThe brake pedal intermittently goes to the floor on my nephew's 2003 F150 without grabbing at all. Pumping the brakes restores them, then they act normally for a while. I've replaced the master cylinder with a new Motorcraft unit, no change. No ABS codes. All rubber lines are in good shape. I'm stumped, although I suspect the ABS system somehow. I'm going to have him pull the ABS fuse and see if the problem goes away.
View 6 RepliesMy dads f150 shuts off intermittently while driving it. He has to pull over and wait about 5 minutes until it restarts again. We have tried replacing the fuel filter, still shuts off! Some one pointed out the coil!? I am thinking that it might be the switch. It might be bad, shorting out and shutting down the truck?
View 6 RepliesMy 03 with a 5.4 has been hesitating a when you accelerate and cutting out as well as idling rough and die when you slow down. It does all this intermittently. Not every stop or every time you accelerate. I first got a code for the MAF and both banks running rich (PO102, PO172, PO175) so I cleaned the throttle body and MAF. The running rich code came back (PO172, PO175) so I then changed the MAF and air filter . It seemed to work for a day or so then my light came on and I figured the same code was back but to my surprise it was now both banks running lean(PO171, PO174) so I took my MAF back and got another one. It hasn't set a code yet but it is still running poorly. I have changed all the COP's and plugs as well ....
View 13 RepliesSo on a cold start I keep hearing this ticking noise. Not every time, but more often than not.
I have two thoughts:
1) Low oil pressure causing timing chain tensioners to allow slack in the timing chain. Oil pressure builds up after about 1 minute of driving.
2) Oil Restricter in the valve cover starving one side of the valve cover?
I have a 2001 F150 XL, 2WD, 4.2L, Auto at work. It will intermittently crank but not start, also, my scan tool will sometimes not connect to the truck. The only code I ever get is 1 about not being able to connect to self diagnostics. I have narrowed it down to the PCM relay in the underhood power distribution module not turning on because it SOMETIMES only sees a 2 volt turn on signal instead of 12 volts. I have replaced the ignition switch on the steering column- initially I thought that took care of it.
But as I was about to put the meter away it did it again. If I remove and reinstall the diode that is in the PDM, sometimes more than once, I can get it to turn on. Are these diodes available from any one besides Ford? The wiring diagram in my Haynes manual is very generic and does not show the circuit from the ignition switch to the fuse box. Where can I find a GOOD and complete wiring diagram for free on the net so I can print it out and take it with me to work?
My '99 F150 has an issue. The green digital display had one portion of a station number and one indicator section on the volume display that will intermittently cut out and reappear for no apparent reason. What is happening?
View 1 RepliesI have a 2001 ford f150 4.2 five speed with a little over 250,000 miles. The wipers will not do anything. I have gotten a new motor and plugged it in before I installed it and checked it and still nothing. I have changed the switch on the column and they still did not work. I have tried checking with a multimeter and a probe light. I do not know what is wrong with them or where else to go. What to do or what to check next?
View 2 RepliesMy 2000 f150's 4x4 won't work, it has esotf, I have replaced everything I can think of, when I turn it to 4hi and 4 low i get nothing, no clicks no dash lights. I have replaced the gem, the switch, the relays, checked the fuses, i bench tested the motor it works, if i put 12v to the shift motor while on the t/c it engages to 4x4 (though I haven't driven it like that because I am not sure if its in 4hi 4 lo or in between the two) so that being said...
View 3 Replies